Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 79 of total 79 in this topic |
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Time to give this girl a whirl.
I need a partner(s) or willing belayer.
Will follow or belay you on anything else you want to climb and/or swing leads while we're there, so if the wide's not your thing maybe we can still work something out...like do Sundance or Valhalla or something to get to the base.
You don't have to be able to, or even try to, follow Paisano, I can clean on aid or rap if necessary.
Any takers?
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apogee
climber
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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OK, now that you've gone public with your plans, a full photo-TR is required.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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seriously need a photog on that trip
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Get it done!!! Fire in the hole.....
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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All right Will!
I'm in.
Check your e-mail.
I even have the welding gloves! ;)
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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Bump cuz I was just kidding about the gloves, even though I DO have them.
wassup wassup wassup, Redlands Lockdown Guy.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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Are you sure you what to give it a go ? If so I wish you well. just a foot note. It took me seven attempts to lead it. In top condition. good luck!
Bruce.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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Here a shot Tobin on the route. oh and there is more. If you can lead this. you are a wide boy at the top of the scale.
Dog.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 19, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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OMG, somebody save that poor man! He's being eaten alive by the evil Suicide gaping maw!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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It is what it is. Photo of Tobin from Largo. 12.C ? The Owl Roof is 12D. and Lucille at Vedauwoo 13a.? Jaybro has done them all ask him how hard it is ?
Dog.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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Good luck on this project, Will.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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"Are you sure you what to give it a go ?"
Pretty sure Bruce. Seven tries you say? That's barely even a project. Congrats on your ascent, got any pics or stories for us?
Thanks Greg, going to need it in spades.
Yes, a having a photog along would be nice, but then you might end up with a super-poser, tuning the cello shot ala the infamous Falkenstein Owl Roof shot or this one
Some Dude Posing:
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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Sounds great, Will.
This really seems to be your cup of tea.
Best wishes.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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better post photos, Will!!!
Good luck baggin it
BTW - Where is this climb you plan on doing?
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:13am PT
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OK, that was really funny, Apogee!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Thirty six years ago. Couldn't fall because the steel bong banged in at the lip was A3 (the entire Pinnacle is super expanding). Remember to go feet first at the beginning and then flip your feet around after it no long goes down hill. Those are some hard fought moves, especially at the lip. I'm working an arm bar here in the pic - barely. Suerte.
JL
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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Don't get stuck around the lip.... I hear that is some sort of pisser!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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Awesome! Man, I could never get those roof offwidths (the Owl Roof is th another one that comes to mind).
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Largo, if I were nailing that and the whole formation was expanding I'd probably load my drawers.
Looks like you were more or less straight-on mostly fist jamming out to the lip, Yaniro and Leavitt were leading with their right side on bat hang & stacks, Jaybro was leading with left side. So it sounds like there are options.
Russ has a pretty good Paisano story. Hard to believe no pics came out of that event.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 20, 2009 - 03:09am PT
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Aug 20, 2009 - 03:14am PT
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Viva Largo!! Yep Russell I remember someone gettin' a shoe stuck in that mutha...
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 20, 2009 - 03:38am PT
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Randy, post some pics!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 20, 2009 - 10:05am PT
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OK, I'm ready! Psyched to send the Fingertip Traverse. Anyone up for belaying me? If so, I'll jump on the first available flight.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Aug 21, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Word on the street is that shanti will gun that thing down for ya will! haha
cheers,
patrick
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 21, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
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Donini, why not just get the (second? third?) ascent of Fingertrip? Its the diretessima and a local test piece.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Aug 21, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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Largo- How many times did you lead that thing anyway?
Your pic shows you in jeans, but I'm sure I've seen a pic of you no shirt wearing shorts...
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 21, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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Sounds to me like Will not only needs a partner but a photo guy/camera man too.
Hell, I might even hike up there for that.
Susan
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 21, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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GDavis- don't scare me. I guess I meant Fingertip not trip, you know, the 5.1 route.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 21, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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Hey Will, Let us know how it goes. Oh yeah!!
