Discussion Topic |
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2008 - 05:16am PT
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I just saw on the Eiger entry in Wikipedia that Dean Potter has free soloed the Eiger yesterday (August 7). Does anybody have the details? It didn't say what route but I'd imagine it was on the Nordwand.
I'll google it in the mean time.
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jstan
climber
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Dang it all Oakie. Anybody ever tell you that you are a poet?
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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I hope he did; that would be a landmark ascent.
The Heckmair ("1938") Route has been climbed solo many times; however a free solo (sans tools) would, to my knowledge, be a first.
August on the Nordwand must be a shooting gallery nowadays.
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bookworm
Social climber
Falls Church, VA
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of course not...why would he solo anything without a camera crew around to capture the moment?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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yes he did, he's the man. . .DF
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Shingle
climber
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Yes - first reported on Climbing Narcissist website. climbingnarc.com
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jstan
climber
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This raises a very old scientific question related to objects occupying space, a question dating from early Greek civilization.
How much sh#t can fly through the air all at one time?
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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An amazing ascent if he did - the added elemental considerations (rock/snowfall, poor quality, etc) make for some serious intestinal fortitude.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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jstan,
Yes you would know alot about sh#t wouldn't you, didn't they name a toilet after you? you know amerikan standard?. . .DF
Hey, limpwristed wank it must get boring working at the 7-11, oh look somebody spilled some jstan on aisle #2 go clean it up.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Well what's the straight poop then?
Tooled or without?
Free?
(I thought the spectators had to pay.)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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"I hope he did; that would be a landmark ascent."
proud for sure, but landmark? hasn't the '36 route on the eiger been soloed before? didn't wilford solo it, like, ages ago? along with a slew of euros?
could be mistaken, but it seems like a news blurb about someone or other soloing the eiger pops up once every few years.
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xkyczar
Trad climber
denver
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Someone at fiveten made the wikipedia entry.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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shut yer pie hole, elephant boy.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I remember seeing a file of Cathlene Destiville (sp?) soloing the face, so I do know it's been solo'ed before. But, I never knew there was a distinction between free and solo in the sense that you wouldn't get to take tools. Makes sense. And makes me wonder.
Either way, Way to Go Dean! Keep Crankin'...
~~
And has for Dean being silly, I'd say No, he's pretty serious. Little? You're off there too.
For sure, the DA thing has hounded Dean. Some folks just can't see past that one, and that's OK I guess. But, jail time? Get serious, victimless crime. And he climbed through a loop hole, so any charge would have to be dropped.
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xkyczar
Trad climber
denver
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And per their website:
08/07/08
Dean Potter Completes Free Solo of The Eiger
Details to come...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i'm gonna step out on a limb here and guess by "free solo" they mean alone and without a rope.
now, if he did it smokin' a fug in one hand, beer in the other, wearing shorts, e.b.'s, and a chalk bag, now that would be landmark! i'd be a fanboy for life, yo.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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bvb,
It's was a free/base, freesolo with a rigg on, he flew down. . .DF
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Bullwinkle, how long did it take him?
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Ed: Wow, solo then jump, that is friggin' wild. That boy has chauzpah in Spades.
~~
For those that find it cool to demean other's accomplishments, I truly hope that it acts as some sort of therapy for you, allowing you to behave more like an adult when you deal face-to-face with real people. If not, you're wasting your time and ours.
~~
I'm with James...
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Kelly,
He didn't say, just left a message on my phone saying he sent. . .D
hey dopie, p-p? you'd better get off the internet machine, your mommy wants to change your nappies. . .p-p? LOL
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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"of course not...why would he solo anything without a camera crew around to capture the moment?"
Why indeed? Without an audience Mr. Potter is fairly unremarkable. I wonder when he'll pull himself together...
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Pretty cool solo but the best part is hearing Dean talk sh#t on the internet. Now, that's sick.
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Mees
climber
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good to see the armchair mountaineering contingent
is alive and well. Way to go Dean!
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Check out the Film "Eiger Solo" of Leo Dickinson's ascent in 1981. Some incredible footage, it took him days. Wilford soloed it too, along with numerous other euros.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Hey M-noballs
Didn't your get booted from the Park Service for surffing porn on NPS time? guess you didn't want an audience. . .huh? pulling yourself together I think. . .DF
Mounted man 1091 dude, the only time you ever see any pu$$y is when you look in the mirror after a shower
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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"Didn't your get booted from the Park Service for surffing porn on NPS time?"
holy toledo, you mean we're not allowed to do this?
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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oakie wrote:
and Crow says: quahk quahk (tanslation: climb DA Dean)
Too bad for Dean it was knott instead a Raven - an ominous bird of yore - who croaked: "Nevermore!"
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Wow! This has become a "Dean" hate thread! Bummer. Seems DP can't do anything to make people happy, eh? But, then again, maybe that's not his point, is it? Just pointing out that when he does something and makes a little noise to support himself, you guys bitch - when he does something on the down-low, you guys bitch. Then you bitch at DF when he says something kind for a friend. Buncha haters, I say!
