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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
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I'm thinking maybe 2013-15 ish...
I have a good way to go before I am ready to take something like this on, however I would like to have a goal to shoot for and having bought Mark Synnott's guidebook, well, I've got the bug.
I have a basic understanding of the concepts involved in a trip like this; I have a good handle on backpacking, and am solid leading on easier routes (7s and 8s) exposure notwithstanding.
My question is how do I get from status quo to being ready for Baffin? I know that it's not just a matter of improving my climbing ability (although that is part of it...)because if it was I would just get out and climb as much as I can, get stronger, faster etc and then go for it.
If I can pretty regularly onsight 5.10, then I think that would allow me enough options to have a good time, so that's what I'm shooting for there. Its the other stuff, I'm more interested in knowing about. Honestly I would guess that I need to know what questions to ask before I can start asking them...
Pretty obvious I guess, but I feel confident about mastering information, techniques and systems if I know that in doing so, all my bases will be covered.
The things I am thinking about are related to glacier travel and what extent I would be encountering them (assuming a trip from Overlord to Summit Lake)
Weather...what is the most accommodating time of year? My understanding is that it's easier to get in before break up...but if its really cold, how does one expect their fingers to operate?
Aside from the basic gear you would pack for an ordinary trek, what pieces of gear would you consider essential? Is a three season tent ok at any point in the year or is that out of the question?
Ok I will see what you all think. For what it's worth I am not one to go bare-@$$ed out into a serious undertaking after reading a column in Outsider Magazine or something. I am serious about doing this and I would like to be pointed in the right direction to start learning what I need to know.
Thanks.
Steve
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nature
climber
Somewhere else....
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Dec 10, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
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When I went to the Vampire Spires it became apparent to me how all of my organizing paid off. Not forgetting sh#t because I made list after list. We had a certain amount of weight the chopper could carry so my list included weight of each and every item. I might have been overly anal and overly organized. It might have taken some of the (adventure) fun out of it. But once were there there for the month it was pretty nice having everything we needed and very very little we didn't.
Learn to use a spreadsheet is one tip I can offer.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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Thats sound advice. I am pretty anal, hence getting a five year jump on populating all those lists!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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I've been there a couple of times, and will post up my thoughts in a couple of days. Right now I'm pulling an all-nighter to meet the deadline for my December publication and can only grab a minute here and there to check ST.
But I think the best advice ever given to someone enquiring about how to prepare for a major expedition was given by Bill Tilman about fifty years ago: "Put on your boots and go."
Of course, it's worth pointing out that people who take that advice fall into two groups: Those who survive the trip, and those who don't.
More in a couple of days. In the meantime, here something to whet your appetite. It's the upper end of the Coronation Fiord, not terribly hard to get to, and still completely unclimbed as far as I know
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Some large rocks in the sun, there,Ghost.
Large....Hey, Jeremy, look.
No Mud!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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I spent all day at work just thinking about this monumental undertaking. Made the time go by pretty fast. I like that about just putting on your boots and going. I just want to make sure I dont get there and realize I dont have the requisite skills to make the trip worth my while since I know getting there costs an arm and a leg...
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 11, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
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Definitely do a trip to a place like the Bugaboos first. There are a lot of less remote places that are a good place to go first, especially for a 5.8 climber.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Dec 11, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
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Actually, you can go to Baffin FREE......
It's a REAL Lonnng walk, though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 11, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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So, if you have to ask, then well, you know already.
But with that said, I've seen some crazy sh#t pulled off by all kinds of skill levels.
have fun in the sufferfests. do lots of mini sufferfests before you go.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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i am actually cheap enough that i have considered some sort of insanely long trek as opposed to the faster, more dollar intensive routes...i guess there is no 'dirtbag' path for this adventure? or is there just no one talking about it...
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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I have been doing some research and was wondering about a sled/kayak setup for traveling in...loading a kayak with gear and pulling it on skis or snowshoes and then paddling where necessary.
can anyone give feedback on this?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 14, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Baffin-
Two good buds o mine put a route up there a few years back. Josh Thompson climbed El Cap 17 or 18 times that year to prepare, includeing winer ascents. Which he said were the most important part of his prep work. I would say master the big climbs out here, i.e. Half Dome, El Cap, Conness, Dark Star, Keeler Needle, Mendel Couloir, North Peak Ice, V-notch, U-Notch, Incredible Hulk, etc... Be solid and well preped on grade IV-VI climbs and alpine ice first. Have fun, BECAREFUL!!!! The polar bears will try to eat you.
P
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Dec 14, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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Porkchop, without getting to into it. In 1978, two friends and I put a trip to Baffin together in about 5 days. Flew out of Montreal on the cheap. Landed in Pang and spent two weeks waiting for the fiord to clear of ice. No sleds, or boats to Overlord because of ice break up. That left two weeks for the hike in and climbing.
With only a few Valley Grade Vs, Canadian Rockies and a lot of cragging and ice climbing we were way in over our heads as we put in minor route on the Diagonal Buttress of Thor. We ran out of water, ran out of food, and had a damn good time.
We had hoped to get into Asgard but the walking was torture and time had run out. We didn't see any bears, but the arctic hares are as big as a small bear. My partners returned the next year and spent 30+ torturous days on Thor's West Face, only to finally be stormed off two thirds of the way up.
To prep, climb in the cold, climb in the rain, climb in the snow, climb with a pack, big boots, climb, climb climb. Then find someone crazy enough to share the goal.
Good luck. RC
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