Generator Crack is a Cruel Mistress - A Facelift Tale

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Ricky D

Trad climber
Sierra Westside
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
or how Jilli went crack climbing and got eaten for lunch.

Sunday morning broke still and quiet over the sleeping little village of Camp Carnage. The trash had been picked, the rangers had been battled, the booze was mostly gone when the word went forth across the dusty campground that the Most Holy Crack Masters of the Great and Mighty Off-Width were heading towards Generator Crack.



"Come along with us" said Jaybro, "Trust me, what's the worst that could happen?"



So the trusting little ones followed Jaybro and Gary down the road for a day of fun by the river with nary a worrisome thought of the carnage to come.

Once there, our fearless leaders suggested that in the name of gallantry, that it should be the youngest among us who should have the honor of first try for the day. Lo and behold, who should that victim be but Supertaco's own sweet and demure tree nymph - Jilli.



After some words of off-width wisdom from Crack Master Gary -



Jilli roped up, hit the tree approach and jammed that knee into the rock.



And promptly got it stuck!

"Hey guys...guys...I think I'm stuck here."
"HEY GUYS I'M NOT FUKIN KIDDING HERE I'M REALLY STUCK"!!!!!!



LO AND BEHOLD - SHE WAS TOO!

Stuck in that crack from hell Jilli could neither go up nor down, neither in nor out, she slowly barndoored back and forth like a frail autumn leaf hoping that a kind September breeze would break her free from her prison.

First up was the Most Gallant Gary who offered a hand...err...shoulder on which the poor Jilli could rest her only free leg.



Basking in the warm glow that comes from not having to pick up trash for a while, the Tacostand offered their suggestions - "Wiggle left, wiggle right, squirm up, okay now down, that's it babay, right there, oh yeah".



After his fifteen minutes of fame, Gary calls for his partner in crack crime to take over in the aid department and Jaybro steps up to the foot -



Over the next hour, we went through every piece of gear and idea we could muster - cams above, cams below, slings under the butt, jumars up high, aiders down low, ropes from the right, ropes from the tree - even motor oil and suntan lotion were seriously considered...anything but having to call Werner!



How many ropes DOES it take to rescue someone you may ask?

At least three!



As the sun moved slowly overhead and her leg continued to lose feeling, it was none other than our own Sir Lancelot of Sushi, Nature himself who came to her aid. Drawing on his extensive experience with young ladies and their pants, he realized that it was her clothing that had bunched about the knee that was keeping Jilli trapped in granite hell.



A few practiced tugs and...



FREE AT LAST.
FREE AT LAST!
GOOD GAWD ALMIGHTY I IS FREE AT LAST!!!!!

WOW you say - what do you do after something like that?

Go climbing of course!

Jaybro attempts to get eaten too -



As does Frisbee Jake -



Even Strider wrestles with the fat bitch -



But is the Grand Poobah of Wide Wednesdays that nails this hell spawned creation - not once - but TWICE -





So the moral of this tale is that while old guys can be cruel, old guys can also rule - just don't trust them when they say "what's the worst that can happen?"








Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
Absolutely great story and super pics RickyD! Good on you Jilli for letting it be told ..... to many perfect tr's. Nature, Bravo !
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
Fun! or something

So many of those pictures would make great photo caption contests.

Peace

karl
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
kick ass!!!

we shoulda come with you guys, we ended up on swan slab. We couldn't find Munginella....very embarassing.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
I missed the fun climbing slab with Anders up in the Meadows...

looks like a whole lot of fun (at least just like fun, maybe different)...

Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
No worries Bluering. Mr. E and I were unable to find the five open books a few days before. It's trickery I tell you.

