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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 15, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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the troller--
many many good memories.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 15, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Ed - I was expecting a story of how you went to Canada and physically dominated, laying waste the land and the rock...
But this will do!! LOL
Cool TR...
Thanks for the pics...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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This thread has it all. Climbing at Squamish. SuperTopo mini-fest. Variety. Sunshine. Trolls (several species). Crazy Canucks. No sushi, though it's readily available here.
The Wide Fetish gang should note that there is an unusual concentration of offwidths at the Cirque of the Uncrackables. March of the Kitchen Utensils (5.9). Scimitar Left (5.11a). Scimitar Right (5.10b). Bop til You Drop (5.10b). Boogie til You Puke (5.11b). Big Mouth (5.11b). Hidden Oomph (5.10a). Though all require an energetic walk, and so may be out of range for some.
Others of the harder Squamish offwidths: Pipeline (5.10c), Hypertension (5.11a), Split Beaver (5.10b), Tantalus Crack (5.10b), Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side (5.10b?) and so on.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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This thread does have it all !
I'd love to get to Vancouver, perhaps with Ed, maybe to seek audience with The Tami ... and climb sure.
But does this thread have :
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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Tarbuster, I didn't mention marmalade because there was this piece of paper I had to fill out on the way back... but I did seem to have something much like what you show when I unpacked my kit. Debbie was very excited...
...and we should make a time to go up there together, definitely... that would be wild fun!
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MH2
climber
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May 16, 2009 - 03:28am PT
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Ed is an interesting person on many levels. He got up some good climbs at Squamish.
Mighty Hiker’s coordinating efforts are much appreciated.
Unaccountably, I did not take many pictures of the visit. Some may recognize this:
Of course it rained. A little.
But Squamish also tried to look pretty for Ed. From the highway:
Ed, Brock, and Mighty Hiker are out of sight up around the right of the Chief (backside).
A cloud is sneaking up on them.
Mighty Hiker’s grades for offwidths are not to be trusted.
The guide makes the same mistakes.
Off-widthers will know not to trust ratings.
Another wide monstrosity, mentioned elsewhere by climbingdropout, the not-too-often climbed Public Image (~center):
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 16, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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Excellent trip to a place that’s been on my list for decades. Thanks for the inspiration, Ed.
Good to see Anders back in his native habitat, after finally meeting him in Joshua Tree. I propose a toast to “moderate athletic achievements!”
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 16, 2009 - 11:40am PT
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Awesome, Ed! Good May weather too! Nice to see you kept your priorities in line up there.
I'm looking forward to seeing you back down here. I scoped our 5.4 proj. last weekend. Looks great. Don't know how to get there. ;-)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 16, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
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If the customs people are snoopy about marmelade, it's usual to simply say that it's for medicinal purposes. Which in Roy's case may have some truth - he seems to have tried darn near everything else. Though customs are usually only interested in fresh fruit, not the processed kind. This year's batch was made with some of the famous jstan oranges, and hopefully his trees have survived the recent fire.
On our first day's outing, we were guided by Cairns. The second, by what are apparently known in some U.S. regional dialects as "ducks". Lord love a duck, but Ed says that Americans have trouble with dipthongs. Very odd - we call them cairns, a fine old English word, and up north they're called inukshuks, an equivalent Inuit word. In Norway, they're called "varder", which has the same root as the English "ward" - it means something that marks a route, but with connotations of protection and warning.
But then, I once ran into some people from the U.S. south who kept referring to "shivs", which in context had no meaning. It turns out they meant "sheaves", or in English pulleys. I believe that "sheave" means a side plate of a pulley, not the whole thing.
Hopefully we'll see more SuperTopo visitors up here this year.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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Andy got a picture of my little martian cyclops friend... I'll post up some stuff from its memory dump soon. But it is a beautiful day here...
Also, the cairns thing, which I had noticed also, Anders, that we were guided by the same on both days... when you say "diphthong" to some from the US, it evokes quite different images... ask locker...
in pursuing this line of thought we learn about "Canadian English allophony," where does that take us, eh?
Melissa, yes on the project.. I think the approach is the obvious one, though the details are all important... we need to figure out a date. My schedule is getting a bit more flexible with a bit of lead time...
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 16, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
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Whoop Whoop! Go Ed. (I swear that guy never actually works... Oh Going to a conference... what, there are rocks there too!)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 16, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Ed admitted that he got on the organizing committee for the conference, to ensure that he would "have" to attend, whatever last minute crises they came up with at work. Pretty clever tactic. He did well with the weather - it can be fairly unstable at this time of year.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
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I didn't have a way of getting on the committee, they chose me, but hey, when you have lemons, make lemonade. PAC11 is in New York City, I wonder if I'll be on the committee again... sounds like a 'Gunks squeeze trip to me...
and Dirka, I don't actually know why they pay me either...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
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Here's to "moderate athletic achievements" (Rick A) & "having to attend" (Hartouni via Anders)
And MH2 & this ??? Beauty !!! ...
Of course it's a Public Image.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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effing Trolls...
at least i got to put
pipeline
&
public image
on the list.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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no one liked the video?
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MH2
climber
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May 18, 2009 - 03:06am PT
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I liked it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 18, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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Thanks, Ed! I couldn't get it to work on my admittedly three year and no longer state of the art computer. I was able to look at stills from the video, but even after giving it several minutes to download, no movement.
It should be "Little Smoke Bluffs", although it's possible that Canadian pronunciation led you to think there's a "y" in there.
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