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Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic |
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 6, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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There are a few places I'm hoping to get to in 2009 - places I've never climbed. What is on your "never-climbed-there" tick list for 2009??
First - anywhere in Australia. We are flirting with the idea to climb there later in the year.
Second - Wild Iris. Yeah yeah, I know many people say it sucks, but I've never been and would like to go and find out for myself!
Third - Uintas. Tried to go last year, but it was far too cold. Then the recent photos in R&I (or was it Climbing) came out and really made me want to go there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Callie, re Wild Iris:
When you've climbed at all the other places on your list, then it might be worth visiting Wild Iris. Not that it's horrible or anything, just not up there with about 500 other places you've never visited.
I stopped there on a road trip once. Quite a pretty place, in a smallish way, and we found a pleasant enough campsite with a nice view out over the valley. But unless you're keen on forty feet of pocket pulling repeated endlessly along a relatively small outcrop...
So, if you happen to be passing by on your way to somewhere else, I'd say sure, stop for an afternoon. But as a destination in itself? Probably not.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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People think The Wild Iris sucks???
Mine:
High Sierra
The Needles
Possible Gunks/Daks trip...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Which Needles ElJefe?
I climbed at the California Needles and the South Dakota Needles last year and loved both a TON! Completely different, but both really really great!
Edit: Looks like Wild Iris is about five hours from here. Not too bad even if it's not great. Anyone have photos from there. I've seen some online, but more is good. :)
Edit again: I've not been to the Gunks in about five years. Same for Seneca. I really hope to get out to both of these places again this year as well. Both are so much fun!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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hey crimpergrrrll, met you last year on a cold day at the City, climbing with snowflakes and all...
you'd like the uintas, but the window is short
go to ruth lake for a good intro
wild iris didn't do much for me climbing-wise, but it is a beautiful place to be, and its on the way to somewhere else..
tensleep looks mucho more interesting, but its hardly on the way to anywhere
agree that anyplace called "needles" pretty much rocks
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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really hope to get back to the dolos this summer.
maybe tetons as a consolation.
mostly working, then finishing sierra projs and finding new ones.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Well let's see? No money, Old car, Live thirty miles from a good crag. Yep I'm sure of it now, another full season of staying home. Sounds boring eh? Maybe I can get a few more STer's to visit this year?
Bruce.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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California Needles
Tahquitz/Suicide Areas
Mammoth Area
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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"Should we check out that ridge?"
"Sure!"
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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An untouched 2000 ft. sweet piece of granite, hidden up a side valley of large, dry glacier but only 3 miles from a dirt road. Hint; it's in Chilean Patagonia.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Hatchers Pass, we actually some decent granite less than two hours away, though the season is only a few months long and often rainy. Can't believe I haven't been there yet.
Weekender wall, a sport area about as far away as hatcher and by our standards drys out fairly early in the season. Hopefully I'll get out there within a few weeks.
Secret area, see the climbing/fishing thread.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Whatever you do, don't go to Banks Lake climbing. Don't buy the guidebook, Rock Climbs of Central Washington. Don't take a canoe or 2 person kayak with you to get to some areas.
The place has wildly fun and beautiful climbing and should be left to the chosen few.
Its not on my ticklist, as I was just there this weekend and can hardly wait to go back. We saw 2 other climbers the whole time.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Crimpie-
CA Needles!!! Can't believe I've never been.
Gunks- good friend in New Paltz
The Wild Iris- What Ghost said is pretty right on. I wouldn't have driven to Wyoming just for TWI, I was going to the Wind Rivers. BUT, TWI is a destination, just one that you can climb out pretty quickly. Mos def worth the trip.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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outside my own state...
i had a dream at one point to climb at every location in the three Harlin guides.
at this point I'd accept just the west coast harlin.
out of state right now, I'd like to go to veed, but have to get in state locations and objectives first.
*this post subject to change without notice
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Good call Munge - I'm not far from Vedauwoo and have never been there. All that wide scares me. I need to suck it up and let it have at me though. :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Have to agree with the, less than enthusiastic, comments about Wild Iris. There is better sport climbing in Sinks Canyon just outside of Lander.
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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The sierra, the new, the t wall (are they ALWAYS hunting turkey there? I SWEAR), squamish (!!!!!)...........
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I'm not far from Vedauwoo and have never been there. All that wide scares me."
Don't be afraid of the wide: There's plenty of non-wide stuff. What you ought to be afraid of are the crystals. That place makes the sharpest JTree cheese grator feel like silk.
I'd love to go to Veedauwoo again.
On a rest day.
Lovely spot.
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Bill Hutchins
Trad climber
Maryland
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There are two places to which I am planning to return this spring/summer after long absence: Yosemite and the Tetons. Since returning to to climbing 2 years ago after many years off, I have climbed mostly in the Gunks, WVa, NH and Red Rock.
I was last in the valley in 1971; I'm planning to spend a month there (or camping nearby) starting on May 15th. In addition to a bunch of easy/moderate free climbs, I'm hoping to do an easy wall, something like South Face of Washington Column.
