Discussion Topic |
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2008 - 08:30am PT
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Because somebody's got to start this thread....
Enjoying the last day of summer, 2008: Liz Kurtz on Directissima.
Lucander on Modern Times:
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 23, 2008 - 08:36am PT
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Though it's been eons, those are great climbs! Wonderful
pix, Chiloe!!!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Nice shots Larry...you coming to the reunion??
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
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Bob, the reunion sounds like fun (not that I'm an old gunkie, just old...) but is it the
weekend of 10/17? Our daughter arrives here for a visit starting the 16th, so that
weekend is quality time with the family.
Folks were talking about it yesterday, and the logistics of drawing jstan out thisaway.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
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SteveW:
those are great climbs
On the carriage road, Lucander asked Dick Williams and a knowledgeable-looking posse
whether they would recommend Modern Times or Airy Aria as a good 5.8 to send a
visitor (me) up. Everyone said "Modern Times," so that's what we did. Big fun.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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John, those are colorful and dramatic. I like the mellow October lighting.
Got more that you're willing to share?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 23, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
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Chiloe, nice pics. I only had the Beatle Brow Bulge shots on the NE TR thread, but I will take more and post up on the next trip.
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cowpoke
climber
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Sep 23, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
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ah, beautiful pics, Chiloe...sorry to be missin' out, but glad to live vicariously. keep 'em comin', please.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 23, 2008 - 08:43pm PT
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Really nice stuff!
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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Sep 23, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 23, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
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Just three weeks till post time at the Gunks...Oakie...you still in the area..lets get out for a day.
Open Cockpit...Skytop...1977
Photo taken before most of you were born. LOL
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 09:52pm PT
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Photo taken before most of you were born. LOL
Walking down the carriage road on Sunday, I saw plenty of climbers who can probably
recall 1977 quite well! There seems to be no retirement age for the Gunks.
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scoobee
Social climber
Berkeley CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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more pics please.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 24, 2008 - 04:33am PT
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hey there chiloe.. say, supergreat for supertopo... say, yes, i agree with the folks---i am hoping for MORE...
not being demanding, mind you----asking most politely, :)
really great stuff---will have to come back and see more tomorrow, it is late and i got one them slow ol' computers... but am most greatful that i got one...
thanks for the great gunky share of the good lords creations...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2008 - 10:38am PT
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There's a wild shot. Bendy little Alien for pro, and more fiddly small gear down below.
Gives a much more dynamic feel to the picture, compared with a similar pose on a sport climb.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 24, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
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That shot is what Gunks trad is all about. Fitting that the subject, Rich Romano, is one of the all-time masters of the genre.
This is a repost (or maybe even a re-repost), but the trees in the valley are turning, so the subject seems fitting. A Robbins-shoe shod pre-chalkbag solo of High E.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
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Rich's photo has a mystical quality.
Here's a prosaic view from the first day of fall: Lucander onsights Unslung Heroes.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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Beautiful! What a bitchin' place!
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
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Superb photos everyone! I can't believe I've never climbed there.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 24, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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That Richie guy again.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 25, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Richie...again.
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 25, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Great timing Chiloe! Can't wait to finally climb there next month after the Kor fundraiser. What a fine group of crags! Can't wait to swing from my first Gunks' bucket.
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Sep 25, 2008 - 02:18am PT
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GUNKS!
great pics! that one by RGOLD is so sweet!
what a great crag!
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 05:01am PT
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I just want to repost this one of Andy Embeck on High Exposure from 1980.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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Proving that ... the Gunks have some of the most photogenic climbing in the east.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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Of that there is little doubt! Nice shots all. Right next to Diretissima is Diretississima or Doubleissima which is yet another stellar line and likely my favorite route so far at the Gunks.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Sep 25, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
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All of those photos are Photoshopped. There is no climbing in what you call 'The Gunks'. Only angry bigfoots.
I hear there is a place called Yosemite, however...
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 25, 2008 - 03:54pm PT
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Rich G on Unslung Heroes...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 25, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
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Chiloe, cool thread man, and nice pix.
Did I tell you we went up to Notchtop and saw that bowling alley you put up in the way back machine??
It was so windy up there that day that we didn't climb...just enjoyed the high country!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
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Bob, how did Rich like Unslung Heroes? Coming second, I was happy not to have gone first.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
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Survival:
Did I tell you we went up to Notchtop and saw that bowling alley you put up in
the way back machine??
