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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
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Greetings Friends,
Jimmy Chin,Renan Ozturk and I are in India to have a go at Meru Peak. The mountain is located in the Gangotri region of Indian Himalaya.
Renan is posting up at:
http://merudispatches.blogspot.com/
Thought you might enjoy.
Best,
Conrad
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WBraun
climber
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Best of luck Conrad .....
Offer your obeisances to Meru for safe passage.
I believe Muggs always had his eyes on Meru also.
P.S. The Toyota Camry so far has gotten alternator overhaul, new battery, new timing belt, new water pump, new spark plugs, new distributer cap and rotor, new front brake pads, new engine mounts, new camshaft and main bearing seals, new valve cover seal, new fuel filter, and new instrument panel with tachometer.
Whew ..... thanks a million Conrad
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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So basically you replaced everything but the glove box and the cigarette lighter?
(just kidding)
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks for the link Conrad. A Beautiful mountain and will try to follow this. Best wishes to you all for safety, success, and making good memories. Bruce Adams
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Conrad, really super link! Can anyone tell me are they trying for the Sharks Fin or doing Meru Central Or Shangri La ? Watched but must have missed it. Sorry.
Will be following and good thoughts and prayers for weather, fun and success. lrl
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks for the link Conrad.
Say...isn't Meru the objective Takeda had a few runs at?
Can't recall how that turned out...(maybe I need to read your report)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Maybe the Takeda objective was the Meru Shark's Fin...
Anyhow, the Thaw/Croft/Synott Kishtwar Shivling gig sounds like a good one to follow as well!
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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stuff dreams are made of!
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Flashlight
climber
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Jimmy Chin reminds me of Dan Osman. Anybody else think that?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Forget the hollywood sheee, are they trying for the shark's fin ? :)))))
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Gangotri region is sweet. Wish I could be there again soon. Is there still a Baba living in a hut on the glacier in Tapovan?
Werner wrote
"P.S. The Toyota Camry so far has gotten alternator overhaul, new battery, new timing belt, new water pump, new spark plugs, new distributer cap and rotor, new front brake pads, new engine mounts, new camshaft and main bearing seals, new valve cover seal, new fuel filter, and new instrument panel with tachometer. "
I think I owe Werner a debt of gratitude for recycling that car properly.
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Rather OT, but several manufacturers are now advertising their vehicles as "85% recyclable". I first saw it in an ad for Hummers on SuperTopo - talk about making the best of a weak hand! Then I heard it this morning on the radio, in an ad for Volvos.
I guess that all vehicles are 85% recyclable by normal means, plus or minus five percent.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Monday bump for these guys.
Good luck!
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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cool stuff! have fun guys!
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Definitely going to follow this using my RSS reader. Best of luck. If you get a chance, post up on the details of the objective.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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corporate climbing: how objectives get met in the real world
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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I second snowey, if time and opportunity details of objective.
Thanks !
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yu-min
Big Wall climber
california, san diego
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Hey Conrad, good luck on the climb! Im one of your nephew's (alex) buddies from San Diego. Hes out to sea right now but im sure you got his emails about petra. Alex talks about you all the time, im sure hes stoked for you guys! Get that fin!
Albert
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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the stuff dreams are made out of ! wishing you all much success...
-t
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Sep 15, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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bizzump
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Sep 16, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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agree GDavis, anyone got a link to post....? If not I'll try to carve time to go looking.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 16, 2008 - 02:26am PT
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Whats the process in starting a trip to a place like Gangori Region or other similar type areas of the Himalaya?
I don't so much mean for a big climbing expedition or I suppose not the first time there, but just to go and see. Anyone have any starting point suggestions? Rough ideas of cost? that type of thing?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Sep 16, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Excellent guys... best of luck... we will miss you in Yosemite this fall and wish you many great times on your adventures.
Tom
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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More great stuff!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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big time bump
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Oct 15, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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Bump, new update today.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Oct 15, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Best of luck guys!
The link is great.
hoipolloi,
to see and experience...
goes something like this;
save some money
pick a place you want to go visit
grab a friend or two
or go alone
a map is good
book train
plane
or whatever
and start heading that way
if you're short on time
go faster
don't spend too much time
in one place
otherwise
go slow and enjoy the experience
use basic common sense
smile
stand firm
and post up a TR
when you get back:>)
Cheers,
DD
edit: don't forget the visas:>)
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Oct 15, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
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speechless
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 15, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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That's gnarly lookin! Does anybody know what kind of ledge that is they're in?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 15, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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Awesome, go get it you guys!
