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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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As climbers we collect many great climbs, views and camp sites as our favorites. I asked Banks how many of these I was permitted to have in my top 10? He said only 10. Dang, because I have many more climbs, camps and views that belong to that list than just 10.
White Punks on Dope 5.8+ has been on my tick list for several years. This climb definitely meets all requirements for the Best Of, list.
The “Masters of the Moderate”, Banks, Peggy Oki and myself headed out early Sunday morning from the lower camp on rt. 22S82. Besides being convenient for the approach to WPOD, it is a fabulous climber’s camp with creek, cascading granite slabs and marvelous vistas of the Needles and Kern River canyon.
Since they installed the new Lithuanian Tramway to the base, the approach was a piece of cake. (just kidding) The guide book says 40 to 90 minutes depending on your route finding skills. We did it in an hour. I feel we ascended too far right before traversing to the left side of the dome.
One look at that magnificent first pitch crack and I knew we were in for a swell day. Here Peggy flakes the rope for the first pitch. This pitch is about 205 ft., your belayer will be climbing 5 ft up the easy crack so the leader can get to the anchor. (with a 60 meter rope)
Looking down from the belay seat.
The second pitch start off of the anchor is the crux of pitch 2 and 3 which Banks strung together. The leader, looking for pro, is prone to climb in the crack which is awkward at best. I found a nice balanced start to the left of the belay seat when I followed the second pitch.
Peggy Gearing up to lead pitch 4. Some of you skateboard aficionado’s may recognize Peggy from Dogtown and Z- boys. Besides being a cool person to hang out with, Peggy is also an environmentalist and talented artist who is not afraid to take on the sharp end.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peggy_Oki
Banks checks the topo map.
Peggy working her way up pitch 4.
Yours truly running the belay. What a poser!
There are absolutely no rest stops on pitch 4. Set gear, smear and go up. Where you see my foot is the first rest the entire pitch. This is just below the off width #4 cam placement and then it is run out “The Great White Book” style 30 ft to the top of pitch 4.
Back on the sharp end I took to the run out face with gusto. Yaaaaaaaaaaaa! It took me a little time to work out the sequence off of the first bolt. The secret was to traverse to a water groove lower than the bolt. Here my team members follow the 5th pitch.
The final pitch splitter crack will make any climber drool with lust. I begged Banks to let me lead and he conceded. He had taken his first surf lesson Friday and was sore from the exercise. Lucky me. Check this bad boy out.
We reached the summit in style and had a GOLD MEDAL day. OMG I’m late for the medal ceremony!
WE WON GOLD!
A tasty Sierra Nevada tops off a perfect day of climbing.
Check out the shadow the wizard makes on the sorcerer. Could this be the Romantic Warrior? Who is the figure on the right?
Flora
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 20, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
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Nice TR. And bump for Peggy Oki.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 20, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
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Looks really fun. Thanks for posting!
☺☺☺☺
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 20, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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That baby's on my ticklist now. Looks sweet!
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
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thanks for the TR!
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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Thx for the great TR!
I did WPOD a while back...
'Nice Route!
 ec LOL
edit: DM I have some wide angle shots looking down on someone leading the corner. With the wide angle it looks bizarre!
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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Cool pic's, and nice TR,
Only been up to Demon from the bottom, now I have to get up to WPOD
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stnmn
climber
intransit
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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been a while, thanks for the pics. it's a really fun route.
when I did it, a "guide" behind us with two clients decided to do the route with a 55 meter rope and had to do some 'xplainin as his clients had to break down every belay prior to setting up a new one above.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Thanks for posting. Great TR!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
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That was one of the first multi-pitch routes I ever did, and it's still one of the best. Thanks for a good TR to bring back memories.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 20, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Suh-weet!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 20, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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Great TR! thanks - gotta get down there.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 20, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
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great pics and stuff,
such nice stone, making me homesick...
thanks!
