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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Wallacha
climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Just a heads up that the bolts on the Dream On slab are in dire condition. About a month ago I did a new link up of Insomnia and Dream On (well, I'm fairly certain it's new as I only know of two people to have even done Insomnia.... sorry if I'm mistaken), and had to back up the bolts from the anchor with two twenty foot pieces of cordelette (the draws were clipped through the hanger and the cordellete, which ran to the anchor). In any case, it's great climbing, but the rust on the nuts was so bad that we were able to peal off sizable parts from them with our fingers... not comforting.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 29, 2009 - 03:16am PT
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Replace 'em Davey boy
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Steve
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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May 29, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
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you buy the bolts - i'll put em in!?
[this is not steve - this is drunkenmaster (log in error)]
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WBraun
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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Man you're cheap ....
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 29, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Looks like Summit has it covered...
We talked about replacing those in 2001 - they looked pretty funky back then!
Slightly off topic: Does anyone know of an ascent of Sturgeon since the crux undercling came off?
Please advise.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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May 29, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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cheap - the beach hardware is expensive as sh#t. can you say; titanium
sometimes being cheap is good - like with opinions
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Wallacha
climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2009 - 04:16am PT
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Yeah man, I could certainly use help putting those bad boys in. Send me an email with info on what exactly you recommend getting and where to get it, etc (perhaps glue-ins would be best??).
As for Sturgeon, I haven't been on it, so I have no info to offer.... sorry.
Oh, and Drunkenmaster; this is Dave. Andy is still in England!! Hopefully be seeing you soon.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 30, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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Dave, titanium glue ins are the way to go. I have all you need with the exception of the industrial epoxy. I forget exactly which product we used on the other routes down there. Calling HK? I'd be willing to donate the bolts and loan the gear needed if you do the work. If interested shoot me an email.
Ken Ariza
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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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