Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 95 of total 95 in this topic |
Regan
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 22, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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Yo,
Here is my TR. That was my third solo route on El Cap, but this is my first TR, so I am more experienced climber than TR-writer...
This is not typical pitch by pitch report, but if you need more details, just e-mail me. Two years ago, when I decided to climb solo on El Cap, I wanted to do some routes in different parts of the wall. After Zodiac and South Seas/PO the time came for The Shield...
Traveling is a part of climbing. It remind me one of Tom Waits song...
"We sail tonight for Singapore,
take your blankets from the floor
Wash your mouth out by the door,
the whole town's made of iron ore
Every witness turns to steam,
they all become Italian dreams
Fill your pockets up with earth,
get yourself a dollar's worth
Away boys, away boys, heave away"
SFO - the first night in America
One man, one tent, one dream...
That night I was first in the line...
"And I bought a long sleeved shirt
With horses on the front
And some gum and a lighter and a knife
And a new deck of cards (with girls on the back)
And I sat down and wrote a letter to my wife
And I said baby, I'm so far away from home
And I miss my baby so
I can't make it by myself
I love you so
Shore leave...
(T.W.)
The dream...
The reality...
Tom’s El Cap Report - Shield: I did see Marek Raganowicz (aka Regan) rapping to his bags on the start of the Half Dollar pitch. He has hauled his bags up the Free Blast!! No fun there!!
More reality...
Tom’s El Cap Report - Shield: My man Marek, not one of the cone-heads, was seen this afternoon established on Grey Ledges. He is in the wet zone there but he is one tough Polish dude who described a storm on SSPO as being “good weather” where he comes from!! It would have been nice if he could have gotten under the Shield Roof.
Californian party - Mark and John, want to pass me on the Roof pitch (C3). Bring some brass nuts for clean aiding...
Mark jugs the roof...
P.09 - long and beautiful pitch above The Shield Roof (C3/C1). Take all your toys...
After the lead I had to clean...
No hurry!!! Before, some funny swings and short play with a shadow...
I don't want to climb, I want to take a bivy here...
Get a groove on The Groove...For me it was C4.
Cleaning The Groove. Probably in the same time, Yuji and Hans climbed The Nose...
My Californian friends on the Headwall...
See you...
The Triple Cracks. First time on this route, I had to use my friend hammer. I am sorry - rock. Polish beaks and BD big beaks worked very well...
Where is Tom?
He is always in the right place and in the right time...
Shield: My man Marek was at the end of the triple cracks and rumor has it that he took a pretty big plunge off the pitch late in the evening yesterday. He looked confident today and took some time to take his own picture and several down the route too.
Fortunately it was only rumor...
My last look at The Triple Crack...
Supercrack. Party of three - me, I and myself...
Cleaning...
Just a look at the Headwall...
...and a short break...For the next pitches take a few of your favorite hooks.
Tom's Report - Yo.. Well it started out nice but by noon the clouds had come in driven by a strong SW wind. The Cap got cold and all the contestants went into the puffy jacket and colorful windbreaker mode... nice for the shots!! But the cliff is pretty empty at the moment. Today's report is brought to you by the turnout in front of the SW face where I sat today and shot a few parties on the Salathe and worked on the mess in the van... nice place that is BTW devoid of Tourons. I was loving it!!
Today's Report ......
Shield: My man Marek (aka Regan) made Chicken Head Ledge late in the afternoon. The lad looked to be going well and it had to be cold up there on that route.
P.15 - Be careful - rotten rock (rock and roll)!!!
Belay 16
This is my birthday - the last night on the wall. I sang some of Tom Waits songs...
"I don't wanna have to shout it out
I don't wanna be filled with doubt
I don't wanna be a good boy scout
I don't wanna have to learn to count
I don't wanna have the biggest amount
I don't wanna grow up"
" And I woke up this morning with the cold water
Slept all night in a Cedar grove
I was born to ramble, born to rove
Some men are searchin for the Holy Grail
But there ain't nothin sweeter than ridin the rail
I look 47 but I'm 24"
P.17
But next morning I started to sing:
"I'm going straight to the top
Oh yea up where the air is
Fresh and clean
I'm going straight up to the top
If you know me, you know what I mean
I can't let sorrow
I'm going straight up to the top
Up where the air is fresh and clean
I know that I will never stop, oh no
Until I know I'm wild and free
Just like a champagne bubble
Pop pop pop"
On the top...