Ed, it rained the day after you and Anders climbed in TM. Glad you went when you did!
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
This has all the good stuff:

Damsel in distress

knights in shining board-lasted shoes fighting for her release

The rescue by the victorious battle-worn veteran

The king bestowing his grace upon the admiring crowd

Just awesome!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
It was a high gravity day, no question about it.



back to photobucket, anything better for video?
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Oct 1, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
I could not believe what I saw when I walked down the trail with nature and tim to meet up with you guys. At first I thought you were joking that she was stuck in the crack but lo and behold, it was the truth! Alls well that ends well and Jill was definitely a sport about the whole situation. Would liked to have seen her give it a second go I fully understand the reluctance! I struggled with the beast myself, the whole while coming up with "colorful" names for the crack that was my tormentor. Didn't make it to the top, but there is always next time.

Thanks to Gary and Jaybro for encouraging this wide fetish I seem to be developing now and thanks especially to Jill for a memory and story that will stay with me until the day I die!

-n

Dingus Milktoast

climber
Oct 1, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
AAaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

Great story. Loved the pictures and the 'suspense.' VERY WELL TOLD!

Killer pics too.

THANKS!

DMT
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 1, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
And of course, MisterE hisself puts words to
the pictures--pure poetry!!!!
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 1, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
Let's see what this does, sorry if I fuk it up. That's your
































problem.
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 1, 2008 - 10:28pm PT
Here we go again
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 1, 2008 - 10:31pm PT

Earlier that morning,



Jilli, warmed up.

While others,



pre-visualized.

After much coffee swilling, shlttalking and other sorts of stalling a crack of 11? start was achieved. Arriving at the objective,



Gary seemed to anticipate the carnage to come.

"You only get one chance to onsite, youngest first," i thought it was an inspired bit of stalling...

"This one seems too small"




"But this one is just right,"



The afore mentioned epic insued;



When you are stuck for extended time it pays to have a type B personality, and know that one of the few but mighty has you (or gives you their) back.

IT became clear that we needed to work together to resolve this, odd situation, Gary ran to the summit to drop another rope and I added my shoulder to the effort



Ricky D was right there in an adjacent tree to facilitate the second rope.



We figured if we got it complicated enough it would come out good.



Fortunately Nature™ appeared, liebacked the lower crack, and, while I spotted him while still providing a stance for Jilli's right foot was able to down-scrunch her encumbering pants while pushing up on her lower appendage.

Free at last!

So the rest had to go up there too,



Looks scary, take no chances ware a cranial prophylactic!




More Wasabi!

Gary then onsite cruised the tree start.



and



took it to the top.

I went last made the others look good by getting the direct, second try and lowering after experiencing the Camus like 'Morocan' sun near the top.

Videos to follow.

A Calm, balanced view like Jilli's, is what you want your climbing partner to have in any epic..





Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 1, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
One more
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 1, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
I think this is the middle sequence shot. Like I said if I fuked it up, that's not my problem you better just relax.............



Eddie

Trad climber
San Francisco
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:09pm PT
ahhh, yes. I got stuck in that same wonderful crack, in that same exact spot. It definitely was not my favorite climbing moment. And I was only stuck 20 minutes or so, though without a taco crowd to keep me entertained with amusing gear systems...

well done everyone!

Pete
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
Nice ! Gonna have to put my JB's on and embarass myself on that one :)
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
Awesome--the rare top-rope epic.

I believe that one is best climbed internet-side in.
WBraun

climber
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
If you're using the tree on this thing you are cheating.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
Oct 1, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
Ya'll get extra points for campground 'air beta', also.....
Many(well, several) folks have been stuck in the Generator.....
Arrrggghhh!
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Oct 2, 2008 - 12:16am PT
In 99, too embarrassed to admit being stuck, I body hauled my right leg out of that Bukowski maw. When I Shamu'd over the top, I coulda modeled the render for any Sam Pekinpah shoot. Women still ask if I'm a shark attack victim!

