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kwit
climber
california
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2008 - 06:29pm PT
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from, say, 90 feet onto the dirt/rocks in front of The Cookie, would you retire it? #4 purple Camalot? any way to tell if its integrity has been compromised? sorry if this is a noob question; i'll take my lumps for it. after all, i was noob enough to drop the damn thing.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Oct 18, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
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You're gonna die!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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Personally I would not retire it unless it had obviously taken a direct hit on a rock and had a impact mark or some sort of stress crack. But then I am a cheap bastard.
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valygrl
climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 18, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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Put it on your creek rack.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Oct 18, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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or aid rack!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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magna flux it! ahahaha
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 18, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
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Sell it on ebay.
If anybody is stupid enough to buy a used cam they deserve it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 18, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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Give it to someone who knows, addy available.
Ever hear of a BD #4 cam failing to catch a fall? They get dropped all the time. Think about wind resistance, mass, gravity, and other things, not that big a hazard.
Edit,
On the other hand, if you can't trust it, and feel you can't let others trust it either; Send it to Russ or Boku, who will be happy to pull it to destruction, film it ( I will supply the media if need be), and record the results.
The most fun, though wasteful, solution.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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its fine
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jamesellis
climber
Bremerton, Washington
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Oct 18, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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Hard to say. I might replace it for my main rack, but keep it for indian creek or aid.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Oct 18, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
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$90 is cheap compared to your potential hospital bills.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 18, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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bingo
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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I've never won a dropped cam at bingo
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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dood, we used to booty cams at the base of tahquitz on monday mornings, but life was cheap then. not quite polish-alpinist-during-the-cold-war cheap, but pretty f*#kin cheap.
but that was then.
just pony up.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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People pay $90 for a #4?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Oct 19, 2008 - 04:14pm PT
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If the gears are hardened to R6, then they might be prone to impact damage.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 19, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
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Please send it to JayBro and the WideFetish gang. Extensive testing may be necessary.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Oct 19, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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I will give you $10 and pay the freight for it... I may just be saving your life!
Jay
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Oct 20, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
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33 feet does not a drop test make.
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BoKu
Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
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Oct 25, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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I dropped Spyork's Camalot #4 from near the top of the first pitch of The Caverns last year. I bought him a new one and kept the one I dropped. I inspected it closely, dressed some of the nicks with chainsaw file, and pull-tested it to 1/2 its rating with the Break-O-Tron. It held fine, and now it's on my rack and everyone's happy.
Bob "BoKu" K.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Oct 26, 2008 - 06:30am PT
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dropped a 1.5 dmm 4cu from 5 pitches up the diamond. went all the way down. pete was on boardway when i bumbled it and saw where it landed, so two days later he picked it up on the hike out. he bumped into my now girlfriend on the hike out and gave it too her. she had it for 6 months or so before i made it back over to her place to pick it up.
now the poor thing is back on my rack and livin life nicely.
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perswig
climber
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Oct 26, 2008 - 10:16am PT
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You better visit her more than every 6 months, or she ain't gonna be your GF much longer.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Oct 26, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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I think he was hoping his GF would use it.
If you replace it, then you don't climb thinkin "is that cam gonna hold when I fall?"
That right there is worth the price of admision.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Oct 26, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
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well, at the time, she wasn't my girlfriend. didn't become so until at least a year after that.
but its ultra cool that my girlfriend hiked out to chasm view to see my working my way up the diamond.
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kwit
climber
california
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
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yeah, you're right dr. rock. its now-former owner won't use it, but i was thinking about adding it to my own rack...after coughing up the $$ for a sparkly new model that i'd have to hand over immediately .
and i haven't yet been able to figure how to make the compromised one into something useful like, uh, either jewelry, maybe a jetsons-style planter, retro cookware, or maybe an industrial-punk bikini. i'll work on it. suggestions welcome.
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