The Nose Wipe 2009 (TR)


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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
It’s been a tradition among the Yosemite Climbing Ranger program to conduct a Nose climbing patrol every couple years to check on the build-up of trash on the world’s most beautiful big wall. This year, myself–Eric Bissell–and NPS Volunteer Alex Baker gladly picked the short straw and embarked on our first Nose ascent. And as Trip Reports seem to be in short supply at the Taco stand lately, I thought I would post up some photos and a short description to let you all know how it went.

Looking up at the start of the route.

Alex was a past Wilderness ranger in Yosemite and is now focusing on his aerospace grad schooling in Portland. Eschewing fixing to Sickle, we hiked up to the base with a big load (88lbs of water!) and started climbing at about 7:00am. We were aiming for El Cap Tower that night.

After climbing for about four hours we reached Sickle Ledge and my block was done. As Alex started up the next pitch I cleaned up some disgusting rotting chile peppers. What the … Who left that there? It smelled so bad and I was terrified that they would explode in our haul bag so I put them in the bottom of our poop tube. Regardless, they stank for the rest of the trip. I also poured out some rancid apple juice and collected some empty (and now empty) water bottles and headed out…

Alex penduluming into the Stovelegs. He linked 5 and 6, then went to the intermediate belay at the base of the stovelegs.

A Tom Evan’s shot: Alex in the stove legs.

I took over at pitch nine and barely(!) made it to dolt with a 60m haul line. I had an old bd #4 and a new bd #4 and walked them up the ow section. To get the haul line into the pro-traxion on dolt I had to attach a long sling to the anchor to lower it a few crucial feet.

At Dolt we passed a party of two that had ascended their fixed lines to sickle that morning. They were suffering from the heat but were determined to stick it out. Walls in the summer means bring lots of water– you’ll definitely be happy for it!

A couple nice fixed pieces made the wide stuff below El Cap tower mellow, and we happily reached our bivy with daylight to spare.

Tasty-Bite dinner with the Grouse Creek Fire in the background.

The next day we were pysched to get moving. I gingerly stepped around some VERY loose blocks at the start of the Texas Flake chimney and then shimmied up to the top. The west side of the chimney felt super solid and I avoided the temptation of the big shiny bolt inside so Alex could jug the outside.

Boot Flake, one of many gorgeous and fun flakes on the Nose.

The King Swing was next and went without too much issue. I lowered down to the bolt ladder, got a little momentum and went for the blind corner and grabbed it! Andy, in the party below yelled up “He got it first go!” but Alex responded, “He hasn’t made it yet,” just as my sweaty hands oozed off the sloping corner and I went sprinting back. On the second go I was a little more prepared and made the tension traverse into the layback. As I waited at the belay, Alex performed the monstrous lower out and came quickly up to take over the lead.

Alex contemplating free moves in the grey bands.

Alex took us into the Grey Bands and to the intermediate belay between pitch 18 and 19, where we left the bags and enjoyed moving unhindered to pitch 21. This allowed Alex to give me a belay from the intermediate to Camp IV, which was a nice way to follow that traversing section. At Camp IV we encountered some more trash, including an enormous leather boot… anyone missing their right shoe? The thing weighed ten pounds.

Next came this beautiful piece of granite.

Alex re-aiding the Great Roof.

Day two ended at Camp V, where we set up the ledge, called out of service for the evening, and watched the fire turn pink on the horizon.

Alex was in the lead the next day and as he took off, I worked on fishing for ancient cans in the back of a crack at our bivy with my nut tool. As I jugged up to Camp VI I was optimistic about what we might find there, besides the bag or two of miscellaneous trash that we had picked up, the route looked fairly clean, but within ten feet of the platform I began to pass more and more trash. Once I got to Alex I thought I had seen the worst until I peeked into a dark crack on the opposite side. I would say that this spot is possibly the most disgusting place I have seen in the entire park, in what should be one of Yosemite’s most respected locations. Camp VI is not the act of a single climber or “fringe” group but is the build-up of years of ignorant and immature people. I would have hoped that anyone who had developed the skills to climb the Nose to pitch 26, would have also developed some love and respect for our sport and this place that most awesomely represents it.