Safe passage in the hall of the great spirits.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 15, 2008 - 09:13pm PT
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Holy crap! 5 porters died of exposure during the storm? Looks like rough conditions in Video #10.
Thanks for the links and updates!
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
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bump
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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Crap
Holy sh'it
Man oh man
Also, somebody send those poor guys a heater.
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Bruce Perschbacher
climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:42pm PT
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Looks to be an amazing adventure, thanks for sharing with us. Good luck.
Cheers,
Bruce.
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Oct 20, 2008 - 11:10pm PT
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Video #13= AWESOME. Waiting to see how it goes.....
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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Man, that is SO COOL. Someday.... maybe...
EDIT: Jimmy ROCKS, I totally love this C. many thanks!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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Big balls for big walls - and at altitude; stout...
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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Great friggin show! Really captured the whole alpine feel. I felt a shiver down my spine while sitting here on my warm bed, brrrrr. We appreciate these updates more than you know!
Best Wishes!
Kia
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Oct 22, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
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bump. New report up.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
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Video 15, The Descent is up.
Erik
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 01:39am PT
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Thanks for checking out the web page. The whole journey is up - with many thanks to Renan for his excellent work on Final Cut to compile the story.
I had tried this route 5 years ago with Bruce Miller and Doug Chabot with no success. Our route (to the right of the wall) was finished up by another team utilizing fixed ropes. Our goal was the Shark's Fin proper, a route that Mugs and Steve Quinlan had tried in 88, 20 years earlier.
We made it back on the 12th of October after 19 days on the wall and two days getting down. Our plan was to go capsule style in a quasi alpine manner. We started at the base and hauled our gear as we climbed. We used one big haul bag and one small haul along with our ledge and fly. We planned on a 10 day ascent and packed the according amount of food. On the second day a brutal storm hit and pinned us to the wall. We sat in the ledge for four days while it snowed three meters through out the Himalaya. Five porters lost their lives to exposure on the 19th of September in this storm when they tried to hike back to Gangotri and lost the trail. The Saddhus and Mahatajis (holy people) in Tapovan Meadow were getting worked. They live under boulders with a tarp and live on tea and flour. One saddu was on a 11 day fast and endured the snow.
After the storm let up we moved up - the route was pretty well plastered making the progress a bit of an effort. Eventually we got to the base of the big wall, which we dubbed "The Indian Ocean Wall" in deference to El Cap. The climbing went from vertical to overhanging, kinda like the right side in the diorite section. We drilled 13 bat hook holes, 8 rivets and three 3/8" bolts. For the iron we had 25 assorted beaks & peckers (the two larger sizes were very helpful) and placed them a bunch. The route to our high point was 35 pitches in length.
We moved our camp up, albeit slowly, and made a dash for the summit. As we had taken thin rations and made them thinner. We were running low on calories. After fixing three ropes we climbed over to the NE face and ice climbed to with in 100 m of the summit. We had hoped for easy ice or hiker 5.9, yet were confronted with what turned out to be more overhanging granite. Had we gone for it it would have meant an open bivy. With minimal food in our bellies and not much in the pack we turned around. Had we continued on our injuries would be much more severe than what they are now. With families at home and many pitches of warm rock still to climb we made the call.
Perhaps it is western folly to think we can climb to the center of the universe. We were very humbled by the experience.
Eric DeCaria and Zach Bones were in camp for Bagirathi III, super light and fast. The storm buried their gear and food. They set the new standard for hard boulder problems in the meadow. On a bigger scale the talked to us on the mini radios, phoned our families and trekked to the base of the route to help ferry our kit down. They are both totally awesome fellows and kind beyond words.
We had the same LO and cook from five years ago, Amrish and Sultan. Great help and a window into the culture.
The trip was funded by TNF, and as someone noted up thread, would constitute corporate climbing. My apologies - this is what I do.
The Korean team which climbed the left wall in the photo did an admirable job of hanging it out there. Pretty amazing line climbed in the middle of the monsoon (June ~ July). They left their ledge on the wall, a tent lower on the route (home to spent canisters and garbage) and a bunch of fixed rope. If one is not using gear & equipment it constitutes rubbish and should be dealt with accordingly.
The cabana ledge was an ACE ledge sewn and milled in Montana. The design is what is now what the BD ledge is.
Thanks to Jimmy and Renan for being stellar partners.
