Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
|
Okay, the last pair that had the displeasure of my feet were La Sportiva Megas. I did not really care for them. Loved the fit of the Fire's and regret sending them to shoe heaven. What is out there that fits like the old Fires? I'm knott looking for something to get me up V12 or short sport climbs. Just a good all arounder that can be worn all day. I've got my eyes on the Acopa JB's. I really don't want the radical dropped toes thing. What I'm looking for is a sneaker on steroids.
|
|
Churningindawake
Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
|
Five-Ten Anasazi Velcros or Galileos are both comfortable fitting shoes. You can wear them in your street shoe size, and still maintain good performance.
|
|
S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
|
plastic boots with crampons, edge like a mofo, and if there isnt an edge you can make one!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
|
The Acopa Aztec's are pretty good. The JB sounds like what you're looking for.
5.10 Spire is a good all around shoe too.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
|
I like my spires.Cheap & perform well.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
|
Well.......Story for another day, perhaps.
|
|
luggi
Trad climber
atwater california
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
|
Don't buy off the net unless you know and really know your size and manufacture...go to a shop pay with some dead presidents and move on...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
|
Sounds like you have wide feet, start with 5.10's. Many stores allow you to actually not only try on shoes before you buy them, but also try them on some sort of wall with holds.
|
|
rich sims
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:28am PT
|
Neptune’s
Lets you take them out on the stone.
Or homies CTs, work really good for say size foot LOL
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:43am PT
|
at one point i intended to buy the Acopa JBs but the toes didnt work well for me-- i tried a pair of red chilis and LOVED them. Perfect fit without the aggressive toe. Very durable and lots of feedback when climbing.
|
|
FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:44am PT
|
Acopa Legends or JB's! Booyah!
Acopa for life!
|
|
rich sims
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:09am PT
|
Acopa JBs high tops for sale . I wear them for one day and toes are trashed for three. Went back to aces
and resoled my jazzes
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:11am PT
|
Rich, just what ARE you doing with all those odd gadgets? Did you make a trip to Corsica and rob the nut museum?
|
|
rich sims
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:16am PT
|
I moved and was forced to go though boxes packed away for too long.
I was looking for my aid gear.
|
|
jbar
Ice climber
(home description... adjective, adjective, sensor
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:28am PT
|
john, if you're not in a hurry then check out the snooz at your local shops. When you find a pair you like then hit the net and see if you can find a deal.
I get most of my shoes "only worn once" because my local shop has the bad habit (good for selling lots of shoes) of insisting all the new climbers buy one size smaller than normal shoe size. Well not everyone wears the correct size of shoes and all shoes are not the same.
bump I love Neptune. They have great deals sometimes.
|
|
samg
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:28am PT
|
I love the JB's for edging and for hand to OW cracks, but I've been climbing a lot of friction slabs and they seem a bit stiff right now for smearing. Not sure if it is because of a long break in period or if they are going to stay that way.
Aztecs on the other hand I love for everything and the toe works a lot better in finger cracks.
Both shoes fit my feet really well, the Aztecs perform great, much better than most all day shoes imho but are still super comfy.
I like a lot of Sportiva shoes also but as of now prefer Acopas.
|
|
Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 01:36am PT
|
Does anybody make custom climbing shoes?
thanks
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 02:33am PT
|
Those Convos are the bomb!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 02:59am PT
|
I like Acopa...
Aztecs and Chameleons are best for "all around" climbing, JBs when I'm doing a lot of crack climbing from foot to OW. The JBs aren't great for sticking into toe sized cracks, but they are for stepping up on little edges.
My Aztecs are trashed now, after 1 resole and 2 years of hard use. My Chameleons are still doing well after 2 years.
Both of these were "custom" made, with left foot size 10 and right 9.5, for a very little amount more.
I purchased the JBs having Acopa send me a couple of pairs for sizing, picked the 10.5s and sent the others back (no need for separate sizes! Thanks Lisa!!). The fit was for OW... JBs aren't going to make you happy smearing though. If I was going to use them for edging I'd have gotten them tighter... but after asking Acopa first for their recommendations.
Acopa sizing is pretty much "street shoe" size. Amazing concept that.
My only problem with the JBs is that the rand is pretty well trashed, after less than a year. My technique isn't great in OW, at least at the grades and climbs we've been working. I'm guessing that this could improve with time. Don't have that problem with my Kaukulators....
You can get Kaukulators on eBay if you're patient (or ask scuffy_b if he's got a pair). This is another option for a board-lasted high-top. Not a great smearing shoe either.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 10:54pm PT
|
Wow, humorous stuff here. Rich; tubes and bongs are a blast from the past.
Other than REI (pathetic selection), what shops are left to try on the shoooz? I live in south Orange county, So Cal. Guess I need to head up to Bishop and Mammoth. I definitely agree that one needs to find what fits in the shop and not on line. Prefer shopping the locals when possible, it just seems the mom and pop shops are (sadly) gone. It just seems there are no local outlets that offer a decent selection.
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 12:23am PT
|
Try A16 in Costa Mesa or Oceanside- probably a little better than REI. Nomad Ventures in Escondido or Temecula is probably the best choice, or swing by the JT location on your way to the Park.
In large part, you are having trouble finding a good 'mom & pop' store because too many people have gone to REI. Buy from local outfitters- stay away from big-box corporate monsters like REI. And tell a friend to do the same.
|
|
nature
climber
Somewhere else....
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2008 - 02:10am PT
|
Bachar is hanging out around here chatting up his shoes so I went out and bought a pair. I was looking to get the JB's but got the Chameleon instead. The JB's didn't fit my foot right. I wear a size 9 street shoe. It wasn't until I had a pair of size 11's on that they felt comfy. I still might buy a pair though...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2008 - 02:37am PT
|
I like my JB's and wear a 1/2 size larger than my street shoes.
I generally wear unusually small, tight shoes.
When in doubt go with Mythos, they do it all. for reference, I wear 38.5 in those.
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2008 - 09:09am PT
|
Choice should be based on fit and function.
What will you be doing?
Smearing?
Edging?
Toe jamming?
Throwing at Bush?
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2008 - 09:22am PT
|
I think she dates the Fish, I'd watch out on that one. He could reek havoc.
Prod.
|
|
kc
Trad climber
lg, ca
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2008 - 10:33am PT
|
Me, I like the Scarpa Techno. It has a great fitting boot, good edges, great rubber for slab, a fairly low toe profile, and it's a tiny bit stiffer in the midsole so it helps me when jamming finger cracks. My boyfriend bought them (big feet!)also and likes them. I'd get them a third or half size (yep, they do third sizes!) larger because despite the fact that they are unlined, they haven't really stretched out much. Weirdly, REI is carrying them this season (or at least at the one I go to in the Bay Area), so you might be able to check them out. Good luck!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!