Very nice photo journal . . . now I need a drink!
Mei

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Oct 2, 2008 - 12:58am PT
I just overheard a comment, "Clint would have freed her within the first two minutes." :-D

Kudos to Jilli for letting the story be told and thanks Ricky for telling the story. Long live the legend of Generator Crack.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 2, 2008 - 02:51am PT
KNICKER SIGHTING!!!

how you like those Jay?

still feels funny, but damn comfy temp wise for those warm days where you still need a little something on the knees for protection.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:56am PT
They protect the knees, while still letting you feel the breeze...
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:17am PT
"If you're using the tree on this thing you are cheating."

lmao werner ;-)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Martin Boysen would be proud of you Jilli!

What's the worst......Indeed!?!

A character named Sully (short for Sullivan I'd guess) once got his knee stuck in the Hollow Flake on the Salathe. No friendly rescue party to hold your leg out there!

What you did learn is the amazing holding power of the knee joint. Mason Frichette is a great wide man and used to say that once his knee was in, it was all over.

Hilarious TR folks!
nature

climber
Santa Fe, NM
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:43am PT
We were going to try anything to keep from calling Werner. As I was up there working to take her pants off.... err... out.... someone was running to the car to get motor oil and a car jack. Yeah... that's what the thing needed... wider AND greasier.

Good story, Ricky D.... LOL!
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
Fannie's Crack, AZ
Oct 2, 2008 - 11:10am PT
The real hero of this thing was Jillian. She handled herself so well. Doug and I agreed she would be someone you want on your team. Cheers Jillian.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
great thread - funny and very justified...

here's my Generator crack story:

god gave me the perfect body for wide,
and the pain threshold to go with it...

but, lemme tell ya, whenever I looked at
dat Generator I jus thought "fukkthat thing!"

hideous.

NEVER got on it;

As a rock climb it's a "self-fullfilling prophecy".


am I light?
sure, but you knew that :)
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
Nature looks sexy with his shirt off just sayin.
Ouch!

climber
Oct 2, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
Nature is a Hero's Hero. Saved the fair maiden from listing to port down the trail on a gimpy knee.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 2, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
True story, a while ago...

My friend had decided we would all meet up and do the generator crack. He got there before the appointed time, and had prepared by taking one of his usual climbing outfits and stuffing it, creating an effigy of himself we would recognise for sure. As we approached the base, said effigy was up near the top of the crack, and we though he was soloing it!

At that moment, from above, he cut the dummy loose for the big whipper to the deck. Ouch!

Performance art...

We tried to kill him before we just about laughed to death ourselves.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
okay this vid is flipped 90º from the way I redid it, the way it appears, on my computer. I could not find a control to rotate it on photobucket. Anyone smart about this out there?



[url=[/url" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/jaybro_1956/next%201/?action=view¤t=DSCN2081.flv][/url]


also is there a way of doing this without opening the door to the rest?
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
Nice, Jaybro.

I've had the same problem with video rotation.. Probably has to do with the fact that it's too hard to rotate motion video. Just remember, like I do, to not rotate the camera vertically when doing video.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
Thas true, blue. I have QT pro on my computer and can rotate them there, but somehow when it gets to photobucket it goes perpendicular.
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Oct 2, 2008 - 08:59pm PT
Ksolem-

That's good humor!

Thanx!
Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:12am PT
HA! oh man, guys... that was a crazy... i can laugh about it now. ;-)
(actually i think i laughed a bit at the time, but it was a bit of a nervous laugh...)

i guess thats what i get for being convinced by a bunch of old geezers that climbing OW is a smart thing to do... hmm... j/k ;-)

old geezers THEY ARE NOT! let me tell you... Ed, Gary, and Jaybro are the MASTERS... someday ill get it down too... maybe. just maybe. ive got to attend Wide Wednesdays first...

but for now, back to the slab climbing. back to the Apron... ;-)

my knee is STILL sore!

Thanks for posting this Rick! good times... ;-)

Jillian


Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:23am PT
BTW,
it wasnt really my pants bunching up that kept me stuck there in granite hell- it was my KNEE CAP!!

the pants thing happened later,during the struggle... and by the time my knight in shining armor(Nature) showed up, him and i worked together to try and straighten out the creases, and then he shoved my kneee up and out
SO Nature is my hero!
actually, everyone helped so much and were so positive that that they were all my heroes for the day!! thanks guys! i wrote you a personal thankyou on the other thread "Wide is Love"

advice i have about Generator:
-do NOT use the tree to get in the crack! it makes it possible to shove yourself in there too easily... and then get stuck like me. ;-)
(but this was obviously user-error... ;-)
-Listen to Dawn (wear spandex!!)

cheers guys!

