Anyone climbed Mary's Tears lately?

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tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
I'm planning to do Mary's Tears to NEBoHC next week.

Anyone done it lately?

Specifically, I'm wondering about the 5.11a 3rd pitch which Reid's guide calls "5.10a seasonally wet" on one section and "dirt" on another. Is is still wet and dirty? Have the years of traffic since then cleaned out the dirt? Is the 5.11a variation the better way to go on that pitch?

Here's a link to the topo for reference:

http://books.google.com/books?id=DZrIW7zuPC4C&pg=PA274


Thanks!
-Tad

[edited to shorten url]
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 20, 2009 - 12:19am PT
Bump.
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Jun 20, 2009 - 10:08am PT
I've never done Mary's Tears, but it doesn't seem like anyone else is offering up info yet. The hearsay is that Lucho and Rob cleaned it up quite a bit while doing Gemini...and some friends of mine climbed it about a month ago, so I'm sure its good to go.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jun 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
report back after you do it. I have wanted to do that route for quite a while but its a tough one to find info on. Looks awesome though.
lucho

Gym climber
San Franpsycho
Jun 20, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
The 3rd pitch should be fine. There may be a grassy section but thats just the nature of the pitch. The best climbing on the route I feel. Also the start pitches are kinda hard we always took the right most "5.8" variation.
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
Great guys, thanks for the info. If all works out with my partner, I should be able to report back late next week about the state of the climb.

-Tad
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
I don't remember the third being dirty.

The first and fourth hard pitches can be "bypassed" by following a direct line.
(While heading for the Crucifix I felt no need to detour left on pitch 1 and right on pitch 4 for harder climbing)

Both those easier pitches (1&4) are a little gravelly.

This is of course as of 1983 & 1987.

Second and third pitch:





dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Jun 20, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Way to dribble out the photos Roy.What else you hiding from us?Why did I think Marys tears was slab?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 20, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Dick!!!
What's Happen'n ?

I am hiding my PP.
But, if you missed it, Cybbie apparently (I missed it) posted a picture of "E's" junk recently (then she took it down).
Just ask Russ: no kidding.
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Jun 20, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
Uh, I'm lost
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 20, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
Mary's Tears is a slab.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jun 20, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
I would probably shed a tear right along with mary if I had to witness a picture of E's junk. YIKES
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