Zander
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 21, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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Word on the street is.........
tube chocks have been acquired.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 21, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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Sooze - That's why I was asking where this climb is?
I might be talked into being said photo guy!!!!
Can someone call me a name and then say the whereabouts of this climb?
What's the approach?
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 22, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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Mussy,
You be nice to Jingy. He's my friend.
Suicide which is located across from Tahquitz (south of the Inland Empire or Redlands,CA) and provides a long history or North American climbing history.
Th Suicide approach is easier than it's neighbor Tahquitz and provides many classic lines for the "photo guy" who has hiked up there.
Located an hour and half from Casa de Pescado which is conveniently located for day trips or if preferred, provides many nice bivy areas close to te "action".
Talk to Will, depending on his accent date, south may be a better solution for you vs. the valley during your upcoming vacation. You are welcome to bivy with us if you'd like.
xo,
Sooze
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 22, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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ITS ON!!!!
Sunday is the day, I am bringing my aiders!
;)
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apogee
climber
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Aug 22, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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Russ, that's brilliant.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 22, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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Largo- How many times did you lead that thing anyway?
Can't recall. This was like four hundred years ago, when I was in middle age.
One time I underclung the whole thing from the right side, but that's totally horrendous unless you're in top bouldering shape, then it's the way to go - no thrashing. Short, but spectacular location. Eases immediately over the lip, by the way.
JL
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 22, 2009 - 02:06am PT
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Here's a couple of shot’s that Jaybro sent me.
Largo’s tip is key go feet first flip around and stack replant your feet and repeat. The only story I have is at the time when I led it I used two huge yellow Tri-Cams for pro. They were at that time the only thing I could find big enough, and let me tell you they rattled around in that fat ass roof crack so bad it was a bit unnerving. As I cleared the lip the rope cleaned the last one I set. Funny I was out at Vedauwoo with Jaybro and Ed today and we were having a good laugh talking about this problem and how it seems everyone’s done it a bit different. Good luck and have someone you trust on the rope.
Bruce
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Aug 22, 2009 - 03:44am PT
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" I underclung the whole thing from the right side . . . it's the way to go - no thrashing "
the end .
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 02:04am PT
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Sick, but expected!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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provides many nice bivy areas close to te "action".
Sue, that shizz is top secret stop.
Dogtown.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:10am PT
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OK, I am outta here to go help Will on his project - got my camera!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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yeah... I'm only partly retarded at the moment...
So I have an idea of the location...
When will this shizzle gonna be happening!!?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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It should be all over 'cept for the cryin' by now..... pics by sundown?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Will's pics will be like my pics;.....out of the gate like a racehorse;......hanging like a bat at the lip.....lower to the ledge and go home like a dog with his tail between his legs......it's predictable, and a sad yet realistic situation of biting off more than one can chew......(Prove me wrong, Will......make me eat my words.....afterall;...it's only 15 feet of climbing;...how hard can 15' be?...)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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Took 3 legit burns. Hand(s) on the lip on attemps 2 & 3. More bouldery trickery and beta intensive than I anticipated, and tighter than I expected, there is a neckdown halfway out the thing where your feet have to come around it.
Still, managed to get through the body pivot and hands in front of feet. Fired out to the lip, one hand on the side lip, one on the front, tried placing a cam from there....4.5 camalot is too tight, needed another #4 which I didn't have. Stayed in that position trying to find a place to get the overcammed 4.5 in, then fumbled the clip 4 times before clipping. Too gassed to continue after all the fumbling from a situp position, ejected and almost puked. Pretty good view while fumbling that clip though. Good times.
I'm encouraged. Always knew it would be a multiple session project, and made pretty good progress today I think...to the lip on the second go. It is much shorter and goes down less than I thought, but the position under that very last section...it does not disappoint, with the slab dropping steeply away, looking upside down for about 300' to the base of the Sunshine face feeling like you're going to pitch out head first any second is pretty cool.
