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Timmc
climber
BC
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:03am PT
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Thanks Hamie.
You busted me- I rotated the other one. This one more accurately shows angle. Is it pitch 4?
It's of Bill Noble, another Squamish climber, who also moved to the Kootenays. Not sure if Bill climbed in Squamish during the late seventies, but darn close.
Tim McAllister
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:21am PT
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Thats is the first and only pitch of rock on, not the bastille..
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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Bruce,
Yes, Bill is still in Golden with wife and kids and doing great.
New routing a bunch near Spillimacheen and working as a filmaker etc
Child of the Wind is a great tribute to John. Thanks for the link.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 17, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Bruce Fairley and Davey Jones also in Golden. Lots of ex-Squishers there. Koots Rule!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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John had cleaned it but neglected to jump on it rite away. Joe thought it had been climbed & went ahead & did it.
Which is why the climb was known as "Manual Labor" for many years. It has some other official name, but none of us ever called it anything but Manual Labor.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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Manuel's Labour.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 18, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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Bumpin
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 19, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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Please identify the source of this quote, and the route that was being described. (hamie may find it too easy.) Hint: before the 1970s.
Two previous attempts proved to us the difficulty of placing pitons and gave us a leader fall, but we did de-moss the second, third and fourth pitches. The removal of a vertical ribbon of moss and heather was immense effort for the leader; I tore loose one such 150-pound floating carpet, completely terrorizing AB, who was belaying me.
For those who think that active cleaning of climbs at Squamish didn't begin until 1974.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
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MH. Could that be Uncle Fred writing about Alex Bertulis and NW Passage? We sure laughed about all the logging etc which went on up there, but it turns out that the laughs were on us. Once again Uncle Fred turned out to be the visionary, while we became the 'laughees'.
H.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 19, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Fred was one of the climbers, but it wasn't NWP. Fred seems to have been rather keen on cleaning, even dragging a Swede saw up climbs.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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Anders, going way waaaaaaay back in the thread you have two pictures of Diedre on the second page. The first one you say is from 1976, climbers on Bloodlust, a lush green forest below. The second picture is from 1975. It looks like there should be dinosaurs walking around the barren wasteland in the background. What's up with that? How can all those trees grow so tall in one year?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 19, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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The 1975 photo was from early spring, perhaps March or April. The 1976 photo was from early July, midsummer. Lots more greenery then.
Edit: The LSB had then burnt over within the preceding few years, plus vegetation had been removed for development, power lines, etc. The new 'crop' was just getting going, and most vegetation in the lower part of the LSB was quite low.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
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The Smoke Bluffs look freakishly barren...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Well, the vegetation then wasn't as tall, and winter it always looks rather brown and bare.
The author of the quote above also said about another climb, in the following year: "This was the high-point for the saw, with which we had eliminated hanging brush and shrub evergreens. These fell to the wall’s base without touching-such was the steepness."
Any guesses as to what route the pre-1974 Squamish cleaning fiend might have been talking about?
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Cloudraker
Sport climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 21, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Tantalus Wall
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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Nope - although Fred took his saw everywhere, and seemed to enjoy attention from the tourists, neither quote refers to Tantalus Wall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 22, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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Yup, the second quote refers to Zodiac Wall, first climbed in 1967.
What about the first one?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 22, 2011 - 02:21am PT
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Northwest Passage? Oh never mind you already said that's wrong.
or........
Right Wing!! Yes that's it!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Crap Crags? Did Fred climb that?
All our guidebooks are in boxes in the basement during this renovation, so I can't check.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 22, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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Hamie and Dick did Crap Crags. And no, the first quote doesn't refer to Crap Crags, nor is it from a guidebook.
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