New Nose Speed Record - 2:48


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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2002 - 01:37pm PT
this just in from Hans Florine:

Hi all,

Yesterday, September 29th 2002, Yuji Hirayama and I climbed The Nose on El Capitan, we set the record at 2
hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds. Terribly fun and rewarding. My favorite route in the world. Covering so much beautiful granite in a pleasant morning was paradise.

Yuji led the whole route. We simulclimbed about 2450 ft and I jugged while Yuji short-fixed/self-belayed for about 500 ft. Except for our friends, Bill and Lou on the first pitch taking pictures, we didn't have to pass any parties on route.

We exchanged gear at the 6th pitch, (leaving sickle), at the 17th pitch,( King swing), at the 21st pitch, (great roof), at the 25th and 27th pitch, (camp 5 and 6).

We started at 7:15 am and topped out at 10:03 am. It was a bit cold at the start, my hands barely staying warm enough to feel the pin scars on the first three pitches. After that it was perfect temperatures. I was gasping for breath as we entered into the Stove Legs at the 7th pitch. Luckily I had a minute rest there as I waited for Yuji to get more than two pieces between us. From there up I managed to keep from going anarobic, til the last 100 ft.- where I pushed hard knowing I could colapse on top,- which I did.

We carried one #3 camalot, one #2, two #1s, one.75, one .5, and doubles below that. 6 nuts, one cam hook, one etrier, 17 quick draws, 18 free biners, 6 long runners, one Powergel each, one liter water each, one 10Oz can UpTime drink, a Gri gri, a couple lockers, Petzl jugs, set of JJs,(jugging loops), shorts, one dress shirt, one t-shirt.

BOY IT WAS FUN! and rewarding!
pictures: , , and

a brief history below.


---know anyone who wants to be on the "speedclimb e-news list" have them email me.


1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push. (48 days of work over 18 months)
1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.
1975 - a one day ascent was made.
1986 - the route was done in under 10 hours.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48
1992 - 4:22 became the record.
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 02:35pm PT
I KNEW something seemed missing from my climbing experience. A stopwatch.
Mike O.

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 02:51pm PT
Awesome - in the truest sense of the word. Congratulations!!! -m

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 02:56pm PT
A "dress shirt"?
Is that how you go fast?

Congrats. Incomprehensible.
Karl Baba

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 03:44pm PT
Dang you Hans! Making a mockery of my "Old Guy" excuse!

Amazing! Congrats! I can't even pack the haul bag in under 3 hours.


Phantom Fugitive

Advanced climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 04:46pm PT

While I was topping out, you two must have been starting up!! We also had the whole wall to ourselves.

Hans-I was going to write and thank you for your advice in your book, and Chris Mac- for your beautiful supertopos. This seems a good as place as any. Thanks, boys.

I had never lead aid before, and never done anything over grade IV before...then my partner and I racked up for a long day on the nose. I lead from stovelegs to Great Roof, then my partner , Al Curano took over(from Ironworks).

Our ascent was just a "wee" bit longer than yours at 27 hours. 2:48 is completely incromprehensible to me right now. It just doesn't even compute.
There are truly aliens among us!
Congrats gentlemen! Truly amazing! Wish I would have waited to greet you at the top!

Jer Collins

Intermediate climber
on the earth!
Sep 30, 2002 - 05:23pm PT
chekc it out

Intermediate climber
on the earth!
Sep 30, 2002 - 05:25pm PT
sorry my son accidently click on post this reply. forgive me!

that s fast! i congrat them. they are the MEN! i wonder is anyone beat lynn hill record? maybe i havent hear it since. will anyone let me know?? thanks

peace out!

Advanced climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 06:26pm PT
They jugged up pre-fixed lines on the last 300 feet. I was there and saw them.


Intermediate climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 06:30pm PT
Hans, Congrats, that is simply incredible... But at the rate you're going, why not shoot for sub 4 hours CAR-TO-CAR? Sorry, I just HAD to ask... James.

Novice climber
slow as a snail unless I'm on my bike...
Sep 30, 2002 - 07:16pm PT
WOW! That's way under 3! Right On! Good Work!

Let the competition continue.

