Very bad free solo accident at Dike Wall

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Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 7, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
Off White is wise.
None can know.
We can only speculate.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jul 8, 2009 - 02:20am PT
Thumbs up to all you who rose to defend Blitzo's ownership of that image in the comments on the article dmalloy linked to. The Taco's a good clan.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
Lara Kirkner (the woman who wrote the article in the Examiner), has posted the following: "I am so sorry. I found the photo online and thought it was wonderful so I used it, but did not see any credit on the site where I found it. I will take the photo down and I apologize to Blitzo if you are reading this. Thank you all for letting me know."

I have the impression that the Mammoth Examiner is a small newspaper, or perhaps a local news website, and that it's the kind of town where the locals all know each other. Her having 'borrowed' Blitzo's photo is understandable in the circumstances.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
Once you post your own photos on the internet be prepared for this to happen.

I wouldn’t harang the girl too bad she did the right thing pulling it. The future could hold a better time for all the professional photographers here. Although I do know this time has a lot of meaning.

Peace to JB
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 8, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
Seems like they could have saved alot of time with a helicoptor evacuation. Do they have a heli-vac in Mammoth Lakes?
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Jul 8, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
I think it has to come from Reno.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 8, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
Helicopters are a crap shoot time wise out here. They must have thought they could do the evac faster by ground.

So the unofficial, but good, word is that Bachar fell off the 5.10 corner from higher than 40 feet. There were no signs of broken holds, and no signs of a slip, like scuffed or dirty shoes.

The examiner has the rest of the story pretty much.

I think the examiner is a internet network of papers, not a local thing. Lara actually writes for us sometimes and also the Sheet, another local newspaper. Don't beat her up too bad for using a photo from the internet. It's often hard to tell if something is public domain or not.

I'm not going to do another published story on the accident, but the info above is good for those that are interested in what happened.

klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 8, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
thanks for the update, tom.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 8, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
hey there mighty hiker, dmalloy, and all... say, maybe with blitzo's name there to be read by someone else in the comments, maybe he'll get a photo-shoot job for someone, on the rocks, and get some neat pay... ;)

sure would be nice...


extra note:
say, tom, i did not know john bachar, only from here, yet, i too am thanking you for the update, i got to know him just from his post here, but i really was sad from all this, as well....

G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Jul 8, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
We were hanging out with John at the Dike Wall on Friday. We talked about his shoulder and he was complaining that it started hurting on his second climb and then he quit climbing after 3 routes. He said it slowly gets weaker and eventually feels like his shoulder could just fall apart. Of course he still was climbing in perfect JB style.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 8, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
I second the chief, but add that we use the forest service and fish and game contract helicopters too.

The CHP, is first choice because being a state agency, they are already paid for and don't charge the county.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:53am PT
I appologize if I offended anyone with my last post in this time of tragedy and mourning. Let me rephrase my last:
I hope and pray that I meet John in heaven for I never had the chance to while he was living. The more reason to ask yourself, "If I died today, would I be with my Maker?"

In memory of John, I thought I would post some past emails he shared with me in the last two years, after his motor vehicle accident, regarding his Acopa shoes and his general health:


On Jul 6, 2007, at 11:14 AM, G M wrote:

John,

I spoke with you on rc.com a while back when gathering information for Mt. Woodson on rc.com's site and then you had your accident. How is everything? Where are you in your recovery? Climbing yet? Just saw your post in regards to Mike Strassman's death and thought about you.

Gary E. McCay
----------



-----Original Message

From: "John Bachar"
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 6:23 PM
To: "G M"
Subject: Re: wellness

Gary,

Thanks man - I really appreciate it. I'm climbing OK these days (11c to 12a sport). Don't have any power yet (bouldering) but I ain't complaining - just happy as hell to be on the rock again.

How's the Woodson project going? I'd be happy to help if I can - if I can remember that far back that is!

Anyway, hope you're strong and healthy and hope to see ya' at the crags sometime soon. Let me know if you ever get up to the East Side for some climbing action - let's go cragging baby!


Cheers,
John
---------




-----Original Message

From: "John Bachar"
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 3:34 AM
To: "illusiondweller"
Subject: Re: wellness

Cool. I remember now.


How's all that Woodson info coming together anyway?


I got a new injury now - I pulled my groin really bad the other day. Won't be climbing for a couple months at least.


Enjoy the shoes!


Talk soon, John
------------


On Jan 29, 2008, at 8:19 PM, illusiondweller wrote:

Your groin? John, were u climbing? Dang, that sounds uncomfortable! Out for a couple months? That had to have been a mental setback as well as the physical after having progressed since your car accident! Are u self treating?

Re: wellness‏
From: John Bachar (john@acopausa.com)
Sent: Tue 1/29/08 11:32 PM
To: illusiondweller (illusiondweller@hotmail.com)

Yeah, I jumped off a boulder problem and landed in a open legged squat position and felt a ripping sensation in my groin. I thought maybe it was a hernia so I went to the doctor. He said I pulled my adductor longus and pubic symphysis ligament. Man it really hurt bad for the first ten days. It's a little better now but I can tell it's gonna take a while to heal.


I think I'll go to physical therapy for a couple sessions to see what they do for this type of injury.


Anyway, I hope all's good on your end of things and those Spectres are working for you on those Woodson dimes!


Hopefully we'll go climbing this summer when I heal up!


Cheers, JohnRe: Spectres‏
From: John Bachar (john@acopausa.com)
Sent: Wed 4/02/08 9:45 AM
To: illusiondweller (illusiondweller@hotmail.com)

On Apr 1, 2008, at 11:57 PM, illusiondweller wrote: > What a great shoe the Spectres were up to the blow-out at the toe! > Thanks again for the deal and sharing your knowledge w me, it > really helps. P.S. How's the groin?

The adductor longus is better but I pulled some deeper stomach muscle too and that still feel a little weak and tender. I just started wearing a harness two weeks ago and still can't take a leader fall or belay someone who does take leader falls. I hope the shoe thing works out for you. I'll be in Josh Friday night for the reunion thing this weekend. Gimme a call if you're out there...

Cheers, John760-709-2054 cell
--------------------------





Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 9, 2009 - 10:08am PT
We're in heaven now, don't go dwelling in Illusions.
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Jul 9, 2009 - 10:29am PT
exactly
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 10:50am PT
http://www.latimes.com/news/obituaries/la-me-john-bachar8-2009jul08,0,7890954.story

Here's the L.A. Times obit - in the paper this morning. At the bottom of it there's also a link to a shorter news story from the 6th.

bootysatva

Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:17am PT
Yesterday while soloing the white maiden I felt that now that JB has left the body a vast wealth of talent has been unleashed on the planet. I felt blessed w/ a heightened precision and calm and acutely aware of what a blessing incarnation is. I wish more of us had Johns ethic- especially at my home crag were excessive bolting has left ego marks everywhere you look. John was the Coltrane of climbing. The Bach of style. I am greatfull for his example. Ernesto ale
WBraun

climber
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:21am PT
This guy responds with this:

"Every time one of these nuts bites it, I sometimes think - good riddance of another suicidal narcissist - other than the young children and spouses they often so cruelly abandon in their pursuit of their own shimmering reflection.

Free climbing must be the most idiotic of all human activities."


survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
Werner,

Whoa....where did that *sshole come from?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
That was one of the comments from the small story linked to at the bottom of the LA paper obit.

Obviously, he's not a golfer.

franky

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
Just shows you how far the average person is from feeling the peace of personal achievement in the face of real challenge and fear.
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