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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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A group of us Grand Junction folk went to Silverton for the Fireworks.
Silverton always provides one of the best shows because of the acoustics that the surrounding mountains provide. While some of us went for a hike, Jenn and I went down in between Durango and Silverton to Cascade Canyon and checked out this huge flume and did some climbing in one of the best locations.
After the fireworks we somehow made it back to camp and mumbled about our previous plans to go up past Telluride and do Lizard Head Peak In the morning.
I balked at it as I know more people who have failed at this because of the weather than have succeeded. It seemed especially unlikely because we were still in Silverton. Garrett knew a short cut and at a not so alpine start of seven we drove over Ophir Pass. Jenn's subaru having mild issue with some spots. We passed a troop of "off Roaders" that seemed disappointed by the Subaru's performance.
When we arrived at the pull out I already had assumed in my mind that it would just be a hike but everyone seemed to think differently and wanted to press on to climb. The first crux was getting Kodi the Husky past all of the sheep that were being herded.
On the hike up we were serenaded by probably 200 hundred head of elk bugling. Kodi was on patrol making sure no scent or crevice was left unexplored.
I saw that the weather was starting to build and swirl around the peak but we decided we would at least get to the base.
The weather was still looking iffy, but we decided to give it a try. By this time it was probably 1. I was amazed the weather was still holding. There was three of us and to save time I climbed up and brought them both up. This was probably not the best idea as the quality of rock is so poor but they kept close together. The rock is just a series of stacked cubes waiting to explode on you. Luckily the climbing was easy.
The hairiest part was the shoulder you had to traverse to get to the second pitch. Much loose rock which we hoped Kodi was expertly dodging. Second pitch provided solid rock compared to the first pitch. Soon we were up and saw the summit register with fewer recorded ascents than expected.
Some Choss Rapping got us to the top of the first pitch where a re bolted anchor greeted us. I pulled outwardly on some of the webbing that held some relics left at the belay and they both came out. Probably not from the first ascent in the 20's.
Kodi was happy to see us and we set off back to the car. I marveled at our luck. It was quite the scenic choss pile.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
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Nice work !
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Leapin' Lizards! How cool to find a well-illustrated TR of that peak.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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And Kodi deserves steak for (1) not chasing the elk, and (2) expertly dodging those rocks.
He was waiting patiently by your packs?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Nice job, glad the weather cooperated with ya.
Kodi's a fine looking pup.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Wow! that Kodi is the fluffiest red Siberian I've ever seen. I used to have a red, he had the wandering lust and was always taking off.
I climbed that glorious pile in the mid 70's, sure put the new Joe Brown helmet I had just bought to good use. You guys didn't start until 1:00????, the lightning gods must have been with you. We rapped off of that thing with electric tingles up the back of our necks at about 2:00 in the afternoon.
Great pictures, looks like things haven't changed much in 30 years.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Kodi is the biggest wanderer ever! He always comes back unless he is captured. It can be a bit frustrating!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Nice TR!
Now please mail me my pitons!
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Gooney
Trad climber
Longmont, CO
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
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Ha ha - I have a ring angle right here on my desk that I hand-extracted from Lizard Head in 1983.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jul 16, 2009 - 02:50pm PT
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Awesome photos!
Thanks for posting.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 16, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Fantastic pictures of what seems to be a perfect day!
Looks like some good booty there!
Cheers!
Mucci
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Nice job! Great pix!
I plan on getting up that rock pile one of these days!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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BE-U-TIF-ULL_
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 28, 2009 - 04:07am PT
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seems there is a trend there of hand pulling pins.
++ choss bump
what exactly did you rap from then?
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perswig
climber
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Jul 28, 2009 - 07:22am PT
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Cool. Nice mix of photos. Lucky wx.
Dale
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jul 28, 2009 - 08:51am PT
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Thanks J--
been wanting to do that one, A friend over here in Paonia did the first winter ascent way way back. Love the San Juan rock. But you gotta get up outta the heat these days, eh?
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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Been trying to stay away from Junction as much as possible, so blasted hot! Probably a little cooler where you are at aye?
-Jesse
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Jul 28, 2009 - 09:56am PT
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Hey Chuckawalla nice TR. You do seem to have been graced with favor by the lightning gods as Ydpl8s said. Not a good place in a buzz. Speaking of which, while I was checking out the pic of your cool old, hand pulled booty pins I noticed a stem. Doesn't look like you were eating grapes.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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Bump for Adventure!
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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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