Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 113 of total 113 in this topic |
Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 6, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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Got a little off topic in the Nuevo thread... Here's a pic to break it off...
This rock has everything from a 5.10 highball face, to v1-2 mantles, v4ish aretes and v9 mutant overhangs... located halfway up on the black mountain foot trail.
ANYONE have pics and stories about climbs up here post em up!
Fred, you have any old ass hippie pics? haha
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there graham n... say, this is very interesing... not sure if i missed it, but where is this, exactly?
thanks for the neat share... sure hope you get more climbing info, as to climbing shares,etc...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Classic problems galore . . .
JL
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Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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neebee, if youre on the 243 from the north side of the mountain (10 fwy), the blk mtn foot trail is about 4 miles before you hit the black mountain truck trail (the road to boulder basin). hiking the trail from the bottom really only has a purpose if the gates on the road are closed. But since theyre open, you might as well drive up to boulder basin and hike down the foot trail about halfway. This rock would be the lowest elevation youd go to find anything to climb along the trail anyways so its best to go from the top. its right on the trail and you'll see a ton of chalk on it. if you come from the bottom its about a mile and a half up the steep trail.
DR F, Tram is amazing, but the approach is either a long hike up devils slide from humber park or 22 bucks to go up the gondola... but yeah, the boulders up there are realllly good.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Bump for the gates being open! Graham, we still on for the morning?
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Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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boulder basin?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Let's meet at Ok Corral, I don't know if the road is clear to Basin yet. What time?
EDIT: 10 good?
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Used to cut firewood up there. Did a little scrambling BITD, 1980-ish.
Great place....lot's of history, lots of memories.
Largo....that is a all time classic picture !!
I visited "Old Ass Hippie" and his lovely wife Robin this weekend. Set them up with a Photo-Bucket account. Hope he post sum pics. He's done a lot of stuff up there.
Side note.....I always thought "Old Ass Hippie" was Warren Eggbert. Oh well.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Bonus style points for the faded film stock, the budweiser, and the village people outfit.
PMS-- you should help oah and r with youtube as well. iirc, they also got a camcorder around 1990 or so.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Rampage (circa 1999) has a nice little Black Mountain segment in it .
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Great pics Graham !!
klk....... we used beer cans as cheat stones when needed, also, when enough of them accumilated (as they always did), there were used as crash pads !! I've might have met you back then with S and R. However, my memory has faded a bit, due to, um, to many, "cheat stones". Ha !
Sewellymon...... Warren Dude (aka: the original Old Ass Hippie), never ever did I witness him boulder, EVER ! Always doin routes, back country, solo or roped.
Common Scott, post sum pics !! Pretty please? I know you got 'em.
Paul
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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I have to agree it's some of the best summertime climbing in Southern California. I have a feeling the forest service will close the gate this week, with the coming storm.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Graham-- tx for the pix. That panorama is great, but you should resize it for this thread, else all the folks in rural rivco on dial-up won't be able to read or contribute to this thread.
I've bouldered a number of times along that trail, but can't recall that first shot you posted.
Paul: Documentary evidence that Warren does boulder:
Co. Park, not Black, but still, caught in the act.
And the bionic woman, no shoes, no holds, no pad, no problem:
And Scott in, I think, Green Dot rubber on the classic roadside problem:
Anyone know the history of those older Co. Park routes? I always reckoned that the one pictured above dated to Couch/Kamps vintage.
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old ass hippie
Trad climber
nathrop colorado
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Black MT.( the true pioneers) John long ,lynn hill and all the original crew!! THE STONE MASTERS! These guys climbed all over the MT. When was a kid I read a artical about the place, road my IT 400 from hemet up the control road, and was hooked, thats when it started for me. I'v got pix, all slides it will take a bit time to get them out there. as for the old ass hippie nick name, waren was the original hippie! I tried to enter all types of names! Whatever, I feel like an old ass hippie, and don't we all from that era... it's just a web name. waren is now known as the Desert Darryl living in moab, still cranking!!!
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Cool place...I've got some photos of Bruckman pebble pinching:
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I think Largo's article in Climbing (see the pic he posted above) got most of us up that hill for the first time. It must've been paradise when he and Sutton and Grandstaffe and whoever else first went up there.
