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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Yea, after ten years of being lazy and eight different partners I finally finished one of my lines to the top(kinda) on Parkline Sunday. Dangling Chads 5.11b/c or 5.10aC2. Kinda cool up there on kinda top.
Rack is a set of cams 00C3 to #3C4 and stoppers with extra in the smaller range. 60m rope
Rap the route with 2 ropes or rap Home World, between Flying in the Mountains and Dangling Chads, with 1 60
Been seeing more people down there these days, mostly on Stone Quest.
Jeff
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Congratulations!!
Nice photo too.
Ten Years in the making...You could've called it Ten Years After.
Sometimes slow cooked is best anyway.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Nice job! Is that the route you were working on with D.H. a few years back?
Patrick
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Good job Jeff, looks like a nice line. Are you amiable to guiding some old dads up your route? Can't wait for the Valley season to begin.
All the best to you and Mony
Doug
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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kewl new stuff to go check out.
Couldn't thank Ron S enough for turning me onto Stone Quest that day we forget the rack. Good line.
Earlier that morning...
"Dude, what do mean 'where is the rack?' very funny, hahahah, ok, now where's the rack?"
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Congratulations Tork.
Ten years is nuthin'.
I've been staring at that wall for 50, and never even walked up there. Now you're igniting my dreams.
Good on ya.
'nother Doug
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
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Dingus, I wish (not really) that were the case, you know how it is.
Yah Patrick, Dave and I did the first pitch and started the second. The second ended up being harder than we thought it would be plus we needed more than one hook, so we went down with plans to return. Dave was kinda busy so I ended going back with Ron Skelton a bit later.
Reminds me of a story.
The first time Ron got on it, we were just there climbing other stuff. At the end of the day we decided to do the first pitch of the route I started with Dave. Ron liked the look of the second pitch so he asked to lead up to our high point. I was curious to know how hard he thought the pitch was so far, so I agree. Ron works his way up this tips(for normal people) corner without to much fuss. I don't know how he does it, he's got big hands. Then the crack gets really thin, then ends all together. This was my high point where I stood on a knife blade leaned way right and drilled a bolt.Ron gets to the bolt and checks out the next few thin face moves that cross the bolt to the right. I'm thinking he will climb past a couple of feet then come back and lower back down. But Noooooooooooooooooooooo, he keeps climbing. We have no bolt kit and there is no carck to be seen for about 35- 40 feet. He traverses right, my hands start sweating. He continues right and gets to a rest stance where if we had a bolt kit a sane person would start drilling. But, as Ron has no drill he can't. He's 25+ feet out, the moves to that point were 5.11 so reversing them would be tough and scary and a fall would be long and slam him hard into the corner. I start feeling a little sick not knowing what he's going to do. The last thing I wanted was for Ron, who at the time must have been about 60, to get hurt. My hands could barely grip the rope I was sweating it so bad. Rons not even phased. He decides to keep climbing. He continues up and right where he finds a thin crack not visable from below. He wiggles in a nut and clips his rope in. Thank God! I relax. He then tells me the nut is crap. Oh shit! Back to sweating.I need to chalk up at this point. Ron, still showing no sign of remorse, moves on. A few feet higher he get a TCU which he says is so-so. Well at least he has two peices I think to myself. He continues on about five feet above the cam and contomplates the next moves. It's about another six or seven feet to a visable crack. He fiddles around a bit then decides not to risk the fall on his questionable pro. He climbs back down to the so-so cam. I'm not sure what he will do, lower off the cam and nut? He then removes the cam steps down to the crap nut and says take. Take? What? Take? But the nut? You said the nut was crap? Oh sh#t, that nut pulls it's over dude.Ron, unphased, "lower me".
To be continued
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?
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nick farley
climber
bishop
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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Way to go Jeff! You da man.
I'm going to have to come back to Cali just to have a look. See you in the fall.
Cheers,
Nick
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Mar 17, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?