I climbed in the Tetons in the summer of 1970 and haven't been back since. My older daughter and I are going to return in early August to climb.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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CG, I just finished a one year trip around SE Asia, Australia, NZ, India, and Nepal. I know that this will be inflammatory on this site, but The Pines campground at Arapiles is SOOOOOO much better than Camp 4. Best climbing/camping scene I've ever seen outside of maybe one other place. If you want any beta for Australia, send me an e-mail. Arapiles is hailed by many as the best cragging in the world. Right next door are the Grampians which are equally spectacular! If you got to Australia, make sure you head to Tasmania. Spectacular landscape, wine, and climbing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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crimperg,
yeah, I suspect you have to go with the mindset of just having fun, not on 'tearing it up' send stylee.
as Klk says, and others have posted pics of, it seems like a rad place just to hang out.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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This last weekend Harris Resinck, Norman Montes and I visitd two areas out at Echo Cliffs (So Cal) that were developed in 2002, which see virtually no traffic, and which absolutely rock.
Top Hat is a 50 foot high slightly overhanging summit block with a stack of 5.11 and 5.12 sport routes and a stunning overlook of the big valley and the ocean beyond.
The other area, called Mount Olympus, is a big ass cobbled spire that shivers your timbers when yarding on those cobles, but they are bomber after all.
Nothing like these areas anywhere in So Cal.
Norman Montes climbing on Top Hat
Harris on the overlook at Top Hat
Harris leading a 5.10 on Mt. Olympus
Norman Montes on the summit of Mount Olympus
JL
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
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No doubt RKM - excellent accommodations there. Count us in before 2009 ends!
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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City of Rocks,
and maybe a trip to Austria
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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high on my list is going back to north carolina. checked out
the granite there for the first time late last fall. there's
some truly outstanding rock and lines. maybe as soon as next
week, if the weather looks good and i can shake the suits.
that and the outstanding young czech ropegun i tripped over when
last there can skip some classes. this kid is a machine.
oh, and this unnamed gig in rolwaling i saw two years ago.
go to thami, then up and way, way, way left.
^,,^
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Largo--that rock looks a lot like the Pinnacles.
Crimpie-- Wild Iris does not suck. It might not be a huge destination, but it's great rock and great fun. Plenty of other climbing in the area to make it worth heading to.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Rhyang-- Mt Abbot--if you do the North West side take caution--super scary for class 3!!!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Still workin on my back yard.
Discovered a monster slab underneath the main slab at skyline slabs.
aint in the morris book.
and then under eagle peak and to the climbers right, there are three more major systems not in the book.
That red thang and the blue
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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SOMEWHERE, hopefully. . .
Depends on if school lets me. . .
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GDavis
Trad climber
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the bugs, man.
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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They're building a new rock gym at 28th and Valmont. In the meantime, there's the Pool Wall in Ouray...
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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1) Cannon and Whitehorse in NH
2) Seneca
3) Stone Mtn
Wild Iris is lots of fun! I have pics of it as well as several other places. Tensleep would be nice but the approaches are grueling and the camping is poor at best. The locals were not friendly either...lots of cool rock though. LOTS n LOTS.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stephen.richert
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10b4me
Ice climber
Rustys Saloon
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Squamish
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Rhyang--yep, NE Couloir oh man!!! Did that in 1998 and had quite the adventure. I remember reading similar accounts in the summit register. When we descended there was an obvious line that we apparently didn't follow on the way up, because the descent was cake in comparison. So, keeping that in mind, there is no doubt a class 3 way, but I think most folks wander into class 4 or easy 5 terrain. In other words, it's classic sierra class 3. You're gonna have a blast. Hopefully with all I've said, you'll get up there and cruise. Come back here and tell me I was full of it.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Too many places, so I will have to be realistic. I'm still hoping that the ice conditions on Ben Nevis will be good in three weeks time or so.
I have heard that the limestone and tufa on the island of Mallorca is great. I will find out in the coming days as we flew in to Palma from Dublin yesterday.
Since Jennie is not a climber I only brought my shoes, chalkbag and harness (in case I run into some climbers at the crags who invite me on their ropes). It will probably be only bouldering and maybe some very easy soloing.
Flew over the Pyrénées yesterday, snow capped and all. They look beautiful. In the past year I have been lucky to be treated to aerial delights of flying over the Alps, Greenland, Rockies, Cascades and Sierra.
I am hoping to make it to other Irish climbing areas this year, as well as some English/Welsh rock, such as Lundy Island, Sennen Cove (climbed there in 1989), Snowdonia (climbed there in 1991), Anglesey, Peak District, and Lake District (climbed there in 1990).
Now as for dreaming: El Cap (Nose or Salathe); Half Dome, Mendel Couloirs, Bugaboos, Grand Teton, Wind River, Whitney East Face, Rainer, Mt Blanc and Chamonix, Matterhorn... the list is endless.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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The Peak District in England (for our honeymoon).
