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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 30, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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Looking up at crux pitch and beyond
crux pitch
view from partway up crux pitch
following crux
[edit: first and third photos added]
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Oct 30, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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The top-out on Midnight Lightning?
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Oct 30, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
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The Peanut?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Not The Peanut, although rock color matches.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
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Yosemite Point Buttress
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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Not Yosemite Point Buttress, although the amount of vegetation may be similar! :-)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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Way too steep and broken for the Peanut. But I don't have a guess.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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I can't play because Clint told me the name of the route, but I can confirm that it is in Yosemite.
Bruce
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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Looks more like something by the Waterfall Route of Lower Yosemite Fall, except it's too high off the ground.
John
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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Smokey Pillar or Seaside?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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Not Waterfall Route at Lower Yosemite Fall (though rock color probably matches).
Not Smokey Pillar.
Maybe it was a bit too hard, so I added 2 more photos. Still not at all easy, though....
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Ken Duncan
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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The horror! The horror!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2008 - 07:11pm PT
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Oh now you added more pictures.
So now we are over by the Bridalveil Falls area.
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 07:12pm PT
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No idea, but looking good Clint!
That traverse bit looks fun...
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 30, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
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Overhang bypass?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 30, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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The Midget Chimney?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Getting warm - it is in the Bridalveil Falls area.
Not Overhang Bypass.
Midget Chimney - close, but not quite. We could have climbed up to that, but we did not go that way.
Our crux pitch diverged from that route, well below the Midget Chimney.
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kev
climber
CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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can you approach it from both 140 and 120 or just 120?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Kev,
I'm not sure about the road designations there.
I used to say that 120 goes all the way to the Valley floor,
to intersect with 140 at Mojo Tooth. Then you could call it
120 or 140 or 41 to El Cap Meadow and Yosemite Village. But
I'm not sure what it's labelled officially.
Shortest approach is from the Bridalveil Falls parking lot.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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A sub-peak of Mount Kenya is called Midget Peak. But I guess it's not that.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
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Return to the Stone Age or the Calderwood/Robbins variation of Bridalveil East?
Looks like you can see the chimney system of Bridelveil East just to the right in the first photo. That makes me suspect Stone Age. However, looks to be alot of traversing in your photos. Which makes me believe it's some sort of variation, like the Robbins/Calderwood.
But what do I know?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
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Salamanizer got it!
It's the Robbins/Calderwood variation to Bridalveil East.
Peter Haan calls it Bridalveil East - Aqua var.
I've been wanting to try it ever since he described it as a cool old 5.8 to do in low/no water.
le bruce and nutjob's "Let's Charge the Midget Chimney!" report from last spring reminded me again:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=579217
So Ken Duncan and I got on it last Saturday. It was a good adventure.
Pretty committing - you would have to reverse traverses and leave gear to rappel back to Bridalveil East. There was also a blank section in the trees after the Hand Traverse, but maybe we missed something in the dark - I did a rope throw and batman.
Return to the Stone Age is on the face of the buttress just left of the Bridalveil East chimney system.
Note: the photo overlay line in Meyers/Reid is incorrect - too far to the right.
The Roper description is correct, and the Meyers/Reid topo is pretty good, except it does not include the Aqua variation.
"terrifying chimney system", "appalling chockstones", and "exhilarating hand traverse" are quotes from the Roper 1964 guidebook.
I'm not sure about the exact location of the Midget Chimney; perhaps Melissa or others can confirm or correct....
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
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Clint these photos are great. Me and Nutjob had no inkling of where we were going when we tried Bridalveil East, but your excellent pictures above pretty much lay it all out. What was your vantage point for the long vertical shot, taken somewhere above?
So from your pic it looks like the line fires straight into the obvious chimney on the far left of my pic below, would you agree with that?
Edit: I'd love to see more photos of your day if you have them. And was the chimney terrifying, the chockstones really appalling, or are those just names?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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I think that's pretty close on the MC. It was 20 odd years ago, when I did it, and my partner (Walt S) isn't around to ask.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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Thanks, Jaybro. You can see I'm not leading that way in the photo above. We got pulled into what you have to admit is a virtual buffet of crack and corner systems out right. Only downfall of going for any of them is that the water is going to get you. The climbing was great until it got too wet.
We turned back at this ledge - Clint or Jaybro or anybody who's done BE to the Midget, do you remember belaying on a ledge like this, with a bunch of tat in a chimney feature above?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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le bruce,
You and nutjob were exactly on route for Bridalveil East - that first pitch is 20' right of the main chimney system, as described in Roper. Pitch 2 starts in the left chimney above the belay/rappel slings, then diagonals left to the main chimney system. I'll post more photos in a separate trip report with a proper title! They include photos of your ledge (dry, though).
Here is the full trip report for Bridalveil East - Aqua var.:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=712080
The long vertical photo is taken from Wawona View, I think - I poached it from a google image search.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 30, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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Perfecto, thanks Clint. I look forward to your writeup, and the appalling horrors it may or may not contain.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 30, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
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We never knew if we were on route or not, until we got to the obvious 3.5" chimney.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 30, 2008 - 09:21pm PT
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I tried to find this magic 5.8 route and got lost and did an accidental maybe first ascent
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=40071
Any guidance on how to start this thing? There's a big pool near the base of Bridalveil. where is it relative to that?
Really 5.8?
Recommended?
Peace
Karl
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 09:50pm PT
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Lots of fun Clint. I took an epic fall on the Peanut 2nd pitch 30 years ago. That's how long it's been since I've been in that neck of the woods.
Best,
lars
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 30, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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How totally cool that you (Clint) dug this route up!! I was cruising through the photos and was getting this huge deja vu experience since the "name that route" thing was not solved. I did that route (Aqua Variation) back in 65. Really fun route. A Karl and Ed H. route type of thing for sure. These guys have to go do it! Or drag my Haan Ass up there as well! So Loved It. So cool how you end up climbing a few feet to the left of the actual falls.
best, see some of you at the Nose thing next week, ph.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Oct 31, 2008 - 10:27am PT
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cool pics and another route to try
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