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GDavis
Trad climber
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May 13, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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What???? damn
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Darn, Tommy beat me to it again.
I totaly had this one... Really... ;)
Nice work Tommy
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooo!
I want to nail that sh#t up, no free climbing til I've done it.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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May 13, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
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Yeah tommy is not only a great climber but he is a great guy too... I do hope however that this project doesn't turn into a bolt fest... but others seem to do a lot more of this kind of bolting than he does... What was done on the Dihedral was not good... BTW it was done by earlier parties not TC... Good luck Tommy you are the man!!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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May 13, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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Wow...nice photos and wild looking climbing.
what was this wall first called? the End All Wall...
seems a fitting name... now
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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May 13, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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There's a short video clip on one of those recent flicks showing him working on that corner pitch. They just label it "project", but I'm 99% that it's that pitch. It's either on Dosage IV or the bonus footage Tommy Big Wall thing on one of those Mortimer films.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 13, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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wow!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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May 13, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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when a bad-ass like Chris Mac talks about a another bad-ass like that, you know something is up...
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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May 13, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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Everything at that level is somewhat incomprehensible. But as I vividly remember my silent weeping in 1994 over the bend and spaced out rivets on p. 15 - my mind boggles.
I cut the Caldwell photos out as comparison with shots from this my first Valley route:
Caldwell on p6(?):
Me on p6:
Caldwell clipping before dynoing on p15(?):
Me hanging deadstill - and crying - on p15:
Looking forward to the film!
Michael
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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May 13, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
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string cheese burritos- that's just wrong!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 13, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Has he actually sent the route? Or is this preliminary hype? If he hasn't done the route free it seems a little early to advertise it....
I was told he added a bunch of bolts to unreapeted A5 pitches on Adrift.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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May 13, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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A5 pitches on adrift (snicker)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 13, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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Amazing!
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dirhk
Trad climber
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May 13, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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TC should be able to add bolts to whatever he wants because free climbing is so way more bad ass than aid climbing. Aid climbers complaining about the added bolts is like puny white kids calling pro boxers weak because they use gloves.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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May 13, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Dirhk... anywhere they want? Every 5 ft and next to usable cracks? I know what you are saying bro... but that it can be way over done was my point... However I have great regard for TC and know he will keep it limited to the minimum.
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dirhk
Trad climber
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May 13, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
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Everywhere HE wants. Which I doubt is feet from good pro.
Cheers
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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May 13, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
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"Thumb undercling."
Now how many of us are going to be seeing little nubbins next time we go out and think "Hell, if it works for TC, maybe it'll work forrr-orrr--rrrrr meeeeeeeee......(whip)."
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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May 13, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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you can not bullshit physics, but some special types seem to do so.
frequently.
Oh, and did he not produce the El Cap article in that badass Alpine aneversary edition?
Full props there also.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 13, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
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That's pretty damn incredible......
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 13, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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I think if Tommy places a bolt, its his privledge. Free climbing Mescalito, unreal!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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May 13, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Me, Impressed.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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May 13, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Sweet! A new excuse for me not to climb Mescalito... I don't wanna beat out the free version!!! Unreal photos.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 13, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
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Pretty wild!
The blog/article doesn't give much info. Anyone know how much of the aid he has freed at this point?
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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May 13, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
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Happiegirl that is hillarious!!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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May 13, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
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Aid he has freed at this point? What?
P1 a4, P2 a3, P3 a3, P4 a3, and so on,The f*#king thing is all ad! when I did it. Oh, sorry I remember a 5.9 crack in there somewhere and a 5.11 weird flare if I recall. come on! The kid is amazing. if he got passed pitch 6 clean he's a God. What the f*#k do I know? I jugged most of the way and Hauled.
Bruce.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 14, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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Keep in mind he's prolly only actually climbing some of the pitches on Mescalito, mixed with pitches from other routes and likely new variation pitches.
Not to say it's any less baddass, but it's probly more acurate to say Caldwell projects the Dawn Wall.
Maybe Chris can let us know how much of the route is acually on Mesc.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 14, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Wow! I did some climbing with his father, Mike, in my undergrad days at Berkeley. One of our friends joked about getting up Mescalito by training a herd of lizards and attaching them to a Dolt Cart. What Tommy's done seems no less incredible.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 14, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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Bruce - I thought it was a good question. I did the thing all aid in Oct. 2000, remember it well and am simply curious which pitches have gone free.
Tommy says himself in the blog there that it could be a ten year project for him.
I remember after finishing, saying something to the effect that it would probably not get freed anytime soon. I hope Caldwell makes me eat my words...
I did some climbing with his Dad Mike back mid 80's. Estes Park and Josh. Great Guy.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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May 14, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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I grew up with Tommy in Estes. Not to say I know him well, but I'm two years older than him, the town had 5k people in it growing up...and we both climbed. Small subset of population.
I remember he had (and I have no reason to disbelieve) climbed every 5.12 on Lumpy Ridge before he was 12. This is not a ticklist full of campus moves.
Whether or not a freeclimber can put bolts wherever they need to to protect a freeclimb is one issue.
Tommy's need, and want to is totally another. Dude is a sender.
Respect the best in action. Give him some credit.
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apogee
climber
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May 14, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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Unreal. Tommy is in a small class of climbers who exude integrity, style, and human-ness all in one seemingly physically inhuman package.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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May 14, 2009 - 02:38am PT
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He seems like the kind of guy who is climbing on el cap because he wouldn't be anywhere else. He doesn't need to guarantee an ascent with excessive bolting. He's done literally everything there is to do. From the writing it seems that he's just stoked to have something to work on, and isn't so focused on moving on to something else. Couple that with a (hot) loving wife and a house in Yosemite and maybe, just maybe, Tommy has found the key to happiness...
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Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
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May 14, 2009 - 06:51am PT
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Awesome to hear about the news! Tommy, good luck with the project! You have my vote to place bolts whereever YOU feel they are needed to make the free climbing sane. TC is the biggest inspiration to my climbing. I still can't get over the "Two in a day" that Tommy did (video on Dosage 4). That was mindblowing! Magic mushroom sounded way more intense and now this! Amazing! Can't wait for the video!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 09:57am PT
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There is probably no one more qualified for this truly modern and creative project in the world, I am thinking. And agreed, the guy is so nice and the best example there may have ever been of a great climber. (Oh, and what a hideous place to be projecting 5.14 and above).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 14, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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And Tommy is a really great guy- a little reserved, but friendly: someone who never blows his own horn. Given that- he'll probably never post on the Taco.
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PhotogEC
climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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OT from the original post, but National Geographic did a brief bit on Tommy and Midnight Lightning in C4.
Definitely check out the "See the Synth" link at the top of the page. Really cool zooms for detailed closeups of the Columbia boulder.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 14, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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If Chris Mac says Tommy is taking repeated huge falls on Mescalito, it think that shows he isn't adding unnecessary bolts. (perhaps he's not even adding necessary ones!)
Kudos Tommy, you the (super) man!
Peace
Karl
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Tommy crushing Ruby's Cafe:
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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May 14, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Amazing!
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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May 14, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Tommy is a freak of nature mutant. Amazing stuff.
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