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Social climber
Toronto Canada
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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Hi folks! I have keyboard in hand and would like to throw out a question to you. I need some background on an article I'm writing;
specifically on rock faces that are prone to crumbling and therefore considered off limits. Here's the scenario ...
my young adventurer(a recreational wall climber) tries to solo up a facing that he finds himself stranded on. Two veterans of the sport eventually rescue him from above.
Here's the question. Where in the US of A can you find that kind of condition amongst hills that are legitimate climbing terrain?
Thank you in advance. Richard
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Social climber
Toronto Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Thank you
Anything like that in the Ozarks by any chance?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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what surfer-boy said. . .Joshua Tree.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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PNM is a classic
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Shitty "rock" you're looking for?
Here you go.
This place makes Joshua Tree look like Yosemite Granite.
And the trains run through here more or less constantly (except when you're trying to get a picture of one, not one train in two hours on the western track in the foreground)
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Social climber
Toronto Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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To whomcannotclimb ... I can't seem to find anything on Google using the letters PNM.
If you guys climb as fast as you write replies ...
Well- I appreciate your input. I'll drop back and collect the offerings later. Thanks again.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 14, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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if we climbed as fast as we reply we wouldn't be here....
we'd be out swapping leads with Ammon....
or just out climbing period.
LOL!
Good luck with your story. let us know what it is and where we can read it when the time comes.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 14, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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Pinnacles, the chosspile capital of the world!!!!
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Mar 14, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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Pinnacles:
Some call it an addiction. Some call it an affliction.
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Mar 14, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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TimidTopRope,
That's Mormon Rocks, east of Devil's Punchbowl.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Mar 14, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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specifically on rock faces that are prone to crumbling
How about Glacier Point Apron?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 14, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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Pinnacles, the chosspile capital of the world!!!!
Jeez Bluey, another thing I agree with you. This is getting worrying. ;-)
You do not fall in the Pinnacles otherwise, you might as well be sliding your asss down a cheese grater.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 14, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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Geez, Paddy, pretty soon me and you will be tongue-kissing each other....
Try and get THAT image out of your head, bwhaahahhaah!!!!!!!
sorry.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Mar 14, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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"Anything like that in the Ozarks by any chance? "
Sure. Tons of chosspiles in Missouri.
For Arkansas N. side of Mt. Magazine sux. Loose stuff at Haw Creek. Maybe Pinnacle Mt. in Little Rock. http://www.arkansasstateparks.com/pinnaclemountain/
Realistically, you can find loose shite anywhere there is rock. Just look for the stuff people aren't climbing.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
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i spent all fall climbing @ Pinnacles and i thinks your characterizations are a bit harsh. i found some great rock there. oh, but i did say the Alabamas had bullet hard stone...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Mar 14, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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Nice photos of Mormon Rocks, chaz. Used to drive through there a lot when my mother-in-law had a property out in Phelan. Lot's of cowboy pics filmed there.
Eric
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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Garden of the Gods?
Seems like I saw choss at Hueco too.
Plenty of choss on a grand scale in the Sandias.
Tons of scenic choss on the Oregon and Washington coast.
I found an absolutely ancient ring pin on something at Nehalem, OR (about '74) which piqued my imagination.
Mega choss along Yakima and Naches river valleys in Wahsington. Tatoosh Range opposite Rainier without equal.
Choss should have claimed the 13 yr old me and my 8 yr old bros above Desert Hot Springs with Granny's clothes line BITD.
Ex-Choss addict, clean for lo these many years
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
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Pinnacles National Monument
A breccia choss pile that crumbles at the touch.
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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Mar 14, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
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anything that is not glacier washed granite is crap.
the pinnacles and the 'garden of the gods' are especially crap.
but then, what would i know -- I'm a Climber not a Writer...
^,,^
EDIT: J-tree is choss? bwaaahaaahaaahaaa. you Californicators don't know what choss is (unless you've been to PNM) Tami is right (though don't tell her i said so) -- anything within a 2 hour drive of Cranmore is crap!