__
Werner - thanks for fixing the Toyota. My parents are happy that you are able to coax a second life into it. I brought you some water from Gaumuk, the source of the Ganges River. Do you still have the "more wag less bark" sticker on it?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Wild report. I love that region. Hiked to Gaumukh and Tapovan once but no climbing.
Looks like amazing rock but i'm waiting for another lifetime when global warming has made the place more YOsemite-like. (I did dip in the ganga where it emerges the ice cliff!)
Peace
Karl
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Those are really evocative clips there guys. Way to suffer!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Congrats Conrad and co. Sounds badass!
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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This is the sort of thing that gives us mere mortals and armchair adventurers shivers. Amazing reporting from the field guys.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 29, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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Friday lunch time bump - awesome!
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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Silvo Karo, Andrej Grmovsek and Marko Lukic from Solvenia are in Tapovan this season to have a go at the Shark’s Fin. Silvo is pretty much the man. East Face of the Torre among other difficult ascents.
http://www.montura.it/anagrafica.lasso?cl=12&lvl1=62&lvl2=26&l=1&sez=1&layout=4&keyid=1193
Totally keen for their ascent. And wishing them well.
Arrow is high point, dot below lightening bolt is abandoned portaledge (Korean Expedition in July) and peace is for happiness.
Photo Jimmy
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Aug 27, 2011 - 09:06am PT
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Bump
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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As they say: "Third time is a charm or three strikes and you're out." It was going to be one or the other. We were lucky with exceptional weather, a fine team and fun climbing.
We summited on the 2nd of October at 1:40. I am in Delhi, India for the next 48 and will post the topo once I get it drafted.
After 23 years knowing of the route and three attempts over 8 years it is nice to have "clipped the chains".
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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So rad Conrad!!!
Psyched to hear all about it!
Cheers!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Is that what they mean when they someone "jumped the shark"?
Congratulations!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Great job guys!
Hey Conrad, since you are only here for 48 you probably have your time planned, but if you need something to do or a place to crash, or whatever
give me a ring, I'm within short walking distance of IMF. ph# 2411 6067
you can PM me too...
cheers
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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bumping for more photos and more verbage
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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WOO HOO, RAD - Bitchin...
Paul
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Happy Boulders
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way to go guys
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Congrats on a great send! Meanwhile we were sending your route here on El Cap.
Cheers,
Big Wall Parvenu
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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great to hear of your accomplishment!
congratulations Conrad and to the team too...
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john hansen
climber
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can't wait for the trip report and vidio..
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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My congratulations as well.
A great example of how safety and perserverance both eventually pay off.
And make the return home all the sweeter.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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"clipped the chains".
So it's a sport route then, I can do it with just a rack of draws?
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Congrats to the North Face for supporting corporate climbing and those who choose to participate in it whole-heartedly !
...yawn, another peak paid for by endorsements--wish the Slovaks would have bagged it for you guys to show how it's done on the cheap.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Well done Conrad and crew! Can't wait for the TR.
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crřtch
climber
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Woot! Contgratulations.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Conrad,
Congrats to you and everyone else involved. A very, very proud ascent .
I'm sure Mugs is smiling down upon you!
Jack
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nice Conrad. Long time projects can be the most rewarding.
I would attribute the success to the fine bouldering comps in Montana they have, but maybe that's just me. :)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Hearty congratulations, Conrad. I'm looking forward to hearing the story.
Inspiring perseverance!
cheers
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah jack
Muggs had the photo of Meru stashed on him.
We're sitting at on the Post Office steps and he pulls it out to show me like it's the mos beautiful woman he's ever seen and is in love.
Thanks for being YOU Conrad ......
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2011 - 06:27am PT
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Thanks Jack, John and Werner. Yeah, it was Mugs' dream.
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Gene
climber
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Oct 13, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Well done, Lads!!!!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Oct 13, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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Congratulations Conrad!
You have come so far since those sunny days in the Wasatch. I have enjoyed reading of your travels and adventures and wish you many more.
Gary Olsen
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hb81
climber
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Oct 13, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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Beefy anchors slowly waned through the day and night until eventually we were all anchoring in and rapping off single pieces.
Blue camalots? :))
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Oct 14, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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Low point: Falling through the portaledge when it snapped in half on the fourth day at 19,000+ ft.
Looking forward to hearing and seeing more, hopefully following the previous template with Ozturk’s art work as a backdrop merged with the film and photos. You guys are amazing.
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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Oct 14, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Proud send. Your pictures and words are amazing.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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From Alpinist:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-meru-sharks-fin-anker-chin-ozturk
American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days on this prow.
