Johnny Rock- Classic Bachar Interview Steiger Climbing 1986

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Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
Back when my good friend John Steiger first became the assistant editor of Climbing, he went to see the Man about a Hangdog! This interview is pure Bachar and JS knew right where to work his arguments.Great stuff from Climbing October 1986.



















Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 15, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Great, Steve, thanks tons for this.
Walleye

climber
In the Aviary studying trees
Aug 15, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
I remember this like it was yesterday. Thanks for posting it Steve. Somebody outta go up and do Body and Soul in E.B's and get back with a Trip Report..
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 15, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
Paging Bullwinkle... Bullwinkle to the courtesy phone.

(thanks for posting that up Steve... I'd forgotten about it)
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Aug 15, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
Thanks for posting. I was smiling the whole read. That guy stuck to his guns through the sport phase, and came out the other end looking real wise.

Also, I had to laugh with the moritorium section. I wrote a song about Bachar after he died, and included a part about the moritorium. One of my lines had something about shaking like a leaf, because I knew he was scared on that climb. There he is quoted "I wasn't shaking like a leaf," awesome.

Anybody know if he ever soloed equinox? cuz that ryhmes with hot rocks.
Gunks Guy

Trad climber
Rhinebeck, NY
Aug 15, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
Awesome! I remember that article. Had a big impression on me back then. Thanks for posting.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 15, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
Whoa.....ah.....
Cool breeze blowin 'n sh#t.
That's the stuff kids!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2009 - 10:14am PT
Bachar Bump!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 20, 2009 - 10:26am PT
I think he's saying that Werner Braun is a dancer.
fluffy

Trad climber
boulder
Aug 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
great re-read

thanks for posting that
kubok!3

climber
Austin, TX
Aug 20, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
What a great interview. Thanks for posting.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
1986 and Bachar was already saying Werner has been climbing a long time! Is he 108 years old yet?

THanks

Karl
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 21, 2009 - 01:16am PT
2 cool SG, I'd completely forgotten that article.

And it was written on the first PCs brought into Climbing via Steiger.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 21, 2009 - 02:43am PT
Thank you again Steve for a great thread post. I missed this one, so it was very cool.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2009 - 10:39am PT
JS did a really fine job on this piece and JB is right in the thick of the stylistic wrestling match and sharp as a razor!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:45am PT
Thanks for the post, Steve. I still have this issue, and the article is one that really stuck with me. If I recall correctly, the P. Bard shot out the roof was also on the cover of Reader's Digest in the '90s.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Reader's Digest---The home of extreme sports! LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 12:51am PT
One thing leads to another...From Rachel Da Silva's excellent collection, Leading Out- Mountaineering Stories of Adventurous Women, this thoughtful essay by Susan Edwards that mentions the thread piece by JB.







Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
Dance Bump!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 2, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
Dance of the Woo-li masters?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
I have been thinking about JB a lot lately as the snow melts this season.

Phil Bard wrote this excellent tribute for the Sept/Oct 1983 issue of Mountain.







Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 1, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
Next week it will be one year since John died.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 11:50am PT
JB Memorial Bump!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 3, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
1986 was a great year and JB was on fire!
i remember these articles and the inspiration it provided so many climbers..
he will be missed very much this July 5th...
kurt
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
I am still working through it all a year later just like everybody else that knew him.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 3, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
God bless for sure!! See you man!!
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
:) Bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
I said I didn't mean to take up all your sweet time,
I'll give it right back one of these days.
And if I don't meet you no more in this world,
Then I'll meet you in the next one and don't be late, don't be late.


ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jul 5, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
RIGHT ON Steve! Here's to our man Johnny.
Peace
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Jul 5, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
Jaybro, Dance of the Wu Li Masters is a book by Gary Zukav.

Its an overview / explanation of physics as they were current in 1980 or so as far as my book is concerned. It may have been updated since.

TripleS_in_EBs

climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jul 6, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
Kurt,
Your mention of 1986 reminds me of the one day link up of the Nose and Half Dome. When I first heard about it 24 years ago, it blew me away and I think I smiled for a couple of days straight because of it. In fact, it makes me smile right now, too. Thanks for the reminder.