After that, maybe Tuolomne.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Billygoat - par for the course in the Sierra :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I'm stuck in a glacial rut
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2009 - 11:07am PT
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Cool. I see a lot of TRs with photos in our future!
Glacial rut - hahahaha! Good one!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Papajoto, yer playing with a nasty habit there! Wee bit jealous.
See you at the NordBlob Veterans Reunion this fall-
R
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Tour de Wyoming, hopefully this August
Wild Iris
Freemont Canyon
Devils Tower
Tensleep Canyon
Wind Rivers
Sinks Canyon
Dornans
Oh wait, I've already been to Dornans, but I will surely include it in this trip too.
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KlimbIn
climber
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Aya K wrote: "the t wall (are they ALWAYS hunting turkey there? I SWEAR)"
Uhmm Turkey. Yup April's pretty much all shut down for huntin'
And from Mid June to Mid September only go there if you like climbing in full sun, 100F and 125% humidity.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Ryang--yeah, like a par 5 designed by Tiger Woods! In comparison, the East Face of Middle Pal would be a par three at the local putt putt.
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bobmarley
Trad climber
WAS Auburn CA, NOW Seattle WA
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up above Sinks Canyon i climbed at an area called 'Fossil Hill'. that was many years ago and it was just being developed. it was just like Wild Iris, but longer, more Vert, and i thought better. we met Paul Piana out there who was in the process of developing some new routes. not sure what ever happened to that area. i never hear about it.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Billy - sounds like you got rather seriously offroute, sorry to hear that .. if you look at the SP page you can see where other people have made the same mistake. We'll see if I screw up the same way ..
I've soloed easy fifth in mountain boots, hiking boots, approach shoes .. and I've also said 'hmm, where the heck am I' and turned around. Such is mountaineering .. and the mountain will still be there next year, I'm pretty sure :)
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Evel
Trad climber
Nederland
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the Black, Unaweep, Black hills Needles.........
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I have modest ticklist;....climb new stuff at Joshua Tree, climb in the San Bernardino Mtns at new places for me, climb some of the new stuff in Idyllwild, maybe a day or two at Red Rocks.......just keep the ball rolling and climb at least once a week.............don't spend alot of time driving;...just enjoy the local stuff for now.....
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Gane
Trad climber
State of Confusion
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Lofoten, Norway "The Magic Islands"
(photo link/borrowed from utsidan.se)
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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i have this thing where i just can't manage to get jack sh#t done on my first visit to any given climbing destination.
i just returned from a wholly unproductive visit to zion, arches and the fishers.
so now that those places aren't "new" to me anymore, i intend to go back and actually get something done!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Okay, not good. This evening it pissed down rain and thunder and lightening harder than I have seen in many of year, and is continuing to do so.
Seven years in England and 14 years in Ireland and I can't recall a harder rain than what fell on Mallorca this evening.
I looked at the 7 and 10-day forecasts for the island before we left and generally it said some light rain for Tuesday and Wednesday.
Light? My arse. The five-star Marriott resort we are staying at (I do not recommend it but we got a good deal, as long as on Thursday - Jennie's B'Day - we listen to a 90-minute speel about why we should buy a holiday timeshare here - KNOTT) couldn't even show the Manchester United vs Porto Champion's League 1/4 final, so I had to head up the motorway to Ca'n Pastilla to an English pub to watch it.
As I headed north, the rain was heading south directly onto my car. Did I say rain? Deluge is more like it. The streets were flooded and I almost got stuck. I finally found The Manchester Pub, albeit for the second half.
What has all of this have to do with climbing? I was hoping to spend some time (we fly back to Dublin on Saturday) at the Sa Gubia and Fraguel climbing crags. But it doesn't look good by the forecasts.
Sunny Spain? Afraid knott.
Darn, but fingers crossed for Friday.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Ed H - stuck in a rut eh? Pretty nice rut... :-) Papa J - yes, 'sham' on you, get your arse up here to the Black! :-) As for me, CG and I are hoping to maybe go East for some craggin this coming Fall - I've never been to Seneca Rocks...
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Hey euro- I feel the same way. I dont know why it happens like that- always makes me feel like i am wasting a great opportunity or something.
If anyone is coming out to the Gunks and wants a partner, let me know. I live about 20 min away and have yet to have the chance to show anyone around there.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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i've had that 'waste of time' feeling before... but not this trip. after getting fully shutdown on the main objective i realized my "first time to a destination problem" and, well, pretty much gave up on climbing anything. turned it into a tourist/scouting/photography mission and had an epic blast. did a bunch of crap i'd normally never waste time doing on a climbing trip, gathered up OODLES of beta for next time, and just had a killer time taking it all in. one of my best trips ever!
i'd been saying for years that i hadn't had a 'vacation' since i started climbin. i guess i had one this year!
pics right here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/euroford/Utah09#
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B-Dog
Trad climber
LOUISIANA
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Get up Positive Vibrations on the Hulk, the Rostrum, and Astroman.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I'd love to tell you Crimpie, but then my secret would be out and other peeps would show up!
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