Possibly people see the utter mess of Camp VI and think that their trash will not be a substantial addition? I would ask why they would want to associate themselves with this statement of disrespect, why they would want to tie themselves directly to this trash dump 2500’ off the ground? Instead, when passing this revolting spot one could demonstrate that they disagree with it by taking out some of the trash.

But enough words for now… here’s some photos to show what almost every glamorous Nose ascent quickly passes:

Well, a little difficult to return to a great mood after that sobering episode, but luckily Alex is a great partner and he raised the moral by yelling about what a great time he was having through the free climbing at the beginning and end of Changing Corners.

After Changing Corners, I got some more incredible pitches with plenty of free and French-free up beautiful corners, laybacks, and sharp flakes. Even aiding out the final bolt ladder was some fun.

We topped out around 4:30 and feasted on our extra food.


Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
Nice TR and pics and thankyou for the effort!

What a cesspool Camp 6 is! Will it allways be that way?
Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
Cool. Not that I have ever climbed the Nose and pretty unlikely that I ever will, but thanks for your efforts. Good to see people are out taking care of stuff like this.

A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
I note with awe, the lack of gloves whilst cleaning out the cesspool. Looks exactly like it did when I did the Nose in 1992.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
Wow! Ultra Badass!!!!!

That musta sucked cleaning up everyone's trash. Thanks for doing it. I'm sure it's much appreciated by all whole climb the route.

Maybe seeing no trash will encourage others to stop leaving their shit!

Well done, dudes!
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
Maybe the Park Service would pop for about 3 yards of ShotCrete and seal over that vile hole at Camp 6?

Good job guys!

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
Nice work! Perhaps you could describe the odors emanating from the festering pit? I dry heaved a bit just looking at the close up photo.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
Thanks, guys. If you're ever in Hood River, Oregon, stop in to the Hood River Coffee Co. and I'll comp you some bags of fresh beans.

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 15, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Thanks for the great report and all the awesome effort on cleaning up after some incredibly thoughtless people!!!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jul 15, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
Thanks for the great TR and for cleaning up the route.

Trad climber
Nevada, CA
Jul 15, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
Nice report!
Thanks you both so much!

Trad climber
New York, NY
Jul 15, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
I should have known better....I was just putting a spoonful of Rocky Road ice cream to my lips when I scrolled to the poop picture.


the Fet

Supercaliyosemistic climber
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
Good Show!!!!!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
"Bizz" does the business!
Right on, dude.....Yeah, Maybe we should just eliminate Camp 6....Blow it right off the rock! Then, when they're hangin' in slings,They'll wish they hadn't trashed it.
Less impact than Hetch Hetchy.....The illegal, STOLEN Dam Valley.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
Nice TR and great work, Eric! And thanks again for helping with the rebolting on Mother Earth last summer.

San Fran Cisco
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
SPECTACULAR photos, and thank you so much for doing this.
Alex Baker

Jul 15, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
Thanks for all the positive comments. I'll post some remarks, more photos and some videos here when I get time.


Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Keep the kingdom fit, words to live by.

Great TR!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 15, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
Good Alex and Eric. Glad it went really well and thanks for doing so much to help the route!!

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:10am PT
complete and utter respect for that trash fishing expedition.

thank you

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:20am PT
Good job, thanks for the TR, the photos and the reality check on Camp VI... That place is disgusting.. and like you say.. the climbers should all be packing out whatever they can reach while traveling through, but like the well rounded, hard men and women they are.. they don't!


(I'm not bitchin' about this, cause I might never see that pitch. but.. man...)

I thought I was part of a smarter crowd than that.... I guess that's why I show up at the face lift.. so I can feel like I've not done what others of my kind have.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:29am PT
Dude, climb the Nose FOR facelift!
You KNOW Camp 6 will need it......CustomMade.
You get to Wall climb AND be the hero with all the trash.
Worth thinkin' about.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:47am PT
One of the more amazing Threads with Accompanying Pics that I have seen on ST since joining up year and a half ago. Superb!

Pictures of some of the Granite Features are way outstanding!

