Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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Yeah, I am zero, big goose egg. My main climbing partner, The Doctor, is shorter than me, but has a better reach cuz he is +2
One of my best friends from Washington is 6'1" and has a +7! We all call him "The Albatross".
Jstan is a knuckledragger too, I found out at Facelift...
Put me on the rack or something!! Any tricks for increasing your reach, short of shoulder dislocation?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jay-5'10.5" X 6'3"-bro
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Shorten legs. Ape index increases.
The down side of positive ape index is normal high steps become killers.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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did you see Yuji unfold on the couch for his Timmy O'Neil interview? he must have a huge index...
....I'm on the road Jaybro... just printing the maps!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Cool!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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I'm just shy of 5'6" tall with a +3.5 aper, realmojede is 5'4" with a +2.5--it seems to help a bit, but not as much as I would like:-)
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WBraun
climber
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There's a climb we put up many years ago called "Ape Index".
This climb addresses this human apex problem.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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Werner, seems like it would intrinsically be within a limited range of body/reach types, no?
I alweays wanted to do an FA at Index, WA and call it "Ape Index", as well
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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OMG - I just learned I too live with a knuckle dragger! BrassNuts (Dave) is +4"! I'm a mere +1" (not bad for a girl I guess. Huh huh).
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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74" tall, 80" wingspan. Mainly I find that this allows me to read the screen sitting far back, and still reach the keyboard, rather than sitting close and reading through my bifocals.
Buzz
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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plus five -
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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I'm neg. But I make up for it in other areas.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I'm 6' 1"....with a 6" 5" span......(knuckle dragger...)..The missing link between man and ape.......
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Post up: It's cool to be able to scratch your knees without bending over!
My money's on John for height to reach ratio...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I increased my ape index by landing on the ground, feet first, from around 40 feet up. I got more than an inch shorter instantly! 72" and 77" for a +5.
The downside is it makes it hard to buy shirts or suits that fit really well.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Mine is +2. Since I am only 5'1" tall, though, does that make it more of a "chimp index"?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Sherri! You should get the "Apehanger" bars for your Harley then! A distinct advantage for this!
Wait. Gotta find my Sherri picture...there it is:
Miss Ya! Erik
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sherri has a good point - it's in part relative. Perhaps it's more meaningful to determine the arm span/height ratio. Though flexibility is also important.
Or we could just measure up everyone who's ever climbed 5.12 or harder, and figure out what the key measurements and ratios are. My guess is that the only consistently relevant one is body fat - skinny people climb harder.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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I am 6'0" with a zero index. My partner has a +4 which on some routes just pisses me off to no end. Especially, like the last new route we did. I spied the line, clean the sucker, figured out the moves, but only had enough for one good try. I fell and he walked it.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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6' with a +3.5 ape. It helps.
Aaron
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Miss ya, too, Mister E! That ape-index deficiency doesn't seem to be holding you back, from what I've seen. Keep up the great sends!
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 04:56pm PT
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warm fuzzy
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jstan
climber
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Starting too many climbing threads folks.
I would guess when climbing cracks ape index can be a disadvantage. There is a hold of one sort or another everywhere but the long arms make front lever moves more difficult. Just imagine trying to hold an iron cross with a +8" index.
One big advantage of long arms though. As you get older you are still able to read without wearing glasses.
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Paul Sibley could scratch hi knees without bending over.
Prod.
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quartziteflight
climber
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5'10" + 4.5 ape...oooough ooough!
Sherri,
Do you have a permit for those guns?? har har har har!
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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So that's why I can't do front levers! I feel so much better about myself now. Damn ape index.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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5'8" with a -1.5" index. My apedex is too crappy for climbing, and before climbing I played Basketball and Volleyball. I do not appreciate my build, I guess. I also have tiny hands (i fit comfortably into a womens small glove).
God hates me.
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quartziteflight
climber
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citune,
I can't do them either. Im close, but shiz they hurt!
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Basilisk
Ice climber
New Hampshire
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72.5 inches, +3.5 inch ape index
Glad no one has a negative ape index!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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something like 5'7" with +2" ape index give or take 0.5"
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WBraun
climber
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How about McCain.
He looks negative 8 inches ....
