TR Pics Royal Arches (again) 2008-10-19


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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2008 - 03:14pm PT
After a late start from the bay area, we peruse the Saturday afternoon valley scene: not a chance in Camp 4, and waiting list for Upper Pines. We're in tent mode this weekend, going for luxury, so bandit camping is out of the question.

We planned to do Royal Arches that afternoon, so the plan just kind of fell into place; we would go camping on Royal Arches.

The crux was the P1 slab haul of two packs. I've done it wearing the pack several times, but not with a sleeping bag, two thermarests, tent and rainfly, and luxury-style picnic dinner and breakfast. What with all the confusion and stress, we didn't manage a pic of that debacle.

We took a leisurely start at about 4:30pm, and climbed until we couldn't see.

Glorious sunet over the Cathedrals:

Looking like the red spot on jupiter:

Lights in the valley at night... Ahwahnee in foreground, village behind:

Our humble abode:

And we were in luxury mode, so pre-dawn starts were absolutely out of the question! But we were encouraged to get up when the first party of the morning came along.

"Dude!" giggles. "There's a tent up here!"

I love it. Looking up the little crack before the pendulum traverse:

After the traverse:

Approaching the next generation rotten log:

And leading the pitch after it:

Hanging out for a snack just past the raps:

And the long road home:

I was a dufus on one of these raps, going darn near the end of my 60m ropes only to find I was about 15 feet short of a set of rap chains. Well, maybe that was because I threw one of the ropes in the trunk in the dark one night (after a long day on Conness where we didn't even use the damn thing) and I didn't see a few meters of tail hanging out of the trunk. Until we reached a gas station in Escalon. Now that section of rope looks a bit used.

The plan was to spend the afternoon on some harder cragging, but it just felt like an El Cap Lieback day. I've never had one of those, and it was nice. After a little nap:

Life is rough.

But I think a new tradition is being born... I might start a series called "Where Did Nutjob Sleep?"

Trad climber
Sac, CA
Oct 28, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
bump cuz Tom just did it...

Trad climber
Oct 28, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
The route is looking a little dry there Nutjob.
Good thing you had the tent! You are on a roll. Keep the TRs coming.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 28, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
It sounds like the sort of adventure the Alpine Dining Club would have approved of. Very nice!

Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 28, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
Awesome sunset pics!

Oakland: what's not to love?
Oct 28, 2008 - 10:36pm PT

Churning is right - that orange glow looks almost liquid.

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 29, 2008 - 12:22am PT
Great stuff, and great idea on ?Where to sleep? Love that idea!!

Great shots, too bad about that portion of rope sticking out the back of the car... You still using that? (Nutjob = Nutty) LOL


Trad climber
Oct 29, 2008 - 12:39am PT
Wow, I love it! Looking forward to more in the series.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 29, 2008 - 12:54am PT
the tent shots are classic.

i just added a link to this trip report to the Royal Arches beta page:

Social climber
Oct 29, 2008 - 02:55am PT
hey there nutjob... say, great pics and sunsets.. say, i like that idea:

where did nutjob sleep series... great tent stuff, too... and great pic of el cap...

Trad climber
novato ca
Oct 29, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
very cool

Trad climber
Nov 4, 2008 - 12:07am PT
I remember that sandy spot a pitch below the pendulum and thinking to myself - that would be a great spot to spend the night, but even in my wildest imagination I wouldn't have thought to bring up a tent - excellent!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 4, 2008 - 12:11am PT
that's pretty cool, good pics too although more is better..hint. I know ya got more.

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
Just for bluering... a little post-election consolation for ya:


Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 7, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
Just looking through my photos for something else and saw this collection, brought up good memories so bumping for a share. Hopefully here are a few higher quality (or at least bigger) photos from then:


Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 7, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
I love it!. Incidentally, when I first climbed the Arches in 1970, we planned a bivvy, partly since 17 pitches seemed too much for a party of three beginners to climb in one day, and partly because the weather was threatening. We ended up sleeping on the same ledge you did. We just didn't think about the addition of a tent. That meant the spectre of the Rotten Log greeted our opening eyes in the morning. The crux proved to be the first pendulum (there were two in those days. The second was right before climbing the Log), which was dripping with water. That made it quite a challenge with a pack for the leader (me) who had never attempted a pendulum before.

Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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