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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Your best bet is finding a good mentor or mentors. There are so many climbers today that it shouldn't be that hard in the bay area. Just put some time in at the local crags to see if your mentor is truly attentive to anchors and belaying. It's much better to find out at a small rock that someone is more walk than talk then a couple pitches up in the sierras.
And if you just don't seem to find that mentor, go it your own. I started in the bay area over 20 years ago. I took some courses in yosemite, read everything I could find, and enlisted some friends to try out climbing. I started leading in the pinnacles on sparsly spaced questionable old bolts in more questionable rock. My skills developed over the years and then I started climbing multi pitch routes in Tahoe, Yosemite, Courtright, etc.
I found the best way I improved my climbing was to boulder frequently. Nothing beats learning various ways to use your hands, feet, balance, etc then trying hard and awkward moves on the boulders.
As far as placing pro, that's something that you have to learn hands on. Test those placements, and not just in a straight down pull. You need to learn to account for rope drag pulling out placements.
Most of us learned with limited resources, so long as you have the desire, and go about it methodically and work your way up, you'll be in the thick of it in no time.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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I'm not sure if these classes are really still taught, but the rock 1 & rock 2 classes used to be a great way to get started in the east bay. Rock 2 sounds like a starting point for what you want to learn.
http://daltman.com/outdoor.html
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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No offense to anyone here but I've always found professional climbing instruction to be a waste of money. Don't get me started on gyms.
Just go hang with someone you trust, see they if appear competant, i.e. Topropes for a while, get a feel, then go!!!
If you want to learn how to climb in the real world, climb in the real world - safely on TR's at first, then proceed.
I f*#king hate gyms..... (I do acknowledge they are good training though if that's your deal)
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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the classes I linked are taught on rock, not gym.
I've seen many people learning poor techniques or the "gumby way" from their experienced partner. Professional instruction isn't always great either though.
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mason805
Big Wall climber
East Bay, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Wow, so many responses. Thank you, I have a lot of great information from all of you!
---Bluering, that sounds awesome, I'm in. Can I bring along a friend, she's at the same level I am (we had the lessons together)? I will get the harness and shoes (thanks for the generous offer, I will email you).
I have nothing against gyms, I have climbed their walls quite a few times, but I really enjoy the feeling of being on the rock. Of course if I am near a rock climbing wall, I'll probably go climb it if it's in a gym anyway.
Thanks for the book recommendations from everyone.
And of course, I'm surprised that I haven't been hazed at all. You've all been pretty cool, so thanks.
Last couple of questions (yea right, i'm sure I'll have a lot more): Is camp 4 in Yosemite strictly walk in and is there a limit to how many people can camp there daily?
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mason805
Big Wall climber
East Bay, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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So, Scully, how did you get your nickname anyway?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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Yeah, I here ya David. I learned on my own w/ books and going out and ultra-bombifying everything at first. Now I'm way more lax, just 3 points instead of like 5.
Photonez even 'had the nerve' to criticise one of my anchors on the topout ledge of NW Books. How dare he!!11!
Hahaa, he thought I was pissed about his criticism, but I was just arguing that while one cam appeared almost tipped out, that cams are bomber with double-axles and the cam met a constriction that would have most definately prevented rotation and exit.
I thought it was bomber, he didn't. Whatever...That's why it's nice climbing with other peeps, talk about sh#t.
I later told him the third cam was placed after the second came up and I looked at the anchor and thought, "wouldn't hurt to slam in a 3rd!!!! piece....."
If you know that belay, it's purdy solid with a tri-cam and a cam equalized.
Mason, e-mail me....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
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Camp 4: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/camp4.htm
Be warned that we encourage people to take the initiative, particularly with regard to requests for information that can be found without much effort. As the various religions mostly say, god helps those who help themselves.
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mason805
Big Wall climber
East Bay, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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Mighty, point taken! I was being lazy with that question, but thanks for the link.
Bluering, I just emailed you.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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I'll pm the story to ya.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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Ok, I gave regular ol' advice last time. This time I'll wise crack.
You won't find any big walls in the gym...........HA!!!!
Get out on the real stone EVERY chance you get.
Don't get stuck in the pose down safari!!
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mason805
Big Wall climber
East Bay, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
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What is a pose down safari??
I don't understand the language of the Supertopians.
Let me go and google search a Supertopian Crag manual.
BRB.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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"Supertopian Crag Manual"???(maybe it has a good supertaco recipe)
Naw, it's just like a dialect.
Hang out at a few climber campfires, you'll catch on.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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1) Where is the best place to start to learn all the techniques?
Answer: By observing others climb, preferably those better then you, you can glean plenty of knowledge about technique. This is either something you got when you were born (meaning "in the genes") or you can work your azz off to obtain. Also, asking those who have just climbed something in which you see something that you don't quite understand.. then ask a question. You never know how willing people will be to help.
2) What's a good resource to learn about good gear to purchase?
Here, I'm gonna have to say that Chris Mac's Supertopo Guidebooks are full of every piece of gear you might need (and more) for any of the climbs you'll be thinking about climbing. That said, you're going to get as many different opinions about good-better-best gear available from each person you talk to. I suggest you find a few different gear sites (get a climbing mag, look at the ads, jot down the names of the manufacturers, visit their sites) to compare prices of gear you heard or read about.
3) What's a good resource to find good beginner and intermediate climbs
Again, check this site for the many guidebooks available. They list them inside the guidebooks. They are cool.
I see that you list your "From:" field as East Bay... Berkeley Ironworks, and across the bay at Mission Cliffs are good places to learn all that you may need to know before heading out to the crags. Or Planet Granite in SF and Sunnyvale. All good climbing gyms.