Climbers can't really be why do they leave that gross debris....tired or poor planning ? Jess wondering, lynnie.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:53am PT
Man alive. That one trench looked like an open latrine. That´s some serious work, there.

Hard to believe climbers being such pigs.

Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:36am PT
Climb up. Spend ALL day there, making & sending "packages".
Have a ground crew to receive. Easy.
Summit & hike down. WooHoo!
Camp 6 has been excavated before. Ask Conn(spelling) about that.
They'll do it again.

Social climber
No Ut
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:47am PT
Great report Eric. I really like the idea of a more thorough FaceLift NoseWipe. If I could, I'd definitely brandish the hanky for that one.


Boulder climber
Neil Young land
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:49am PT
thanks for the tr. wouldn't it be nice if people stopped and thought about the impact we have on everything we do

Boulder climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 02:03am PT
el cap pics eat your heart out, that was fantastic!

they need a chopper with a water nozzle,
like for pg$e towers and sh#t.

or lower down a steam cleaner, i wouldn't go near that without a full syringe of



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is everybody down with that?

quiz this friday...


Jul 16, 2009 - 02:10am PT
thankyou, let's hope it's the end of having G-men moving our shame around on our precious. i can't muster an inch of slack, my disdain is absolute. we have ways of building consensus, have we not?

Social climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
Nice work Eric on the TR!

And nice work Alex and Eric on both cruising the Nose and "wiping" it as you go! At this point it looks like Camp 6 still has some boogers to be picked.

Surprisingly, from the looks of the photos, there appears to be less trash in the crack than before the previous two Nosewipes. This means that our (almost) yearly efforts are having a sustainable effect, and climbers are adding less trash to the pile than what they are taking out.

On the other hand the alarming, gross, unbelieveable poo droppings are fresh from this spring/summer. WTF!! Could a lurker on this Forum be responsible for adding to this disgusting example of humans at their worst?? I hope not, but if you're out there shame, shame, you climbed the Nose in poor, poopy style. This route, referred to as the "greatest rock climb in the world" by many, deserves our greatest efforts to respect and honor the history and tradition that it represents.

I've heard the many calls for us (the NPS) to fill the Camp 6 crack in with concrete, rocks from the top of El Cap, a wire mesh barrier covering the crack, etc, etc. At first this sounds like a great idea. However, these options would require quite an involved effort, potentially a safety hazard, and draw more attention to the impacts of climbing to the non-climbing public. In addition the Nose is Designated Wilderness and we can't add structures/installments without a arduous review process determining if that is the minimum level of management input for the area. (Please don't mention, "Than why do we allow the Half Dome cables, or bolts for that matter?")

If every climber who climbed the Nose brought gloves, and trash bags and pulled a few pieces of garbage out with them as they passed through Camp 6, the bivy could be cleaned up in a few seasons. (True we would have to go down with extended litter sticks to get to the bottum.) I stil believe that we can eventually just clean Camp 6 close to 100%, and then raise the peer pressure to be Leave no Trace on Big Walls to the extent of public shame for folks who violate the sacred trust of El Capitan.

My 3.5 cents,

Jesse McGahey
Yosemite Climbing Ranger

Big Wall climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
Nice work guys!

Dunno why, but the NPS/ranger climbing shirt makes me laugh.

Trad climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
wow, brutal.

nice effort.

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
Good work if you can get it?
Maybe for the olfactorily challenged.

I guess I'll have to add a chapter to my
forthcoming book, "America, Land of the Free, Home of the Hypocrites". Would that chapter be "Love it or Leave it"?

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 16, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
Great photos and excellent trip report.
Thanks so much for your work cleaning up that beautiful and wonderful climb.
We need more climbers like you guys!

Crestline CA
Jul 16, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
Thanks for your great report and service to the Captain.. really appreciated!!

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 16, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
Thank you for your outstanding effort, a selfless act that benefits many. You set a standard that many will carry with them while upon the great walls.

Looks like you squeezed some fun out of it!

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 16, 2009 - 04:32pm PT
Good work!