As usual I had a few problems on the wall: lack of water, lack of food, a cold(-7C), strong wind and too heavy pigs, but I always remembered one of the last dialog from Pulp Fiction:
JULES (to Yolanda):
So, we cool Yolanda? We ain't gonna do anything stupid, are we?
YOLANDA (crying).
JULES:
Nobody's gonna do anything stupid. We gonna be like Zorro. What' Zorro like? No answer.
JULES: C'mon Yolanda, what's Zorro like?
YOLANDA (through tears, unsure): He's cool?
JULES: Correct-amundo! And that's what we're gonna be, WE'RE GONNA BE COOL!!!
Tom's El Cap Report - Yo.. Whoa, what a beautiful day here in the Ditch. The temperature was perfect as whitnessed by the teams on the wall wearing light shirts most of the day. There is room on any route you want to climb. The normally full ones are very empty at the moment. Today's report is brought to you by Marek, aka Regan, who made it down from the Shield just in time to have breakfast in the Cafe and leave for home two hours later! He says his big mistake was not listening to advice form us locals not to haul his kit up the Free Blast! So he paid the price by losing 3 days on that god forsaken slab. You know, I get a headache from being right all the time and I sure wish people would just listen for a change.
Back at the SFO.
I like America, because there are good people , big walls and free coffee...
Again in an ordinary life, but...
I'LL BE BACK!!!!!
Special thanks for:
Tom, Scott, Ted + Guys (Mountain Shop), Mash and Chantele, Darryl and Phil, Mark and John, Unknow soloist who share a water with me, two Polish climbers and Guy on a parking who prepare some food and drink...but
Absolutly Super Special Thanks for:
Kevin (Washington DC) and Pou (Barcelona). When I went down carring my pigs (70 kg)over 12 hours they just picked up my bags and gave me a ride to the Camp 4. Thanks to them, I catched my fly home...Many thanks guys!!!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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Thanks, Regan! That's a fantastic report, and I hope you post some more.
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Offset
climber
seattle
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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bitchin TR!!! A+++++
congrats on the climb!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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Wow, great job! Hard to get good pictures when you're soloing, but you did really well.
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apogee
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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Truly inspiring...your images brought back lots of memories...Charlie Porter would be proud!
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
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Man;
What a groove T.R. !
Thanks for posting up!
What's next on your tick list?
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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That belongs in the Supertopo Hall of Fame thread. Congrats, and thank you.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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Wow!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
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Shield is a sweet route. Great photos!
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UncleDoug
Social climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Sick!
An old room-mate of mine did many solo walls when I was living with him( 2 routes on the Column, Zodiac and 1 route on the leaning Tower).
At first I thought he was insane.
But I since have gained an immense amount of respect for him, his physical and mental strength, and stick-to-itiveness.
I give you the same respect
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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That was great.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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Awesome TR! I can't wait to see your next!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:52pm PT
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YEAAH! Sick one dude. Really liked the unique perspective, plus any TR with multiple Tom Waits songs is a winner in my book.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
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Yes it was so great!
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Gene
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Most cool, bitchen TR of the year!
GM
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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Oct 22, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Two thumbs up for this trip report!!! Thanks for the contribution.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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nice pix--
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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One of the best TR's ever. Way to go!!
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
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Thanks for sharing. Good job-well done!!
Erik
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
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thanks for the ride very cool
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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Really cool TR, bro.
Lotta really nice photos...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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Really cool, dude. Kick ass job!!!!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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Some of the most beautiful pictures of the Shield I have seen. Top notch TR.
Best
lars
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
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Bravo TR! Hope you can post another one soon.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:25pm PT
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What wonderful pictures! Great write up!5.15 TR
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:25pm PT
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Regan, excellent story .......
One man, one tent, one dream...
That night I was first in the line...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Regan/Marek....Super Great TR ! Wonderful creativety with A Woody Allen like take when W.A. was at his finest. Nice new spin to this viewer on your pics, comments, and penned in portions.
Say, are you the Marek that won the Acopa shoes for guessing the crag in Italia ?
Great Night to Ya, Lynne
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Indianclimber
Trad climber
Lost Wages
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Oct 22, 2008 - 09:52pm PT
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Great TR ,thank you for posting
Ninfa
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prunes
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
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Best TR ever I salute your polishness and will drink a fine Polish beer in your honor!You are right it is not the destination but the journey.Some of the best photos ever.Please invite me to climb frozen grass in the Tatras!