Jilli
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:26am PT
You are my hero, Jilli!
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:30am PT
Jilli,
Met you briefly at yeller Pines,

You let them talk you into that?
What a trooper!

Thanks for the posting, RickyD, fantastic writing ,
putting it out there for those of us who want to know
the true feel of wide hell!

ps, can't wait to try it!
Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:36am PT
JayBro- you are MY hero! you let me stand on your shoulders for so freakin long! Gary too! i didnt even appreciate it at the time, but THANKS!

btw- ive got a few really nice photos of you climbing the Generator later that day... im figuring out how to post them on here...

JOEY- ya, i dont know what i was thinking... ;-) j/k! they didnt have to talk me into it... iwas phsyked(sp.?) but a bit naive... i thought i could give it a whirl since ide climbed a few other OW's but i quickly realized this one was WAY different... !!
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:43am PT
Jilli,
The 2009 facelift shakedown cruise.
Crack on!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:52am PT
stuck knees are part of the whole wide game...
Jill is an adventuresome climber who's up for anything. With that support crew it was only a matter of time that they'd extract her from that slot.

And she followed Largo's admonition to a tee: "DON'T THRASH", and that was good.

Sorry about The Yawn, but you did have fun, right? and it's only 5.9, how hard could that be?
Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 11:32am PT
true true Ed... i had a great crew!

"...it's only 5.9, how hard could that be?"
hehe... ya, no worries, right?!

that Yawn thing was desperate... although it was my first time climbing squeeze style offwidth, and i had a small pack, or shoes dangling or somthing, AND there was a snake coiled up at the belay where i had to sit and wait for Luke to thrash his way up above me...
and then i think i climbed it backwards after Luke called down and recommended a certain body position... hmmm

lets go back and climb that one! see how desperate it really is/isnt...

MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 3, 2008 - 11:51am PT
It was great meeting you, Jillian and hanging out. Thanks for bringing the drum!

Hope to see you next year, when I plan on staying for the duration.

Erik
Rick L

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 11:52am PT
I was first introduced to Generator Crack in the mid-60's by the Rock Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club. It was represented as a 5.9 crack. Needless to say, that first experience left me with a profound and enduring respect for "5.9 crack climbs." After eventuallly figuring out how to climb off-widths (and re-grow huge patches of skin on my left upper back/shoulder and left knee) I made periodic return pilgrimages. I think the most impressive ascent I witnessed was that of Barry Bates. He quitely tied in to a 2 inch around- the-waist-swami, walked up to the base (avoiding the initial step that takes you to a higher start), placed his left side in and began an almost imperceptable series of subtle movements. It looked as close true levitation as a mortal can hope to accomplish. He did not pause until he reached the top and never, from what I could tell, broke a sweat. Although there were a number of accomplished off-width climbers present that day, no one came close to the ease with which Barry motored up the climb.

I suspect that if one could harness the energy expended over the years on that short piece of granite, there would be no need for electrical service to the Valley.

Have fun

Rick
Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 11:57am PT
awesome and inspiring Rick!

Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Oct 3, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
NIce pics... sounds like a classic epic.

Must agree with Werner though, that tree is not part of the route!

Generator Crack, or rather the vicinity of GC, accounts for the one serious accident I had in the Valley. Serious enough for a rush visit to the clinic and some VERY painful surgery. And this picture shows the site of the incident.



