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Messages 1 - 22 of total 22 in this topic |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool video.
I don't know the answer on the styles of previous ascents.
First ground up ascent of the climb in 20+ years, apparently.
According to
http://status.accessfund.org/
under New York / Gunks / More :
Gunks - Bonticou/Cybernetic Wall : Closed.
Did this just change? Maybe it is part of the explanation for the long time between such ascents.
[Edit: see reply below - Cybernetic Wall is not closed. The A.I. Wall with Running Man is the crag which is closed.]
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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great footage, looks like a great climb.
WTF?!! is with the song? now i'm pissed and i don't know why.
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dustonian
climber
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Huh, is that thing "open"?? Or at least chill enough to climb? Last I heard, people we're getting escorted off the property at gunpoint and there was something about surveillance cams set up around the crag..... too bad, all the cool little crags on private property... that's the problem with the Gunks!!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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You would think they would have called it a headpoint if they tred it to deaTH first.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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the video shows him whipping on gear...obviously thats not conclusive proof, but it would suggest (to me) that it wasn't rehearsed on TR.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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It wasn't a headpoint, the video seems to imply he lowered and pulled the rope each time.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 10, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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Video only shows you what you see. Could hAVE TR it for years before getting the bug to lead it. Not that there is anything wrong with thaT.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 11, 2009 - 07:06am PT
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Good, That is fun looking climb. wasen't dissing him. Just pointing out that Video can be edited to show anything you want it to.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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May 11, 2009 - 08:45am PT
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Tradman, I didn't know that liquid sky was yours. Cool
-meclimber
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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May 11, 2009 - 09:04am PT
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Thanks for the link.
Brian is STRONG, and I am psyched to see him sending this.
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bassforyourface
climber
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May 11, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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I just wanted to make this perfectly clear. Cybernetic Walls is not closed. The access fund received the wrong info. The wall they meant is the A.I. wall with Running Man on it. Brian sent Cybernetic Wall ground up without any TR practice. He spent 1.5 days on it. He pulled the rope on every fall and lowered off the top and pulled the pieces prior to send. I did the best i could with the video footage I had. There will be a full write up on it soon. Thank you http://bassforyourface.com
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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May 11, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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That's a cool area with a good winter climbing area up and left. Good 5.10 around the corner to the right. I almost bought property down below that section of cliff ten years ago; I bought somewhere else in the vicinity of the Trapps.
That's a solid ascent. To get below that wall and look up hyperextends my neck. I've always looked at that seam as a good copperhead pitch :)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 11, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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"Brian sent Cybernetic Wall ground up without any TR practice. He spent 1.5 days on it. He pulled the rope on every fall and lowered off the top and pulled the pieces prior to send.
At this level of difficulty, it would be impossible to demand more "purity" than that. Congratulations to Brian.
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Sep 12, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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If it is private then he should take down the video, it does not help, especially when he makes it look dangerous.
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Nov 27, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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It this the same Todd Ritter who quit climbing and took up dirt bike?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 13, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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BUMP FOR TO STIR IT UP BUMP BUMP
SO tonight on post em up throw backs I hear that renaming is a foot??
what the PHOOK
What else has a new name and is there a new guidebook withthe 'new' names of long standing (everything under .13D is classic and was set in stone )Climbs??
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 13, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
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OKAY THEN THIS IS A STORY THAT NEEDS TO BE TOLD.
THE ROUTE CYBERNETIC WALL WAS AIDED WITHOUT PINS OR A HAMMER BY KEITH UHL>
STANLEY WOULD NOT GIVE HIM A BELAY. (think he took keith's hammer away?)
AS HE KNEW THAT MANY WOULD NOT APPROVE OF A FREE ROUTE BEING AIDED.
OUT RIGHT VIOLATION OF THE RULES .
KEITH WAS CAREFUL AND SENT IT ON HOOKS HE SWORE HE DID NO DAMAGE.
BUT STILL
THIS ALL HAPPENED 5 YEARS(?) AFTER THE FA.
SO THAT IS WHAT THE TALENTED B.KIM SENT.
WOW I HAVE MISSED ALOT..... TALK ABOUT LATE TO A PARTY ....
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Nov 13, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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The story as I remember.....
Note the comments in the video said the left version was love muscle. Not true, lm was Scottie's rename of Cybernetic, I belive lanman might of done the 1st of the left version, that's what he said when he sent it, I belayed him on it. We knew it as. Cybernetic left. Dave felt it was a consolation prize after not getting cybernetic, I held a lot of whippers. Munson should get some credit for finding, envisioning and naming it.
The land behind triple right was owned by a pair of brothers. One was one of the original LSD testers for the gov. The other blew up his ex wife's husbands pickup truck, when the guy came to the door, he shot him. A few days later he was found by the cops, opened fire and was killed. I was the law at minnewaska at the time and was part of the search for the guys red vw rabbit, the troopers thought it might be rigged to blow up.
The area was part of my masters degree thesis.
Todd
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Al D
Sport climber
NYC NY
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Jan 24, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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So I have some great history and memories of the cybernetic wall.
It is on Mohonk property, so there are no trespassing issues at all.
As far as anyone knows, Jim Munson did "find" it and he named it. We are talking about late 70's or early 80's.
He told myself, Scott Franklin and Jordan Mills about the route. A few other folks knew about it as well. Jim "bwana" Damon and Felix Mundugano had tried it a little bit. We started to work on the route in full yoyo style in probably 1984 or 85 when we where climbing only 5.11 or so. The 1st 15 feet is probably V7 or V8 and gave us quite a time, but we all eventually started to wire the bottom.
The middle section is probably 5.11 and has never given anyone an issue.
Not sure when, but we definitely started "dogging" on TR the crux at 2/3rd height, and it stopped us probably for a year or 2. We tried everything, and then eventually Scotty unlocked the sequence, and I was belaying him when he TR'ed the route. We had no idea how hard the route was, but we knew it was harder then any other of the 13's we started to do in the gunks ( survival, Clairvoyance, etc). Scott F redpointed the route, a short time after. All gear went in on the lead, but we left it there after it was in, for all attempts after. Actually the pro on that route is very basic, and that isnt really an issue ay all.
Fast forward to 1988, and Jerry Moffatt came to town, with his sights set on repeating it. I has somewhat given up on the route at that point, but hanging with Jerry was very motivating to me, and I started to work it again as well. Jerry Redpointed the route after 2 days of work. I TR'ed it about a week later and then RP'ed it soon after as well.
I'm not totally clear on the love muscle variation to the left, but in my Mind Scott F did the FA of that as well. No gimme as it checked in at a solid 13A.
22 years later and Brian Kim sends the route. Many, many strong climbers in between had attempted the route, and all told me it was one of the stoutest 13d's they had ever been on. These were all very accomplished 5.14 climbers.
The crux of that route is still 1 of the stoutest boulder problems I have ever done, and I have done a lot of bouldering in my years. It definitely makes the bottom BP seem like a piece of cake.
Great looking route-it begs anyone who looks up at it to climb it. Hard for any video or picture to really capture the steepness and beauty of the climb.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Jan 25, 2015 - 12:35am PT
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A post from Al Diamond. Very cool. I don't post enough here to extend a proper welcome to a newcomer, but welcome Al. Your presence here will only enrich the legend of Supertopo.
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