Back to work Dean...

Intermediate climber
Too Far From the Valley, SF
Sep 30, 2002 - 08:28pm PT
Oh my.


<humbled, in the presence of greatness>


I hope to speed ascend the West Face of Leaning tower....

in 15-20hours!

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 09:26pm PT
you say they jugged the last 300ft on fixed ropes!!! is that true hans?

Novice climber
Sep 30, 2002 - 10:11pm PT
Yes, it is true.

God, climbers these days. Just trying to build a name for themselfs...


Everyone and there Grandma can Jug 300-feet for fixed lines...or why dont you just set up a big top rope? you'd only have to climb about 1/2 was up untill the weight of the rope would just pull you up
Mr. L

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 12:30am PT
I wouldn't give too much weight to what this "afdsd" guy is saying. He might be honestly mistaken, but I think he put a big slab of sh#t on his trolling hook to see who'd bite.

Hans is a stickler for making sure his speed ascents can't be critiqued on technicalities, and this would be more than just a technicality.

When Hans and Brian passed me and my partner Daniel, on The Albatross at The Canoe last year, Brian yelled down that he was short on heads while leading the Walk the Plank pitch. We offered to give them some heads, but Hans said no thanks and told Brian to work it out because Hans didn't want to have the ascent tainted by using gear that they hadn't brought up themselves.

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 12:32pm PT

you're a dope!
no body jugged anything- those guys are as honest as they come & you are nothing more than a fool. there was a rescue effort in the valley that morning (sunday), so plenty of people were around in the meadow & watching them blaze up there (in good style, no less).

what's really funny is that those two could pbly lead those pitches faster than YOU could jug them!

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 01:34pm PT
Hans and most all the guys who rip on the stone do it with high integrity. If speeding isn't your thing, why the need to bag on this amazing accomplishment (or even troll on it)? And who gives a sh#t about 27-hour ascents of the Nose or 15-hour ascents of LT? How pathetic to chime in with this paling crap under such an impressive topic. Start a new topic so it can die its quick and deserving death.

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 01:55pm PT
This is a classic SuperTopo thread. A good
usefull/interesting start which lasts for
about 5 replys. Then the descent into poorly
worded bickering. Oh well...

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 02:34pm PT
......which is exactly why the thread became interesting only AFTER 5 posts.

Intermediate climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 1, 2002 - 03:25pm PT
Rising from the ashes ..

Nice job! What a great thing it would be if you could post something here before hand - we'd all come out to cheer you on!

Old Guy

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 03:28pm PT

On the subject of bickering....

It was not Mr. "afdsd" who set the troll that got me a' snapping, it was CH......

CH- -you wrote--
"you say they jugged the last 300ft on fixed ropes!!! is that true hans?"

Again, I just wanted to take the opportunity to say


don't detract from their accomplishment with stupid slander, dickwad
Young Guy

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 03:37pm PT
Old dude,

Have you read the post above? It was afdsd who claims they jugged fixed lines at the top. CH simply asked if this was true. What the hell is wrong with that?

You've become senile in your old age.


Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 03:59pm PT
this fixed line stuff is nonsense and should just be ignored.

What a tremendous athletic achievement. Truly inspirational.

By the way anyone have any details on the rescue in the meadow?

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 04:18pm PT
I don't know what is more pathetically funny, that "Old Guy" cannot read, or at least understand simple sentences, or that he actually uses words like "dickwad." Pretty funny either way. I know there are illiterates in their 40's, 50's and beyond, and here we have proof. Old Guy, if by old you mean you are only VERY recently out of your teens, then I apologize, because your posts might then speak for themselves.

Novice climber
cincinnati ohio
Oct 1, 2002 - 04:27pm PT
hey old guy,

Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 04:28pm PT
...dont get your panties in a wad.
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok

Novice climber
Tucson, AZ at the moment, eh?
Oct 1, 2002 - 04:46pm PT
I wonder if you all know that Hans and Yuji missed the record by two minutes just a couple days previously with their 3:26 ascent, so decided to go back and finish the job.

Great work, lads!