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drgonzo
Trad climber
east bay, CA
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Aug 20, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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When I was a noob many centuries ago, Eddie Joe (FA) made me go do WPOD. Mighty fine. I should go back again. The splitter crack at the top is too sweet not to repeat.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 20, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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Nice!
Thanks for posting.
Zander
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Aug 20, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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Peggy Oki? Is that the Dogtown chick?
Me and my bro were just discusing going climbing up there soon, how are the tempretures for climbing right now?
Thanks for the cool pics and report.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Aug 20, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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I guess I could have clicked the link you posted haha!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Aug 20, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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Drool........
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tdk
climber
puhoynix
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Aug 20, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
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Props from Moderate Masters everywhere! That fourth pitch corner alone is worth the price of admission.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
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ec did the first ascent!, Nice, I am honered he visited my TR. Thanks for that info Fatrad.
Thanks everyone, the temps were around 80, nice, good shade on the first pitch and a cool breeze the rest of the way.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 20, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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e.c. you crack me up! I'm reduced to giggling right now...
I still have some little notes you sent me, a hand drawn topo and good advice on how to get there.
"I recommend to start walking at no later than 6am to beat the riff-raff. Plan on 45min, uh, since you haven't done it yet, an hour to approach"
That worked out just right...
On the second pitch your advice...
'Passing the roof... Pro in the corner... Climb the wall on the left. Search for two small breast-like knobs. Belay in cave. "That's all I've got to say about that."'
I missed the breasts and ended up doing some weird 5.10 moves on what would have been 5.8, Steve found them and floated up.
You ended the email with:
Sorry if I've given you too much Beta...
It was a great adventure and a great climb. A favorite of mine...
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 21, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Who gets the girl?
I'm sorry, not PC.
Which guy did you choose?
Seriously, can you see the two rapids on the Kern in that summit shot?
Of course you can because I just told you.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 21, 2008 - 01:10am PT
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Holy sh*t! Peggy Oki skates, does water color, AND climbs! How crazy is that?! Good onya for getting after it.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 21, 2008 - 03:32am PT
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ed,
I remember someone thanking me some years later for the topo that I drew for him of WPOD on a napkin at the Pondo. LOL...he actually used it on the route!
ec
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 21, 2008 - 08:33am PT
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Neat report & pics--especially the
mountain mahogany and it's seeds--those guys are
driven into the ground with a corkscrew action
by that curly tail. . .
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Aug 21, 2008 - 09:36am PT
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Thanks for reminding me about that gorgeous granite stuff.
* "phone home" feeling *
Thanks for including the link to Peggy Oki's website up above. y'all be sure to check out the great site, paintings, prints and cards.
Bruce
i.e., www.peggy-oki.com
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 21, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Good job you stinker! How about some pics of you trundling on Peggy the next day.
brudda lars
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Loomis
climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
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Aug 21, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
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Courtesy: seankirsch73
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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Leading the first pitch, this shows the scale of the mountain.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Hey Peggy! Great to see photos of the trip! Glad you guys climbed with her - she's a blast!
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Bump for 5.8+
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nice post.
Reminds me that I still have to go back and bag that. I was there some fifteen years ago, but we reached the base (after 1+ hour of bushwhacking) just as another party was starting. The leader was kind enough to informs us that he was taking a beginner along and they wouldn't be moving fast. Sadly, we really had no choice but to wander off and find something else. :(
One of these days...
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Nice Jude. Great pix. Coincidentally, Peggy joined our group for some campfires, craggin' at Murphy Creek (party of 8) and a trip to the Mobil last week.
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Overhand on 2nd Pitch (2 weeks ago) Nice trip report
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Thanks for the TR, That climb is still one of the best I have ever done. Peggy Rocks!!!
Did you guys swim in those perfectly formed pools at the campground?
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Banks
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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May 31, 2019 - 11:57pm PT
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Bump for the "Masters of the Moderates".
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