Ten Sleep Climbing appreciation thread

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Messages 1 - 26 of total 26 in this topic

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2009 - 07:33pm PT

I'm needing a dose of sport climbing. A big dose.

One area relatively near here I'd like to go to is Ten Sleep. Got the Huey guide and checked out the photos. Checked out photos here on the taco as well. And I saw what is posted on RC.com.

Still I'd like to see and hear more about this place. It's clear that the only real source of good info is from the tacos here.

Anyone have anything they want to share?

socalbolter

Sport climber

Silverado, CA

Jul 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT

I'll try to write more later, but it's well worth a trip...

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 15, 2009 - 07:43pm PT

Crimper, keep the faith, you'll be okay, take some cams to bed with you, somehow this sport climbing obsession will pass. If, however, you're in an addictive stage, I'll say that I spent an afternoon at Tensleep a couple of years ago. The wall I went to was in the sun and very hot but the white limestone was very high quality. I since have learned that it is possible to chase the sun or the shade depending on conditions. Hope you get more definitive info.- look forward to your TR.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 15, 2009 - 07:48pm PT

Shiii-t wish you'd mentioned this earlier, i have some access to some of that beta. I'd have sent you a book. Drop me a line at my mac account. i'm out the door now. but I can give you phone contact with those who know who to know on this topic. World class bivy options, as well. drop me a line, there may be giggles to come...

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Jul 15, 2009 - 07:58pm PT

Lord Slime loves that area, often talks about it. I haven't managed to get there myself though.

Domingo

Trad climber

El Portal, CA

Jul 15, 2009 - 08:00pm PT

Generally speaking, I loathe sport climbing. However, I'm convinced I could spend days in the over-bolted sport hole that is Tensleep... all the routes were really, really fun, the guidebook is hilarious, there's plenty of shade and almost no climbers....

Really, the place has a lot of bolts but also a lot of unique features and routes on high quality rock.

I really liked it even in the middle of August. (Until my bivy sack got stolen.)

divad

Trad climber

wmass

Jul 15, 2009 - 08:15pm PT

I'll be there in late August, so I will look forward to your TR if you go before then. It's got bolts! I'm thinking climb to one shiny thingy and then the next shiny thingy. :)

Decko

Trad climber

Colorado

Jul 15, 2009 - 08:16pm PT

Ten Sleep rocks for climbing, partner and I, (wife) spent a week there a couple of years back......super fun, fun free camping....nothing really of a town or services, but loads of routes, no one around, great scenery......

Yea oh yea......if it were just a little closer.......

MisterE

Trad climber

One Step Beyond!

Jul 15, 2009 - 08:58pm PT

From Mountain project:

Porkchop_express

Trad climber

the base of the Shawangunk Ridge

Jul 15, 2009 - 09:33pm PT

If you have a 4x4 with high clearance, decent free camping can be had. IMHO the guidebook looks a lot better than it is; more emphasis was placed on pictures and flashy imagery than factual information/organization that could be helpful. The locals were pretty dour when we went through, but that could be because they are leery of folks who ain't white. Could have just been a bad hair day. Who knows.

My bias against Tensleep is largely personal- I can see going back there under alternative circumstances and loving it. The approaches are quite steep and it can be tough distinguishing some of the trails and features. My wife had recently broken her ankle and that pissed her off which made climbing together less fun. Also being diabetic, watching my car full of insulin get hotter than a convection oven in the sun, was an uncomfortable feeling.

Once you know your way around it would probably be better too. First time out can be pretty bewildering.

I liked wild iris better. I may be crucified for saying that, but so be it.

I have a few pics here of Ten Sleep.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stephen.richert/TenSleepWyoming#

charley

Trad climber

nw pa.

Jul 15, 2009 - 09:59pm PT

You mean you don't like the sport wall in boulder canyon.
smiley face.

cowpoke

climber

Jul 15, 2009 - 10:19pm PT

I think GOClimb was headed that way for July 4th weekend. Perhaps he'll share?

If you combine Ten Sleep with Lander (e.g., Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon), then be sure to stop along the way in the Yellowstone Drug Store in Shoshoni for a fabulous malt or milkshake...they have something like 60 flavors.

reddirt

climber

Elevation 285 ft

Jul 15, 2009 - 11:11pm PT

I too am looking fwd to your TR Crimpie!

Kinda OT but I was just checking out Aaron Huey's webpage the other day. Some pretty amazing (non-climbing) photography. Definitely might be enough to until you get out to Ten Sleep.

Domingo

Trad climber

El Portal, CA

Jul 16, 2009 - 12:24am PT

"If you have a 4x4 with high clearance, decent free camping can be had."

I have a 1993 Saturn SL2 (read: no clearance, two wheel POS car) and I was fine. Found great camping in Bighorn without trouble.

"The locals were pretty dour when we went through, but that could be because they are leery of folks who ain't white."