You see, back in the old days we wrapped 2" webbing (it had to be red) around our waist in lieu of full swami with leg loops. So there I am sitting comfortably on the old plank staring upward at a Richard Kiel thin crack while casually passing the webbing around my waist. Two, three passes... let's see one more should do it. I'll just reach around my back and grab the webbing... OH MY EFFIN GOD! It seems the arc of my hand passed a little low and was now firmly connected to the plank via a TWO INCH SPLINTER DRIVEN UNDER MY FINGERNAIL. My reaction was swift enough to break the splinter off even with the tip of my well-chewed nail. There was no blood as the splinter made for a perfect plug. But a dark shadow extended from the nail tip to just shy of the second knuckle. I had wood and not in a good way.

We dashed to the old VW and drove madly to the clinic. After a short wait a doctor entered and looked at the war wound. Reaching for tweezers he grasped it and tugged. I died a second time as my whole body left the exam table and followed the tweezers through the air. A new tactic would be needed. Two shots into the web of skin between my finger brought wonderful numbness and a few minutes later he tugged again and the nail of wood slid from its berth followed by a strong spurting of blood.

I have never returned to GC. If I did, I would not be sitting on that deathboard.
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
brutal
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
Great post.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
the plank is no more... you return is safe
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
Someone removed the plank? I remember someone saying a rock underneath it had fallen or some such, but I've been there since then and the plank was still there. Bummer.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
perhaps I am mistaken... it happens
frisbee

climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
Oct 3, 2008 - 03:46pm PT
I was there! Definitely a memory I'll keep for a long time. That and all the names that were screamed/grunted at the crack whilst it was being climbed---funny stuff!

Digital video rotation? Tilt the monitor or your head.

I cheated on GC and still didn't make it to the top. Burned a few calories though.

Watching Gary climb it that day was one of the most inspiring climbing feats I have personally witnessed. And Jaybro sticking the 'tree free direct.'

Jake
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
Sounds like yet another adventure that's more fun in hindsight than when you're actually in it.

But plastic-hater, you take the cake for making me cringe and grimace the most in a long while.
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 3, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
"Digital video rotation? Tilt the monitor or your head. "

Good one, Jake LOL! Did you sustain any injuries in the duration of the Facelift from your rendition of "Little Bunny FooFoo"?
I definitely heard some rumors...

Say, Man. You got some pot for me, Dood? I got a lid that's lonely...
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Oct 3, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
Hey Ed,

I was judging from the thread and associated pictures that the seat of torture was still there. Actually, these pics made me want to get back there now! I need some new battle scars to impress the missus!


My time in the Yosemite Clinic...
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 3, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
Tree start = 5.8+?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
Generator Crack would be 5.11+ if it were on pitch 8 of the Rostrum and folks hadn't done 20 laps on it already.

Nice meetin ya Jilli, Good work keepin your cool

Peace

Karl
christa Marsh

Sport climber
traverse city, mi
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
omg- one of my biggest crack-climbing fears proven.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
Christa, in the event of a really bad time, your remains could assist future climbers in overcoming a particularly difficult section of the crack... as far as I'm concerned, remains are ON!

So instead of fearing what could happen in wide cracks, just think of your potential legacy to future climbing... you'd be famous (albeit dead).


Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
" ...Generator Crack would be 5.11+ if it were on pitch 8 of the Rostrum... "

Good grief.

Peace,

Kris

;-)
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
Not Very Nice!

heehee
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Oct 3, 2008 - 05:43pm PT
Hey! I said "peace," and even smiled. That's more than most rabid grade inflators get.

Peace.

:-)
Jilli

Trad climber
SAnta cruz mtns, California
Oct 6, 2008 - 01:29am PT

Karl & Erik, nice to meet you guys too!

glad you enjoyed the drum Erik! hearing all you guys play so well on it got me inspired and ive started to practice more

'ihateplastic' - wow! crazy story... thanks for sharing. man, that bench is dangerous... ill steer clear of it next time... if there is ever a next time...

actually, we should all go back there soon... ive got some friends in town from Scotland and they are keen to do some wide stuff... they can start by suffering on the Generator. ;-)


Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 6, 2008 - 01:33am PT
Gillian's experience brings to mind that of Martin Boysen on Trango Tower, in 1975. He got his knee stuck in an offwidth - at 20,000 feet. No rescuers near at hand - after several hours, he battered the edge of a knifeblade until it was jagged, then used it to cut his clothing, which was fairly heavy, and self-release. Cutting his knee somewhat in the process - I believe the blood helped lubricate things.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 6, 2008 - 07:38am PT
The topic of the fissure Boysen did come up, that day.
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 6, 2008 - 11:44am PT
Kris, I was comment on Ed's post.

