Discussion Topic |
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
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Anyone else out there done "The Thief" above the Watchtower near the base of the Leaning Tower?
We did it this week and man I thought it was as good as any crack climb I have ever done. Absolutely stellar and clean and pure. The approach is a little interesting. We climbed the Watchtower from the west and roped up to do it, although the guidebook said 4th class, I don't think so, kind of chossy. Then rapped off a chockstone to the belay ledge at the base of The Thief which starts on the east side of the Watchtower about halfway up. My partner was motivated to climb it, as he spotted the climb and got all jazzed to lead it. I have to say it was well worth the effort and more. What a splitter, I'm still smiling.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Oct 11, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Tell us more.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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It takes a little effort to get to, like I said, but when you see the crack from the ground it will really rev you up.
It starts out with a traverse off a ledge on pumpy hands to the crack system. Physical crack climbing with occasional face holds for about the first 25 feet with instant exposure when you step off the ledge. Then the angle drops back ever so slightly and the crack gets perfect thin hands and and thin feet and just go dog go. Rated Valley 10d, it is stout and rewarding. We only did the first pitch, as the second pitch does not look as good, I don't think it sees traffic. You can lower from the anchors with a 60m back to the ledge. The anchors are composed of a pin and some fixed stoppers and the like. It looks fairly bomber but I was surprised no ASCA anchors. If this climb were more well known or closer to the Valley floor, it would be nonstop traffic.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
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I've done it about 10 times.
In the early days before friends you had to run it out a bit due to hexes not working to well in that parallel crack.
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Brandon Lampley
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 11, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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I was just climbing in the Indian Himalaya, and met a team of Russian guys crushing it. When I asked about their trip to Yosemite, this is the only route two of them mentioned as awesome. And they climbed lots of stuff. Interesting.
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shutupandclimb
climber
So. Cal..............d00d
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Oct 11, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
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PICTURES...........PLEEZ
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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I bet Warbler can weigh in on this one as it's one of his routes.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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I googled images on Google for a photo of the Leaning Tower area "Thief" and this came up right away:
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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thief,dork,dickhead,criminal,muttafukka, bastard,prick,as#@&%e,terrorist,numscull,idiot,c*#ks@cker,shithead,kook,barney,mahoon,......any others?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 11, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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esu - tell us how you really feel!
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evenkeel
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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There is a coiler aid route that takes off from the top of the thief. Worth the visit thou a tad loose-the aid route that is, not the crack start.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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dude, the first ascentist Warbler, very cool to meet ya. Awesome route.
Why did you name it the Thief? We conjected that it was becasue you had to climb the Watchtower and then rap down on the opposite side and then climb again. Kind of sneak in. The Princess, which we also did(5.9 crack) is a little further over. Any relativity or do I just have a good imagination?
WB doing it 10 times is also certainly a reflection of the quality of the climb. Stoked!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 11, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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this name obviously comes from the Bob Dylan and Jimi Hendrix songs, "All Along the Watchtower" wherein the thief is mentioned, Joker too. V . cool climb.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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Yeah Kevin
"One arrow and one cassin soft iron. We rapped directly off their eyes --"
That was beautiful --- and it was art.
It's lost now .....
They are becoming ----- "Robots" now.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2008 - 01:56am PT
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Its a honor to hear from you guys the history of this. For whats its worth, my first trip to the Valley was in 1978 end of August. We spent a week, 4 of us, all 18 and 19 at the time. We had been climbing hard in the Seattle area that summer, and working out at the UW climbing rock which is a outside concrete rock with brutal cracks. I had a big Yosemite loose leaf ring binder guide, not sure if anyone knows what I am talking about. First climb I led in the Valley was Stonegroove on hexes and stoppers which woke me up. Next was Reeds Direct. Then we did Nutcracker, Central Pillar, Apron climbs, on and on. A magical week and the time before cams. We were in awe. I guess you probably don't hear thank you for making it happen for all the rest of us, but THANK YOU!!!
I think one of those original pins is still there and working fine.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Oct 12, 2008 - 11:47am PT
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Kevin-of that list of thin cracks, where would you put "10 years after"? Do you not like it, or was it an oversight. For the record, it's one of my favorite routes.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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"As splitters go"
Atomic Finger crack.
No one ever goes there anymore ........
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Oct 12, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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I LOVE threads like this!
Obscure (to me) valley routes - check
Splitter cracks - check
Hardman valley veterans posting up - check
Sick photos of the lines - bring it!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 12, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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I have done the thief a few times. It was one of our favorites for the grade in the valley. Seems like there was a very good 10c around there as well. Not as clean as the thief, can't remember the name.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 13, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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not so easy to find your way up to there. Long time ago climbed something called Plumpkin (nice little adventure) thinking we'd get up for a look at Atomic as Jardine was raving about it. But that didn't work as it looked too hard to traverse off to the right. Didn't know there was an approach from above. Must be other ascents of Atomic Finger Crack. Isn't there a picture someplace of Bill Price on it?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 13, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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Excellent thread, thanks. Nothing to add except the ".10c up in that area" could be Bridalveil East?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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The Thief is very nice. Another great one up there is Megaforce.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 15, 2008 - 01:56pm PT
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Mondegreen alert, everybody.
