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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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I remember Jean Marc, sometimes after meetings or technical sessions, would decide it was time "to go sculpting" and he'd merrily set forth with his knives and various tools, sculpting the voluminous surface shapes of panels (out of some kind of latex foam I believe), adding strange fish gill like adornments, & curious fossil impressions, artistically imposing climbing hold riddled surfaces fit for crimping and palming...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:29am PT
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Photo by Anne Marie Weber TKO images
from outside Magazine January 1991
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:37am PT
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Then, after Jean Marc entertained his sculpting, the latex would be peeled and a negative made; a sand mixture with resin, woven roven matrix, combined: all kinds of labor-intensive, time sensitive teamwork procedures would follow.
(Ask Billy about real details if you need some!)
Everybody wearing masks and goggles and protections,
Sort of an oddball Willy Wonka Chocolate Factory climbing panel birthing scenario...
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 30, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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You bring back memories, Tar. I had overbooked myself for that one. Hired Jim to run the show in Berkeley-with you, Billy and Paul in charge of the wall-and went off to Pakistan to free climb Trango Tower with Catherine: Breashears directing and Bridwell rigging, for the ABC crew. Although the climb and film were successful, and the competition was an artistic success, both lost money and led to business and personal bankruptcy.
Wild times. One of my "...magnificent failures..."
Hoooo...Boyyyy...!
-JelloBegsForgiveness
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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But we were all shooting for the stars!!!
A chance to build a livelihood in our industry together; a tightknit crew reaching big 'n sharing outrageous efforts and having really quite a grand time with it...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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(I've since worked harder for less...hahaha!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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... and no forgiveness needed Jello; not on my watch.
This is a tribute to wild times and grand strivings!!!
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 30, 2009 - 12:52am PT
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I helped with some of the setup backstage and remember a short bit of shoving and yelling between the local union boss and the leader of our volunteer group about who would set up the warm-up wall.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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The union guys!
Good one monolith.
Here's some of their muscle at the Greek Theatre:
I think I was on the roof during that altercation, um, I mean disagreement of which you speak... so I had pretty good seating for that backstage show.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 30, 2009 - 12:58am PT
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You're extremely generous, Roy. Thanks for owning your share of it all. I've always felt guilty for not having been there at Berkeley. But my presence wouldn't have made the outcome different. Still would have been a world-class, sparsely attended event.
-Jeff
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Hope you're hanging in there Jeff.
Howard Stern showed up for this thing ....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Yes well Jeff,
I realize you were kind of tied up and stuff.
A guy has to make a living while the troops wage battle yes?
(Very supply intensive this stuff: you had to feed it somehow)
You did miss out on Lynn Hill's really sexy Capri Lycra.
White with some sort of lingerie like adornment ...
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all in jim
climber
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Jan 30, 2009 - 01:16am PT
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Thanks for the memories Roy.
I can still remember tagging my highpoint on the men's slabby qualifier. It must have been at least eight feet up. You could jump to establish your highpoint and pass other climbers who may have climbed higher but didn't jump. All I remember is starting up and feeling like I was going to grease off every move and I kept thinking "should I jump now?".
That was quite a venue for a climbing comp - I don't think anything has equaled it since.
Jim Thornburg
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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I think we did two comps prior in Seattle right Jeff?
This might be from the Seattle Rock Comp, or maybe Nationals.
(I think nationals were in Boulder, it's all a blur)
Remember kids, we're talking the end of the 80s
... when guys wore pink:
Here I'm making routine calls to line up rental trucks to get everything back home.
(This is right after I dinged the rental car, when Rosemary and I got back from picking out ribbons for the medals)
Paul & Billy, taking in some R&R before showtime:
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Jan 30, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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I got a lift to that comp from Salt Lake by Pete Takeda, we stopped in Donner Summit and did some pitches on the way. Tied for 11th with Tim Wagner missing the finals, then went out to Mickey's beach for some climbing. Hitched a ride back to SLC with Kurt Smith and Mike Pont, took a bong hit in the back of Kurt's toyota van. Good times and great memories from the pictures (I have not seen Jennifer Cole in years!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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Sibley and I were absolute workaholic slave drivers on these things.
He could put the hammer down like no other; and I encouraged it!
During this Seattle Rock Comp, we pulled a 52 hour shift, slept two hours, then Paul got on a plane and I headed the truck team back to Colorado.
On one of those binges, the one that Kurt Smith remembers,
Jeff or maybe that Green Beret guy, what was his name, the CFO or Controller or something ...
One of you Big Cheese Boss Guys looked at me and said:
"So take it easy with the boys on the crew for the drive home, Roy, right?"
And Kurt remembers this: I think I had the hots for Nancy Prichard, I mean...who didn't (If you had a pulse) so I pushed the crew to get all the way to The City of Rocks by morning.
I'm quite sure Kurt was hallucinating at the wheel (of the great big rental truck with the expensive wall in the back).
So we pulled over and got a room, like six of us, and I think we just giggled straight for about 40 minutes before falling asleep!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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This is the wall at the first Seattle Comp,
I can tell because of the orange triangular structure;
At the second one we had a sort of amorphous blob in its place.
Getting that blob to stick under the overhang was no mean feat.
And the whole wall was stuck to the scaffolding by these wires no thicker than coat hangers.
No problem; Sibley researched it. It was "Call". Lots of them though...
As an organizer/worker/need to know guy,
I always seemed to find a reason to go to the gal's isolation and flirt.
Here's Shelley Presson Dunbar:
And this is the hot South American number that Bobbi Bensman had wrapped around her little finger:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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Feel free to comment on any of these comps.
There was a ton of energy; things were really changing and this was a happening deal.
I love to hear memories!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:52am PT
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Geoff Wiegand was a course setter at the Seattle comp. (Again, Nationals I think, the second one).
Bobbi Bensman and Allison Osius were head-to-head and it was super exciting.
Geoff knew just how to wring out what they each had to offer.
At one point, his setting skills had Bobbi completely sideways at the lip of the roof.
Superpowerful stuff…
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