Several would-be ascents of the Shark's Fin resulted in new routes on Meru Central. After an initial attempt on the Fin in spring of 2001, Valeri Babanov returned that autumn to establish Shangri La (ED 5.9/5.10 A1/A2 M5 75 degrees) to the right of the Shark's Fin line in a solo first ascent of the mountain that earned him a Piolet d'Or.
A light-and-fast attempt on the Shark's Fin was attempted by Anker, Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller in 2003. This team was turned away two-thirds of the way up the prow by deep, unconsolidated snow and a lack of proper gear for the upper wall. The following year the Japanese team of Hiroyoshi Manome, Yasushi Okada, Makoto Kuroda and Yasuhiro Hanatani set a new highpoint on the Fin at 6100m, but descended after Hanatani broke both legs.
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It was initially reported that Czechs Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger completed the second ascent of Meru Central in November 2006, but it was quickly discovered that the same Japanese team that attempted the Shark's Fin in 2004 had already achieved the second ascent of the peak by a variation of Babanov's route. A few days after the Japanese summited, the Czechs ticked the third ascent after aborting an attempt on the Shark's Fin and climbing instead to the right of the direct line, in yet another variation on Babanov's route.
Anker made his second attempt on the prow with Chin and Ozturk in 2008. The team was delayed on the climb for several days during a storm that dropped six feet of snow and, according to Chin, shut down the entire Himalaya. When the storm relented, they progressed beyond the highpoint of Anker's 2003 attempt. However, the team had severely rationed their ten-day supply of food during the storm; on their nineteenth day on the climb the team stopped about 150 meters below the summit. In a video dispatch posted after the team's return, Chin said, "Maybe this wasn't meant to be climbed ... I'm not coming back."
Renan Ozturk at the final camp before the summit push on the Shark's Fin. Ozturk and his partners have spent more than thirty days on the climb over the years. [Photo] Jimmy Chin
The trio were happy to give beta on their 2008 route to other teams aspiring to be the first to climb Meru via the Shark's fin. The following year the Slovenians Silvo Karo, Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek attempted the same route in alpine style, hoping that a light-and-fast attempt over six days would circumvent some of the difficulties that the American team encountered in 2008. The unsettled weather prevented the Slovenians from acclimatizing as planned on other routes first; they decided to make the attempt nonetheless. After completing the two-day approach, a 700m snow slope and the rock ramp that leads to the headwall, the team turned around, citing a lack of proper gear, poor acclimatization and their alpine-style approach as mistakes for an attempt on the Shark's Fin.
Of Silvo Karo's team's attempt, Chin said, "We were all hoping he would get it done. But I thought, if he doesn't get it, maybe I'll go back and try it. And when he didn't get it, Conrad and I started talking a little bit about it again. It's such an iconic, legendary route. Nobody's been able to do it. We got so close in 2008; and having that knowledge of the route, knowing all the little things we would've done differently, it's hard not to go back and throw ourselves at it again."
This September Anker, Chin and Ozturk pushed through the bottom part of the route in a speedy six days. After climbing, hauling and jugging to the base of the overhanging Indian Ocean Wall, the team climbed steep aid sections with difficulties up to A4. These sections gave way to the Crystal Pitch, an overhanging and extremely exposed prow that they aided. A final section of mixed and aid climbing brought the team to the summit of Meru on October 2.
Anker and Chin were both quick to cite the good weather as a major factor in their success. Though temperatures rarely rose above minus twenty during the day, the clear skies allowed the team to cover a distance in a single day that took them six days during their last attempt. According to Chin, a unique challenge of this route is the range of equipment it requires. The team brought equipment for technical and alpine ice and rock in addition to a big-wall kit, rather than attempting the route alpine-style like the many teams before them.
"Tons of teams have tried the route alpine style. But you just can't. You have to go aid climbing. It's modern A4 up there," Chin said. "Hauling a big-wall kit through the lower alpine route complicates things right off the deck, which is part of what makes this route so logistically challenging."
Jimmy Chin jugs the upper wall of Shark's Fin. "Tons of teams have tried the route in alpine style. But you just can't. You have to go aid climbing. It's modern A4 up there," Chin said. [Photo] Jimmy Chin collection
Cumulatively, the three climbers have spent more than thirty days on the Shark's Fin. Their multiple attempts through bad weather, severely rationed supplies and a broken portaledge make this final ascent "one of the most meaningful we have ever experienced," Ozturk said. Their shared experience on the route in 2008 was an crucial factor this year; Chin said that going back with the same team was important to all of them, especially after Ozturk's ski accident in March of this year, which left him with severe cranial and spinal injuries.