Oh, and forget about the "top-roping" lessons.. waist of money! Just start climbing in the gym, get better, then move the party to the outside.
As for your multi-pitch aspirations... Are you in a hurry? If so, stop now and stick to bouldering and sport climbing. They are easy to do and inexpensive. Multi-anything takes time. Time to get the technique, gear and beginner/intermediate climbing out of the way.
I know how eager you must feel.. I felt that way when I was getting started... but there are no shortcuts, except for those that seem to have been born to climb.
And always.. take your time. There is no hurry. You will learn everything you need to know to do what you want to do in due time. Otherwise, hopefully, you won't be green enough to try it anyway!
Hope this mindless yammering helps, good luck.
cheers
OH NO HE DIDN'T EDIT: Mason... don't take any of these folk too seriously.. Don't get bogged in the language being used here either... some of these folks have been at it forever and have developed their own unique dialect.
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Jul 22, 2009 - 09:38am PT
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not sure if this got covered in the previous 52 posts but...
Keep in mind there's more than one way to skin a cat. What is one person's "Never do this" is someone else's "it's ok to do that". This is a bit more challenging for someone who is new as, well, it can be a bit tricky to process contradicting info. But this is not just applicable to climbing. It happens in science, medicine, law, etc. As a newb don't be afraid to diplomatically question.
before the gear, it all starts (& continues) w/ footwork.
Don't make (too much) fun of people that climb in the gym either. Sometimes it's all they've got. It's all I got : (
... until saturday : )
Definitely definitely definitely support the little guy retailer (as opposed to REI, where they have little to offer beyond the basics, and their selection can suck even for the basics). Supporting the little guy can also mean knowing for sure what gear you will eventually want to buy, so that you don't regret & want to return. Knowing what you want means cleaning cleaning cleaning with lots of different folks & seeing the pros & cons of various gear.
Once I started leading & got the basics of self rescue, I felt liberated enough to climb w/ just about anyone who could belay, inclsome tacoheads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0934641978/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=304485901&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=089886772X&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1W6XT5TZ46NXG1DYA4GE
http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:30am PT
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Oops, sorry, I got bogged down in Doug/Fish-speak.
Pose Down Safari:
ie: group posing.
1) Historically speaking, this beloved cultural pastime began in the muscle-beach days, with the swimsuit/bikini clad boys and girls all flexing and breathing and swelling for each others viewing pleasure. Pre-historic Darwinian mating rituals.
2) It then graduated to the body building gyms. In this setting the skillful placement of mirrors, and then many mirrors, allowed participants to not only observe the posing of members of the opposite camp, but to admire themselves as well.
3) Eventually this found it's way to the crags. Initially there were only other male gorillas to flex for, but then with the addition of more and more lady climbers, the posing began in earnest.
4) With the onset of brilliant retailers realizing that climbing clothing could be not only functional but stylish, the true evolution of the pose down safari in our game was set. In fact they began to realize that for many participants, the clothing could be MORE important than the actual climbing!
5) Finally, with the addition of the gym environment, the picture became complete. An enclosed posing environment where the players didn't have to be encumbered with wool hats and rain jackets, younger and more handsome members from both camps, lots of closely packed comparative test pieces, (think larger weight sets.) and the ever present hormone package..........
6) VOILA!! Pose Down Safari.
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mason805
Big Wall climber
East Bay, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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QITNL - thanks for the offer! I will definitely take you up on that.
I think the best way I'll learn is getting out there with experienced climbers and so far I'm learning that a few daring veterans are willing to take a chance on a n00b! That's what I'm here for, to make friends and meet people and of course learn to be the best climber I can. Cheers!
Survivor - haha so have you ever been around a real pose down safari? I think i'd bring a camera and post on facebook for a good laugh.
Captain - I understand your "don't head butt El Cap" comment now. Ouch? You're crazy, man!
Thanks to everyone who's responded and given great information.
Now, can anyone make a living rock climbing? And i'm not talking about rich and famous. More like, will work for food and to rock climb!
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jstan
climber
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Jul 22, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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You will find quite a few people who can advise you, who did choose to
combine work and avocation. The people who chose otherwise generally don't
speak up. I am one of those.
When I made my choice, I saw no choice. Climbing had not, as yet, gone
commercial. To answer, you have to project into the future and ask if this kind
of life will please and will fulfill your needs in the future as well as it seems to
right now. It is a little like a marriage. What suits you now may not
suffice after you have changed.
Only two remaining observations.
At a conference, one now very well known climbing author, shared his
observation that combining work and climbing changed his enjoyment of the
climbing. It becomes different.
Finally, if you combine the two when that one thing has gone into an unhappy
period, as all things do sooner or later, absolutely everything will seem bad.
Always being interested in at least two different things becomes a very
important insurance policy.
Edit:
This thread is proceeding in parallel at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=909112&tn=0
EDIT2:
Admittedly this post is not worth reading but at least note that it CAN be read.
Go back and put a carriage return at the end of each sentence after you have
finished your post.
The photo pirates then will have no power over you.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 23, 2009 - 12:28am PT
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Understand that you Will starve.
If you don't die, you are stronger. Mostly.
I did end up climbing that Wall.
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Jul 23, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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One thng I'm noticing you are already doing right is being honest with your ability level. Your honest assessment of yourself and well thought out questions will take you far on the Internet.
My advice is to stay off the plastic. No dynos, simple solid movements. No campus boards, no Bachar ladders. Your tendons will thank you to let your body get used to the movements while you first start up. Resist the urge to go climb 5 days a week for a while.
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