South Pillar of Nuptse

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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic

Erik of Oakland

Gym climber

Oakland

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2009 - 12:41am PT

jello tried this twice, including a dead-of-winter attempt, I believe. Anyone familiar with the story?

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Jun 16, 2009 - 11:12am PT

good question.

story time?

Peter Arbic

climber

Sep 30, 2017 - 02:10am PT

HAHAHA ..A true alpine ascent to finish of "pillar" was completed sans summit (ridge) in 1989. Russians used how much fixed rope ? added 200 meters of unclimbed terrain... .Justifying bad style is one thing, claiming this is alpine style is just
plain lying.

Trad climber

Calgary

Sep 30, 2017 - 07:49am PT

"Kiss or Kill" by Mark Twight, in Climbing magazine many years back. Other people tried the pillar as well.
What happened when you went there Peter?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 30, 2017 - 09:12am PT

Here you go...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/963476/Kiss-Or-Kill-MTwight-J-Lowe-Kangtega-and-Nuptse-SE-Spur-1986

Child of the Abyss

climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 1, 2017 - 01:42am PT

I'm pretty sure that Peter Arbic's attempt was the strongest attempt on the route thus far, and the highest anyone got in alpine style.

I'm not sure if Lowe tried it in winter, but Babanov definitely did, on one of his siege-style attempts.

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Oct 1, 2017 - 04:15pm PT

hey there say, erik of oakland... and to those that bumped this up...

very interting... hope to see more about this...

also-- a happy 'jello' note, to see this...

Peter Arbic

climber

Oct 19, 2017 - 01:04am PT

Hey Al Pickle ...reached the glacier at the top of the "pillar" in 7? days with Jim E, Erico Rosso, and Kurt Walde . Three days climbing past Jello and Dr Doom's high point but still not the tippy top.
Frozen toed and out of food, the Italians figured that was close enough a la Moonflower and decided to bail with one of our two ropes and the next day I dragged big J up to the bottom of the final rock band with the other. A good hard look at my companion and a scope of what lay between us and the "summit" convinced me that getting down alive was going to be enough of a miracle .....we descended the Bonnington route with 2 more bivys.