You mean Religion? I remember thinking at the time that it could be popular as
Hallett one day, but clearly I thought wrong. The first move (lunge over a moat) seemed
like such a fun way to start.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 25, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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Larry...I was just shooting from the Winter...he told me that he liked it. I was on the FA years back. Good route.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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We looked at Winter, but I decided to save that for another day, when I'm younger.
Boldville and Blistered Toe were the extent of my sharp-end ambitions this Monday.
Here's Lucander running up Spring.
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goatboy smellz
climber
स्कन्ध
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Sep 25, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
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Good Gunks Larry!
thanks for reminding me how beautiful that place is during the fall.
You should check out Osteo-Path the next time your down there.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Sep 25, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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Spring! A sweet climb.
TR for me. But one of my favorites! Perhaps best dihedral climb I have ever been on in my short time climbing!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 25, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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Spring...the Winter...what about the Fall.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 26, 2008 - 02:04am PT
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Fall in the Gunks
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 27, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Thanks All,
Great photos. I've only climbed at the Gunks one day but I'd love to go back. I'm still working through the 5.7+ grade!
We did climb one 10a, where you climb up to a roof and skirt to the right, then back to the left, then a whole body scrunch into a pocket followed by a blind backward reach around a corner. Very fun.
Carry on please.
Zander
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2008 - 11:35am PT
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Oakie and Rgold win the color prizes this page. I hope we'll seem more brightness in the
weeks ahead -- though if Gunks weather is anything like NH right now, I don't suppose
too many cameras are out this weekend. Might get brushed by a hurricane tomorrow?
Goatboy, I had to look up Osteo-Path. Another one to add to the list? As a very
occasional Gunks visitor, I don't think I've done a single Gunks route twice, there's
always something new to me. Modern Times was the highlight this past weekend --
casual enough to lead off the couch, steep enough to think yeah, this is the Gunks!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 27, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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"As a very occasional Gunks visitor, I don't think I've done a single Gunks route twice, there's always something new to me.
You may not know the half of it. Dick's new Guidebook volume to the Near Trapps and Millbrook just came out, with (I think) something like 100 new routes in the Near Trapps.
I spent some time with Dick as guide doing some of these this summer. It was usually disgustingly hot and humid, so we stuck to the large number of shady short first pitches to rappel stations. The climbing is interesting and, in many cases, different in a way I can't put my finger on, with interesting and not always straightforward moves on dark, rippled rock, quite different from the classic white and yellow sections at Millbrook and the Trapps. The difficulties are all over the lot; most of what I happened to do was in the 5.7 to easy 5.10 range---old school gradings.
It is particularly interesting to have moderate routes without any chalk (this, sadly, will change), routes that require a full range of trad protecting skills (you might want to have your brass trinkets, ballnuts, and microcams on a 5.7 or 5.8).
Of course, without the guidebook, this whole area of the Near Trapps is virtually deserted, even on the most overcrowded weekends, providing a climbing experience reminiscent of the 1960's a few minutes walk away from the hurly-burly. No doubt, these routes will eventually catch on and draw climbers, or at least those climbers who have tired of repeating the same classics over and over and over again, from the densely populated nearby urban climbing centers.
But this Fall (see that? I'm still somewhat on-topic) should still be good. The air will be crisp, the colors vibrant, and the crowds, for the most part, will still be plastered on the same old routes. This might be the last chance for the weekend climber without either the time or the adventurous spirit to visit the remote Gunks crags to nonetheless step through a time warp and emerge in a quiet place where climbing is still a private conversation between the climber and the rock, punctuated only by the calls of birds and the wind speeding the fall-colored leaves on their journey to the ground.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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I kinda like the concept of the Near Trapps uncrowded. Since I'm still blundering around
with the old Swain guidebook, or mostly asking locals "Where's this route?" it's been no
harder to navigate out there. The dozen or so routes I've done seemed pretty fun. I'll
look forward to learning about the new possibilities, though.
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goatboy smellz
climber
स्कन्ध, co
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Sep 29, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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Definitely worth adding to the list Chiloe.
Photo blatantly stolen from the older Swain guide.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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bump anticipating the coming fall
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Floorabove
climber
The Gunks y'all
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And so it begins;The first blush of the color yet to come.
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c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
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Oct 10, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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Colors getting ready to pop any day now...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 10, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Fun shot !
Is this, High Exposure ?
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Teeny Face ?
Or
Obsticale Delusion?
Shooting across or from just below, at the top of Both of those
there are great photo opportunities; with High E. in the background.
It has been years though, so branches may have spread, YMMV .
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Drew Madison
Social climber
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Oct 10, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
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Last year I popped onto the High E ledge and found this little guy
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:52pm PT
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What a bitchin' place! bump
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