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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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The troops assembled from Colorado and California, converging upon our hallowed desert climbing locale. Sixteen hours of driving filled with dreams of sandy slots and parallel fissures without end. We descended into Indian Creek under a bloodlit moon, awaking the next day to our beautiful playground.
After shuddering off the caged feeling and cobwebs from the drive at Donnelly Canyon and Battle of the Bulge on day one, day two brought us to Broken Tooth. This cliff was new for even the most seasoned creek veterans in our crew. I couldn't resist and set off straight away on a brilliant climb Rock Lobster 5.11, figuring the first half of the climb would be my warmup.
We moved on to Pussy Wuss Crack 10+. Here is Henry contemplating how to chickenwing over a roof with piss feet. Liz was able to get her knee in, but declined the title of "Wide Ropegun Girl".
We took some toprope runs on Inflictor 5.12-, a sick fingers and tips line, before Chris sacked up for the lead. Henry jugged the Rock Lobster line and nabbed some great images.
Cruxin above a purple tcu.
For a rest day we hit up our first tower- Easter Island a super fun 2 pitch 5.10 on the Bridger Jacks.
After the mandatory night time vacillations, our goal for day four was made concrete. Bryan's last day would be spent in search of adventure on Rimshot 5.11-, a 5 pitch route that would prove to be stellar. Bryan was in need of a lead and started off on a thin hands splitter, as the unique 5.10 stembox and burly crux corner loomed on high up and left.
A view up the stembox- what a feature and just plain fun to climb!
Henry and I made it to the top first as a party of two, and also having accidentally bypassed the traditional start by way of hard ow and then through my first triangular shaped chimney. We had killer perspective of Liz and Bryan following Chris up the crux corner.
Negotiating the kitty litter (thank you Chris for apt terminology) took us all to the awesome summit of Bridger Jack with the Six Shooters off in the distance.
We said our goodbyes to Bryan, his first time in the Creek cut short by the real world. With Henry as chauffeur and Liz in Moab, Chris and I (mostly Chris) went back to retrieve our stuck rappel ropes. Once retrieved Chris took a run at the pumpy, sustained, and aesthetic Egg Drop Soup 5.12. From there we linked up with Hoopdancer 5.11 taking us to the top of Hummingbird Spire. Some sketchy rappels ended day five.
The sixth day would find us at Scarface Wall, my first time there. Warmed up on the wall's 5.11 namesake.
With a reason in my mind not found in the realm of the rational, I racked the big gear as my first 5.11- offwidth would be on lead. Big Guy! (that's the name of this gorgeous 120 foot splitter)
I struggled mightily on the 15 or so feet of #4 camelots as my big snowboarder knees would not fit, but once it got to 4.5 and 5 I was able to hand and fist stack to victory. What a line!
Day 7 was our next rest day, nabbing both summits of the South Six Shooter 5.8 with our new arrival Clara.
We returned to Moab only to be civilization shocked by the 4000 person Canyonlands marathon. First shower and some thai food were worth it. The 4:40 am alarm put me into a sore disgruntled state, but soon we would be slinking down steep dirt switchbacks in the pitch black. Our truck moved on, abreast of the Green River but unable to even know it was there as no light penetrated down to Canyonlands NP. I began to make out the depthless black cliff lines, as the morning intruded into the sky. Then, our target was before us, and my whole being filled with awe.
Moses, Zeus, Aphrodite, and the Thoracian Mares stood silently waiting for us. The sun filled the canyon and warmed us as we prepared for Primrose Dihedrals 5.11+, seven pitches of sustained, clean, cracks to be climbed on Moses the largest of the towers. Zeus keeps watch for now.
Henry passes the 11+ boulder problem gatekeeper, and then links the first two sustained pitches. Fingers, rings, stems, and hands. Here is getting all rockstar to surmount the 10+ jams around a roof.
I went next, yanking on an RP to pass the devious start.
Chris cast off on the only bad rock of the route and snapped a shot of Henry and I dangling in space. Meanwhile Clara shot a crazy perspective of the same scene from the ground.
Chris made tidy work of linking pitches 3 and 4, a fingers roof and overhanging big hands. This left me taking lead on the last of the business- linking pitch 5 to pitch 6- the infamous ear of Moses. Tricky pro but fun climbing, all the while the ear loomed on high.
A fun 9+ face move to lb, and then I was wrestling Moses' earlobe with 5.11 ow moves.
I whipped out eventually, switched it to a lieback and made headway before another fall. Blood flowing freely out of a torn cuticle I summoned everything for the last hard climbing of the trip and made it to the belay. From here was surreal as we chimneyed and tunneled into Moses' brain, emerging to the summit out the top of his head.