The boys crossing Thank God Ledge
The boys crossing Thank God Ledge
Credit: Phil Bard

On top after weathering the thunderstorm
On top after weathering the thunderstorm
Credit: Phil Bard
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
Yup, that double-up blew my mind too! The separation being a factor as much as the pitch count.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jul 7, 2010 - 12:00am PT
And it was crystalline, perfect that it was John and Peter that accomplished it...
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 7, 2010 - 01:56am PT
Wow! Super shots of the link-up!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 7, 2010 - 02:13am PT
Someone buy that guy on the right a new tee shirt!
TripleS_in_EBs

climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jul 8, 2010 - 02:29am PT
Right on Walleye,
Absolutely perfect. The link up would have to be those two. Got to be. Great ascent, right people, at the right time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2010 - 08:56pm PT
Bee-Bop Bump!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 10, 2010 - 04:36am PT
Geez..I just remembered that I was there the day that JB did the FA on "Sole Fusion." Brenda, his wife took that shot. Mike Lechlinski was belaying him and I think followed it...But that day I couldn't. We used to say gee maybe if we had those Fire's he was sporting? The rest is history...
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 10, 2010 - 08:59am PT
Watusi, good story. i TRIED sole fusion once, could not get half way up the rig. JB was so far ahead of the "HEAD" game than everyone else.
I also remember that year (86) belaying him on (battle of the cosmic giants) project on medlicott, and being so intimidated at the belay as JB takes off on an overhang wall of black knobs with 2 hooks, couple pieces of pro and the hand drill... i think he got another bolt in and then we bailed. that route got rap bolted later and is now called Peace...

wild times..
ks
burp

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Jul 12, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
The article in the thread came from the first Climbing mag I bought when I started climbing. Still have a cherished copy.

Had such an impact on impressionable new climber me, that as I look back ... the foundation for almost everything in my viewpoint of climbing was built from that article.

Everything climbing related went through this filter thereafter.

Enjoy!
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jul 12, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
A great tribute to an unforgettable man.
AFS
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 13, 2010 - 03:23am PT
Yeah Kurt...But I think out of everyone you were closest to his way of thinking!:)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2010 - 10:19am PT
As JB used to say "man that Kid sure can run it out!"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2010 - 12:43am PT
Bachar Bump!
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
bump for the bold
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 8, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
Bump for Bachar
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Feb 8, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
Bump!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Feb 9, 2011 - 12:20am PT
Climbing Bump
d-know

Trad climber
electric lady land
Feb 10, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
bump for JB 'cause he was
THE man.

keepin' it
on the one
funky brother.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Johnny Bump!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
bump-a-louie and a hope for a "Body and Soul" trip report
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Does anybody have information about his unrepeated routes? I love the that's incredible video and made it out to zombie woof in jtree a couple of times (closed for indian rock art now). Couldn't do it but a great swinging fall!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Apr 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Closing in on 2 millionth post bump, for climbing content, Bachar, and our amazing resident historian, Steve Grossman.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
First time I read that interview. Really nice. I liked the directness of the interviewer, not leaving me questioning what questions he asked.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Apr 23, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
When I did You Asked For It I tried to do the least amount of damage to the rock in order to get myself up it. Itís only 5.10c, but if you fall off of it at several different points, youíll probably die.
To climb that route and do the least amount of damage I used all the skills I have learned, trained for, and thought about over many years. It can be viewed as an art, the art of admiring the mountain with the skillful use of bolts, of respecting the rock by using as few as possible.
When I was on You Asked For It I wasnít thinking about other people. I was so gripped. I just wanted to get up the rock. I pulled out all my tricks and made it. It was an experience in time, a great adventure. Itís not something I own. Its name and number really donít mean anything.

I mean c'mon. How bad ass was that guy. ^^^
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 5, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Bump for Bachar!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
California Dreamin' bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
I give thanks for Johnny Rock.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 05:34pm PT
Bachar Bump...
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