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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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Today marks two years since I broke my neck. Yesterday I climbed the Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire again - did it a little over two years ago (trip report).
The day dawned chilly and I set out from the trailhead around 6:30am, hoping the rock would be warm by the time I got there.
Someone in the parking lot had lost her sleeping bag near Gem Lake, and she asked me if I'd look for it when I got up there. No dice, sorry :( She was heading up to Temple Crag the next day, hopefully Wilson's had one she could rent ..
I think I've almost got the talus wired from Gem up to Dade Lake .. serious droolage ..
Ah, more talus to actually approach the peak. I noted the North Arete with some jealousy. I think I saw the climber at the base near the summit on my descent.
The snow in the morning was hard and suncupped .. actually better than the adjoining talus & scree.
At the start of the route I stopped to catch my breath. I was feeling pretty weak. The Spire Lakes looked inviting -
I headed up the first section of blocky third class, which was tiring.
Finally near the first tower some fourth class !
I was having to stop and catch my breath for minutes at a time. Two years ago it was not like this -- I jammed my way up the 5.5 cracks in this stuff in hiking boots -
But this time I went around to the left and found some more modest fourth. It was still fun and thrilling though.
Finally I was getting close to where the NE Ridge and N Arete join up -
Time for a snack .. I think this was around 13500'-ish.
The climbing was getting seriously fun. Fourth and maybe a few moves of easy fifth in places. Finally the ridge traverse -
The fourth class ramp -
In 2007 I went up some kinda 5.6 face stuff, but I wasn't really feeling up for that this time -- opted to thrash up the fourth class chimney instead.
Finally, the summit block !
If a climber mantels the summit and no one is around to take his picture, did he really do it ? No matter .. suffice it to say it was just as fun as last time :) The notebook I placed in the register in 2007 was still there .. lots of interesting entries. Mike Dahlquist's note about the east ridge was very enthusiastic, and I can see why -
Looks like the Feather Couloir is in good shape, though not ice yet -
Finally, the descent .. back down the chimney (a little easier than going up :) lots of loose third, then the sand and talus.
I headed down Cox Col proper (I think) this time .. pretty loose. The snow was heavily suncupped and there were steps, so it made for a nice descent actually vs. the nasty talus further north.
I refilled my hydration reservoir with some snowmelt about halfway to Dade Lake, then gingerly headed down the talus past Dade, the unnamed lakes, and finally Gem came into view .. sweet relief !
The trail hike back to the car went uneventfully. 11 hours round trip this time vs. 10 in 2007.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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Super TR, Rhyang!
Seriously good pics, too.
Gotta love it!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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excellent!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Thumbs (necks?) up!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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Nice dude! That was me and a buddy who you saw on the N. Arete, think we ran into you at the summit as well.
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Gorgeous pictures, thank you!!
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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great pics
what an awesome looking day
splitter blue sky and white rock
thanks for the tr
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MooseTracks
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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Brave, brave Sir Robin:
What a tremendous day. Dare I say it (all whimpering aside), that looks FUN! OK, OK, I'll wait...
-Princess Buttercup
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Aug 17, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
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Way to go, looked like a great day
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 17, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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Nice job, that looks like a full day!!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Aug 17, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Nice TR and Pictures. Also did this in 2007 and really enjoyed it (though I got pretty tired of the talus on the way down). Thanks for posting, made my morning at the office.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Shivasana
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Aug 17, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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Grazie!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Seems a bit intense!!!
Thanks for the post.. Great photos too!
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Aug 17, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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Excellent and inspiring!
Had great fun on the N Arete a few yrs go. High time to get back in there and do the NE Ridge.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
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Hoots - totally jealous of you guys :)
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Inspiring. Great job getting over the demons and getting back out onto the high lonesome. Especially solo. Well done.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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Nice, Rob!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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And people thing Temple Crag looks loose! Its gorgeous but I was struck by how many death blocks were in balance on that ridge.
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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Very nice climb and done with style. Awesome photos! Amazing all the blocks and fins on that ridge. Just the lakes view makes me want to plan a trip.
Thanks for sharing.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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Hey Rob - way to go! An inspirational life!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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Great stuff - thanks for sharing!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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Dig!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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Nice pics rhyang!
Looks like a cool route. You had a beautiful day for it.
Zander
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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Thanks for the shout-out. Definitely do the East Ridge, it's my favorite BCS route and I've done both the NE Ridge and the N Arete. Spectacular exposure, Matthes Crest-like at the top. I first saw the ridge as a striking sun-shadow line from Mt. Tom two years ago on Thanksgiving weekend, the late autumn sun low in the sky left the South Face ablaze in light and everything on the north side dark. It was then I knew I had to climb this line, and it did not disappoint when I finally got around to it last October. Definitely bring your soloing hat for this one, a rope won't do much good in some of the spots but the rock was awesome an the routefinding challenging in spots. I really don't understand why this route doesn't get more action...
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
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Bump fpr a great photo-tr. It inspired my friend and I to get out there for the North Arete car-to-car this past Tuesday, TR coming soon!
-Tad
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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bump!
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cak
Trad climber
Palo Alto, California USA
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Sep 20, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Thanks for a very helpful trip report. Anyone who happens to read this "soon" ... the summit register was still there with two notebooks this past weekend, but there was no pen to be found!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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Good job. Re: pen -- I'm pretty sure in 2007 I put a pencil in there. Was the register back near the summit block, or somewhere else ? We couldn't find it when we did the North Arete last month, but a party after us found it near one of the other rap stations -
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Nice TR Rhyang. I plan to go up there this weekend, if the weather is good.
Steve
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 18, 2018 - 07:38pm PT
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This deserves a bump.
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| Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
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