Feet free of my shoes, I spent one last moment of pure being and joy dangling in space on rappel. Primrose lived up to its hype and more, the perfect end to a perfect week.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 30, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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rad!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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Wow! Awesome!!!
GO
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:13am PT
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Bump for great pictures and tales of adventure from the land of sand... and a cool dinosaur Bridger Jack summit photo!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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I'd climb there...
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Hot damn!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Amazing pictures, and some awesome-looking stuff that isn't the usual pure splitter cracks. Need some.
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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Mar 31, 2009 - 12:55am PT
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Great stuff!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Mar 31, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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nice tr bro.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Mar 31, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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cool tr!!
Thanks
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adam d
climber
CA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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nicely done!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 31, 2009 - 01:55am PT
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Snow Hazed, were you climbing with Chriz from SLC the flyboy?
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2009 - 02:31am PT
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nah- the Chris in the pics is a cali kid now in the front range
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 31, 2009 - 07:10am PT
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What, nothing about politics? How do you expect to stay on the front page? Damn!!
HA! Good job and great pix! Thanks for sharing.
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Mav
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 09:08am PT
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Awesome!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 31, 2009 - 09:28am PT
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Jaybro, let me know when you want to come out to the Creek. It's my backyard, i'd love to show you around. Great photos!!!
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ct
climber
CO
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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Nice write up Mr. Hazed. Awesome trip that was!
Rimshot is really good with a truly unique and fun pitch 3, I recommend to all. Primrose was as good as hoped, been waiting a loooonng time to climb that one.
Best line of the trip? Big Guy, no doubt!
Inflictor was cool too. This photo demonstrates more accurately how hard I was working...
The author, looking back one last time.
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goatboy smellz
climber
dirty south
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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That stembox looks wild!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks, great trip report!!!!!!!!!!!
You all ticked some gems!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:46am PT
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Nice work !
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Now that is CLIMBING!!!! Good job!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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DIG!
Nice TR and work Lay-miss-ER-Rob, CT, BRI, and Lizzter. Damn jealous.
Well done.
Love,
A school bound Dirka.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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Jaybro - have you really never been to IC?? You'd love it! Great TR although just looking at the photos makes my hands and feet ache!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Funny that you put up that pic of Inflictor- I went back and forth for awhile between that one and the one I chose- both are sweet shots of you on those hard ass crux moves.
Even though the Big Guy brutalized me down low, I ended up on top... I guess it's official, best line of the trip.
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 31, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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What a great TR!!!!!!!
Please post more of these!!!!!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 31, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
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Good stuff! That looks like it was an awesome trip.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Mar 31, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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snowhazed - Really awesome photos!!!
There is one loking up, minimal sky, with plenty of features and big changes in texture.. love it!!!
Keep those TRs coming if they continue in this fashion!!!
Cheers to you and your crew
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Mar 31, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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Excellent pics and words - THANKS!
-Jello
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 31, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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This trip report was literally the highlight of my day.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Wow, great TR,
Thanks,
Just wild pics.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Crimpie, I have indeed been to Indian Creek, I have been called an early developer there since I first got there in 1980, or so. I have a permenentt scar on the back of my right hand from Quarter of a man in ~'87, the hardest climb I have ever managed to free is there, Belly Full of bad Berries. I have spent ten weeks at a stretch, there.
or were you just trolling me ? =)
It's one of my top three climbing areas in the universe.
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Erik Vance
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Damn, man. Wish I had gone with you guys. Had a good time in J-Tree, but was there with beginners. 5.11's were few and far between. Nice work on the climbing and on the pictures.
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Mav
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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Bump for awesomeness.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 10, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Ah! I thought you were trolling! I was shocked to think you'd not been there. :)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 10, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Where is this place again?
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 10, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
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Fantastic!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
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Fuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhh...
frickin animal house, man.
that has to be the Juice talkin, and i don't mean OJ.
how would you like to get into a bar room brawl with those freaks?
they would use your butt for a mop, and your head for a toilet plunger, ala Jack in Hells Angels on Wheels.
strapping young men, they are.
speakin of desert, i could use a chunk of Pecan pie right now.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 10, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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ct! Nice to see a familiar face. seems that EVERYONE is in the Creek, again, this spring...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Oh yes- Big bump for a classic TR!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Holy pretty pictures batman! I've never been, hoping to spend a week there next autumn.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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Great trip report and pics. I never got to take any pics when I did it with the late Guy Edwards back in 1992 which was a shame.My recollection of the climb was that it was hard and sustained with the minimal pro boulder start being the crux. Good work! I gotta get down there again!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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MILEAGE!!! damn!!
and some excellent pictures too!
helluva write up!
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