Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 60 of total 60 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
|
Back when my good friend John Steiger first became the assistant editor of Climbing, he went to see the Man about a Hangdog! This interview is pure Bachar and JS knew right where to work his arguments.Great stuff from Climbing October 1986.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
|
Great, Steve, thanks tons for this.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
|
Paging Bullwinkle... Bullwinkle to the courtesy phone.
(thanks for posting that up Steve... I'd forgotten about it)
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
|
Thanks for posting. I was smiling the whole read. That guy stuck to his guns through the sport phase, and came out the other end looking real wise.
Also, I had to laugh with the moritorium section. I wrote a song about Bachar after he died, and included a part about the moritorium. One of my lines had something about shaking like a leaf, because I knew he was scared on that climb. There he is quoted "I wasn't shaking like a leaf," awesome.
Anybody know if he ever soloed equinox? cuz that ryhmes with hot rocks.
|
|
Gunks Guy
Trad climber
Rhinebeck, NY
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
|
Awesome! I remember that article. Had a big impression on me back then. Thanks for posting.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
|
Whoa.....ah.....
Cool breeze blowin 'n sh#t.
That's the stuff kids!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2009 - 10:14am PT
|
Bachar Bump!
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 10:26am PT
|
I think he's saying that Werner Braun is a dancer.
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
|
great re-read
thanks for posting that
|
|
kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
|
What a great interview. Thanks for posting.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
|
1986 and Bachar was already saying Werner has been climbing a long time! Is he 108 years old yet?
THanks
Karl
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 01:16am PT
|
2 cool SG, I'd completely forgotten that article.
And it was written on the first PCs brought into Climbing via Steiger.
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 02:43am PT
|
Thank you again Steve for a great thread post. I missed this one, so it was very cool.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2009 - 10:39am PT
|
JS did a really fine job on this piece and JB is right in the thick of the stylistic wrestling match and sharp as a razor!
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:45am PT
|
Thanks for the post, Steve. I still have this issue, and the article is one that really stuck with me. If I recall correctly, the P. Bard shot out the roof was also on the cover of Reader's Digest in the '90s.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2009 - 10:58am PT
|
Reader's Digest---The home of extreme sports! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 12:51am PT
|
One thing leads to another...From Rachel Da Silva's excellent collection, Leading Out- Mountaineering Stories of Adventurous Women, this thoughtful essay by Susan Edwards that mentions the thread piece by JB.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
|
Dance Bump!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Dance of the Woo-li masters?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
|
I have been thinking about JB a lot lately as the snow melts this season.
Phil Bard wrote this excellent tribute for the Sept/Oct 1983 issue of Mountain.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Next week it will be one year since John died.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 11:50am PT
|
JB Memorial Bump!
|
|
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
|
|
1986 was a great year and JB was on fire!
i remember these articles and the inspiration it provided so many climbers..
he will be missed very much this July 5th...
kurt
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
|
I am still working through it all a year later just like everybody else that knew him.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
God bless for sure!! See you man!!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
:) Bump.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
|
I said I didn't mean to take up all your sweet time,
I'll give it right back one of these days.
And if I don't meet you no more in this world,
Then I'll meet you in the next one and don't be late, don't be late.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
RIGHT ON Steve! Here's to our man Johnny.
Peace
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
Jaybro, Dance of the Wu Li Masters is a book by Gary Zukav.
Its an overview / explanation of physics as they were current in 1980 or so as far as my book is concerned. It may have been updated since.
|
|
TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
|
|
Kurt,
Your mention of 1986 reminds me of the one day link up of the Nose and Half Dome. When I first heard about it 24 years ago, it blew me away and I think I smiled for a couple of days straight because of it. In fact, it makes me smile right now, too. Thanks for the reminder.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
|
Yup, that double-up blew my mind too! The separation being a factor as much as the pitch count.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Wow! Super shots of the link-up!!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Someone buy that guy on the right a new tee shirt!
|
|
TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
|
|
Right on Walleye,
Absolutely perfect. The link up would have to be those two. Got to be. Great ascent, right people, at the right time.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2010 - 08:56pm PT
|
Bee-Bop Bump!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2010 - 04:36am PT
|
Geez..I just remembered that I was there the day that JB did the FA on "Sole Fusion." Brenda, his wife took that shot. Mike Lechlinski was belaying him and I think followed it...But that day I couldn't. We used to say gee maybe if we had those Fire's he was sporting? The rest is history...
|
|
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2010 - 08:59am PT
|
Watusi, good story. i TRIED sole fusion once, could not get half way up the rig. JB was so far ahead of the "HEAD" game than everyone else.
I also remember that year (86) belaying him on (battle of the cosmic giants) project on medlicott, and being so intimidated at the belay as JB takes off on an overhang wall of black knobs with 2 hooks, couple pieces of pro and the hand drill... i think he got another bolt in and then we bailed. that route got rap bolted later and is now called Peace...
wild times..
ks
|
|
burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
|
The article in the thread came from the first Climbing mag I bought when I started climbing. Still have a cherished copy.
Had such an impact on impressionable new climber me, that as I look back ... the foundation for almost everything in my viewpoint of climbing was built from that article.
Everything climbing related went through this filter thereafter.
Enjoy!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
|
A great tribute to an unforgettable man.
AFS
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2010 - 03:23am PT
|
Yeah Kurt...But I think out of everyone you were closest to his way of thinking!:)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2010 - 10:19am PT
|
As JB used to say "man that Kid sure can run it out!"
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 12:43am PT
|
Bachar Bump!
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
bump for the bold
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
Bump!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Climbing Bump
|
|
d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
|
bump for JB 'cause he was
THE man.
keepin' it
on the one
funky brother.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
|
Johnny Bump!
|
|
mountainlion
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
|
Does anybody have information about his unrepeated routes? I love the that's incredible video and made it out to zombie woof in jtree a couple of times (closed for indian rock art now). Couldn't do it but a great swinging fall!
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
|
Closing in on 2 millionth post bump, for climbing content, Bachar, and our amazing resident historian, Steve Grossman.
|
|
nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
|
First time I read that interview. Really nice. I liked the directness of the interviewer, not leaving me questioning what questions he asked.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
|
When I did You Asked For It I tried to do the least amount of damage to the rock in order to get myself up it. It’s only 5.10c, but if you fall off of it at several different points, you’ll probably die.
To climb that route and do the least amount of damage I used all the skills I have learned, trained for, and thought about over many years. It can be viewed as an art, the art of admiring the mountain with the skillful use of bolts, of respecting the rock by using as few as possible.
When I was on You Asked For It I wasn’t thinking about other people. I was so gripped. I just wanted to get up the rock. I pulled out all my tricks and made it. It was an experience in time, a great adventure. It’s not something I own. Its name and number really don’t mean anything.
I mean c'mon. How bad ass was that guy. ^^^
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Bump for Bachar!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
|
California Dreamin' bump...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
|
I give thanks for Johnny Rock.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 05:34pm PT
|
Bachar Bump...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2018 - 09:55pm PT
|
Iconic climber bump...
|
|
jogill
climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2018 - 10:05pm PT
|
Not to be forgotten. One of the very best.
|
|
bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2018 - 08:46am PT
|
Best issue of climbing ever! Kiss or Kill by MT. Charles Cole Survey of El Cap and this Bachar interview.
You can never have enough Bachar threads!!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
|
missing Johnny Rock bump
|
|
| Messages 1 - 60 of total 60 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!