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karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 12, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
BBA aka WA, The hammer you show is shown in the 1958 Dolt catalog but I do not believe that Dolt created this hammer. He only sold it. All of the Dolt items in the catalogs that are Dolt made are listed as Dolt. This hammer he wrote "This is a hammer made for rock climbers." It is available in 16 ounce or 20 ounce weight. In 1958-1960 Dolt distributed/retailed a lot of other manufacturers stuff. I believe the hammer you show was mfgd in Europe. The Dolt hammers from 1967 models 22M, 22R, 17M, 17R are one piece made of steel with a rubber handle grip. I have yet to see a Dolt created hammer that has a wood handle. Maybe somebody out there has evidence that Dolt manufactured hammers pre 1966?

Your hammer still has value for sure! Dolt however received the hammers then personally wrapped shiny black tape on the wood handle just under the hammer head so the head did not come loose. I wonder if that tape is still present on your hammer? Your hammer handle looks original.

Rock on! Marty
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Aug 12, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
This is an excellent thread.
BBA

climber
OF
Aug 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
I merely scanned the hammer on my HP G3110 flatbed. I don't know why the one area shows red, unless it is the eye of the devil which often shows out in technological products. The hammer is 10 5/8" (10.625) stem to stern. It could be a little longer, like 10.666 inches if you count the nubs at the end.

In the spirit of science I started to take off the black tape to see how things looked under there, but it has become a fused mass, rather like 70 year old cabling in underfloor conduits I have encountered.

The hammer does have value. I still use it to beat the crap out of anything needing it in my yard, rocks, concrete, ...

WAmborn

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 12, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
BBA, The hammer you have is a beautiful piece! Thank you so much for showing it to us. If you ever have an itch to get rid of it, I know this Dolt addict in Arizona that is looking for one. It's cool that you remembered that your hammer did not have the tape on it when you first purchased it.

Do you know what year you purchased the hammer?

Rock on! Marty
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Aug 12, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
Since we have some Longware in here, maybe it is good time to see a shot of Dr Long and Steck at the Nose Reunion. Two of my heroes as a kid growing up in Berkeley.

Along with Roper these old boys made the 3rd ascent of the Salathe.

I always thought Dick Long was the most natural and talented climber I had ever seen.

BBA

climber
OF
Aug 13, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
I took some time and removed the tape. It was what I call exacto-ing work. And I apologize for erring in not remembering the original tape on the handle. In the layers of tape I removed, there were two types. When you look at the scan you can see where the lighter wood near the hammer head is, and that had some really old tape. That wood is mostly unscarred except near the head where I missed pitons and it crunched the metal into the wood. On top of the old tape was my meta bundle of tape, and you can see the lines where it ended down the handle a bit. This fits into what pictures by others in the thread have said was the way the Dolt taped the handle.

I saved samples of the two tapes, but really don't want to put them on the glass of my scanner.

OK, so there are four pictures, the last one being a close up of the side of the hammer head. It is hard to read, but it has to be "HOLUBAR". The only letter that is missing entirely is the "H".

The other question is, when did I buy the hammer? I started climbing in October 1958, and did my first route at Tahquitz on March 28, 1959 according to a pen and ink entry in my old guidebook. I therefore purchased the hammer between those dates, most likely in December 1959 as I went on a desert trip in early January of 1959.

So, my fortune is assured! What am I bid for this priceless treasure!

Bill Amborn


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 15, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
Bill,
Is that O in HOLUBAR struck with a double outline to look like a carabiner or something?

I wonder who forged the head? Holubar definitely sold cromoly sheet ringless angles so they shifted towards hard steel products for a short while before abandoning hardware sales entirely.

What did you climb or attempt on your desert trip?
BBA

climber
OF
Aug 15, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
Steve - I was of two minds on that "O", either what you said or the happenstance of random marks plus a straight line of the "H" before and of the "L" after making the "O" look special. The head was stamped on both sides, but it didn't help me. I took a strong light to the face along with a magnifying glass, but nothing for sure came out. So I need stronger light or magnification or eyes or all three.

OK, I just made a rubbing of it on one side and it shows out better. For my eyes it only says HOLUBAR, the "O" is nothing special. Blow it up and you'll see. If you want an e-mail with the original scan of the rubbing, let me know.

I believe the winter trip from UCLA included the Chiricahuas, Cochise Stronghold and ended up at Monument Peak, the first ascent of which is also in that 1940 Sierra Club Bulletin I sent to you. And, by the way, your scan and post of the Shiprock first ascent was very nicely done. The original write up added to the thread - especially the art work.

Bill Amborn

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 15, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
Thanks for the detective work! HOLUBAR plain and simple.

Did you guys climb anything in the Chiricahuas or Cochise Stronghold?

