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Towshab
climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2005 - 01:04pm PT
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What are some of the better crack climbs at Red Rocks where you have to use crack climbing techniques. I realize that alot of the clasic crack climbs have good face holds around them but i would like to climb a few nice spliter cracks on my next trip out there.
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TW#T
Gym climber
san diego, ca
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Apr 18, 2005 - 01:14pm PT
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Cloud Tower Direct. Enjoy....
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Mark
climber
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Apr 18, 2005 - 01:41pm PT
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The Fox
Out Of Control
Triassic Sands
Yin and Yang(briefly)
Straight Shooter
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Apr 18, 2005 - 05:47pm PT
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The Fox (5.10d)
Yin and Yang (5.11ish)
Atman (5.10a)
Xyphoid Fever (5.10c)
Red Zinger (5.10d)
Cloud Tower (5.11c?)
Bird Pinnacle Left (5.8)
Nadia's Nine (5.9+)- second pitch
Arrow Place (5.9) - second pitch
Lucky Nuts (5.9+)
Critical Cams (5.10c/d OW)
Lotta Balls (5.8)- first pitch
Chamber of Secrets (5.7+)- second pitch
Azkaban Jam (5.9)
Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
Pipe Cleaner (V3 OW Highball)
That's all I can think of, some of them arent all crack climbing but do have some spectacular splitter sections on them- worth doing them if you're in the area. If you want any more info on some of these (some aren't published) either check rc.com or climbingredrocks.com for details or email me at vegastradguy@yahoo.com
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Deb Wolfe
climber
Durtongne
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Apr 18, 2005 - 08:23pm PT
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Slam Dancing with the Amish 5.9+
A route as good as its name. However to do the gear route you must get above Sonic Youth (or Agent Orange)...these are fun routes for clippen zee bolts.
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Jozzer
climber
NV
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Apr 19, 2005 - 12:35am PT
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Cloud Tower, Five pitches of splitter cracks.
Several of the routes on the Challanger Wall 10c-11c
The Monument has quite a few cracks and corners on splitter rock 10b-13a
Free Willy and Slick Willie 11c/d are very clean and nice.
In general none of the guidebooks are very good indicators of quality for this sort of climb, but there are a lot more out there than it would appear at first glance The Van Betten, Harrison crew went out of their way to find splitter cracks as did Joe Herbst before them.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 19, 2005 - 11:15am PT
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Brass Wall?
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dmitry
Trad climber
Chita, Russia
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Apr 19, 2005 - 02:49pm PT
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Fully agree with Cloud Tower being 5.11c:
the tips crack is definitely the crux.
Let's also not forget Ixtlan.
Distressing 2nd pitch (bring a large hex)
Classic 3rd pitch OW
Cheers!
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HandCrack
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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Apr 20, 2005 - 05:43pm PT
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Only one route I've done that hasn't been mentioned yet- Sweet Little Whore aka Slight of Hand, a great 5.9 finger crack down at the Illusion Crags.
Anyone have first-hand knowledge of Small Purchase or Dog Police? I've heard good things about them for years but haven't been there yet.
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bobh
climber
Bishop, California
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Apr 20, 2005 - 07:09pm PT
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I did Small Purchase a couple of months ago. Real good, maybe about 10b, clean
rt facing corner. Takes a lot of 1/2"-1" cams. I think the Swain guide's gear list
went up to 3", which you could place but don't really need. I don't think I used
anything bigger than 2".
Rapped with a single 70m; don't remember if a 60m would have been adequate.
Anchors were kind of hokey, like one 3/8" bolt and two old 1/4" bolts lashed
together with webbing, or some such mess.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Some nice crack climbs in RR but just a few.....not the reason you go there.
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