I think it's a cool ascent and descent. I enjoy hangin' with the Deans and both have been nothing but cool/kind to me.
What's up, DF? Ooooah!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Well, Ueli did it in under 3 hrs., but in winter, which is when it gets the closest to the sort of conditions it used to have in the summertime.
http://dev.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-steck-eiger-record-again
I was there a few weeks ago and it was unbelievably dry-- basically a semi-chossy rock climb. Took the train up to Jungraujoch and walked below the face one rest day afternoon. There was virtually no rock fall--
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!! You tell 'em, Bullwinkle Dean!
As participants in a sport with no real value and pretty limited audience, I think we really ought to be edifying each other, not tearing each other down. Anybody who talks smack about Dean has never had the opportunity to know him. If they did, they would know that there is nobody more passionate about his climbing than Dean Potter. Like Randy, I've been fortunate enough to hang around with the two Deans, and they have always been cool to me. Who else do you know dedicated enough to work an unclimbed crack in his bare feet so he could use toe jams to finally succeed? That's gotta hurt, man.
It is a fundamental premiss that Young Bulls' bollocks swell to the size of grapefruits when sitting behind their computer screens. Hey you detractors of Dean - why knott come down to the El Cap Bridge this fall and tell him yourself, face to face? [If you can stand that tall] You don't see him hiding behind anonymous internet user names.
I've been amazed at the transformation of the Eigerwand due to global warming - the summertime pictures you see of it these days bear no resemblance to what the lads climbed in 1938. The First and Second Icefields are gone, as is the White Spider. So Dean F., can you please explain what makes this "free" solo of Dean's different than previous unroped solo ascents? Is it that he used no ice tools and crampons? Do you know if he wore rock shoes? Ha! "Semi" choss? How about a crumbling heap of rubble?
Cheers,
Pete
[see you mid-September, eh?]
And what can you say about Dean? Some guys can get girls to take their clothes off and let you take pictures of them naked, but most guys can't.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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WTF is up with the hating? Let a man live his life, he's doing amazing stuff.
Sensationalism is a by-product, not the reflection of spirit. Geez.
LOL, Bob!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dr. Piton only writes in the third person - perhaps you should consider switching pronouns?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Hey Nef, Hey Pete,
Just in a slandering mood this morning, getting ready to go to the Valley. . .see you guys at the Tree. . .DF
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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You have to ask yourself, how is my posted reaction to somebody's climbing accomplishment related to my personal feelings toward that person.
I mean, if somebody you respected climbed the Eiger solo in 3 hours and then jumped off, would you post differently?
Anyway, i don't know Dean well enough to judge him. Seen some visionary stuff to respect and felt like he made some mistakes. Visionaries always do btw.
Wonder if he set the "car to car" record by solo/flying?
PEace
Karl
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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oh, so much h8 in this thread i'm gonna hotlink it to boldering.com.
settin' a sw0le example, asshats!
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jstan
climber
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Progress Report:
So far the data has shown that there is tremendous release of energy upon collision of .shit with antishit approximately as predicted by Al, but strangely no decrease in the amount of .sh#t. It appears .shit is a conserved quantity. However we can't be sure of the precise nature of the interaction because, in this case, the material is travelling at translight velocities.
In our next report we will describe our efforts to build something useful, now that we have such large quantities of material with which to work.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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You can either look for the positive or look for the negative in a person or their accomplishments.
When you look at the positives you make life more pleasurable for your own selfs. If you don't you're a goddamn stupid shiteating c*#ks@cking motherf*#king as#@&%e.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Way to go, Potter
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Fet - hahaha Nice!
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Bazo
Boulder climber
Ky
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"oh, so much h8 in this thread i'm gonna hotlink it to boldering.com.
settin' a sw0le example, asshats! "
Yeah man...nearly B.com level hate.
And that's saying a lot..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Way to go, Dean;....another inspiring adventure! (Those of you still stewing over the Delicate Arch thing;...get over yourselves;......I'm jealous because Dean has climbed Delicate Arch and I haven't yet....). Dean now has also beaten me to the Eiger;...but that don't bother me either..... Go climbing, be inspired, and be cool.
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Shingle
climber
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He's a great solo climber and possibly even a better self promoter. 2 great accomplishments in 1. Whats knott to like?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Sweet ... nice job DP and getting to take the fast way down is even sweeter!! Dean and I haven't always seen eye to eye on things but that doesn't in any way detract from the very high regard I have for his climbing and enthusiasm. Keep it going Dean!!!
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Congratulations to Dean Potter. I can't wait to read more about it and see the pictures.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
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that's amazing! the eiger is pretty and huge
OT (sorry) hey nefarious - saw that one thread got deleted. saw your comment about your atomic 4 park. right on. i'm looking for a board i can do more tricks on more easily. arbor has a nice line of boards as well. the element is sooo pretty!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Good on him.
Are there really climbers here who wouldn't have wanted to do that?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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bookworm wrote:
"of course not...why would he solo anything without a camera crew around to capture the moment?"
uhh- nobody ever said he soloed anything without a camera crew present.