I have no idea about the earlier days-- Kamps? Couch? Higgins? Robbins? Plenty of folks good on the boulders climbed at Idyllwild in the 1950s if not earlier. But then, Tahquitz and Suicide-- and the roadside boulders in town --were still new and shiny.
I think my first trip was 1981 or 1982. Black Mt. was my primary warm weather area for a good 10 or 12 years. It appears that Paul and I had similar taste in shorts.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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This one is South Ridge, also early 1980s. Scott in what looks like the same outfit as the other pic, hehe. We got more stylish, later.
I'll have to scan for more Black Mt. pix.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Ah! Thats just great! Been looking for the La Cresta stuff, Now I have to look for Black Mtn. pictures too?
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Yes, I agree with Scott....... we ALL were very much inspired by Largo, Stonemasters, etal. We were standing on the shoulders of giants.
Kerwin......I touched up your original photo for clarity. That's one "BAB" (Big Ass Boulder).
Great photo klk !
Pic of Warren bouldering.... WOW !! Forgot he had a "Watusi" digit. Ha !
Scott....didn't we rename the Jewell to... " A mirror at the base will get you up any face". Ha !!
Gonna dig into the archives this weekend for more BM pics.
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old ass hippie
Trad climber
nathrop colorado
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Yeah paul, It seemed the only way I could send that pile was after drinking a sixpak of old english, and a pile of the shit! sutton taught us alot. We always had a huge crash pad of beer cans / dead soldiers. Got a new handle, (scotte) SEE YA...
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old ass hippie
Trad climber
nathrop colorado
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Apr 13, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
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So whats up! Everyone must be cragin. Or this thread is dead.Got some pix,It seems all my shots suck! Alot of butt shots from the old day's, typical of hammers with cameras. But have a few of hemet, fuller RDG buttress, G.V. J.P. BLK. MT. Idyll. an TAQ.CAN. SEE YA....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 13, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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i've running 60-70 hr weeks at work right now and it may not calm down for another week. then i'll post some old pix. dont' seem to have any from later than 86 or 87.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
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Hey a bunch of locals from Bishop are talking about a trip to Black Mountain. Is the gate open and is there snow at the base of the boulders? Thanks
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Apr 13, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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The gate was open last week. We had a weak storm roll through, so i don't know if it's still open. Even though the gate was open the Forest Service station in Idyllwild was saying it was closed. Come down Memorial weekend, there should be a "Boulder Bash." The yearly "opening weekend" party.
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:17am PT
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Hey USTA COULD (aka: Old Ass Hippie).....
No more chit-chat! POST SUM PICS !!
or....
ask Rob to do it.
Love, PMS.
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old ass hippie
Trad climber
nathrop colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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PAUL SO. RDG.
SEE YA....
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Apr 18, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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burp........
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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Wow this thread definitely brings back a lot of Idyllwild memories...Gotta get Malcolm Best to post here as well!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Fuller ridge from OK corral
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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Fuller Buttress
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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x15x15...........cool yer jets man.
were doin the best we can.
were old,
burp...
Love PMs.
HI MP an SCOttE !!!
Lobve alWAYs, PmS.
burp.....
burp...
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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Fuller
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
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Robyn
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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Fuller RDG.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Waren, back side
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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Robyn, Scenic Arete
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
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Not Kiddin he's still alive
WAREN CLASSIC SEE YA.............
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Fuller RDG.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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ROB SO. RDG.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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Fuller RDG
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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kerwin,Speed of light PC.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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Robyn, BLK. MT.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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Saussage fingers Gilje
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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this pix really sucks! FA of the jewel
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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New area?
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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BLK. MT. mantel
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 18, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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CA. boulder comp. 80's
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Tan Slacks
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 18, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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Hey Scott, Those are some great pictures. Wow. Warren, have not thought of him in awhile and Paul too. I sent you an email, did you get it?
Here are some later shots from when Paul was bolting all thos routes by the crashed helicopter, Do you remeber when Paul put up that right side of the arete adn called it 13+? Gilje got wind of it I guess, he asked me to show it to him. We went out there and he got it first try. Here is a picture of too strong on the left arete 5.11 something I think..
