Uli Biaho-Bill Forrest & Team America Hit the Big Time 1980

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Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 7, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
Team America (Ron Kauk, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz and Bill Forrest) tackles a BIG ONE! Taking Yosemite techniques to the great ranges ala Chouinard and Grand Alpinism! From Climbing #60 May-June 1980.







Nothing left but the 44 rappels!
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Feb 7, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
Ron showed some slides of this adventure at his slideshow at Stanford and it was a lot of fun! Ron even mentioned the T-nuts and how everyone felt compelled to bring them with them since Bill made them but that it fell to Ron to "take care of them" although he didn't elaborate on how.

Thanks for posting this up Steve, goes really nicely with the slideshow from Ron.

-n
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Feb 7, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
I remember seeing a slide show back in the EARLY 80's at Saddleback High School in Santa Ana given by Bill Forrest and what an influence it had on me at the time. Some KILLER slides of the whole trip...I think I remember Bill talking about how Kauk had broken his hand on the approach, but it didn't stop the team from ultimate success. Never mentioned the Tnuts thing at the time, but man this slide show really got me pumped at the time.
Peace
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
I have been working away upstairs thinking about this expedition and how it must have been like an endless episode of Bonanza up there!

If Ron doesn't post up on this thread, I have friends within rock throwing distance of his peaceful palace and a mole on the inside! LOL
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 7, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
The real thing boys, the real thing!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 7, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
If anybody sees Munge around, ask him what the anchor is on the 7th pitch, I keep forgetting.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
That's Titon and the biggest one would blow a big hole in the wall!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 7, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
At Ron's slideshow at Stanford January 26, he had all those photos (and more), but in color!

2. East Face (VII, 5.11d, A4, 1000m, 34 pitches) Bill Forrest, Ron Kauk, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz; 24 June - 5 July 1979, first ascent to the summit (AAJ 53, vol.22 no.2 1980, p. 405 „The Obvious Line – Uli Biaho” John Roskelley)
from
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,593,0,1,mountains.html

and the slideshow thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=768433
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 10:45am PT
Uli Biumpo!
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
Mar 3, 2009 - 11:38am PT
I got to see Bill Forrest's slide show in 1983 or so. A visionary climb fer sure. I've heard some interesting comments about John Roskelly's intensity towards the top as he tied off knife blades and ice screws.
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
Mar 3, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
Hey Walleye

Ron told me that Forest actually sent him a bill for the hucked scrap aluminium. After being drug to the summit, and back down alive while suffering from C.E. you would think he would let it go. No one uses those things anyway.

Scole
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 3, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
America, F-ck yeah!

Somebody had to....
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 3, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
how does Ron Kauk always climb with his long hair hanging down and it never, ever gets sweaty, sticks to his face, gets in his eyes, flys into his mouth, or causes him any problems at all... How the hell is this possible!? I have never heard of it getting into his belay device while rappeling either...

I haven't learned the trick yet...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 4, 2009 - 12:57am PT
He does many things, that rest of us, just can't do....
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 4, 2009 - 01:00am PT
Perhaps a little birdie can help with some of these questions...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 19, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
go america.
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Mar 19, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
Read much about this ascent in Roskelly's EXCELLENT book, though I forget the title at the moment.
Ray-J

Social climber
socal
Sep 23, 2009 - 11:20am PT
Uli big boy bump - awesome!
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Sep 23, 2009 - 11:32am PT
How did I ever miss this awesome thread? So glad to catch it this time!
I remember how impressed I was by these hard dudes' ascent of beautiful Uli Biaho. BITD I thought it was the real deal, I still do.



Thank you Steve, once again, for starting some of the most inspirational threads
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
I went to Bill's slide show of this trip at the old Holubar in Denver. The place was packed with local stars, Briggs, Erickson, and I think Ament to name a few. I used to have a signed copy of the poster version of that first picture on my office wall. That was a truly hardcore trip, Bill's name should be up there with the best of them when icon's are talked about. I have heard some people say "he's an aid guy right?". Follow him up his seminal route on the Painted Wall and see what you think. I'm a big fan.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
I really wish I hadnt thrown all my old Mountain and Climbing mags in the trash. There is some gold to find in those old issues.
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Sep 23, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
So has anyone else read Roskelley's book? Care to weigh in? I thought it was seriously rad.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Sep 23, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
Uli Biaho was a great climb, for sure! The stories of Roskelley being such a hard ass (as in hard to get along with) were only true if you talked better than you walked. After spending eight days climbing the East Face of Tawoche with John in 1989, I can look back and say he was one of my all-time best climbing partners. Although politically we're on opposite ends of the spectrum, we got along great and had a fine time on an incredible climb.

-Jello
Ray-J

Social climber
socal
Sep 23, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
Maybe time for a Bill Forrest appreciation thread...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
And a timely Bump!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Sep 12, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
I remember this article. Amazing effort in many ways.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
Bill Bump!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 3, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
This definitely deserves a bump! RIP Bill

Avery

climber
NZ
Dec 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
Excellent Thread, Steve.
Avery

climber
NZ
Dec 23, 2014 - 04:52pm PT

1980 American Alpine Journal.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
Bump for Kim Schmitz and Team America now reduced by half...Much respect for Kim and Bill.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 10:59am PT
Grade VII bump...
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Oct 31, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
Uli Biaho - Google Images

Panoramic view
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Oct 31, 2018 - 09:38pm PT
Had this tower as a wall paper on my computer for several years. Very inspiring!!!!! Admittedly I'm not man enough for it though. Props!!!!

S....
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Nov 1, 2018 - 06:06am PT
I don't think it gets climbed much. It's definitely scary to look at. Although in a way it reminds me of the Twin Owls.
Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic
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