I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess "Dangling Chads" :-)
TS
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 17, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Jeebus, that got me all sweaty-mitted just reading it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 17, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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dang Tork great read on Ron's story...
what happened then? :)
Ron the face climbing meister strikes again!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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Thanks all, I was psyched to get er done. It's a fun route especially this time of year.
Doug N., would love to get up there with you. Who's the old guys you want me to guide?
Nick, great to hear from you! Hope to see you in the fall.
Well Munge,there's not a lot left to tell, the crap nut obviously held as Ron is still alive, kicking, and sending hard. But the whole time lowering him, I kept envisioning it popping and our old friend flying past me. After returning to the ground, Ron was psyched to come back another day with a bolt kit and finish the pitch. So we make a plan to return.
Not sure how much time goes by but we eventually meet up on some planned morning in the turnout at the start of the approach. We get packed up and start heading up the gully. After hiking up a hundred feet or so, I remember we needed hooks. I tell Ron I forgot to put em in my pack but I can run back to my car and grab em. Well as I'm sure you can guess, if you know Ron, he says "naw, I won't need em, I'm gonna get to such in such spot where I'll be able to slap in a bolt. Then continue across the traverse and put another one in at such n such stance." "Are you sure?" I ask. "Oh Yea." We continue to the start and I lead the first pitch and bring Ron up. Ron then fires back up the tips corner, I still don't know how, but this time ready to drill. He clips my bolt, styles the crux moves to the right, and gets to said such n such spot where he's gonna drill a bolt. Guess what? Yep, such n such spot isn't cutting it for a drilling stance and he needs a hook which again we don't have. Here we go again,sweat sweat. Ron has to do the entire traverse without a bolt again. Luckily, one can camp at the stance at the end of the traverse and he was able to get one in and then finish up the pitch.
Then it was my turn to follow the pitch and while doing so, totally AMAZED that Ron not only lead that traverse without a bolt, he did it twice. Oh, and we added two more bolts to the pitch on our way down and I always keep a hook in my bolt kit.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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I added homeworld to the photo. You can get off all three of these routes by rapping Homeworld with one 60m rope.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 18, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Tork,
Thanks for posting the topo and telling us the story. Wish I could climb 5.11, I'd check it out.
Zander
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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Zander, you can aid the crux pitch no prob, but you need to do two hook moves to the second bolt, then tension across, Then it's easy aid through the rest of the pitch. The fourth pitch is 10a.
Jeff
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 18, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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great finish to the story!!!
and awfully generous to post that topo, thx!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 18, 2009 - 03:45am PT
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hey there tork... say, wow, i sure aint a rock climber, but i really CAN appreciate your hard work and tenacity to tackle your chore and reach your goal!...
i just love big projects and way they make you feel good when done doing a good hard job... :)
congrats... and so much more...
say, i really love the picture and the way the route is highligted so... it looks really speical that way, kind of like christmas lights, but all orange...
very good job, even though, haha, i wouldn't know what i'm talking about, as to what MADE it such a good job... :)
(though care and foresight and caution, all would come into play, i would think)...
but you know... one just has these gut feeling about stuff... and i am so very happy for your goal being met...
god bless... and thanks for sharing you "baby" here with all that will really love it...
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:58am PT
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Nice overlay, Jeff! I like the colored dots idea, where you can still see the crack line between the dots.
I may have some slightly better photos. Alexander Cooper took these on a rainy recon day, back in February 2004. I have some conventional topos which I have traced from the photos, too, although I have not scanned them yet.
Here is a brighter and larger photo, in 2 segments to work around the photobucket limit of 800 x 600 (I can send you the larger original if you'd like):
On supertopo, there is a slight gap between the segments.
On my own web page, I can put segments together with no gap, by using some table codes. Here is an example (Sawtooths, ID trail map, 3 segments):
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/eperch/gmap2.htm
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 05:49am PT
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Slight thread drift - here are a couple of guys climbing Homeworld, April 2008:
p3-4
p5
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 10:24am PT
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Thanks Clint, great photos, send away, please.
