Discussion Topic |
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Since I don't really have an answer for the other thread...
After falling past my belayer on a wall, when he got yanked up to the end of his leash, "I fell up! I fell up!"
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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Best thing to hear from your belayer is
"You're past the crux."
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Do NOT come off there dude, you'll land right on my face!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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When I had just finished the crux, "you're back on belay, I just got a better piece in for the anchor"
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Not good scuffy, the best!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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I once heard the worst from my belayer while leading a thin face route in Kings Canyon.......
"FALLING!!!!"
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Adamame
Trad climber
El Portal
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It's only 5.9
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72hw
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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To a new climber on the ground just as I was reaching the crux of a 5.9 pitch with ground fall potential:
Belayer: "Now you see, if he falls here he will fall twice the distance from his last piece of protection..."
Me: "Ummmm... can we please talk about this some other time??"
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Me, "Up rope....UP ROPE"
A pause, then a dazed reply, "Dude, I fell asleep"
In context, I was replacing bolts on an old bolt ladder. He was laying down on a ledge with his body in the sun and his head in the shade. I guess the tap tap tap of the hand drill was all he neaded to doze off.
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Barry Ward was belaying me on Sorcerer at GM, and I come up on a hornets nest in the middle of the pitch. I want to bail to avoid getting stung multiple times. Barry lets out with " Ah c'mon dude, go for it- I would!" So I did, got bit all to sh#% then bailed.
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originalpmac
Trad climber
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two things: a friend that had never seen someone lead climbing, finally realizes the dynamics of it all, "dude, if you fall... that is gonna HURT!" shut up Shane, came from every one else.
another, was on top-rope after a friend led a dripping wet and thin 5.9 corner, he calls down, "dude, you are on belay, but, uhhh, DON'T FALL!" a$$hole.
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KathyS
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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A different voice than the belayer I started with.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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That's great Sherri!!!!
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BluntMan
Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
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In this case, I'm the belayer:
south crack, thor peak, e. sierra....partner is about 20 feet above a very crappy piece at a cruxy section with a good piece about 20 feet below that. All the rope's out....he needs 20 more feet to get to a belay...tells me I'll have to simul...he can't down-climb. I'm f*#king scared that I'll fall and pull both of us down. I'm thinking, "why didn't you set up the f*#king belay 40 feet down"? I yell, "no problem...I'm on it". I think that's the best thing he could have heard.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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"Hey man! Do you have the lighter ?"
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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"Spread your legs and trust the rubber" yells my belayer as I stem up a chimney. Makes me laugh everytime.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Not really a belayer/leader comment but I use it to this day...
The Beaver* is climbing up on a billboard of a lady drinking a hot cup of coffee. Wally is down below. The Beav is looking scared and not sure what move to do next. Wally let's out... "PUT YER FOOT ON THE LADY'S THUMB BEAV!"
For those too young, (are there any of those on ST?) Leave It To Beaver was a TV show from the days of B&W.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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the best while i was climbing:
(me on my 1st 5.9 lead ever as i was just figuring all of this climbing stuff out)
"you'll probably be fine"
the best to another climber:
(although someone beet me to this upthread)
"Falling"
...as the belayer lost his footing and fell off of a very large ledge pretty close to the ground- so there was no anchor at the bottom.
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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You've got the biggest balls on the planet.
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purplesage
Trad climber
Bend, OR
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"Could you tie off? I'm going to pass out"
On a hot day at Smith
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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After looking for an anchor at the end of a pitch and only finding spindly brush, "Don't fall, I'm tied to a shrubbery"
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Nice one, BluntMan.
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grantius
Trad climber
australia
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...are you the man or the hand?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Usually, out of guilt for me leading something awful, it's a promise for treating at dinner.
Or a reciprocal promise to lead the next unwanted miserable section.
But there's not much the belayer can say, all the funny things are negative like
"you forgot the rack"
or
"Yur gonna Die"
or
"Doesn't the route go up that dirty offwidth instead?"
Peace
Karl
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ec
climber
ca
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We were in the middle of 'nowhere' (Domeland Wilderness)...my partner, a novice leader decides he wants the first pitch on this FA. 'looks easy enough, so I agree. He's some thiry-feet out form his last pro and starts to sketch a bit.
I wasn't to worried, lazing in the sun and casually note to him, "It's a grounder from where you're at."