"For Renan to come back and do this route was a really big deal," Chin said. "We could've brought someone else on, but it was important for us to have him." Anker agreed; he said they could have reduced their time on the climb by three days if they had climbed in a two-man team, but the experience of returning with the same trio was an important aspect of the expedition.
For Anker, this third attempt on the Shark's Fin was also a remembrance. "For me it was a tribute to Mugs [Stump]. We had talked about the Shark's Fin, and I had that unfinished business going back to a partner." Anker also praised his wife, Jennifer, and their sons for their support of the trip. "I think for the boys, the risk associated with this trip was a little bit different than it was for Jenny. It was also during the post-monsoon season, and twelve years since Alex passed away. The experience was pretty stressful for her." Alex Lowe, Anker's climbing partner and Jenny Lowe-Anker's first husband, was killed in a post-monsoon-season avalanche on Shisha Pangma in October of 1999.
The three climbers are eager to see others try their route. When asked if he had advice for climbers attempting the second ascent, Chin laughed, "They should call me." He and Anker agree that now that the route is in place, the second ascent could happen soon—but perhaps only with the right conditions. "I can't stress enough the importance that the weather played during our trip," Anker said. "We got incredibly lucky."
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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pretty awesome ascent.
kudos!
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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This picture is from 2008. Jimmy snapped the picture early in the morning as I was leading the Montana ice pitch. The bonus of revisiting the climb was being able to do the pitches once again. This year it sported a little more ice.
Scott - The wall to the right was climbed mid monsoon by a Korean team in 2008. The BW image up thread has their ledge marked with a lighten bolt. While certainly a test of perseverance and fortitude, it was done kinda heavy. They fixed the whole route and left all their ropes in place. Some of the stuff was still dangling in the wind three years later. Their first camp was a dismal mess. Oh well.
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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INFRICKINGCREDIBLE!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Wow, so cool, er...cold, and high, and badass.
Congratulations gents!
edejom or whatever. North face didn't climb the damn thing for them.
If you were able to do such a route and had some support from the ATM, you surely would've taken it.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Nice ! Well done. Great teamwork and perseverance is rewarded!
Erik
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Ya baby!
Let's see some more!
Still eating that PB Conrad...fact I just made a PB+J to take to the Ultimate Tournament our team is playing in today.
I's got the power now-Meru Pohwa!
cheers
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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Thanks Delhi Dog... to the power of supertopo. The connector of climbers.
Chris and his wife Mimi are awesome school teachers and their pad is a short walk from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation - the $15 bivy in Delhi.
A cold KingFisher after the journey:
We then met up with fellow teachers Jon P and his wife Laura at the embassy club. School kids were swinging for the fences in a little league game and we were finding all of our mutual friends. Jon used to live in Flagstaff and was Duecy's neighbor back in the A5 days.
Now we need to meet up for skiing in Gulmarg.
Up thread I mention Jenni and her support.This image was from the airport just before departure. It was a heavy moment as post monsoon 12 years ago was when Alex died. Luckily everything worked out just fine. Sam is 19 and is a student at Montana State and Isaac is 15 and a Sophomore at Bozeman High School.
Thanks family for your trust.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Great last post.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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It was great having Conrad stop in for a few beers on his way out of town.
First time I meet him and I'll have to say it was a real pleasure. For sure one of the good guys.
Some of the cool power of the ST community!
And Conrad, once again congratulations on your incredible climb.
...and that is a fine family you have there.
cheers
DD
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Conrad, I'm amazed at your ability to live your (and by extension all of our) alpine dreams and still be such a great well-balanced role model for your boys, as well as contributing so much to the climbing community at large.
This route you guys have traced on Meru is an absolute alpine gem. That you guys went back after getting so close on your last attempt speaks of integrity and class.
You have my utmost respect as a climber and exemplary human being.
-TheSoundOfJelloClapping
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Conrad
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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Thanks Jeff. You are far to generous with your compliment.
Taking time to meet with Alex's three boys was certainly a highlight. Max, Sam and Isaac all realized how much a part of our family you are. Even though your connection is by name only, I was able to share your experience on Tullaraju with Alex. The connection: both you and Alex, independent of each other, told me how significant this climb was.
The kids are the future.
Claudia Camila - thanks for taking the portraits with Jeff. Tres genial.
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| Messages 1 - 92 of total 92 in this topic |
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