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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 15, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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so.... whats the deal??? I've never been able to find any info in this besides the couloirs. One of the most striking aretes I've ever seen!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
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bump...
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Definitely an amazing feature. Also curious...but don't have any info either...
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Gene
climber
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Apr 15, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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No info for you, but I've always thought that Checkered Demon is such a great name for that peak.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Rustys Saloon
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Apr 15, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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yes, looks like a nice line
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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gd isnt that what we were gawkin at descending humphreys?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Apr 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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WOW!~! Crazy looking rocks
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Apr 15, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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Bump for cool peak with mystery arete.
Born and raised in the Sierras and always wondered if is goes.....or has went.....or....done gone....you know what I mean.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 15, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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The descent from Humphries is about as close as I have been to it, and it does look climbable and rather unique. The actual arete isn't terribly steep, but it winders around some cavernous looking overhanging stuff. I also suspect that some of the rock is very soft and funky, maybe marble or some OOP carbonate remnant. I don't think that particular swath is granitic. It would be interesting if someone would go up and give it a lick.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Apr 15, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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Norman Clyde prolly climbed it. In Winter. 5.8. In klettershues.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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Which one of the couloirs is "Checkered Demon"?
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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left is kindergarten, right is (i believe) the checkered demon cuolior.
YES JEFF! The very one! The one that looked so scary! haha.
Probably is chossy. Probably is. Still... looks sexxier than a beer on sunday.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
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Fantastic name.
Fairly revealing pictures.
Funky proposition as rock climb no doubt.
Sometime ago, I asked Walter Rosenthal about the Checkered Demon couloir as an ice route.
He said:
"I generally have no interest in ice climbing things I would ski..."
OoohKay.
I went back to hucking scraps of drywall into the bin or whatever we were doing...
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jbar
Social climber
urasymptote
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Apr 15, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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The long, dirty couloir in the pic above is CD. There is a smaller one just to it's left called Kindergarten chute.
Haven't seen any route beta for the arete. SP Parker would probably know for sure.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Apr 15, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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I have about as much info as the rest of y'all, but I will second The Chief's slightly more informed opinion....that rock looks like it would be nasty, dangerous stuff to climb on.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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I've only climbed the left couloir (aka Kindergarten) and looked at the right one (the Checkered Demon proper) in September 2005. Here's the 'schrund of the right couloir -
Looks appealing, no ? :)
Kindergarten was about 40-ish degrees, neve and blue ice. I seem to remember the rock on the sides looking kinda nasty. One of my partners on this little romp looked down the Checkered Demon couloir from the summit (I didn't bother) and said it looked pretty much like so much horribly loose junk.
Still, said partner set up a belay at the very top of the Kindergarten using a nut and a couple cams in something that looked reasonably solid (we were simulclimbing by then).
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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Rhyang, knarly, beautiful picture....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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That is a strange piece of swirling geology. A lot of bending in it's formation. Look at the stratification lines. Weird.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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damn chief! good on you to get that shot.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 16, 2009 - 02:28am PT
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Copyright 1968 S. Clay Wilson Zap Comix San Francisco
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 16, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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Fascinating looking geology, although perhaps best viewed from a distance. I liked DR's cartoon.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 16, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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Thanks Doug!
I just don't think anyone has any idea who the "Checkered Demon" was? When you consider Wes and his motorcycle gang and the Demons lust for the "chicks", it reminds me of wild nights in Camp 4, in the very early 60s,. when we had the "Teton Tea Parties", way up the talus, so the rangers would not bug us. I remember one crazy night when Calderwood was chasing Roper with a flaming stick, because Roper had made advances towards Rich's lady. Myself,I always thought either you, or the kiwi Bill Dentz, were the true Checkered Demon?
NIce!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 16, 2009 - 09:03am PT
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Another grand mystery put to rest ... no, put to life ... er, wrested from the clouds.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 16, 2009 - 10:29am PT
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"A lot of bending in it's formation."
I resemble that remark...
The naked talus runner/rap bolting/ clean climber beat me to the punch with "Sometimes I get tired, just smiling,"
So I'll just add, "Nice day for something."
-couldn't figure out how to work in, "Tongues and thumbs," or "My name ain't Jack and I'm taking her back"
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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When in condition (lately not very frequent), the Checkered Demon Couloir is one of the best ice climbs in the Sierra. It can be easily approached via McGhee Creek Road and done in a day RT from Bishop. The upper gully (when in condition) is mixed ice and very brittle rock (4th or easy 5th) and the route is long by Sierra standards. I don't know of many Sierra ice climbs that are better than this one.
BTW The arete is unclimbed as far as I know and for a good reason. The rock is really bad on it.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Apr 18, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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"looks sexxier than a beer on sunday"
nice line, gotta remember that one
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 18, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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Norman Clyde prolly climbed it. In Winter. 5.8. In klettershues
He would have used hobnails and a wood hatchet.
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apogee
climber
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Apr 19, 2009 - 01:16am PT
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Great thread, GD.
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