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Having your arms tied up behind you and being hung till they dislocate will do that to you.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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We have a winner!!!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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I am 6'2 and can reach to 8 feet.
What is my index?
Juan
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Bwahahahahhaaa!
Cosmic! That is hilarious! :)
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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5'8" with +3" ape index. I guess that makes me pretty average.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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5'9" with a + 4.5" ape
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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National "Ape INdex" competition at Westridge parking lot circa 1966.
A contest I won hands down,or was it up?
Kor was disqualified for genetic reasons.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It's hard to fathom, given that it's all relative.
A fathom being the distance between an adult male's outstretched fingertips, traditionally six feet.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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6' with a +5
But I get a serious - for my extended range fuel tank.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Anyone know what the ape index range of an actual ape; Orang utan, Chimp, Gorilla, Gibbon, is?
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jstan
climber
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If they are unable to stand erect, they may not have an ape index, as we define it.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Who has a zoo nearby
and lots of bananas and time to befriend an Orangutan?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
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Classic, Guido! As a carpenter, I am going to take a guess.
That is probably a 6'8" door, you are standing on your toes, and it looks like you are a good 5 inches above the door. reduce reach by 1/2 ape index for single arm reach minus the head and shoulder raise, since your other arm isn't on the ground...
-3" for standing on toes
sooo... 6'3" with a plus 7"? That's my guess.
Nice gorilla grin, BTW!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Love all the photos!
I'm 5'7" with almost a 3" ape index.
But my poor fiancee has a negative index. She refers to herself as having T-Rex arms!
GO
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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ht. 5'5" a.i. +2.5. But the professor is always telling me to use my legs and STOP reaching. ?!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Two weeks ago there was a guy in a gorilla suit bouldering @PGP
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 10, 2019 - 03:59pm PT
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Used to be 5'9" with a +2 inch ape index.
Now, at 5'8" ... I've got a +3!
Is the glass half empty, half full, or just leaking?
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jan 10, 2019 - 07:32pm PT
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Me 6' 3" + 2". Wife 5'1" -1". I'm a buck 90, she is a buck 10 and does yoga. I do off-widths ape-like, she does everything else gracefully.
S.....
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 10, 2019 - 07:41pm PT
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We did this years ago one day at carderock.
Stannard was a +6. I came in at -3. (5’10 1/2”)
Things have gotten better though. I shrank 2” so now I’m only -1.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 10, 2019 - 07:55pm PT
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~6 or 6'1" and +0
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Jan 10, 2019 - 09:16pm PT
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GDavis
Trad climber
Oct 5, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
5'8" with a -1.5" index. My apedex is too crappy for climbing, and before climbing I played Basketball and Volleyball. I do not appreciate my build, I guess. I also have tiny hands (i fit comfortably into a womens small glove).
God hates me.
I seriously laughed out loud at this. Thanks Greg, if you are still out there.
Jstan with the +8"? He doesn't even need a trash grabbie!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jan 10, 2019 - 09:26pm PT
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5' 2 1/2" with a +.5
I've already shrunk 2 1/2 inches from my younger height - aging and compacted disks etc.
This means most everyone's ape index improves as they age? Height shrinks but arms don't?
Good to know there's some compensation.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jan 10, 2019 - 10:37pm PT
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But now I'm not sure I did it right?
Is everyone using the same method and what is it?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 10, 2019 - 11:36pm PT
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Height shrinks but arms don't?
They do if your arthritis is so bad you can’t straighten them.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 10, 2019 - 11:43pm PT
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Is everyone using the same method and what is it?
Measure span, subtract height.
http://www.ape-index.com
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jan 11, 2019 - 12:00am PT
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OK thanks. I gained half an inch by measuring the span of both arms instead of just one. Strange that none of the directions online specified that.
I was thinking like an anthropologist where we see photos of various ancient humans lined up beside various apes to see their leg to arm ratio. The apes have their knuckles down down below their knees while human arms have shortened over time.
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Jan 11, 2019 - 09:22am PT
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6' with a +1.5
But my main climbing partner is 5'7" with probably a -1.5, and he's a way better climber than me.
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CountryStrong
Trad climber
MA
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Jan 11, 2019 - 09:44am PT
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6' 2" plus 7"
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| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
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