Jesse - you mention extender litter sticks. Is there such a thing that's commercially available? There's a crack in a ledge just below the south summit of the Chief - actually the top of the Squamish Buttress - that hikers have filled with water bottles. A fairly wide crack, maybe 15 cm, and nearly straight in. Most of what's visible is bottles, but they're well out of reach of a regular litter stick. They're nearly 2 m down. Either a long litter stick, or a stick + noose arrangement, seem needed.

Big Wall climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
why not attach a litter stick to an extendable painter's stick? Seems easy enough.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 16, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
2 meters? No problemo...

or this one

Boulder climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
that poop is gonna exfoliate the captain, just like the bathroom on top of glacier.
same with the king cobra piss.

why not put a granite colored porta poty up there, and hire chongo to clean it out?


Trad climber
Jul 16, 2009 - 11:01pm PT
Wow! Props to Alex and Eric,(and the NPS), for the effort. Your service is greatly appreciated. These guys (NPS climbing rangers) deserve mad respect. Thanks for your dedication.

How many LBS of buggers did you clean from The Nose?


Social climber
Jul 17, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
Nefarius, Bluering, Mighty Hiker,

Thanks for the feedback on the cheater poop grabbing devices. I like the thoughts.

Just a reminder for everyone about the Facelift: Ken and I both want the Facelift to focus on non-climber garbage. The idea being that we always pick up after ourselves, and for that week during the Facelift we are concentrating on helping cleanup after the rest of the park users....including the good ol' NPS! anyone else getting fired up about the Facelift? I am. Ken has been working tirelessly as only he can to lineup a sweet week of evening entertainment. We all need to be prepared to get out there and bust it for Yosemite to earn the fun!



Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
Hey All!

Thanks for the positive feedback, it's great to have your support.
I was feeling a little bummed writing that bit on Camp VI, but now I feel like there is a strong contigent of thoughtful climbers that would like to see, (and work for) a clean Camp VI.
When I first came off the Nose I thought the only choice to fix it up there was some radical idea like a concrete plug or grate or dynamite (not really), but after taking a step back it seems shortsighted and lazy to just seal up our problems rather than address them.
I feel now that if we made Camp VI look spotless, then we could have a chance to actually make an extremely positive statement about a new generation of clean climbers.
I don't know how others feel but I'm getting kind of psyched on this... what a great problem to put into action all of our (typically) selfish skills that we have learned in our years climbing!
The park service is down to support this effort if climbers with ample big wall experience want to volunteer for a lower from the top operation. It would be great to do it during the summer when the route won't be as crowded.
Ideally climbers are always doing small clean-ups when they are out, but in the case of Camp VI a little stimulus shot may be needed.

If you're interested in helping, Yosemite climbing management can be reached at (209) 372-0360.


Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jul 17, 2009 - 01:22pm PT

Left to their own devices, it seems the modern climber will just make the situation worse per trash, till all of the upper Nose looks like Everest basecamp - a kind of international garbage dump. Somebody is going to have to go down there with a hazmat suit and start digging.

There probably needs to be something posted in Camp 4 about the mess up there. There was trash left up there as early as 1972, but nothing like now. Fantastic you guys tried to clean it up, tragic you ever had to.

Alex Baker

Jul 17, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
Camp VI is disgusting no, doubt, and I think a top down cleaning it for real would be a good thing to do, even if it get's trashed again. The rest of the route is currently spotless, besides Robbin's old bolt stub next to the boot. I thought I'd take this time to share some more photos and comments about the rest of this great route.

Anyway, here we are about to start the route, old school style photo:

Image courtesy Paolo Speirn

Grasshopper waiting to leave Camp V:

We brought a portaledge and I would again:

Eric looks perturbed after the dirty work:

What a cool position:


Image courtesy Eric's dad who we did not know was there until the evening.

Now really done, not sure what I was talking about at this point:

Image by Daddy Grasshopper aka Ted Bissell

Finally, even Ranger's get to enjoy themselves at the bridge:

Ted Bissell

Not sure what's up w/ 2 of the photos, you can right click to see em. Anybody have some advice?

Eric Nearly Getting King Swing First Try:


Trad climber
Jul 17, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
My hat's off to you guys.

