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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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NekedMan™ ???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The Naked Edge….
Has anybody “streaked” it??? …seems like a natural.
Most parties are fully clothed.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Some people call him "Naked Edge Dave".
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Tar, the man for all reasons
It's a 'natural'. . .
Ha ha ha!
I don't know if you meant it that way, but it sure
hit my funnybone!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Been up it just twice, not much for a local, led all the pitches both times.
But that’s not where the story is …
First time up, 95° weather and two partners: Deanne Gray and a fellow named Scott.
I put the hydration plan together; one Budweiser between the three of us.
We shared the beer at the top of the finger crack. Deanne said if that pitch was in Yosemite Valley, it would be 5.10c…
For the chimney pitch, I had to knock my cowboy hat off onto its chin strap and let it hang on my back. Scott was dehydrated for a week afterwards. What price glory?
Second time up was a doozy. My friend Kiyoshi Yoshida, during his wedding reception, asked if I would get him up The Naked Edge and of all things, on the day following his nuptial.
Also of note, during his speech at the reception, he made conspicuous mention that he was glad to be married to a woman whose parents were based out of Boulder and looked forward to doing many climbs here! Now where were his priorities…
So there he was in his white tuxedo & bowtie, politely requesting the tour of The Edge. Who was I to refuse him? Of course I said yes; then Sue Wint asked if she could join. Kiyoshi, in gracious fashion, accommodated. That was a mistake and I knew it when it happened, because Kiyoshi needed to accomplish the route on a tight schedule.
We dispatched the climb without a hitch except that we were over budget time-wise and Kiyoshi missed meeting Nori at the airport for their flight out. I was standing next to him while he made the fated phone call: like right out of a cartoon or an old movie, he held the handset a good foot away from his ear and from where I stood, I could all too easily hear his new bride angrily screeching away, giving him his first matrimonial come-uppins.
As this was happening, Kiyoshi graciously stood there, lightly clutching the handset and giving me the one eye … Not good. Not my fault. I just did what was asked and got my team up The Edge!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Tarbuster 'gets her done'!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Some shots from the chimney pitch - still gets my pulse rate up every time... :-)
Pics by Dr. Dirk
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Good ones, Tarbuster. I figured there might be a few stories.
Warbler:
Never did the Diving Board, don't think anybody had when I was living in the Canyon.
Not much of a claim to fame but ... I think I was the only witness to Roger Briggs' FFA
of the top pitch (his belayer was back in that cave). I had just soloed an easy route,
Anthill, which starts out of sight but near the top has a grandstand view of Diving Board.
When I realized that history was happening right across from me, I just sat back and watched.
There was a fair bit of loose rock on the route in those days, and Roger made a real
breakthrough lead.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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My impressions of The Naked Edge:
First pitch finger crack, quality locks ‘n straightforward, with one cruxy reach where it pinches down.
Pitch two: airy face climbing up to an arête followed by some tricky 10 plus incipient crack moves.
Intermediate pitches…
Chimney pitch: I find the greasy face moves protected by old pins to be the most insecure and technically strange part of the route. Protecting while in the chimney is awkward, and exiting is definitely a place where you could blow it.
Last crux pitch: bouldery sequence on solid finger locks requires a good eye to set up for it right, so that the crossover moves go smoothly…pay no attention to that exposure, or savor it if that’s your thing!!! Subsequent tight hands jamming is solid and undertaken in a most thrilling arena.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jeff Lowe and Nancy Prichard,
After an ascent of The Naked Edge, circa 1990
Raising a victory Sheaf Stout!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nice pictures, Dave! I was just thinking, in a lifetime of pickup basketball, I probably haven't made 109 freethrows.
btw - I always had a harder time on the 1st pitch than the chimney pitch or finishing hand crack.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Chubby fingers? Nawhhh....
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Yah, the first pitch finger locks get pretty darn small for those of us with 'chubby' fingers... only tips in a few spots fer sure dude
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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If I knew I was going to die next week I'd go out and do The Naked Edge, Astroman and the West Face of El Cap.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Maybe you should just in case...
I mean, what a stellar alibi.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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The modern challenge would be to get a corporate jet sponsor and do Astroman and the Naked Edge in the same day... Where's that Donald guy with the bad hair when you need him??
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oh come on Brassnuts if you want the Donald to sponsor you will have to up the anti. How about Astroman, Astrodog and the Naked edge?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Naw! You can't speed climb those routes! You have to savour them!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there chiloe... wow, it looks great!....
say, each of them other pictures share, sure do to!...
thanks for the share... i am writing, so i will, as always, lately, have to come back to see them all... and read more...
really really nice, though...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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I rarely used to repeat routes, but the Edge was one of the exceptions. Probably did it an average of once a year between '74 and early'90's. The Diving Board was good, too, on the right, and Jules Verne on the left, but the Edge always retained pride of place and variety. My favorite climbs in Colorado were the Edge, Prayer Book (aka Wunsch's Dihedral) on Cynical Pinnacle, Childhood's End on Big Rock, and in the Mountains the Yellow Wall on Longs and Wilford's and my own Risky Business on Chief's Head. Didn't get around to doing Astroman in the Valley and the Prow on Cathedral Ledge (NH)'till the late 80's All of these climbs are all-time classics. I only rarely did more obscure climbs that were as good or better.
-JelloIsJonesin'
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