Woodfords: The best crack climing in Tahoe, Hands down T'rad

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 60 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 17, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
Have fun up there on Thursday! I gotta work, for once.... (Hitting Yosemite for the weekend, so I can't really complain).

Here's an overlay map with just a few of the crags marked (I could mark The Fortress if I was a little more sure which one it is; there are higher resolution aerial photos, too):

It's so much easier to make maps to scale these days, using google maps/satellite photos.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2009 - 10:09am PT
Heh Clint that overlay map that you posted was cool. Thanks for the feed-back. Have a good weekend.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
Suicide falls!?! how did i never hear about that. woodfords is the crag that keeps on givin. and sweet map by the way.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 18, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
Yeah, AlDude. Hillside Strangler was fun. Momma Cat was fun. The stuff on the north side of the road is choss and this is not Tahoe!
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
if all you found on the north side was choss then you didn't hike far enough or in the right direction. give it another try and you'll be pleasantly suprised. a guidebook isn't being make for a hill of choss.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jun 18, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
choss. plus, totally invalid without pics. just sayin'.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
check out "woodfords crack climbing mecca is lonely" and "The Leap, South Lake, etc. etc..... Will the snow ever melt?" there are a few picks of the north side in each of these. its at least worthy information to make a judgement off of. I'm also wondering what the best defenition of choss is. is it a place where people shouldn't climb? or where the rock falls to pieces? Check out the bolts still sticking to boulders below Mayhem Cove. That place actually fell apart long after the climbs were established and people still love to climb there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 18, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
Here's a photo from rockclimbing.com, of The Perfect Lieback 5.8 ***, on The Fortress (north side of canyon):


Looks like good rock to me.

Another photo of The Perfect Lieback, from mountainproject.com:


Petch's video, climbing Pump Factory 5.11+ fingers to fist:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRh4BrllnFU

"lonely":
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=875661

some routes:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahoe_vicinity/woodfords_canyon/106359636
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 18, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
Blue Blocker? Where is that guy?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jun 19, 2009 - 01:24am PT
Yes the place is a choss pile please dont come up here!!!! (sarcasm intended)
Sun Wall in winter.

Thanks for all the positive posts about the area Clint. Have been working the area with Chim-Chim for 4 years and have a deep appreciation for the area and the history. Its a place not for the faint of heart. Its not greased granite from thousands of ascents and that makes it a hell of a lot more interesting and challenging for those who want it.
We just want to share what we feel is a fun area that may be of interest to some people. If not, move on and keep the post a positive one.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2009 - 12:29pm PT
thanks for the list Clint since the printing of the East Side guide by Ron Anderson over 100 new routes have been established. Ninety percent are 2 stars or better by your rating system. A newly established moderate area exists dierctly above the crystal springs parking area. A small east-facing alcove can be approached in just 5 minutes. Walk up the sandy bank and follow a switch-back trail up the fragile slope. The alcove sit behind two large pine trees. The corner on the left is a fun 5.9 with tricky protection at the finish, The splitter to its right is an excellent 5.9 with some pesky vegetation that is slowly deteriorating. The corner to the right of the obvious arete is a nice 5.8. These climb were cleaned and climbed in the fall of 2008. They are new, so bring a brush. The widening crack above the chain anchor has a hidden anchor on top and to the right.
The crystal springs are now has over 40 pitches of climbing.(1) 5.8's (3) 5.9,s over 20 5.10s (5) 5.11's (5) 5.12,s (3) Three pitch climbs and a tyrolean traverse oppurtunity.

This place is stellar! and new routes are being established every week. The Guide book is finished but not compiled with topos and pictures as of yet. I'm not sure how to get the info.out. Does any one know how to do it?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 19, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
Chim-Chim,

The new moderate area above the Crystal Springs parking area sounds cool.

In terms of getting the info out, the best way I know is to put it on a web page. That way, you do not have to shell out $$ to have it printed, store the books somewhere, and deal with the hassles of distributing the books. Plus you can update it anytime without obsoleting the inventory of books you printed.

You can enter routes, photos and topos on sites like mountainproject.com and rockclimbing.com, but it is a slow process. It's still worth doing on those sites for at least a few of the best routes, though.