This other one is from that short over hanging wall. I think Bowling took this shot.
Say hi to Robyn.. Dan
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Tan Slacks
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 20, 2009 - 09:29am PT
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bump.... more pictures
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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kewin, BLK.MT.?
?
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Paul,the old english is over here, Instant SUPPER FLY!!!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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Waren,the Desert Daryll @ Fuller
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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Robyn BLK. MT.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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kewin, BLK.MT.?
No, that's those roadside boulders in the Banning Pass before they got trashed. That was a cool arete.
Nice pix. Were these mostly taken by Rob? I've been too slammed to contribute, but I'll try to scan a few next week when things calm down a bit.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
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SO. RDG? your right KLK OK coral
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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Heres some old ass pix
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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Home made cimbing shoes
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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:Simson Park / Ramona Bowl,I think: those are PA's
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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dude. yr memory is shot even worse than mine!
that "so ridge" boulder is actually the scoop at ok corral, and i'm pretty sure that the "hemet" undercling is the start of diamond dogs.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
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WE DID'NT KNOW ABOUT CLIMBING SHOES
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Gilje, JP.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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Kerwin,JP. Leg warmers! what!! not kiddin!!!!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Choosy Begger Hemet area
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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Simson Park.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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-Bouldering bump-
Hey, those folks coulda used some crash pads.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Ya, your right kerwin, I guess I've had to many cheat stones!Trying to build a crash pad. and Robyn did take most of the pix. Got some of sammy still to post.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 23, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Nobody uses cheat stones anymore. You don't need 'em, you just stack up a bunch of pads! Cheat, what?
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Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
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Hey whats the JP area? Not Juniper?
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Dude, cheat stones are beer cans where have you been! and a crash pad is a pile of UM.
BURP:
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 23, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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GRAHAM, I'v done many cheat stones! buurp: YA, JP is juniper flats. I think.
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Apr 24, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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coolest thread ever. been waitin for years to see some of these pics.
that is the 'largo scoop' down from o.k. but the image is reversed.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Apr 24, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Nice pics! How far up Fuller Ridge trail are those routes?
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 24, 2009 - 08:21am PT
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About a mile, then you just have to head up the slope and find it. There might be a better way from the bottom up
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 24, 2009 - 08:32am PT
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Robyn,on mother load,G.V the original prospect wall. the route to the right is claim jumper
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Apr 24, 2009 - 09:15am PT
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you can approach them FR routes straight up from the group camp. some excellent problems on the way up too.
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Apr 24, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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GO SCOTTE..........GO !!!!
GReAT PICS !!!
GO SCOTTe....GO !!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:13am PT
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Just a correction on photo "...Santee '81" is actually the 1986 GWBC at Mt. Woodson, Ramona, CA. I'm in there somewhere awaiting the results.
Cheers,
G. McCay
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 25, 2009 - 09:15am PT
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Dweller,thanks for your correction, I could only date it buy another pix in the same pile with 1981 boulder comp. On my shirt, must of worn it that day.
Cheers:
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 25, 2009 - 09:23am PT
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PAUL,KERWIN, post some PIX
I know your holding out!
SEE YA....
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Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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Yeah i thought that set of boulders didnt look like santee...
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Apr 28, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Love the photos with the fingerprints on it....
Love the vintage photos
All great!!!!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Apr 29, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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I just talked to bob, bet ANZA BOB has some GOOD pix's
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Apr 30, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Hi scotte,
Are you talkin 'bout this ANZA BOB?
Bob D? Big Bob? Damiano?
Love, PMS.
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Graham N
Boulder climber
temecula
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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just a heads up, went up the road today and the second gate was open! The gate to boulder basin is still closed but that wont stop you from heading towards fuller. Brought some beginners with me and climbed OK corral a bit, then headed up to the group camps and did some fun little problems. A bit windy but the weather was great. Road was fine except for the logging debris everywhere. there was even a bit of snow drift left a bit higher up. definitely a good time. I'll post some pics later.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Wow PMS! Haven't seen Bob D. in a coon's age!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Those Robyn photes are cool .