Then he freaks, but fortunately gets something in. LOL
 ec
edit:
On another occasion: belayer, "Up rope."
Me, "WTF?!"
Belayer, "You ran out of rope, I've been climbing with you the last thiry feet!"
Sh*t the last thirty-feet was the crux!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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"I'll be right back!"
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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"Let's do the Tea Bag!"
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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EC--that second one is classic!
By the way, I apologize for the butchered thread title.
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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helpful circus talk when
things are looking tough..."Up Simba! Up!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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"The best think you ever hear from a belayer while leading..."
Dunno - I've never heard anyone think. I'm sure they do, I just haven't been able to hear it.
(Someone had to say it.)
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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in the middle of the crux I hear "uh.. are you in a good spot?"
"No mistake or flat pancake"
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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Goddammit Mighty, I wait all day for someone to blast me for the typo. I apologize anyways... and then you come along...really nice timing pal.
Official correction, the intended thread title:
The best thing you ever heard from a belayer while leading...
Official subtitle:
...Mighty pain in the rear.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Put your foot on the ladies thumb, Beav.
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Wink
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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"Oh God, is that your BALLS?"
and
"So where's Tim?"
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Hardluck
Social climber
N of Mexico, S of Sanity
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"You've got it"
"You've got it!"
"You've got it, man!!!"
"Uh...that's not it"
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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"dog, you gotta come back -- this belay is like all falling apart!"
(from Lippy, at a hanging belay on an early and quickly aborted attempt to free climb an aid pitch midway up a 'blodgett special'. not as bad as it sounds, he had just popped a 'fixed' lost arrow as he wiggled around -- he still had two beefy enough wired stoppers and a early metolius teeny cam.
the former were solid, the latter once nearly killed me. a blue alien would have been all the jazz, but didn't yet exist. in any case, this ruined our heads for it, so we bailed. and likely for the better, as some actual big kids have since tried that same pitch. big air for all, and no cookie, to date.
sometimes dumb belay comments are "are Like Dancing Lessons from God" -Vonnegut)
^,,^
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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I think that's a bee hive above you.
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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"Don't fall man, those Euros are right behind us!"
"What?" "Let um Pass? F%$$ No man! block that corner like a fullback!"
"Don't give em an inch"
"Welcome to Yosemite gentlemen!"
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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"your blocs over, you can sleep now!"
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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mucci,
> ...those Euros are right behind us!"
> ... block that corner like a fullback!"
purrfect. almost wet myself at that one.
^,,^
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scabang
climber
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"Cuppa tea, mate"? (while landing on the portaledge after a 70ft zipper).
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Silence......
Followed by bunch of pins being wailed into a crappy belay
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I believe I've been gruffed by the billygoat.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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jstan - You know... As a belayer.... It is important that this comment/question be yelled while the leader is in the middle of the crux.
gotta keep'em wondering...
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Robb
Social climber
It's like FoCo in NoCo Daddy-O!
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On a handcrack,from me belaying;
"OK, you're right at the spot where the black widow was last week".
While jugging the haul line on the last pitch of zodiac;
"HURRY UP!"
"Why?"
"YOUR LINE IS CHOPPING!"
Thank you Jesus I was on the Chouinard & not the Edelrid!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Hey isn't that a bolt?
Where?
Over to the right and about twenty feet below you.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Mighty-- yeah, just giving you a hard time for stating the obvious. Classic goat behavior. Gotta live up to the moniker, right?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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"Dude. That is one hairy pie!"
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Bertrand
Trad climber
SF
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Mucci:
"Don't fall man, those Euros are right behind us!"
"What?" "Let um Pass? F%$$ No man! block that corner like a fullback!"
"Don't give em an inch"
---------------------------
That has to be DRC!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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At the end of Marginal's second pitch, traversing toward the belay bolt in 1972 (wearing RR's, for those old enough to remember them), leader began to slip and yelled "Falling!" as he kept sliding toward an inevitable 40-foot fall. Belayer: "You call that a Fall? Get falling or I won't bother holding you."
On the Grack's right side, last pitch, about the same time. Belayer to strung-out leader: "See this knife? If you fall, I'm not going with you!"
Names of characters deleted to protect the guilty, but the two parties were composed of entirely different people.
John
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Whilst halfway up the very exposed second pitch of some steep aid tower, from below:
"So did you watch that video of Ammon's leg?"