Oh yeah, there's that too. We went to a restaurant in the town of Ten Sleep where people at the bar were just casually talking about how the Jews are evil f*#ked up people as if it were normal, average dinnertime conversation. There was also a sign someone had written in Sharpie in the bathroom that said "Jews suck", which is less offensive and more just kind of weird. They might not be so smart around those parts.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 12:47am PT

Thanks for the input. I like limestone. And pockets. And steeper stuff. And for whatever reason I'm thinking a lot about this place. The pictures looks like it is such fun!

I'm also dreaming of Maple Canyon after reading about the Fish's recent trip there. :)

Now, just to carve the time out and we're going. But don't tell BrassNuts that there are bolts there. :)

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 16, 2009 - 03:25am PT

kind of like Shelf road on Steroids...

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

Jul 16, 2009 - 01:18pm PT

Let's see.

The rock is really good, sharp (bring tape for fingers) and mostly iin the 5.11 range.
Bring stiff, pointy shoes (tell Brassballs to bring his Synchos) or a new pair of Sportiva TC Pros.
There's no water out there in the free camping so bring lots of that. The camping is mostly on forest service sites, so it's primitive and free. The best sites are "improved" FS or BLM sites and come with tables and firepits but cost $$$$$.

It took us 7.5 hours to drive directly to Buffalo and then swing over to Ten Sleep.
The town of Ten Sleep has services and a funky western bar/restaurant with a great juke box and a good pool table. Since it can rain alot in the canyon you might seek shelter and distractions in this, the only bar in town.

There is lots of firewood to be gathered out there so no need to bring your own wood.

A 70meter rope works well for some of the newer and longer routes out there.
Mostly the runouts AREN'T and the climb ratings are comparable to Shelf Road.
My Honda Element made it into the campsites and on roads without a problem with clearance.

Have Fun.........BRING BUG JUICE!!!

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Jul 16, 2009 - 01:25pm PT

SPORT CLIMBING!!!! NOOOOOOOOOO!!! DON'T DO IT!

If you must.....do the following.

Clip a cam or wired nut or Lowe-Ball to each bolt with an extra biner then clip into that. It'll feel like you're in the high country. Kinda. And clip approach shoes to the back of your harness and wear a small pack on all routes. Duct tape your Nalgenes. Tape on crack mitts for all routes and bivy at the top of the last route of the day. Voila! Its an alpine trad weekend.

Jennie

Trad climber

Idaho Falls

Jul 16, 2009 - 03:27pm PT

Stemming on Beerbong, 5.10

klk

Trad climber

cali

Jul 16, 2009 - 03:36pm PT

""We went to a restaurant in the town of Ten Sleep where people at the bar were just casually talking about how the Jews are evil f*#ked up people as if it were normal . . .."

Nice.

Glad to see the place hasn't lost that authentic western flavor.

Kimber

climber

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:29pm PT

From time to time I look through some of these climbing forums. It never ceases to amaze me how inflammatory or simply false many comments are. The area rock in the canyon is pretty large. The variation in elevation is as well large, from the routes at the bottom on Lee creek to the top just below the ski area and thus so is the weather and temperature. The sport climbing has been bolted by people that are pretty dedicated to climbing and thus have bolted routs that span a wide range difficulty. Many of the approaches are steep however and those not inclined to walk to the rock won’t like it. There are several full time climbers in Tensleep and Worland that are somewhere in the canyon nearly every day. There is also a large gathering of climbers around the 4th of July. That weekend, the town closes highway 16 and has a huge party. It’s quite fun, it’s not normal but it’s fun. As for this comment: "The locals were pretty dour when we went through, but that could be because they are leery of folks who ain't white." I find that very insulting and completely un-true. At first they may seem leery of people from other places (you can understand why with comments like the above one) but they are some of the friendliest people around. Keep in mind only a bit over 300 people live in tensleep and almost all of them are transplants from somewhere other than Wyoming. There are 2 bars 3 restraints and even a soda fountain just to correct some of the other comments. All the restaurants have good food. The people that own the salon are from Chicago and the stage company has been restored to its former self by the current owners, the Huff’s of the history channel show Wild West Tech (this is the place to check on what live music is going on as well). If you want good quality information on the area, the museum by the park is the place to ask. The staff there has a lot of information and often times guide books of all types including climbing. (I think Aaron is currently having publisher problems however) Camping also ranges from a hotel room to the side of the road so it’s really up to you. If you want even more civilization Worland is only 24 miles away and it takes less time to drive between Tensleep and Worland then most people spend driving to work in the morning. If you get to know the local people well though most likely you will only camp once and have more than one place to stay the next time around.

hooblie

climber

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:47pm PT

i respect what you have to say kimber. it doesn't any real knack to identify and cultivate a cultural divide, and not too much more care to bridge one

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:53pm PT

You're right, it's not worth it. Stay safely wherever you are. You'll be okay.

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Aug 11, 2009 - 12:58am PT

Okay Jaybro- you called his bluff. More pics anyway! I passed through there with my family many years ago and thought it looked great. I'd love to climb there one of these days despite the flame that is inevitable on the forum.

Pics make the world go round, make a day at work a little better.