You are, in Dr. Piton parlance, <b>emphatically The Sh#t,</b> and are hereby awarded the <b><font color="red">Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab Award of Merit</b></font> for <b>outstanding bitchin'ness.</b>

Gads, you guys climbed it in the <b><i>MORNING?!</b></i>

Why, I can't even climb out of my portaledge until I've drunk my <b>second</b> pot of coffee.


[Stop by my ledge for a cup next time you're in the neighbourhood, eh?]

Cheers and congrats,

Pete [and <b><font color="red">Wee-Wee</b></font>]


Novice climber
Oct 1, 2002 - 10:37pm PT
so did they jug the last three hundred feet?

Intermediate climber
San Francisco
Oct 2, 2002 - 02:40am PT
I am amazed by the record but afraid Dean will push himself beyond the human in the next few weeks. It would great to see this record stand for another ten years or so.

Time will tell.



Novice climber
Oct 2, 2002 - 03:00am PT
You all be carefull...
So many sad things happening in the world right now...
It would kill us all, if one of you amazing and inspiring humans died playing this game.
Karl Baba

Novice climber
Oct 2, 2002 - 03:01am PT
It's amazing what a different vision if things makes possible. Under 3 hours boggles my mind. Still, someday, someone will free solo the whole nose. Before that, a total simul ascent will get down close to 2 hours.

Unless I'm just wrong!

Intermediate climber
Oct 2, 2002 - 01:41pm PT
Top out by 10:03! You guys thought you would get in a little climb before work? A truely amazing feat that pushes the human body and spirit to new heights. Great Job, and thanks for sharing the experience with us!

Novice climber
Oct 2, 2002 - 02:53pm PT
Karl, someone will free solo the Nose? 5.13b you really think?

I know the definition of impossible gets changed all the time, but that's IMPOSSIBLE.

Wait a minute didn't Cap'n Kirk already do that?

No one has repeated the free ascent (leading) yet have they? Lynn Hill is AMAZING. Still though the Jardine traverse bothers me. But I guess it's either that or the swing.
Karl Baba

Novice climber
Oct 3, 2002 - 10:23pm PT
My guess the Nose is a sandbag at 13b and only if you're Ms. Hill's size. It's 5.14 or worse for average sized folks and that's why no superman has gone and flashed it.

Still, we've only been climbing El Cap for about 50 years. During the next 500 years, if we don't destroy ourselves, some once-in-a-century genetically enchanced supergirl will just solo the damn thing.

Before that, somebody like Dean will free-solo 95% of it and use screamer-daisy chain-cam hook-tricks on the other 5% and do it damn quick.

I would have said Dean would do it like that but maybe his recent (congrats) wedding will dampen his desire to stick his neck out further than necessary. He, and Hans, are pretty amazing with any suicidal showstopping feats.



Novice climber
Oct 4, 2002 - 01:26am PT
On my last post I meant to say those guys are amazing without having to stick their necks out way too far.

Novice climber
Oct 4, 2002 - 08:18pm PT
Karl, it took me 5 minutes to remember this thing you reminded me about. It is this formula that applies to physics and evolution.
Can't remember it exactly, but it is a diminishing return formula, that stops animals, planets and such from evolving or getting to big. I yhink it is related to gravity mostly.
Some super smart dude has been able to apply it to a bunch of other everyday life stuff.
They applied it to Olympic athletic achievements over the last 100 or so years, and the logic held there also. They found that although there continues to be gains in achievement in all Olympic sports, the relative increase in achievement is very small when compared to the initial first 10 years of competition.(as an example)
Seems like these guys are proving it wrong.

Novice climber
Carversville, PA
Oct 23, 2002 - 04:46pm PT
Holy Sh-moley! I think it would take me longer to fall off the top and crater :^) Well done!
Scott Gilpin

Novice climber
Los Angelese, CA
Oct 24, 2002 - 04:55pm PT
Here's quite a lengthy write up of the event:
Cameron Crowzfeet

Novice climber
Oct 24, 2002 - 06:41pm PT
Nice pix, but I can't handle those alienating blocks of teeny type. Thanks.

Novice climber
Oct 25, 2002 - 09:28pm PT
uhhhhh.... whoa, that was kewl.
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