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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"Dude, hold on a second, this sh#t is all f*#ked up, f*#k, I'll get you back on in a sec....."
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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In college, when I was about 50' up, my belayer said, "I have been meaning to tell you… your girlfriend gives really good head."
True story!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sorta kinda plausible maybe scenario...
Mrs. McMaidup, in Patched Patagonia Pants: I THOUGHT it went out that way, dear. But it's been ages. I was wearing these pants, though, I remember that much.
McM, wearing really ugly gym shorts from college over lycra leggings: I THINK you were wrong about the route, sweet-sweet. Just keep me on belay, darling. You're probably right, like you always are.
Sponsortaneous mind thinkies happen at belay stances constantly. It's called daydreaming.
Daydreaming on belays is hazardous. Daydream on belays at no time.
Or did he really mean "thing?"
I didn't know what to think, etc.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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"Hang on there Dude! You're off belay! There's a fx#kin bear after my pack!"
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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"Hang on a minute, I need to get another beer out of the ice chest".
No sh!t.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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After he is 35+ feet out my friend says "Is that your rack sitting on the ground?"
Silence for a good 3 count.
Leader says "Yep, just tie it to the lead rope and I'll haul it up"
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oh yah, is that rattle snake still in the crack you're about to & need to use?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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"Belay's shitty, don't fall!"
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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"See this knife? If you fall, I'm not going with you!"
LOL! I'm going to use that one!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I'm sure I'm not the only one here who has refused to tie in when there was no anchor and no pro, am I?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Finally got to a good drilling stance.
"Dude, you forgot the drill, send me down the PDL and hang on"
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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On some picked out ice pitch or another, I was complaining about not having any un-used ice in which to put a screw
"Oh, you're an old screw hole!"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I'm sure I'm not the only one here who has refused to tie in when there was no anchor and no pro, am I?
No you are not alone....
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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While I was being particularly slow leading a hard pitch: "Get the sand out of your pussy and MOVE!"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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guyman, that was yer cue to tell us a story not to tell me what I already knew. :-)
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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"Get back down here so we can smoke this.."
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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After sending a microwave-sized block directly towards my belayer, the best thing I ever heard was him asking if I was okay.
TE
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Just remembered this one...."Uh, if you step about 5 ft to the right, you'll actually be on route and the difficulty will go down substantially".
Edit:(on something in Boulder Canyon, I think on Blob Rock)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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belay off
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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After being out of sight for a few minutes my belayer yells up, "OK, I'm back now".
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jstan
climber
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The worst think you ever hear from a belayer while leading...
As you are at the crux. "Holy shit! Did you see that babe that just went by?"
Bad on any level you look at it.
Has to be a Sheridan Anderson graphic on this. Sheridan's work was far too serious to call them cartoons.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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"Hold tight, there's a bear coming"
First pitch I ever climbed in Yosemite.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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One of my favorite things my belayer has said was when I was about to enter the crux on a climb, I look down to see him making a f*#king sandwich, no hands on the rope, and on an ATC.
When I asked him what the f*#k he was doing, he kind of shrugged it off and said he was hungry.
I haven't climbed with him since.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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I took my ski buddy climbing on a moderate route. He says 'I don't see why I have to stand down here doing this, you're not putting any of those things in'
Good point! Get some gear!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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"Christ Fritz!” “When is a belay, ever, really good!” Pachydermial Pleasantries 1977
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I had just belayed Dusan down over the bergschrund at the top of Liberty Ridge. It was almost
pitch dark, the approaching storm's gusts were approaching 40 knotts, it was late January,
and we had no bivy gear. When I descended to the upper lip of the schrund i heard a voice,
"Reilly, don't come down that snow bridge, go east about 50 feet."
I couldn't see anything below me but there was enough light left that Dusan could see me.
I walked east until I heard him say,
"Stop there. Now, jump."
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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"Don't fall, I'm taking a shit!"
I was the belayer.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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^weren'tcha scared the harness was gonna tear your member if you hadda catch a big winger?
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Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
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"Don't worry, you've got all the slack in the world."
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Not best think while it happened, but bad in a good way afterwards:
I fell on lead. The fall was longer than I had expected, but I ended up at a safe distance from the rocky ground - 5-6 meters. There was a thin list the place I had ended up and I stepped onto the wall ready to move up.
The belayer (in a thin and not so sure voice): "Stop! Are you able to hang there? I have to change belay device."
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