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crřtch
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
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F*#k yeah! Great TR. Awesome photos. BTW, your second shot (camp 4 booth) is beautifully exposed under tricky lighting. If you recall, how did you set up that shot?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 22, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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The reporting and pictures are stellar - nice send and thanks for posting it up!
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Oct 22, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
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Hey Marek,
Awesome F*&^%$#ing TR. Kick ass job on the route.
I met you spring '07 just before you sent SS to PO and I started up Mescalito.
Cheers,
Doug
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 22, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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Dang! Nice! I need to do that route.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 22, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Beautiful, spirited and evocative. nice job on the route!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 22, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Hey Euro,
Awesome TR, Awesome job on the route! Well done.
You weren't solo on the camera action!
I loved that route 23 years ago, and it looks just as beautiful as it was then. Thanks for the flashbacks.
Bruce
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Oct 22, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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It was a great pleasure for me to be a part of your climbing these past 3 solo ascents. You are a true inspiration Bro!!!
Loved the report too!!!! You are a funny guy with a very creative style of writing... maybe you could do the ECR for me!!!
Regards Tom
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Mary J. Pickford
climber
South Park
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Oct 23, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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Best TR ever on this site. Proud.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks Fox,
I can not belive in such great response...Truly inspiration always comes from you, so thank you.
Of course, I remember and I keep in my mind all of you...Ottawa Doug (you played "Dark Side of the Moon", when I climbed SS/PO.BTW congrats for Tribal R.) and Werner B ( you gave me a ride on SS/PO, when I carried a water)and..., and...
I just try to organise myself in the normal life after the trip, so be patient please...I will try to write another Euro's story if you like the first. Also,step by step I will put more things my website (www.reganclimbing.com)too.
Thank you again for all your comments.
Regan
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 23, 2008 - 12:43am PT
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Nice!
AF
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Oct 23, 2008 - 01:14am PT
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Being the first one in line at the Camp 4 Kiosk is not proud. Stealing coffee is not proud either. Climbing the Shield solo is. Nice job.
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crřtch
climber
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Oct 23, 2008 - 09:15am PT
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bump
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 23, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Bump from one Polack to another.
Cheers,
Peter Zaborowski
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Oct 23, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Love it.
Prod.
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 23, 2008 - 11:13am PT
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Marek, no hammer? Good for you fella! Very Sweet!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 23, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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Brings back memories of climbing it in '91. Thanks for sharing.
You and hard work are no stranger. I was pretty maxed after doing it with a partner. Well done.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
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Yo,
I have a few answers:
1. I did not win Acopa shoes, but many thanks for mentioning W. A. name.
2. Always, I invite everybody to the Tatras. We have there our Camp 4, which we call Tabor - awesome place. All Polish climbers were born in the Tatras.
3. The kiosk shot - 1/2.5/F3.4/ISO200/-0.7EV
4. I do not use a tripod enough, but also I have my secret tricks when I take photos...
5. Tom? As I wrote, sometimes I asked myself "Where is Tom?", because you are like a team member for most of parties on the Big Stone.
6. Nobody steal the coffee!!! When you buy a first coffee, than you can fill your cup for free - this is official Cafeteria policy (offer). After some time, I realised that always my second coffee taste much better than the first. Because I am Euro, I always buy the first one, but locals do not waste a time and they just start a day from the second coffee. They are smart!!!!When I dreamt about a free coffee, that was the dream about the second one.
Thanks for all response, congrats and warm comments
Regan
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Oct 23, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Thanks for the awesome report, good job!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Oct 23, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Bravo Polksa!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 23, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Damn Euros are everywhere, these days!
Thanks for the cool illustrated, narative!
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perswig
climber
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Oct 23, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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Truly excellent pics and VIBE. Nice, nice work.
Dale
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Oct 23, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
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Excellent TR _ Climbing related bump
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Oct 23, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
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Marek,
I love how you point out that you buy the first coffee and the next one is free, but some others merely choose to start with the second coffee. Funny, no? :)
Hope to see you sometime again in the valley.
Congrats again.
Cheers,
Doug
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Oct 23, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
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Awesome TR.
but, I hate to burst your bubble, its Fonzi, not Zorro.
JULES
(to Yolanda)
So, we cool Yolanda? We ain't
gonna do anything stupid, are we?
YOLANDA
(crying)
Don't you hurt him.
JULES
Nobody's gonna hurt anybody. We're
gonna be like three Fonzies. And
what' Fonzie like?
No answer,
JULES
C'mon Yolanda, what's Fonzie like?