The fastest way for me is to maintain my own web page. Instead of entering each route by hand, I have a "master list" which includes FA info and links to topos/photos. I have a small program on my PC which renumbers the routes (after I've inserted some new ones) and generates the .HTM and .XLS files from this master list, and I just upload the .HTM and .XLS files to the web page to update it.

Here is what the first part of the master file for Woodfords looks like:
---------

South Side

Storm Trooper Buttress (park near W intersection of 88 and Crystal Springs)

1. Leper Face 5.10a *, knobby face, N face, tie off knobs, 45'
FA(free solo): DO, 85
2. Sergeant D 5.9+ *, RFC, W face, pro to 3"
FA: DO, 84
3. Storm Troopers of Death 5.12b ***, right diagonal crack, 5 fps, pro to 2.5"
FA: DO, 84
4. Speak English 5.10a/b TR, RFC to 2x anchor
5. Or Die 5.10a TR, knobby face to same anchor

Strangler Cliffs

6. Nevada/Utah Border 5.9/5.10 **,.h hands/fingers, W face
FA: DO, 85
7. Strangle Hold 5.12a ***,.t thin RFC, NW face, pro to 1.5", 80'
FA: BP, 80
8. Hill Side Strangler 5.11b **,.t thin, NW face, pro to 1.", 80'
FA: BP, 80

Woodcutters Wall (50-60', 450' R of Strangler Cliff, NW face)

9. Left Branch 5.10a **, on L end, pro to 2.75"
FA: SV, BG, 85
10. Right Branch 5.8 *, pro to 2.75"
FA: SV, BG, 85
---------


Since it's a text file, it's pretty easy to add routes and change things. I'd be happy to update this to add the 100+ new routes, if you want.

I'd be happy to host any material you have on my little web page - could be a .PDF file, .DOC, .TXT, .HTM, whatever. Also maps, topos and photos. You can just email me stuff and I'll put it on there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 19, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
Here are a couple of aerial photos from google maps of the crags near the Crystal Springs parking area:


medium resolution, with my guesses (hopefully correct) for the crag locations


highest resolution from google maps. I left my guesses out. You can save this to your PC, open in Paint, save to .BMP, and draw lines/text on it.

Aerial photos may not be ideal, because some things are obscured, but you can trace over them to create a black/white map to scale, which can be nice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 19, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
in the BRB vein, yeah, it's all choss don't come.

......Nice work, guys.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 11:52am PT
Thanks for the positive feedback. I looking for more moderate routes to clean, unfortunately just as in yosemite the easiest cracks tend to be wide, loose and dirty. But we recently installed an anchor on a 5.8 finger crack up and to the west of High energy Wall, across the gully It was first led by Sunshine Hebert about three years ago. A rotting natural anchor provided the top-rope anchor. Bruce D. re-led the climb and placed a stainless steel fixe wedge-bolt anchor. A fifty-foot classic in your face 5.8 finger crack. We brushed it again but its still dirty. D.K.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 20, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
whoa! Where's sunshine these days?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
Caughtinside Sunshine is raft-guiding in B.C. this summer. She's doing great. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jun 20, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
Chim-Chim,

Does this half-pitch Tombstone Terror-like layout ring a bell?



It's completely vertical. It's right next to this:



A 5.6 crack to stem. Someone was asking earlier about 5.6-5.8 potential. Too many to count! They just haven't gotten any attention.

We didn't balance "the pointer" at the top like that. But I did sit on it dangling over 25 feet of air. Exhilarating!


It's up in here on the way to our destination:




Just a taste!

Sure wish I could see the place 100 years from now. I think it's going to evolve at a frenzy!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 20, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
I'm glad I won't see the place in a hundred years... and am very happy to have experienced it 30 years ago...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2009 - 10:48am PT
Footloose, nice pictures? Are those pictures from crystal springs? I saw the picture of the stepple A.k.a Aquliia de dread.
Did you climb up there what did you do? Three friends are up at High Energy Wall today. Were going up on Monday or Tuesday, maybe both give shout if your interestded in coming along.
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