Spring in Splitterville- Photo TR

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snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
The troops assembled from Colorado and California, converging upon our hallowed desert climbing locale. Sixteen hours of driving filled with dreams of sandy slots and parallel fissures without end. We descended into Indian Creek under a bloodlit moon, awaking the next day to our beautiful playground.


After shuddering off the caged feeling and cobwebs from the drive at Donnelly Canyon and Battle of the Bulge on day one, day two brought us to Broken Tooth. This cliff was new for even the most seasoned creek veterans in our crew. I couldn't resist and set off straight away on a brilliant climb Rock Lobster 5.11, figuring the first half of the climb would be my warmup.


We moved on to Pussy Wuss Crack 10+. Here is Henry contemplating how to chickenwing over a roof with piss feet. Liz was able to get her knee in, but declined the title of "Wide Ropegun Girl".


We took some toprope runs on Inflictor 5.12-, a sick fingers and tips line, before Chris sacked up for the lead. Henry jugged the Rock Lobster line and nabbed some great images.






Cruxin above a purple tcu.


For a rest day we hit up our first tower- Easter Island a super fun 2 pitch 5.10 on the Bridger Jacks.


After the mandatory night time vacillations, our goal for day four was made concrete. Bryan's last day would be spent in search of adventure on Rimshot 5.11-, a 5 pitch route that would prove to be stellar. Bryan was in need of a lead and started off on a thin hands splitter, as the unique 5.10 stembox and burly crux corner loomed on high up and left.


A view up the stembox- what a feature and just plain fun to climb!


Henry and I made it to the top first as a party of two, and also having accidentally bypassed the traditional start by way of hard ow and then through my first triangular shaped chimney. We had killer perspective of Liz and Bryan following Chris up the crux corner.


Negotiating the kitty litter (thank you Chris for apt terminology) took us all to the awesome summit of Bridger Jack with the Six Shooters off in the distance.




We said our goodbyes to Bryan, his first time in the Creek cut short by the real world. With Henry as chauffeur and Liz in Moab, Chris and I (mostly Chris) went back to retrieve our stuck rappel ropes. Once retrieved Chris took a run at the pumpy, sustained, and aesthetic Egg Drop Soup 5.12. From there we linked up with Hoopdancer 5.11 taking us to the top of Hummingbird Spire. Some sketchy rappels ended day five.

The sixth day would find us at Scarface Wall, my first time there. Warmed up on the wall's 5.11 namesake.


With a reason in my mind not found in the realm of the rational, I racked the big gear as my first 5.11- offwidth would be on lead. Big Guy! (that's the name of this gorgeous 120 foot splitter)


I struggled mightily on the 15 or so feet of #4 camelots as my big snowboarder knees would not fit, but once it got to 4.5 and 5 I was able to hand and fist stack to victory. What a line!


Day 7 was our next rest day, nabbing both summits of the South Six Shooter 5.8 with our new arrival Clara.




We returned to Moab only to be civilization shocked by the 4000 person Canyonlands marathon. First shower and some thai food were worth it. The 4:40 am alarm put me into a sore disgruntled state, but soon we would be slinking down steep dirt switchbacks in the pitch black. Our truck moved on, abreast of the Green River but unable to even know it was there as no light penetrated down to Canyonlands NP. I began to make out the depthless black cliff lines, as the morning intruded into the sky. Then, our target was before us, and my whole being filled with awe.


Moses, Zeus, Aphrodite, and the Thoracian Mares stood silently waiting for us. The sun filled the canyon and warmed us as we prepared for Primrose Dihedrals 5.11+, seven pitches of sustained, clean, cracks to be climbed on Moses the largest of the towers. Zeus keeps watch for now.


Henry passes the 11+ boulder problem gatekeeper, and then links the first two sustained pitches. Fingers, rings, stems, and hands. Here is getting all rockstar to surmount the 10+ jams around a roof.


I went next, yanking on an RP to pass the devious start.


Chris cast off on the only bad rock of the route and snapped a shot of Henry and I dangling in space. Meanwhile Clara shot a crazy perspective of the same scene from the ground.




Chris made tidy work of linking pitches 3 and 4, a fingers roof and overhanging big hands. This left me taking lead on the last of the business- linking pitch 5 to pitch 6- the infamous ear of Moses. Tricky pro but fun climbing, all the while the ear loomed on high.


A fun 9+ face move to lb, and then I was wrestling Moses' earlobe with 5.11 ow moves.


I whipped out eventually, switched it to a lieback and made headway before another fall. Blood flowing freely out of a torn cuticle I summoned everything for the last hard climbing of the trip and made it to the belay. From here was surreal as we chimneyed and tunneled into Moses' brain, emerging to the summit out the top of his head.


Feet free of my shoes, I spent one last moment of pure being and joy dangling in space on rappel. Primrose lived up to its hype and more, the perfect end to a perfect week.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 30, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
rad!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
Wow! Awesome!!!

GO
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
Bump for great pictures and tales of adventure from the land of sand... and a cool dinosaur Bridger Jack summit photo!
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
thats fantastic. brilliant shots and captions.