Kevin's version of the lyrics is not a perfect match
for Dylan's.
Dylan's first verse ends
"none of them along the line
know what any of it is worth."
Thanks for playing, Kevin. A great entry.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 15, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Kevin, Jimi sounds to me like he's using Dylan's words in those lines. Lots of syllables, yes.
There were a couple times we discussed Mondegreens on ST. Some pretty funny ones came up.
Elitist??? Me??
Sure I'm an elitist, but a down-to-Earth kind. I hang out with Sport Climbers, Liebackers, even Aid Climbers (a little)
EDIT: on Wikipedia (maybe) there are some quotes from Dylan that more or less make it seem almost as if he (Dylan) is performing covers of Jimi's song.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 15, 2008 - 04:59pm PT
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and classist, I hear.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 15, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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Kevin, I looked at Dylan's website.
But it brought up another thing. I think he made a Mondegreen of his own.
You know, "barefoot servants"
I think he originally wrote and sang "while all the women came and went, their footservants, too"
But the words on the website say barefoot servants, like most people sing.
The lyrics are copyright 1968 on the site, even though the song was released on record in 1967.
I always thought the footservants line made sense gramatically while the barefoot servants seems nonsense to me.
Jaybro, yeah, I'm still practicing the Class warfare thing (eating Aves and Pisces but sparing Mammalia) but in a flawed manner (had a bite of chile verde today)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 15, 2008 - 06:13pm PT
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I always thought "barefoot servants" was old testament, if not babylonian, or something, wish we could ask Joe Campbell, he'd know...
there's "tubes" in green chile, Scuff? Oh well, we try as we can, lard keeps turning up in chips, even today...
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 15, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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It was a conscious act, Jay.
But about climb names. Obviously, there are many puns and intentional misspellings out there.
What about the names that are simply spelled wrong by somebody who can't spell? Should they be corrected?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 15, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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There's a nice professional picture of Jobee on this climb. I don't know if it was published.
Another lovely Chapman/Worrall addition to the 10d 1-incher circuit. Beware of PO on the approach!
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Oct 15, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
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"Naming routes after songs, or lines from them was popular in the seventies - music was a big part of life in Camp 4. Seems we always had the lines of a great tune running through our heads. That song captured the mood and power of the era, and of the place. "
That was nicely put, and really sent me way back in my head for a spell.
Serious flashback.
Thanks you guys!
Joe.
(ps beats debates)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 16, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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one fantastic picture of Jobee on The Thief
gotta post it here... even with the link
Jo Whitford on The Thief Yosemite Valley. Photo by John Bachar
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Oct 16, 2008 - 03:29am PT
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wow!
Thanks Ed.
Joe.
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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Oct 16, 2008 - 11:06pm PT
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Fantastic job on that route man! You guys looked like you had just found a pot of gold,...... then sent the SH$$ out of it. Way to go!
*mucci* AKA the chef
thanks for the pic of us on the way up!
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kev
climber
CA
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Oct 17, 2008 - 01:08am PT
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That looks stout and fun. Hmmmm I may have to head back this weekend!
Thanks for all the history - great stuff!
kev
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Dolomite
climber
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Oct 17, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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Bump for an great thread. Dang, this slipped to page three in a hurry. Maybe it should have been posted to a climbing forum instead of ST. Okay, that was harsh, but seriously, this conversation is awesome. Thanks for sharing it with us--
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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Here is the link to some video I took doing The Thief and the Princess. There is a pretty good shot from above at the anchors of the main hand crack of The Thief which is elusive in photos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyf9Hdd0B78
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 17, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
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Kevin
The lizard king is the most proudest route in the valley.
It's the hidden gemstone ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 18, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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thanks for the video!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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The lizard king is my favorite route in Yosemite.
It will spit them all out ......
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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OK, I have to ask....where and what is the Lizard King? I got one more trip planned to the Valley this Fall, and would like to check it out if possible. I am not seeing it in any of the guidebooks, and it sounds wild and enticing.
Also, blast from the past. Anyone remember a guy named Bob Williams who moved to the Valley for the summer of I believe it was 1979 or 1980 and lived at Camp 4? He climbed in the NW with us, and then took off for the Valley. I heard he was getting it done down there but that was almost 30 years ago....
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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He's dead. Died many years ago in Merced.
Lizard King is at the base of lowest point on Lost Brother.