Hey Todd, after I send it, I'll belay you while you try. This is maybe my favorite style of climbing, so you won't see me leading the Beaver or Equinox anytime soon, but this thing seems doable with a little work.
MisterE, my companion in shenanigans today, took quite a few sports action pics. However, camera containing said pics may still be at the base of the Weeping Wall or even Paisano Ledge....not sure. And a big shout out to MisterE for joining onto this hairbrained scheme in the first place. It was way easier to climb out there over the void knowing my bro E was on the other end of the rope.
I'll be back soon. Soon as my left hip works right again, left foot doesn't feel like it's been in a vice, and I get another old #4 Camalot....so maybe next week.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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KICK AAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!11166
Way to get after it!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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I am bummed about losing my camera - I got some great shots of Will doing double bat-hangs out this rig, as well as gettin' all jiggy with some wild swing moves to an edge jug on the left side...
damn - Guess I'll do a lost camera post and hope for the best.
It was my first trip to Suicide, so it was cool just to check it, help a brother out and, frankly, watch some pretty cool climbing from a spectacular position.
Thanks for the great day and adventure, Will!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
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It's been told, Can't say....
How convenient though..... the olde "lost the camera" routine..... so tell me.... how good was the happy hour at that strip bar in Indio?
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 23, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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You WOULD know there's a stripper bar in Indio Russ ;)
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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Ha, Nice work it's not something that falls easily. Big cash for giving it a go! you'll nail it.
Bruce.
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apogee
climber
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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Good on ya' for the effort- this puts you in a very small club. It'll be waiting for your next inspiration, and we'll be psyched to see the pix.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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You WOULD know there's a stripper bar in Indio Russ ;)
I heard it from Jimmy Swaggarts lips..... and he knows his skank!
from Wiki:
On October 11, 1991, Swaggart was found, for the second time, in the company of a prostitute, Rosemary Garcia,[11] when he was pulled over by the California Highway Patrol in Indio, California, for driving on the wrong side of the road. According to Garcia, Swaggart stopped to proposition her on the side of the road. When the patrolman asked Garcia why she was with Swaggart, she replied, "He asked me for sex. I mean, that's why he stopped me. That's what I do. I'm a prostitute."[12][13] Rather than confessing to his congregation, Swaggart told those at Family Worship Center that "The Lord told me it's flat none of your business."[14][15][16] His son Donnie then announced to the stunned audience that his father would be temporarily stepping down as head of Jimmy Swaggart Ministries for "a time of healing and counseling."
CantSay edit: The food is always better than the strippers.... like the LampLighter in ElPaso... FREE lunch! Same with the CockPit and the WhiteSwallow.... all offer a free lunch buffet before 4pm. The day shift pole jockeys are without doubt, not exactly the cream floating to the top. Never went to the ManHole.... something about free Kielbasa_Thursdays™™™ sounds so unsavory, free or otherwise.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 24, 2009 - 01:57am PT
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Bravo, Will;....talk is cheap;...but you put the rubber to the road;.....bang it out, throw it down, get spanked a few more times and maybe it will be yours.....Good effort;...and now you know.....I first did the climb on aid, and said....'How hard can 15' of climbing be?"....I had to find out for myself.....I got spanked bad;...but I just had to know for myself.....Once again;...good on ya......
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 24, 2009 - 04:02am PT
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Yeheeyyy William! And thanks to Erik for watching out for him.
Better pics next time?!!??
Sooze
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 24, 2009 - 04:21am PT
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the true spirit of adventure!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Aug 24, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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Go Will!!
Nice to see you going at it. Big time.
You know I'm always good for a belay slave on any of your adventures. Just call.
Cheers bro.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 24, 2009 - 11:09am PT
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Very cool stuff! Looking forward to the next attempt and hopefully completion. Hopefully there will be some photos...
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Aug 24, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Cool Will!!
You'll get that thing!!!!
cheers,
patrick
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 24, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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Cool sh#t, Will, breathe deep and find your inner calm, it's way easier than 'Spin to win".
I first met Todd Gordon @ Paisano, bet he doesn't remember, though....