YOLANDA
(through tears, unsure)
He's cool?
JULES
Correct-amundo! And that's what
we're gonna be, we're gonna be
cool.
(to Pumpkin)
Now Ringo, I'm gonna count to three
and I want you to let go your gun
and lay your palms flat on the
table. But when you do it, do it
cool. Ready?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 23, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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Hell yeah, nice TR
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 05:00am PT
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Yo,
Good point Abe and you are right. Do not hate anything and anybody, just ask and I will explain. This TR is also about a people from different cultures. As Timmy O'Neill said on the Yo Show - we are different but one (climbing) nation...
In my country nobody knows who is Fonzie, so in a cinema translation, this dialog was about Zorro...
I think Zorro is coool too, it isn't it?
By the way, who was Fonzie?
Enjoy your second coffee and I hope you agree, that when we are in a sh#t, we should be always cool - maybe you like Fonzie and me like Zorro , but always COOL!!!
Now Ringo, I'm gonna count to three...
Thanks for good reading
Regan
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Oct 24, 2008 - 07:40am PT
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Fonzie was a character on the TV show "Happy Days." His real name was Arthur Fonzarelli. He is considered a paramount of coolness, I suppose.
For all the details,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fonzy
PS, you do know who Ringo is, right?
Again, excellent TR.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 24, 2008 - 08:13am PT
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Awesome report!
Congratulations on a superb trip!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 08:20am PT
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I know two big Ringo names:
Ringo Kid
Ringo Star
Let me think...
It was Ringo Kid (John Wayne)?
or maybe some another...
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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Oct 24, 2008 - 08:56am PT
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Way to wax the TR. Proud ascent and report. I forwarded the link to a Polish friend who was in the Valley at about the same time. Thanks for the trip!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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BUMP for the best climbing pics all year!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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this pic in particular is a really good solo shot...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ditto what Hoots said - best photos of the Shield I've ever seen!
Great report, too. I especially liked that you provided the details on how far you were able to climb clean, and where you had to first use a hammer. That gives others a standard to compare with.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Super report!
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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I've read this report several times and it gets better each time... thanks for a really fun and informative report... see you again sometime....
Regards Tom
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Conrad
climber
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Wielki wysiłek.
Baw się dobrze.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Very cool. Great pics and minimalist text. Just the way I like it!
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Yowza! Nice climbing and great TR!
thanks!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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HILarious! Keep 'em coming.
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Barto
climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Great photos! Thanks for posting!
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Wow, cool vision, adventures, pictures, and writeup. Very nice.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Like Tom said, I have also read this report a few times. It does get better each time. That pic looking up the groove was my favorite as well.
Cheers,
Doug
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 28, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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Prolly some of the best pics I seen of the route too!
Nice job, Regan!
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 28, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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I'm awaiting the epic TR from the Trip!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 28, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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Great TR... Love the pics...
very spacial!!!
See you in space!!!
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Oct 28, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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One of the best threads ever! Good job
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Right then, Regan - you are squandering your skills soloing Trade Routes like everyone else. Tangerine Trip was well below your ability level. So next spring, how about stepping it up a notch - solo something a little longer and harder than anything you've done so far?
If you're interested in some ideas [and maybe a bit of beta] send me an email, and we'll figure out something.
Cheers,
Pete
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 28, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Oh damn, I missed that link. Thanks eKat!
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Oct 28, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Amazing TR. I loved it! It's the rare gems like this that keeps me coming back to this site.
Josh
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 28, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
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Congrats,
How much of the triple cracks and groove is fixed?
How many offset cams did you use?
Juan
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 28, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
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Me Likey!
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Some Dream, Some Do
Missed this one 1ST time around
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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This one is all-time. Great effort my friend.
JL
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
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Thanks
and thank you for "Largo's Planet" (polish translation).
"Rats" is my favorite chapter...
Marek
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Regan
Brilliant sense of humour and marvelous under stated writing.
You've made me want to climb two routes I'd only considered briefly
Way to go!
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Flashy P
climber
Sparks, NV
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Regan- you're on the list of SuperTopo Superheroes!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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way cool thanks and good job.
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Awesome!
Still one of the greatest places on earth to visit.
Muchas gracias compadre!
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IntheFog
climber
Mostly the next place
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Mar 11, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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bumpitybump back to the first page for this gem, too!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Gotta be one of my favorite TR's, ever.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Feb 16, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Hall of Fame TR for sure.
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| Messages 1 - 95 of total 95 in this topic |
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