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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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Love to hear some stories about this one.
JB, care to honor us with what you were thinking when you discovered this beauty, and how the FA went?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 26, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Gotta love that quin/martin style musical background!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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Jaybro,
Dude, that's porn music man!
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john hansen
climber
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Feb 26, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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I like the fact that he is wearing the old blue and red striped gym socks everyone wore back then.
And did I mention smooth,, no wasted energy there.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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Call me a knuckle head (lots do), but what is the "F12"? Not 5.12 surely. More Monkey is 11-something.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Darshan on More monkey
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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Brian,
When this route was established, JT had its own rating system.
F12 was Yosemite 5.11a/b
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
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THATS INCREDIBLE!!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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The Wolfe guide at the time used a modified NCCS "F" rating system. But no one else (meaning all the climbers) ever used it. We used the YDS.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Yo John, was that link from the TV show "That's Incredible" with Fran Tarkington ? Never realized you were on it. Great stuff, Dude.
D. Nakahira did More Monkey and came off it. Totally blew out his tennis shoe. Never seen anything like it. The shoe Powdered. Just bits of it laying around, seriously and Weird !
Sat at the base of Leave it To Beaver for several days while Dan, Darryl, Randy, Raker ? and others worked to get the crux. Yo made it look like a cruise. Cheers.
Our two kiddos were on "That's Incredible" ...thanks to Maria Cranor and Randy V. Hoist one to Life and all it holds. :D
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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Dang, that was the only guide book that i had when i was climbing there at that time, and i was using the F rating.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:54am PT
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Somewhere in the vaults, I have a photo of myself hanging upside down from a double knee bar on that. I was yelling "hurry up and shoot the damn picture!". Ahh, the good old days, burning stolen palettes, drinking Lucky Lager, observing Christian Griffith strolling around nude, Gunsmoke...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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funny, i always thought yaniro did it first? my memory is plain' tricks on me...pretty sure there's a photo of him on it in one of the old wolfe guides. guess that's where i got the impression.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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I think I top roped it a bunch of times and then soloed it. I don't remember ever leading it with a rope and gear.
I do remember one day with Yabo that was pretty crazy. We were hiking around looking for new boulders and ended up walking back to the car and passing "More Monkey...". It was super hot that day and all of a sudden Yabo decides he wants to solo it!
I stood there and watched. He got out to the lip no problem and pulled onto the vertical thin hands section. It was so sweaty that both his hand jamns melted out and there he was in full "Gaston" position side pulling on the edges of the crack. He couldn't move either hand!
I was freaking out and thinking how I could get the ambulance there after he fell.
Yabo started crying and whimpering. He knew he wasn't going to make it. As a last ditch effort he threw a wild dyno to the flaired slot above the thin hand section. If you know the climb you know this is a long shot. The flaired slot is very hard to grab even if you do it statically!
Anyway he throws his right hand into the back of the slot and it starts sliding out. Amazingly enough his hand sticks at the very bottom of the flair and he realizes he's OK and gives out his famous Yabo giggle!
I couldn't believe my eyes. One second he was crying like a man on death row and seconds later he was laughing out loud....
RIP Yabo old buddy - we miss ya'....
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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haha great story, JB! Seems like that was a theme for you and Yabo! :)
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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Feb 27, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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One funny thing about Bacher's Yabo story is that the first time I ever heard it (around 80 or 81), it was probably about 3rd or 4th generation. But the details were identical - even down to dyno for the flaired slot and the crying becoming a chuckle.
It's funny how some legends are not even as big as the reality that spawned them.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 27, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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That was a fearful lead BITD on lousy hexes. The jams just over the lip are poor.
JL
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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Seems like I remember Mike Paul telling me that story, too. Was he with you, JB, or am I remembering that incorrectly?
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