Simply Awesome.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 17, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
Eric looks perturbed after the dirty work:

Can't say I blame him if he was!

That vid of the King Swing is cool. Good job, dudes!

Social climber
Jul 17, 2009 - 05:01pm PT

I think we will put together something at the Camp 4 Climber's Info Board showing our clean-up efforts over the years, and what Camp 6 looks like these days.

Hopefully that can add to the peer pressure to climb in a clean responsible style. Climbers should prepare not only for the mechanics of climbing and summiting, but also the process of doing it with respect to the vertical wilderness of El Cap or any other wall for that matter.

I think almost every climber agrees that what we have seen at Everest Base Camp or Camp 6 shows the very worst of our sport, but the willingness to work together to clean-up after others shows the selfless respect that most of have for these awesome places.


Trad climber
the range of light
Jul 18, 2009 - 02:39am PT
Grasshopper, Shakespere..

I tried to hide the body of some wise guy in the crack in camp VI last year. didja find it?

great work, proud send!

-The Rog

Trad climber
Jul 18, 2009 - 02:49am PT
Good effort guys. It is appreciated by all.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 18, 2009 - 11:56am PT
good on you guys! thanks for your part in the ongoing effort to clean up that historic, and overused, route.

Too many people...

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jul 18, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
Good effort guys!

I just passed through Camp VI. Unfortunately I slept there sans portaledge. I was revolted. I wouldn't have been able to reach down to any of the trash had I wanted too, its too deep. I think that trash must go down 10 feet or more. I would be willing to help out cleaning it up if anyone has some good ideas on how.

I think it would require big hooked spears for poking and pulling, grabbers for grabbing, and several haul bags and garbage bags... nasty... maybe a tyvex suit?

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jul 18, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
Great photos & TR. The garbage is uber gross. I won't feel so bad as I pluck toilet paper flowers this coming facelift.

Trad climber
Jul 18, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
Capt it with concrete. Its the only thing that will stop it. People from around the world, people without our sense of responsibility or sensibilities will always use it. Its the perfect outdoor latrine and disposal people come across after what is usually days on a wall. Theres gotta be allot of crap in that crack, and I mean that literally. I wouldn't want to dig it out. Cap it and stop it completely and force people to carry their poop out. It would make Camp 6 a wholesome place again. It could be done to match the granite so it would look like part of the rock. You could even use El Cap sand and gravel for the concrete so it is still El Cap rock for those whose ethics would feel threatened. Something to think about, a win-win situation.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 18, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
I really favor my sling belay....
No, I don't have any dynamite. I know how it's made, though.
I think there's an actual feasible deep crack capping scenario that is viable....Otherwise, monkeys WILL cast into the void.
It's their nature!

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 18, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
see folks, the nps isn't all that bad. outside of the tool brigade there are some wonderful, soulful peeps working for the park service for all the right reasons -- love of the planet, respect for the reasons the national parks were created in the first place.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 18, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
"Ken and I both want the Facelift to focus on non-climber garbage."

As climbers are also hikers, and use trails until they put the rope on, e.g. at the base of the NWFHD, hopefully we can make a trip there and clean both trail and base up. :-)
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 18, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
Word. That area sees some hard use/impact.

Trad climber
Jul 18, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
Nice TR. Thanks for cleaning all that up.
Not that I'll ever do the route!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 18, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
see folks, the nps isn't all that bad. outside of the tool brigade there are some wonderful, soulful peeps working for the park service for all the right reasons -- love of the planet, respect for the reasons the national parks were created in the first place.

Well said, Bob. Some rangers are pretty cool....They ain't all 'tools'.

Thanks again guys!
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jul 18, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
Thanks for your efforts with trash pickup. It's always nice to see people doing something about it other than just complaining. Nice TR and Ascent!


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 18, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Neat TR, guys.
Thanks for the clean-up.
You'd think that people would be
good enough about carrying their EMPTIES down
with 'em. . .
I guess not.
You guys are GREAT!!!!

Social climber
granada hills
Mar 15, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
Thanks for your efforts.
Great TR.
What a shame.

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