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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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John Bachar has been a constant in my life ever since Jimmy Dunn told me about the guy who was "...the world's best free climber...", back in about 1974. Meeting John in Eldo a couple years later and sharing a rope with him on a FFA, I experienced first hand the power of a mind/body/soul/spirit working in harmonic convergence. He took delight in his gifts, and poked a pretty stout finger at the chests of pretenders, but it wasn't about putting anybody down, really. It was more about being absolutely honest with yourself and others, and leading by example; creating your own funk and rythm outside of fashion and external influence.
Bachar inhabits a place in my personal pantheon of quintessential climbers alongside Lynn Hill, my cousin George, Alex Lowe, Catherine Destivelle and a few others whose very existence in the world empowered me to pursue my own quixotic alpine quest. But in the case of climbers, even gods can fall...and we all know this.
My heart goes out to Tyrus and all John's close family and friends.
I am absolutely devastated.
-Jeff
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Chinchen
climber
Flagstaff?
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Oh man. This hurts. Another legend gone.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Can someone post the pic of On the Lamb? That blew me away.
Watching him float a solo of Leave it to Beaver BITD is something I'll never forget; such grace.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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John was my beloved friend.
He was the next generation, and its star. He
treated me respectfully and as a friend.
We had bouldered already for years and
done climbs, when in 1975 we climbed New Dimensions
together. In his presence I simply climbed better.
He honestly told me he had never seen anyone
climb that final crux pitch so easily. But then I
had a rope, and he had soloed it, which was a bit
beyond my imagination. It was likely because he was
there to inspire me that I came back that day just
a little from a fast fade out of the limelight. John
had that special love for the real masters, such as Gill.
Because of the level he achieved, he could know them
in a way others could not. I will never forget when
John tried to free solo Clever Lever in Eldorado in
about 1977 and fell off. He dropped and rolling a long
way. He managed to get down out of the canyon and
literally crawl to the cabin where I lived then. While
nursing his many wounds, as he lay on the couch groaning,
Royal Robbins walked through the door. I finished the
doctoring and left a very worn out John and went to climb
with Royal... I loved climbing with him in Tuolumne.
Whenever I went to Yosemite he quickly found me, and we
climbed. On one Tuolumne route, Gray Ghost, he simply
floated upward, with no protection. He clearly had
mastered those golden knobs. I remember the bouldering
John and I did in Yosemite, long after I had faded from
my prime... I remember the joy I had conspiring
with him, talking, recalling stories... when I worked
on my history of free climbing. More recently I can
say I was especially honored when both he and I were
given lifetime achievement awards at the same festival
in Utah, I the oldtimer who had a brief day in the sun,
and he the true master of our generation, how we shared
that little stage and we told our tales to our
climbing comrades... This is too difficult.
Pat Ament
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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So damned tragic. All my best to his family, biological and otherwise.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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another tribe member lost. One of our leaders...
so sad.
Rest in peace, John.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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I just don't know what to say.
My stomach turns and my heart is heavy.
Sincere condolences to the world for its loss, especially his family and loved ones.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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My thoughts are with all of you, his life long friends, and his family, at this very sorrowful time.
John's contribution to climbing was so very large. I just recently got to meet him at the slide show he did in Oakland. Jaybro and I climbed with him in the gym that afternoon. Then he gave a wonderful reminiscence of his life in climbing, Coltrane blowing in the background. He thanked the audience for being interested, and he really meant it.
Shock and disbelief.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Wow, I didn't expect to hear this today. What a bummer!
Yesterday was so much fun on his 4th of You Lie thread and now gone! A true icon in the climbing world! Rest in Peace, John!
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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My deepest condolences to all who knew and loved John.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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And of course John and I had all those chess games,
and he kept improving. And he liked it when I started
the Camp 4 wire walking, and I showed him a few
things on the sax. I had played in a jazz band,
and he was trying to teach himself. He had an
interest pretty much in everything. One day
in Yosemite Lodge I was playing chess and looked
up to see some strange person gazing through
a window from outside. The darkly dressed figure
studied us seriously. The person wore dark glasses,
and suddenly those dark glasses blinked on with red
lights, and blinked off. Of course it was John, up to
his old tricks again. Any kind of joke, followed
by that silly smile...
Pat Ament
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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He was the man, one of my heros for the last 35 years. Nobody ever claimed that 10 grand and no one ever will. The Height of the Art. Peace be with you John, and with your family in this time of loss.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Bachar was amazing. So smooth you couldn't tell if it was 5.6 or 5.12. His soloing feats were unprecedented and remarkable. His style beyond reproach. His influence in the world of free climbing unmatched. Watching him climb was truly poetry in motion. For those of us in the ranks of mortal climbers, he was an inspiration of the highest order. RIP Johnny Rock...
Dave Vaughan
Edit: I always loved that picture of JB on "On The Lamb"... such an iconic image of the master of the granite planet.
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sad news indeed. Impossible to calculate the effect he had on climbing. My heartfelt condolences to family and friends.
-S
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Ever since I started climbing at age twelve, Bachar was one of those figures I guess I could call a childhood hero. Even as I grew up, the stories I heard and read about him left me in awe. No doubt, they still do and will for many years to come. Whenever someone who's had a profound impact leaves this world, I recall the words of Lao-tzu, "Empty mind of all thoughts. Let your heart be at peace. Watch the turmoil of beings, but contemplate their return. Each being returns to the common source. Returning to the source is serenity. Not realizing the source, one stumbles in confusion and sorrow. When one realizes... tolerance, detachment, dignity and kindheartedness arise. Practicing the way, you are ready for whatever life brings."
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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I read an article once in National Geographic about a rainforest culture that regularly climbed very high trees to gather bee's nests and other food items. I can't remember the name of the culture, but I did cut out a quote from one of their climbers that said "You fall when your life is over."
A friend of mine just sent me this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oIeK0YtclU of Bachar back in the day. Near the end of the clip he says "I'm going to climb for the rest of my life."
That's exactly what the Man did, and I'm sure he was at peace with it. I hope the rest of us are as lucky to make such a peace with ourselves in our lifetime.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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John has always been an inspiration to me, and a major factor in the style and ethics I choose to climb with today.
...and always will be.
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Conner
Social climber
on the road
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So very sad.... what a huge loss. My heartfelt condolences to John's family and friends.
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