Sun Ribbon: micro TR


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Oakland: what's not to love?
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2008 - 03:44am PT
This micro TR is a gateway and a calling out, to motivate my partner Scott to deliver on his solemn oath to write up the day on Sun Ribbon Arete.

Wake up, climb a bunch, and identify your Tyrolean opportunity:

Get your aim on:

Heave! Note: a flying octo-cluster as seen here is not a good sign:

Miss! The darkest of wrist magic arts couldn't turn this scene into a good Tyro snag (took us three tries):

Onward through the glory of the line you've chosen:

The summit awaits, cold, windy, star-streaked. Sunset's last burn throwing the Palisades into silhouette, better motor, but how can you not linger.

Ok Scott, what did I leave out? Ha.


Oct 16, 2008 - 04:05am PT
Very cool report. Bravo!

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Oct 16, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
Wait a minute...are you saying that you did a Tyrolean across that gap and the way you set it up was to toss the rope across and hope that it snags on the other side? Now thats crazy...


Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
Yes strider, toss and pray is the key strategy.

I have a half-written report, been sucked into the work zone lately... and the main times I have free to work on it I'm opting for climbing instead! But it will come.

Unfortunately, we weren't facing certain death as on Hawkman's Escape, so I'll have to inject some hyperbole to keep it interesting. Then we can play Nutjob's Believe it or Knott (tm).

Oct 16, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
good stuff, cool shirt.

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
Very cool. I love the shot of the rope flying mid air! (Now I need to go back and check out the shirt too).

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
'Octo-clusters' are the worst....


Trad climber
fresno, ca
Oct 16, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
Amazing route. Nice summit shot. That place scares me. Cant wait to get on it someday. Well done. Thanks for the report.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2008 - 05:30pm PT

Thanks guys, and ok Scott you're off the hook for now.

Micronut, I'm with you. I was in a sustained state of low-level anxiety and fear for most of the day, not sure why. When we finally hit the sleeping bags that night, every time I closed my eyes and started falling asleep I found myself on-route again, pulling off loose blocks, falling. Then I'd snap wide awake in my bag, slowly drowse off, repeat. Like those dreams where you're on a skateboard, you hit a pebble that jams up your wheel, you pitch forward in the dream - and then bang, a shot of adrenaline makes you jump up in bed trying to keep your teeth off the asphalt.

Residual adrenaline I guess - couldn't shake it for a long time that night. Made for good if manic star watching.


Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Oct 16, 2008 - 05:34pm PT

You must make it look scarier, so that I will cross it off my tic list.
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