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks for the encouragement ya'll.
A smart fella would rack that last piece...the one you're desperate to get in from a strenuous position and then clip...well, he'd have that thing already clipped into the rope while racked on the harness. That way he could just unclip it from his harness and fire it in, no fumbling with clipping the rope and no danger of dropping that cam 300' onto somebody's head on Sundance.
Might have to get you on the horn Jaybro.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 25, 2009 - 02:31am PT
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Hey, easy on Indio. I was born there (no shit) - when there was like three cribs, a gas station, two burros, seventeen Mexicans, and me.
Crazy thing is, two of the Mexicans climbed Paisano.
JL
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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Hey Will; Man you can do this thing!!! You have better Pro! Hell, Largo Underclinged the shitzz. Holy hell! I think not. (For me.) But I bet he did. You know what to do. Do it!! Your way. Do it! Just pump the f*#king thing out.Then down climb Paisano Jam Crack.
All the best.
Dogtown.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2009 - 03:32am PT
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Hey, Gaines
Pipe up, I know your lurking. Give the boy a bit.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Once a upon a time Mr Scarpelli led Paisano. He has refered to it... Later I heard that he did it on his 40th birthday, the other night it was on the tip of my tongue to ask him about that while we were all granfalooning around the campfire. Somehow the conversation took a different turn and I never got to ask him... I was 33 when I led it.
Happy Lucille day,
go send, Will!
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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thanks matty....some serious inspiration there. Great video.
Well, it was great right up until they had the closeup of Guerin's rig in the short-shorts. Pardon me while I go dip my eyes in vinegar.
Oh yeah.....rock it out, Will!
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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Wow, that clip is seriously bad ass! (xtreme marble sack close-up aside)
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Hey Will.. next time..
you got this!
Thanks for the video. Gives me ideas on good camera angles
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 02:08am PT
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Gave her a go today. Near moment of terror with a stuck foot incident and visions of a well gaffed Fish in the same exact spot. Around the 3:30 mark, I'm trying to turn the lip and my f$^# foot is cemented in place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw3bmPfhy9w
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Nice!!!!!!
I also liked how, if you play the audio backwards, you hear Sgt. Pepper's.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 28, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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nice mang. solid effort.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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KICK ASS!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 28, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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Brilliant!!
Was there much chalk in the crack?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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"Was there much chalk in the crack?"
Ha ha, you funny K-man. No chalk, no tick marks. I can't imagine it gets tried too often, which is a shame because the position is ridiculous.
After we finished trying the overhang, lowered down to the base of the 10b flake pitch directly below, it's the last pitch of Ishi maybe? Anyway, really cool pitch and worth running a lap on while you're there.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 28, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Awesome that you're going for that climb. It's always been in the back of my mind as a "someday." When I saw your post, it inspired me to start training the wide a little more. Luckily I can get a little practice at Woodson, and R. Long's Crack is an inversion offwidth so I've been improving at that. What other inversion offwidths are there to try/train on in So Cal? I've heard Boulder 13 at Woodson is, but the trail was overgrown last time I checked. I'll work some of the other offwidths first before trying to find/make a trail over there.
Josh
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Thanks Mike, will likely take you up when I'm ready for round 3. Getting to be prime weather up there real soon. And would be nice to have some manpower in case the stuck foot thing happens.
Josh... "What other inversion offwidths are there to try/train on in So Cal?"
Gotta be a bunch at Woodson, but Boulder 13 for sure. Way overgrown last winter getting to it (the non-trespass way) horrible schwacking around but great problem, probably about mid 5.11/V3.
Josh:
Inquisition V6,
Maneater .10d
Fly Away .10d
Leavittation .12b
KD Live V6 (under the boulder at the base of Figures on a landscape), Comfortably Numb .11 can go with an invert, Emotional Rescue .12a has some kinda leavittation move at the end where it goes wide.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Russ, you got too much information on those places and the high-noon pole jockeys. Shudder
ECIYA, nice effort!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 28, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Nice Job Will!!!
Way to go!
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