It"s a very technical jamming test piece.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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Damn. He died climbing I take it? Man, what a good guy and solid climber. I have such good memories of the climbs we did. Sh#t, Time flies, and I never heard from him again. and all this talk of years past in the Valley made me wonder what happened to him. Did he ever end up climbing with the Stonemasters? As that was his dream, he was going to the Valley, gave up everything and was going to make it happen, just a kid with a dream.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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"As that was his dream, he was going to the Valley, gave up everything and was going to make it happen, just a kid with a dream."
that statement resonates with me, as I would imagine a lot of others.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
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Well
He committed suicide, hung himself.
Sorry ....
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Well, since you remember him and he was able to climb with you guys, that was all he really wanted. He probably lived more in a few years then I have in the past 20. Peace be with you Bob Williams wherever you are now my friend.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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Kinda weird we're talking about Bob on this thread about the "Thief" which Warbler was on the FA.
I didn't want to climb with him, he wasn't a team player. He was a me player. He pissed me off big time.
Cut Warblers locks off his gear coffin and threw all his gear out in the rain because he wanted THAT gear coffin. There were other ones empty when he came back that one spring.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
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Sorry to hear it. It must have been him doing bad karma crap like that that brought him down.
I climbed with him only a few times, but he was always laughing and joking and saying "Wicked!" at the crux. He drank and smoked to much like we all did, but was one of the few people back then that could do Air Roof in Icicle Canyon and lead the hardest crack climbs at Midnight Rock.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 25, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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Bump. Climbed this route last weekend. My friend who brought me to the base of "The Thief " told me to back up shitty anker on the top of p1. To our pleasant surprise, somebody ( who probably likes this route very much) put two new good bolts on the top of p1 with the chains. Thanks!
This is exceptional splitter line by quality and any other means . One of the bests.
Thanks to Kevin Worral and Mark Chapman to bring this route to the public.
And thank you Jim for brining me there " I'm still smiling"
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edavidso
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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Bump. Climbed this last weekend. Well worth the approach and "4th class" approach pitch. Here's a picture looking down from the top of The Thief. Can't believe this isn't done more often.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 12, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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"Knucklebuster (looks good in photos, haven't done it)"
Knucklebuster (5.10d/11a) has to be one of the best thin cracks in the Valley with a wild approach up metal utility ladders cemented into the granite in Indian Canyon.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Le_bruce, let's add this to the winter agenda!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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West facing is usually kinda chilly in the winter.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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Good point Clint. I recall quitting Braille Book about 10 feet off the ground on a 20 degree December day, after swimming through snow-covered bushes on the approach.
Still, all it takes is one warm weekend somewhere in there....
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 14, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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Bet "Knucklebuster" is absolutely perfect this Oct. 14th morning in the Valley. Nice warm October day - perfect for free climbing. Could change rather suddenly in November, but today is The Day I'd say . . .
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Oct 14, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
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Dang! I missed it!!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 14, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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shoot, The Day 2011 and I'm sitting here at work.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Oct 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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pics plz
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Oct 14, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Mike B: Lets put this on the list, should be perfect for you and John !
steve
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 14, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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Jahil - I looked at the photo up there and swore to start running laps on the hand crack at the Pacific Edge to get ready.
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okie
Trad climber
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Oct 14, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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The third pitch of The Thief is the best, even better than the first, if it can be believed, and you have to do it anyway, otherwise "you never did it" as Werner would say.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Oct 14, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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All Along the Watchtower - The story of a joker who believes he is being robbed, and a thief who thinks everything is a joke. Absolutely amazing!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 03:09am PT
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Bob Locke said we had to get out there immediately to do the second ascents. So unless you guys did them twice in the first day or two, maybe we did. I think he led the Thief and I did the Joker. My memory is very vague, but the Thief seemed choice, well worth the approach by itself (and the picture looks great) and the Joker was very good, but with the approach would have more value paired with doing the Thief on the same trip.
I was stoked about the route names and the song went through my head that day. I used to play a cassette a lot that I made of Dylan’s version of All along the Watchtower from Before the Flood, followed by Hendrix’s.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Oct 15, 2011 - 03:19am PT
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Stephen
I remember that very day!
Cheers!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 03:34am PT
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Hey Tom,
Good to hear from you.
cheers,
Stephen
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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This thread still lives, cool. I noticed that the video link I posted near the start of this thread is bad. Here is a link to the same video of climbing The Thief that I posted back then.
http://vimeo.com/7195955
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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stoked to try this one this season!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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That looks awesome!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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"The Thief" is a fun climb if a wee bit soft for the grade.
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WBraun
climber
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The thief is sooo killer.
How many times did we lead that thing with hexes before friends came out.
When friends came out we did not have to run it out anymore and we became pussies ......
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WBraun
climber
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Kevin!!!!
We'll need a helicopter to get our poor asses up there now a days ......
lol
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