Homeworld is a cool route as well. I remember the seventh pitch being quite good and the sixth a bit scary.
Jeff
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Mar 18, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Nice Job!
We'll see ya in SEKI.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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Thanks for setting new routes. There is references to Homeworld route as route in the middle
But , I do not see "Home world" in Reid book (1994) . How is new routes located in references to roots which in the Book ( Stonequest for instance)?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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Alexey,
8. Woody Woodpecker FA: Ron Skelton, Greg Magruder, 1/1985
9. Sawyer Crack FA: Bruce Price, Jerry Anderson, 4/1972
10. Flying in the Mountains FA: Sean Jones, Robbie Bouchard, 2005
11. Homeworld FA: Sean Jones, Robbie Bouchard, 2005
12. Dangling Chads FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, 3/2009 [to be added]
15. Eagle's Eyrie FA: Ron Skelton, Greg Magruder, 4/1988
from
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Cool photos - looks like fun rock
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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Alexey,
This should help. The letters match the Reid topo (p26).
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 19, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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Tork and Clint, thank you
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Mar 19, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Hey Tork,
Nice work! My girlfriend and I were climbing at Parkline on Sunday for the first time ever on Stonequest. I think we saw you guys up on the rock, and possibly in the parking lot.
That Ron Skelton story is great. I was super impressed by what I imagined the first ascent of Stonequest must have been like and that's only 5.8/5.9! I was kind of spooked just repeating the route with a topo. it's steeper than it looks and some of those bolts are pretty far up there. :) I can't imagine heading up there with a bolt kit or whatever... spectacular climb!
 Justin
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Thanks Justin.
Sorry we didn't stop to talk. I like talking to folks that go up there. I like hearing about what they have done up there and turning them on to a bunch of stuff that's not in the guide. There are several well protected 5.7-5.9 routes up there as well as harder stuff.
Stone Quest was just another day in the park for Ron. He probably put it up faster than most people climb it now. That guy is kinda fearless. I've caught him on a couple big falls and belayed him several times where I was so glad he didn't. He's a great guy to boot.
Jeff
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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Hoots and I climbed Woody Woodpecker the other day...nice crack climbing. Then you keep going up a mungy corner to (surprise!) some nice bolts to get down Thanks for those, whomever did the work.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 16, 2009 - 02:02am PT
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Rhodo-Router,
> Then you keep going up a mungy corner to (surprise!) some nice bolts to get down Thanks for those, whomever did the work.
Alexander Cooper and I may have placed one of those bolts in February 2004, but I didn't seem to write up a trip report. It would have been a 3/8" wedge stud with a Fixe hanger and 2 lap links if it was one of ours.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2009 - 10:13am PT
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Sawyer Crack is a nice splitter as well. I like it better in fact, due to a straight line. I took one #5 Camalot.
Not sure who, but I think someone did the left side. Just from looking I would guess 11+ or 12. You never know though, there could be some great holds right where it looks hard , or not.
Another nice crack is Whoreny Toad 5.9 just to the right of Eagles Eyrie. Nice new bolted anchor on top of a very comfy ledge on pitch 2. P1 is short with one move that is protected by a bolt to an anchor below the crack. P2 is long and fun, mostly hands, with the crux right at the end.
Clint, I added a bolt to that anchor years ago with Bill Alexander. He did say bolts though. Maybe you guys added the second. Or maybe whomever bolted the face ,5.10ish, that leads up to the base of the Cockshead fixed up that anchor as well. There is an anchor on the ledge below the left side of the Cockshead and one on top of the left side route, right above the beak.
Jeff
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 23, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Jeff,
Here's what Bob and I climbed on that sunny weekend:
We'll be back when the sun comes out, to see what the rains have cleaned off.