As my buddy Al on the .wreck forever reminded us -- "the CA (as in Canada, morons) Front Range -- where the ice is _way_ more solid than the rock."
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Katie_I
Mountain climber
Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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Hey writer,
Iowa City, Iowa has some of the best, muddiest, most crumbly, damp choss (Pictured Rocks, Indian Bluffs, Palisades-Kepler) and friendliest climbing communities. And lots and lots of writers. I wrote some fiction stories about choss-soloing there myself.
But there's nothing like digging through mud and ferns with your fingernails to try to get a tricam in a pocket. =)
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Social climber
Toronto Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2009 - 06:22am PT
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You guys are amazing! I can't thank you enough for all the attention on the subject. As it happens, this short story is a club effort [like a community mural] . It's a joint venture that started out of an exercise to combat writers block. Ten minute bursts of simply writing anything that comes out of your head about whatever subject focused on. I started the thread but I needed to make it real so I came here. I will post it here in Climbers forum when it's wrapped up.
Meanwhile,because of this - the wheels are turning around the idea of asking you folks for any special human interest climbing stories that you think need to be written. No rush ... I'll get back to you on that. Till then I think there's more than enough info to get it done. Have a fun season in 09. Thanks a bunch!
~Richard
P.S> I already have a valid passport. I would only need to validate my wallet to see some of what you see.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Mar 15, 2009 - 09:01am PT
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I think Woody still uses one ot those ropes.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
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Pinnacles or the Napa Palisades (obscure and seldom visited, hiking trail to notoriously crumbly three pitch climbs)
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Fletcher writes:
"Nice photos of Mormon Rocks, chaz"
Thanks.
I hadn't been there since I was a kid until last month. I've gone there four or five times now looking to get a shot of a train running through the rocks.
I've got my angles scouted (50-100 feet higher shows a track winding through the rocks), all I'm waiting for is a train on the west (Southern-Pacific) track on a breezy, sunny day. The kite string in the shot doesn't bother me. I'm looking to capture a moment-in-time, and if the kite string's there then, that's how it is.
I vaguely remember my folks talking about something horrible going down out there when I was a kid, and still my mother seems very concerned that I would even consider stopping the car there, let alone getting out and looking around.
Maybe next time I'm out there I'll get a good shot of a train and it'll give me an excuse to press my mom for more details (the statute of limitations surely must have expired by now).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Chaz,
Look closely under the train bridge. A couple of Mormons lurking ready to clad you in burlap Fruit-of-the-Loonies!
RUN!
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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That's probably what it was.
I can see my mom dealing with those folks "I have TWO f#cking kids already, you're crazy if you think I'm having any more. Christ, we didn't want the last one!"
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Plus, if you use Pinnacles, you can include besides the ultra dangerous rock:
1)heat prostation
2)snakes
3)spiders
4)tarantulas
6)mean rangers
7)vehicle break ins
7)girlfriend break ups
8)buss loads of senior citenzens waiting to die in their un air conditioned bus
9)vultures waiting to pick your bones clean by morning
10)stoned trundlers
11)wicked boy scouts and cub sprouts
12)no food or water for 60 miles
13)carcasses from climbers un found
need I?
He Ring, you have a Belay Card, because I am tired of standing at the counter like a homo. I wanna rip some plastic, man.
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Jason Martin
climber
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Mar 15, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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What about in the alpine? You could have a completely clean line twenty feet from a line that is falling apart...
Sounds a little a few areas you could find in Red Rock Canyon just outside of Las Vegas too...
Jason
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Mar 15, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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Even PNM KNOWS it's choss... Have you seen this?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 15, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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any carpools from the North ( and including, say Walnut Creek) headed to that Pinnacles event?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 23, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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"mean rangers"
not so much anymore. mostly real nice folks keeping an eye on stuff at the parking area so no one rips yer gear.
though a massive kegger wouldn't go off well there.
and what is CD doing these days? does she still climb? guide?
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