Charles
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
I'd climb there...
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Hot damn!
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
Amazing pictures, and some awesome-looking stuff that isn't the usual pure splitter cracks. Need some.
kubok!3

climber
Austin, TX
Mar 30, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
Great stuff!
Hoots

climber
Tacoma, Toyota
Mar 30, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
nice tr bro.
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada
Mar 30, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
cool tr!!
Thanks
adam d

climber
CA
Mar 30, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
nicely done!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 30, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
Snow Hazed, were you climbing with Chriz from SLC the flyboy?
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
nah- the Chris in the pics is a cali kid now in the front range
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Mar 31, 2009 - 04:10am PT
What, nothing about politics? How do you expect to stay on the front page? Damn!!

HA! Good job and great pix! Thanks for sharing.
Mav

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 31, 2009 - 06:08am PT
Awesome!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 31, 2009 - 06:28am PT
Jaybro, let me know when you want to come out to the Creek. It's my backyard, i'd love to show you around. Great photos!!!
ct

climber
CO
Mar 31, 2009 - 07:16am PT
Nice write up Mr. Hazed. Awesome trip that was!

Rimshot is really good with a truly unique and fun pitch 3, I recommend to all. Primrose was as good as hoped, been waiting a loooonng time to climb that one.

Best line of the trip? Big Guy, no doubt!


Inflictor was cool too. This photo demonstrates more accurately how hard I was working...


The author, looking back one last time.
goatboy smellz

climber
dirty south
Mar 31, 2009 - 07:35am PT
That stembox looks wild!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 31, 2009 - 07:45am PT
Thanks, great trip report!!!!!!!!!!!

You all ticked some gems!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Mar 31, 2009 - 07:46am PT
Nice work !
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 31, 2009 - 07:49am PT
Now that is CLIMBING!!!! Good job!
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Mar 31, 2009 - 08:37am PT
DIG!
Nice TR and work Lay-miss-ER-Rob, CT, BRI, and Lizzter. Damn jealous.

Well done.

Love,
A school bound Dirka.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Mar 31, 2009 - 08:39am PT
Jaybro - have you really never been to IC?? You'd love it! Great TR although just looking at the photos makes my hands and feet ache!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2009 - 09:18am PT
Funny that you put up that pic of Inflictor- I went back and forth for awhile between that one and the one I chose- both are sweet shots of you on those hard ass crux moves.

Even though the Big Guy brutalized me down low, I ended up on top... I guess it's official, best line of the trip.
DJS

Trad climber
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:46am PT
What a great TR!!!!!!!

Please post more of these!!!!!!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Mar 31, 2009 - 11:45am PT
Good stuff! That looks like it was an awesome trip.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Mar 31, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
snowhazed - Really awesome photos!!!

There is one loking up, minimal sky, with plenty of features and big changes in texture.. love it!!!

Keep those TRs coming if they continue in this fashion!!!


Cheers to you and your crew
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Mar 31, 2009 - 02:50pm PT
Excellent pics and words - THANKS!

-Jello
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 31, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
This trip report was literally the highlight of my day.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 31, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
Wow, great TR,
Thanks,
Just wild pics.
Zander
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 1, 2009 - 05:41am PT
Crimpie, I have indeed been to Indian Creek, I have been called an early developer there since I first got there in 1980, or so. I have a permenentt scar on the back of my right hand from Quarter of a man in ~'87, the hardest climb I have ever managed to free is there, Belly Full of bad Berries. I have spent ten weeks at a stretch, there.

or were you just trolling me ? =)

It's one of my top three climbing areas in the universe.
Erik Vance

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Apr 2, 2009 - 08:53am PT
Damn, man. Wish I had gone with you guys. Had a good time in J-Tree, but was there with beginners. 5.11's were few and far between. Nice work on the climbing and on the pictures.
Mav

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 08:30am PT
Bump for awesomeness.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 10, 2009 - 08:33am PT
Ah! I thought you were trolling! I was shocked to think you'd not been there. :)
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
above the play park
Apr 10, 2009 - 09:06am PT
Where is this place again?
the Fet

Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 10, 2009 - 11:53am PT
Fantastic!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Apr 10, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
Fuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhh...

frickin animal house, man.

that has to be the Juice talkin, and i don't mean OJ.

how would you like to get into a bar room brawl with those freaks?
they would use your butt for a mop, and your head for a toilet plunger, ala Jack in Hells Angels on Wheels.
strapping young men, they are.

speakin of desert, i could use a chunk of Pecan pie right now.

slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 10, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
ct! Nice to see a familiar face. seems that EVERYONE is in the Creek, again, this spring...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Oh yes- Big bump for a classic TR!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Holy pretty pictures batman! I've never been, hoping to spend a week there next autumn.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
Nice thanks.

DMT
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
Great trip report and pics. I never got to take any pics when I did it with the late Guy Edwards back in 1992 which was a shame.My recollection of the climb was that it was hard and sustained with the minimal pro boulder start being the crux. Good work! I gotta get down there again!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
MILEAGE!!! damn!!

and some excellent pictures too!

helluva write up!
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