The Shiprock article is superb. Thanks again!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Aug 15, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
Is there a remote chance Stubai made the hammers for Holubar?

In the late 50s and early 60s I think the only "stores" where we could purchase climbing gear were: The Ski Hut, Gerry, Holubar and the orig REI at 523 Pike St Seattle. I purchased a great deal of gear via Sporthaus Shuster in Munich.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 15, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
That is exactly the sort of source connections I would love to sort out!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Aug 15, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
What the hell are we doing sitting home on a beautiful Sun night " messing about" on ST?

We could be at the pub, in church, or even out climbing. I did spend the afternoon with my daughter, better than all the above combined.

cheers

Guido
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 15, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
I spent a little time restoring the mirror finish on one of Ken Boche's Cobra hooks. Almost there...

BooDawg

Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
Aug 15, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
I'm with Guido; I spent the last 2 weeks with my daughter searching for the right college, and it was one of the best connections I've had with her.

Steve, I'm SO PLEASED to see you haven't been idle since our meeting and hand-off on Thursday night. Can't wait to see what you do with the DoltPeg that came with the Cobra!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 17, 2010 - 01:38am PT
No long wait required!


Ken Boche's early run Dolt piton.

Ken's long thick horizontal below my later run Doltpin from the early seventies.


As Ken pointed out the delicate anvil on the piton would lead to an eye strike with any glancing blow so Dolt widened it considerably while still retaining the characteristic D eyeshape.



Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Aug 17, 2010 - 11:32am PT
I posted these photos in the "Help with Vintage Pitons" thread. I think they belong here as well.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 17, 2010 - 11:45am PT
Love the "DOLT-TEX" on the belay seat label!

Ken- Based on the level of finish on your Doltpin I assume that it originally had a dark, hot oil finish much like mine rather than a bright polish. The rails are very smooth but the rest has lots of hand in it!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 18, 2010 - 12:46am PT
Steve, I am totally jealous that you are actually touching a Dolt Cobra Hook.........Dog!

And BooDawg I totally Boo you for not returning my emails.....Hamster! I still would love to have a closer photo and measurements of the Dolt nut tool holder............
by chance did you save me a Dolt hanger?

Fine!...you guys swim in your dolt and see if I care........tear......tear.....







Rock on, Marty
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 18, 2010 - 01:07am PT
Steve,
With most antiques removing the patina is a definite no-no!
That's why I rarely shower.
BooDawg

Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
Aug 18, 2010 - 02:01am PT
Marty, I apologize for not returning your 2 emails; they caught me when I was in the middle of a very intense planning period, trying to put together the elements of this 5 week trip of which I am now in middle.

Since you have called me out in public, let me respond: The tone of your emails were completely about why I should provide you with your wish list. There was little in them about service to the greater community.

"I have a huge Dolt collection..."

"I am looking for a few pieces:
Dolt nut tool holder - I have 106 different nut tools.
Dolt Cobra Hook - I have 206 different hooks.
Dolt Bolt hanger diagonal bend dark (you have two the same) I have over 1200 different bolt hangers.
Dolt short piton - I have over 500 pitons from the 1930s and up.
As far as Dolt items I have over 120 and hope to create a book someday..."

"Am I giving you enough work to do?"

The answer to that is a resounding, "Yes," considering the planning that I was doing at the time and that the tone is that it is all about you and your collection.

Furthermore, week in and week out I see S.G. posting up important historical articles and other materials that educate and otherwise benefit those who frequent S.T. And Seattle was a stop on this road trip, so I wanted to meet him in person. As my personal appreciation for how he serves this community, I asked him what he might want from my collection. He had zero Dolt pins or hooks. I have a few; I'm actually a fairly generous guy.

The tone of your posting above is similar to your emails:

Steve, I am totally jealous that you are actually touching a Dolt Cobra Hook.........Dog!

And BooDawg I totally Boo you for not returning my emails.....Hamster! I still would love to have a closer photo and measurements of the Dolt nut tool holder............
by chance did you save me a Dolt hanger?

It seems to be all about you, Marty.

S.G. went to S. CA and recorded Mark Powell's remembrances. He's offered to come to Hawaii to photograph my clatch rather than asking me to do it for him. He has a generousity and selflessness that I admire.

My suggestion to you is to relax, to not take how others relate to each other as a personal affront to yourself, to practice selflessness on a daily basis, and, well, I could go on, but I have to catch a very early flight to CA tomorrow a.m. to begin the next phase of this sojourn to Yosemite, Tuolumne, and the East Side... I wish I had time to visit you in AZ. If you plan a trip to Hawaii, please look me up; there might be a Dolt bolt hanger in it for you.

Sending you my aloha is

Ken




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