Old Walls, Excalibur, Deuce Inspired


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Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
Deuce has inspired me to not care so much about what order everything is in and whether it's all captioned or not.
Just get 'em up there!

Here's the first installment. I'll have to finish later.

Thanks for looking.


Hobart, Australia
Jan 30, 2009 - 02:54pm PT

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Very nice photos!
Thanks for sharing.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Next installment.

You can see another party in these pix once in awhile.

Social climber
Ruby Range
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
This is pretty cool.
Thanks for all the picss.

Trad climber
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
Fire one Tommy Caldwell to Free climb this route...

Hobart, Australia
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
Cool pics. Really can see why it was rarely climbed before the advent of the mongo cams. Like the old garb.

Say, I was glad to see the pic of the Spider's Web. I never had the inclination to take out the camera at this point, but always look up at the thing. It would make a cool climb out the center of it.


Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
Yeah John,
I have always loved the spiders web too.

Free climbing..you bet.
Tommy C. , Steve Schneider whoever.

I thought it was burly enough just to free up to 5.10 something!

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
A few more and a few later!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 30, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
Ah yes, the ghetto blaster in the Round Table - I love that picture of yours. I brought my ghetto blaster too, and of course my coffee press.

How did yous guys outwit the offwidths? You can see how we did it in the portaledge photo above....

Nice photos, mate! Thanks for posting.

I still think Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi is one of the most amazing places ever on El Cap - I love it! Then again, I'm a caver.....

You can click here to read [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Two_Ugly_Dudes_on_Day_11_-_Photo_1_of_5_5645.html"]a little photo essay on Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi on Excalibur.[/url]
Double D

Jan 30, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Way cool!

But what's up with the speedo's?


Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 30, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
x-o-lente!!! Great photos, just goes to show,
who cares about the small details! Just get them
posted! Looks like you had a blast, although I pefer
boxers! Freedom in the hills!!!!


P.S. That is a big cam, Pass the Pitons!

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 30, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
really, families surf here!

nice, well not, 'stuff', but cool pictures!

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jan 30, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
Thanks for posting the great pics. The quality of the photos is so good, my connection keeps crashing trying to keep up with them.

Excalibur is a great, unheralded line on El Cap. Except for the loose choss in the Slack chimney at the start of the route, the rock is stellar, and the isolation from other routes keeps it from seeming like just another freeway in a crowded lithopolis.

Another bonus is seeing each photo and reliving that portion of the route, sorta like a web-based time machine.


Here are my captions for Survival's TR up Excalibur. Basically, I've tried to be accurate in pinpointing the location of each photo, based on memory.

And, what a great trip back into the past I've just had.

Jugging from the base

Jugging the haul ropes, left of the Slack

Fixed ropes over the Slack roof

Belaying the traverse pitch from the top of the Slack

Rivet ladder, about P5-P6

Union Climbers hauling the Fake Blast fixed ropes to Heart Ledge

P6, a Charlie Porter kb/rurp masterpiece

not sure; the pitch above Guenivere's Bed bivy ledge?

unknown, but high on the route; say, within three pitches of the Round Table bivy.

P4, moving left out from under the Slack roof.

P4, moving left, out from under the Slack roof.

The P4-P5 rivet ladder?

Start of P7, with the Holy Grail within sight/reach

About halfway up, possibly Lancelot's Slot.


Glass Slab, P25, only one more to the summit.

P9, a clean, no smears, overhanging 5.12 OW that is also challenging at C1


Excalibur tops out at the Salathe Tree, but comes in on an orthogonal line

Horsetail Falls bathing facility (same as Camp 4: no hot water)


Higher up on P24, waking up, out of Frosty's Bivy


East Ledges Descent, just after the scary slab traverse at the Wild Dikes

unknown, some tree with a rope tied to it


Rope leading to the Round Table bivy (oooh, what a nice spot that was!)

Looking down from the Round Table


P26, the pitch to the summit

On the summit, west of the Salathe Tree

Jugging to Frosty's Bivy

P10, entering the maw of the monster

P7, the monster has not yet reared its beautiful, wide self


Slack chimney?

P24, coming out of Frosty's Bivy

P24, some really, really, good rock here, by the way


Guenivere's Bed ledge

Apology Edit: I don't think anybody but me is going to look at the captions, and then compare them to the photos. There is some sort of web-tech that can do this, but, I'm not the guy to do it.

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Jan 30, 2009 - 11:28pm PT

Jan 30, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
Good job survival, Excalibur is a beaut.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Thanks Werner.

PTPP, we only had three "big" pieces. You can see me "jugging" one of the wide pitches, and basically taking a 3 piece anchor up the whole pitch with no pro!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Hey, Thor, Tom makes those mighty cams.....

He can be your CamSmith.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2009 - 12:02am PT
One more bunch for the party.


Trad climber
Memphis, TN
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:21am PT
Super nice! I love the randomness of it all. You never know what's below. Kinda like life, I guess. ;)

Time and age are running out on me. Maybe I can get a wall in before it's too late.
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