Is there a name for the new climb you did with Mony, just left of Parkline Pinnacle?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Jeff,
What was the .9 we did the day we rebolted that thing and what is the thing we rebolted?
kev
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 23, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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Just want to say thanks to Tork, he has done a ton of work out there at Parkline. Fixing old rusty mank and putting up several fun climbs. Climbed several of his newer routes last week. I had a chance to climb in the warm sun in February. :)
Sorry no pics! I've been lazy about the camera lately.
Steve
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Steve,
Are you working or climbing right now?
kev
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 23, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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Not working Kev. Not climbing, its raining out there. So, I am doing nothing! Working on getting a job, not doing so great at it thus far!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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It's not raining thursday so you should talk to Jeff! I've got to work most weekdays for the next month or so (I emphasize most not all).
I'll email you when I get a chance...
kev
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Brother John
Big Wall climber
In a cave right next to the tool shack
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Feb 23, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
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I've always wondered who's lines those where. I've stood at the base wondering what the FAist was doing. Thanks for the effort and I'll be taking a whack at it this spring.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Feb 23, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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So cool that you stuck it out and kept working on it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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Thanks Clint! Was good to see ya out there. Let me know when you go back up there.
Mony and I were on Eye of the Beholder. It ends at the last anchor of Stone Quest in 5 pitches. (P1 5.6, P2 5.8, P3 5.9, P4 11a(move), P5 10a)
I usually link 1 and 2 with a 70 or 15' of simul climbing w/60.
Steve, thanks for the kind words. I enjoyed getting out with ya!
Kev, we climbed Whorny Toad 5.9 and replaced the bolts on an unknown 5.10.
Started a direct start to that bombay project today.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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Coz, it was Ron Skelton.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Brother John,
The fixed ropes were on Eye of the Beholder a bit left of Stone Quest. Dangling Chads is a bit left of Eagles Eyrie. I like both routes but Dangling Chads is the better of the two.
Here is a poor copy of a poor topo for Eye of the Beholder
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 28, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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All be damned!
That looks like a original JEFE Topo.
Elusive and obscure, this may be the first one I have seen.
Nice.
Can't make it out tomorrow Tork, gotta job interiew....Whoop!
Mucci
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Feb 28, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
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cool.
on the winter "to do" list
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Hey, we are getting much faster! This time it only took us three weeks(3 days) to put up a new route to the top.
Mucciman, what a great partner. Good climber, way motivated and fun to hang out with. He is also great at keeping things on the right path. No rap bolting for this man, ground up only.
Cheers to Mucci!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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Jeffery,
I will be there shortly, ready to clean up some projects at Parkline, and on Middle
Cathedral. I'll need a rope gun on some of these, you game?
Doug
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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This pitch had it all.
Clint/Bob- You got any pix of your route?
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Apr 30, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
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Right on Jeff!! Nice work bro!!
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Apr 30, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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Cool post..
thanks for the development... !!!
proudness on them numbers too....
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Apr 30, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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CONGRATS!
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Sean Jones
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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Right on ! Nice to see more action there. Looks like a great addition to the wall. Congrats !
Sean Jones.
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Sean Jones
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
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Also, thanks for includng Homeworld and Flyng in the Mountains to the topo. These routes mean alot to me and I'm stoked to see them getting travelled.
Sean.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Hey Mucci,
Clint is the one with the camera. I think he probably has some pics. Maybe even one of me falling out of the crux!
Bob
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nice C+B!!!
Great Pictures, you could really tell how late it was getting as you guys hit the pinnacle!
Nice push, P2 corner looks sweet.
Thanks for the TR, very nice looking line there.
Mucci
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> you could really tell how late it was getting as you guys hit the pinnacle!
Maybe an illusion due to something I left out. The last 3 photos were taken on Saturday, our second day. We rapped off on Friday evening and reclimbed all the pitches on Saturday except the first 2, where we had fixed ropes. Still, it was late on Saturday when we did those last pitches on the pinnacle. And later still as we rapped down in the dark and replaced anchors on Eagle's Eyrie.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Cool pics Clint! We need to get some shots of you with that camera one of these days!
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