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Back to the Black. I probably first went up in 1981 or so, probably the same summer as Scott. These pix are mostly from a few seasons later.
The classic mantle and slab, courtesy of Largo:
You used to have to edge:
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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Jimmy N, fresh out of the army, on Pink Crack:
At the time, Jimmy and his Dad ran one of those mail-order survivalist supply companies. I remember him telling me that he got busted for fighting, while he was in the Army. Lovely fall weather back in Carolina-- as punishment, he had to spend a couple days picking up leaves with a fork.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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A correction to a correction: The Santee '81 looks like Santee, not Woodson. Nothing around Woodson is as flat as the surrounding terrain. Plus I don't think they had a contest at Woodson in '86.
Also the STH RDG? looks alot like the Scoop boulder near the OK Corral but I could be wrong.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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Sewelly-- Sorry to miss out this weekend. I may be there next week. Sorry 'bout your Dad.
FatDad: Yes, it's the Scoop. I think Scott corrected it in a later post.
Lots of big boulders. Hard to imagine a better setting for a sendoff in SoCal.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 13, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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We never had enough cheat stones !!
Cool Pix KLK !!!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 14, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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Jean B in the campground.
Jean and Rob were about the only women I ever saw bouldering at Black back then. I guess Mari. I presume Lynn and Mariah spent some time, as well. Early 1980s was probalby the low point, or one of the low point, for women's participation in bouldering and rock climbing in SoCal.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 14, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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Once we'd dialed most of the stuff we'd found from Largo's "Pumping Granite," we started getting away from the campground and the corral.
Bonus old-skool points if you can identify the brand/model of shoes in this shot.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 14, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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KLK, those were some GooD OLD days! NOT KIDDIN"
SEE YAA .............
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 18, 2009 - 02:09am PT
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Nice pics of Jean. That's the opposite side of the Transmaniacon boulder, I believe.
Curt
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 18, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Sewelly-- Hope yr Dad's ceremony went well, and sorry to have missed the bbq.
Alan and Ian, who are doing a new guidebook for Black, met with the contact guy for the FS District. (Same guy involved with the trail project over at Tahquitz.) SOunds promising:
http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=705
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 18, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Curt, we met at Boulder Basin, didn't we? 1982? I don't have any pix of you from Idyllwild, though, and few enough pix of anything at all up there.
I have some more Black Mt. shots from the early '80s left to scan.
And yeah, Transmaniacon is on the opposite side of that 5.11 Jean is climbing.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 18, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
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Hey Kerwin,
1982 sounds about right. I think I crimped my way past some burly mantle problem you were particularly fond of.
Curt
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 19, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Yeah, the Black Mountain crimp-press dilemma.
Fallen Arch:
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 20, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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KLK, A whole seqence.
Keep it going!! Go Kerwin!! GO!!!
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robin like the bird
Trad climber
mountain center, ca
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All of you photos are great and makes me want to get out. I am wondering if there is any one out there who is still up for exploring the Idyllwild area. I live out in mountain center and have my eye on some great lines, also Does and body know about climbing in ANZA?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Does and body know about climbing in ANZA?
if u resurrect the hemet climbing thread, you'll find a bunch of stuff from current and former ana locals and semi-locals.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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There's still a lot of locals who love to explore the area. Myself included.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Very cool thread...
Keep up the photos....
And that last Mantle Top Out was BAD AZZZ!!!!!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Feb 12, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Does anyone know if the road to Black Mt is open?
I saw a blog post where it appeared people were climbing there last weekend in t-shirts....thinking about rolling up there this weekend but the ranger station isn't answering the phone, apparently they are closed Thursdays, and I would hate to drive all the way up there for the road to be closed.
Anyone know?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 24, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
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Bump for the Black
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 24, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
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The road was open in 2015. Pretty knarly. Ain't the place it used to be.
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Friend
climber
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Mar 30, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
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Nice. I eyeballed KLK's sequence just upthread many times before I finally solved this riddle. The mantle is so improbable... so burly..... and then: there you are, balanced on your pinky, feet under the overhang, nary a hold in sight. What now?
The Fallen Arch, a real puzzlemaker, one of the sweetest problems around for sure.
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