Peace, Erik

:-)
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Oct 6, 2008 - 12:58pm PT
Nice post!

More like this please.
dickcilley

Social climber
Honolulu
Oct 7, 2008 - 08:30am PT
Who did the Fa. of Generator and what year?I´ll bet they had afew beers after.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 7, 2008 - 10:19am PT
Whymper and Joe Brown '61
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2008 - 10:44am PT
I heard Rebuffat gastoned the thing....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 7, 2008 - 11:05am PT
I have found no information on the FA of Generator Crack my guess is that we might be able to narrow the time of the FA by polling the community... who did it and when did they first do it.

Maybe the age of the anchor bolts? (though I don't think the original bolts are there anymore).

It seems to be pre-mid70s.

Where's Roper when you need him?!
Maybe Eric Beck or Roger Breedlove can comment on the earlier history of the crack...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 7, 2008 - 11:41am PT
I bet Werner knows
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Oct 7, 2008 - 11:45am PT
Fantastic TR!!!

Thanks!

GO
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 8, 2008 - 12:41am PT
I tried that route many years ago as a young neophite. Not sure my technique is that much better now.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 9, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
Hi folks,

Generator Crack was already a climb when I started in 1963. Most climbers avoided it, some didn't even know about it. By 1965 I was doing laps either side in and eventually by 1970 unroped it for a few years when I was really climbing hard. I have to suspect Pratt scored this climb, maybe by 1961. But I don't know. It sure is a good TR. and training crack. It had a lot to do with my loving offwidth.

best, ph.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 9, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
Interestingly, there was another knee-stuck-in-wide-crack incident during the FaceLift, which led to a rescue. The afternoon of the first SushiFest (Tuesday) a woman got her knee stuck in Munginella, and YOSAR had to extract her. Jesse was late for sushi as a result - he had to use liquid soap to get her out. (He went back the next day and rinsed it off.)

Witticisms about 'clean' climbing may now begin.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 9, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
"unroped it for a few years when I was really climbing hard."

-Sounds familiar!

"By 1965 I was doing laps either side in"

 I was pretty much exactly 20 yrs behind you


Convergent devolution?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 9, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
Jay,

I should have gone on to say that quite a few of us used it seriously back then, and at least several would unrope it too. Even Tom Davis (Pac Edge Gym co-owner) much later was unroping it in the 1980's.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 9, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
Makes sense, really. Once you're 8' off the ground, your knee is in. 10' above that, your whole body is in...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 10, 2008 - 04:03am PT
Following the same logic, and with a better landing, I used to solo Bad Ass Moma; especially after Schneider mentioned that he had...
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Oct 10, 2008 - 11:41am PT
I foresee a wide crack in my future.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 10, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
Same logic, sure... Badass Momma requires a couple of inversions tho.... :) My friend Blaine popped out of it last year, on lead, while inverted. Fun! I caught him and kept him off the ground tho!

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 10, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
Oh yeah, had a spotter.

Check out the video of Scuffy doing it on Wide Fetish. He's the only person I've seen do it successfully without inverting.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Oct 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
I'll check it out, Jay! Actually, I think I have photos of Blaine and I there, from the day he popped out on wide fetish. There may be something my friend Tina took, after Blaine fell.

