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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
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O.K. I'll give it a try.......actually off to do a tad of bouldering. Falls guaranteed.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Done the route dozens of times but
"Then the fourth pitch captures your full attention with difficult friction moves 70 feet above the last bolt. Not a good place to fall". (emphasis added) "
when I circle around to that little roof (couple inches high) and step over it, It's usually got my FULL attention until the climbing backs off for the continued runout to the bolt. Falling would be easy to do and pretty sucking cause if you fall over the roof, it might be hard to stay oriented. Tuolumne falling isn't just a slide over smooth stone like on the apron.
Peace
Karl
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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I agree with Karl.
Here are a few pics.
I think T.G. would not feel obliged to place a bolt after the crux. I wonder what actually happened.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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so why didn't the route follow the dike to the top to the head wall?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Don't know the answer to Ed's question, but a comment about Needle Spoon. It is a nice route, but very different character than the Dike. A zillion bolts on Needle Spoon. The crux is a move (my "technique" is to make a lunge) left to an excellent hold.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The "Hartouni Direct" variation. I can see it now.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Never took a whipper on that route...
I was a little shaky.. but flawless in execution....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What about the face pitches leading up to Boa? I would pay $1.25 for a ropegun on that one.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Cragman:
..."Dike Route is like 3 grades easier than Black Tide"
No way Chiloe. You have your routes confused. Black Tide is a stroll compared to Dike Route.
Hah, Cragman you're right. The route I was thinking of is named Tidal Wave, on Whitehorse Ledge.
Somebody sandbagged Pennsylenvy into leading it. Here he's saying, "Are you sure it goes up this way?"
And there he goes still making 5.9 or 10 moves, about 40' past the last gear.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Yeah. I saw that and thought, "even a whipped dike could take Black Tide."
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Very nice photos, Fuzzywuzzy! Super quality also. Pretty sure that a bolt was added a long time ago. Clint must know. He seems to keep amazing detail on hand.
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brett
climber
oregon
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How does it compare to "A Question of Balance" at Squamish?
Guidebook: "a head spinning runout...tests your self worth as a climber"
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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Perhaps I'll try the Dike Route when I'm in the Valley for the FaceLift, and report on the comparison.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:07am PT
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Anders, if I'm healthy I'll tag along with you.... maybe bring the bolt kit and do the direct finish?!
hell, even if I'm not healthy I can probably get up the thing (been up it a few times, at least)...
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:26am PT
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I onsight free soloed this a few years ago. Great climb. Next time I'm bring a rope.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:32am PT
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This was one of my first climbs in Tuolumne, perhaps 1982 or so. I led all of the pitches and distinctly recall that falling seemed like a really bad idea.
Curt
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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"I onsight free soloed this a few years ago. Great climb. Next time I'm bring a rope. "
That sounds like the unintentional result the first time Dale Bard climbed it. He got lost, missed the bolt, and ended up 150 feet out with no pro. He had the belayer tie the second rope on and led out another 150 feet -- still no pro. Then he kept tugging at the rope until he pulled it out of the belayer's hands (the belayer, David Moss, was a pretty good boulderer (with an amazing power-to-weight ratio because he was a pre-pubescent boy)). He finished the climb dragging two ropes tied to nothing.
I personally never fell on the Dike, but I was saved by an approaching hail storm on the second pitch in June of 1977. I was in mid-lead, guessed at the weather (conveniently, at a bolt) and retreated to the right-slanting crack/ledge just before several inches of hail fell. I'd hate to imagine what would have happened if I went on.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:42am PT
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dun it (as in lead my share aka the hard pitch runout), don't feel the need to repeat it, unless following. :)
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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So I guess I'm the first to admit a whipper on the Dike Route (Pywiack Dome)
Back about 1977
PA shoes.
New to Tuolumne runouts and friction. Had done the mandatory introductory climbs: West Country, Great White Book, even the original Eunuch.
My lead on the crux pitch. We belayed at the bolts below the small roof. Up I went.
Up
Clipped the bolt (used to be only one) above the belay at the 5.9 bulge.
Clipped the bolt at the end of the "40' runout" on SuperTaco page 135.
UP and UP.
Completely missed the curve to the left that actually takes you to a bolt. So I'm out there, UP there.
The bolts at the top of pitch 4 are WAY to my left and a bit below me.
I'm on glacier polish and scared shitless.
"Falling" (PA's never gave any notice of slipping, they just let go)
Slid right down, turned around (don't ask me how or why), looking down at my STARTLED belayer and third climber as I slid. I'm just starting to think "I hope the bolt holds the fall" when I slide over the bulge and come to a gentle stop.
I figure with rope stretch something like 50 - 60 ft.
No harm done.
Well some road rash on my knees and elbows but nothing I haven't done before or since.
Except to my courage. No way was I going back up.
One of my two partners had done it a few times, and HE wouldn't go back up. PISSED me off. I knew I could follow it.
Was a couple of more years before I got back up there and cruised it. It's a great climb if you stay on route. When it goes out left the pitch 4 belay bolt is really hard to see. Have done the climb at least 3 times.
If you're solid on 5.9 friction/face and stay on route it's no sweat and great fun.
A lot of people I've talked to have skipped the last pitch to the summit (pitch 6). That's a really fun pitch to a nice view down into the valley behind Pywiack.
Has anyone put modern bolts/hangers up there? If so, the route will be much more obvious.
HMMMM. perhaps I'll go up the route next weekend and see for myself.
Hysterical (historical) note:
I'm not sure why the current guides don't mention the walk offs as well as the rappels. We used to do a 30 foot rap off a tree at the east end of the dome and walk down Pywiack creek, a beautiful little valley. That tree might be history now. You can also "walk" down to the west on the dome. Steep 4th class. Maybe 5th in a couple of places. I've only done that once.
On a busy day the rappels look like a cluster F**K
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PP
Trad climber
SF,CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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I got off route there a few weeks ago. It was my first lead in Tuolumne in a few years, I found myself 30 feet to right of the bolt after the bulge. It was a delicate traverse , glad i didn't fall. Had a friend who fell when he went too far left of the bulge and hit his belayers, heard there were some cartwheels on the way down, but no broken bones.
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