I need to give WideFetish some love anyhow. Haven't been there in a while.
quartziteflight

climber
Oct 12, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
bump
Mike.

climber
Oct 13, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
Good times afoot in this thread. Cool pix & tellin'.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
"afoot" or "aknee"?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:03am PT
How about aBump?!?
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Sep 7, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
On the anniversary of this mishap, Facelift Saturday, 2009, a visiting
climber from England got his knee stuck in Generator. As soon as the belay
rope was made tight, while a couple of us started giving physical support
from the tree, his belayer asked others to fetch his camera from his pack.
Stuck climber didn't seem to fully appreciate the ensuing laughter.
He agreed it was funny, though, as soon as he escaped the situation.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 7, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Some sort of Facelift sacrificial ritual needs to be devised to placate the Generator so it grabs the veterans rather than spooking the neophytes!

With pictures as proof, your friend's mates will be taking the piss out of him for decades! Get them to post. He'll be famous and without crapping his pants...LOL
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Sep 8, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Coooool. I missed this. Same exact thing happened to my wife, who has forsaken all wide since...going on to climb "much harder" bolted routes, heheh.

We got her out by expanding the bottom flake mms with a big cam iirc...




I can't believe the flexi flake at the top is still there!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:32am PT
ah Steve, that's the rub.... but read Holdplease2's observation, and the fact that "Lisa" schooled us in how to do that climb....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=119587&msg=119615#msg119615
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:44am PT
There's always that georgeous Bullwinkle photo that made it into Stone Nudes a few years back of a girl doing Generator. Evidently the key to not getting your leg stuck is to solo it butt nekkid'.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Perhaps the problem is that overenthusiastic newbies are overcontorting themselves in Generator Crack, trying desperately to get the microscopic bits of trash to be found deep inside, blown there by the wind. Someone should let them know that there may be more effective ways and productive places to get results during the FaceLift.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 8, 2010 - 11:54am PT

http://www.stonenudes.com/

many beautiful images there
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 11, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
That looks like some tricky staging! Must be a strap in there somewhere...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
scuffy eats that stuff for breakfast, lunch, And possibly dinner with desert, where was he?

i bet jay didn't even tape up,

carry that sun screen and just lube it all up,

legs pop out like a butterball turkey, and remember,

there are only 273 days left to do your christmas shopping.
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
All these legends and (far as I can tell) not a single video available of the thing actually being climbed successfully?

I'm up for a humiliating go at it during facelift; anyone want to join me?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
yeah, me>

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
I'm story boarding the "Wiggle in the Wide" video... certainly GC is a part of the story...
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Sep 11, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
"Wiggle in the Wide"---we wannabes will watch with wonder.

You're on, Sprock. I'll count on you for belay and ridicule.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Sep 11, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
At least you didn't end up like this guy who also got his kneee stuck:
http://vimeo.com/13831211
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 11, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
The Alpine-I really felt sorry for the poor bastard--but man did I need a good laugh!! The look on his face was pathetic!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 11, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
A"Cruel Mistress" is kind. It take a sick individual to enjoy that stuff, Call me.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 22, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Anybody lose a leg today???
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 23, 2010 - 12:49am PT
The climb is a sweat fest for sure.....But as a cruel Mistress you guys have gotten off easy. I spent 5 years with a phsyco mistress....gave me a sublime appreciation for Off-widths, their more enjoyable and rewarding.
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Sep 23, 2010 - 01:52am PT
Jaybro.

Generator Crack?

How did I miss this??

Love BOTH. Well, I hate Generator Crack cause I flail on it but Jay's presence would be worth it all.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 26, 2010 - 01:20am PT
More leg please...
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Sep 26, 2010 - 01:54am PT

This was the most fun thread in a long time!
I'm curious though, is facing one direction or the other, considered easier?
climbingcook

Trad climber
sf
Sep 26, 2010 - 04:21am PT
I'm curious though, is facing one direction or the other, considered easier?

Left side in and I can slowly flail my way up, right side in and I just twitch a bit before falling out and swinging into the tree.
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
Sep 26, 2010 - 10:59am PT
Wide crack for breakfast!

Nice to know you're filling your bellies with the good stuff.
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