DF-
damn dood, what are you, the reputation police?
your ridiculousness is showing, might want to cover that up when you are out in public!
souns like fun, can't wait to see it in some movie at the pyramid next year. of course what we all really want to see is someone go out and FS something that they very likely might actually fall off of, while wearing a rig...
you know that poster of whats-his-name laying back the wide crack way up on freerider, using the red #5 friends every so often?
i'd like to see one w/ dean (or?) ropeless, w/ a rig on, right there!
or how about repeating the often questioned FS of romantic warrior wearing a wing suit?
if these badasses are gonna be badass, and we are gonna go out and pay to see the movies that they are making, which fund their jaunts and pay their morgatges, then let's get a huge virtual suggestion box going here!
so come on, go do either of those-
and we won't even diss you for traveling w/ a film crew!
hahaha
(btw- quit worrying what everyone else is doing and worry about what YOU are doing! or not doing...)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Nice, SS!!! :)
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
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o just looked at the rest of the comments in this thread
stop being b*tches, h8trs!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Let's see, Mark Wilford solos it and writes an article about it for Rock and Ice and he's cool. Dean Potter solos it and he's a media whore. I don't get it.
A very impressive ascent no matter how you cut it. Good on ya Dean.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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re:
"Let's see, Mark Wilford solos it and writes an article about it for Rock and Ice and he's cool. Dean Potter solos it and he's a media whore. I don't get it.
A very impressive ascent no matter how you cut it. Good on ya Dean."
did he actually wear the rig while he was climbing?
cause obviously that would add something!
(i have to confess that i am completely unfamiliar w/ the climb)
EDIT-
uptop on the thread someone aid:
"Dean is a sad silly little man."
i don't know the guy and cannot comment on most of that, but i am pretty sure he is around 6'4", so you're at least partially wrong...
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Gene
climber
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Can you imagine the scene at the bar mid-afternoon.
Can I get a beer, please? I'm thirsty. I just soloed the Eiger and then jumped from the top.
I'd bet you Dean didn't have to pay for his brews.
Wild!
GM
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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I do hope there was film, because I think it would have to be pretty cool, seeing the fly-off finish. Sounds pretty exciting to me.
Also.....considering the choss thread going on in another part of this forum, it's sort of an interesting coincidence to have people telling about their adventures with tactility and then this.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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As one of the people who was extremely upset (and vocal) by what happened in Arches I would just like to say that this thread is too much.
How many of the detractors here have climbed the Eiger?
Come on people... soloing the Eiger and jumping off the top is pretty f*#king cool. Karl's comments about how you would react if it was your buddy instead of Dean are right on.
Am I still upset about the restrictions in Arches? You bet.
Am I still angry with Dean for what happened there? Not really.
Here's a question...
How many of you that are still spewing venom wrote a letter to the Arches NPS when we were trying to show that climbing is a legitimate form of recreation in the park? If you did, then you have my sincere thanks. If you didn't, then perhaps you should sit your virtual ass back down.
Brad
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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...sitting my virtual ass down.
and, I agree, it is an impressive undertaking. It is usually the followup (mag covers, movies, self-promotion) that leaves me cold. But no doubt, an impressive climb on an impressive mountain.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Wait, I'm confused. Did he or didn't he?
Is this a Michael Rearend thread???
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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DEAN IS THE MAN!!!!
All you haters can suk it!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Excellent post, Brad. Bravo.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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As far as the (old news) Delicate Arch thing goes, the idea that a free solo ascent would somehow damage the rock or the structure is ludicrous, if you've ever been there. It's fairly decent sandstone, not sugar. It WAS against regulations, but what hardcore climber hasn't worked the edges of the law?
The stuff that followed Dean's ascent is what got the whole thing all mucked up, but this was mainly "official" jive, as though the NPS has some exclusive on merit and green themes. Next time you're at the Delicate Arch, notice the guard/hand railing that has since been stripped away around the base (originally installed by the Park Service).
We all make mistakes . . .
JL
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swill
Social climber
Colorado
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Good for him. Here it is a couple of weeks ago.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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WUT A LIGHTWEIGHT HE HAD TO USE A PARACHUTE? I'LL DO THAT TODAY WHEN/IF I GET OUT OF MY ARMCHAIR.
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Trippel40
Social climber
CO
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It sure isn't ground breaking stuff but who cares?
I bet it was fun as $hit!!!! Way to go, Dean.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Wait, I'm confused. Did he or didn't he?
Is this a Michael Rearend thread???
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Who cares?
Bachar and Croft never had BASE rigs to save their falls.
Cool climb and all, but it's like soloing with a safety net. MMwaahh!!!!
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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I'm reasonably certain you don't know what you're talking about.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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BASE rigs to save their falls? LOL
If it is THAT overhanging and big I say go for it.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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SICK!
(and large- old news, but it wasn't the actual 'pushing of the limits' on that DA fiasco that pissed everyone off so much, it was the fact that it was volunteered to SLC papers for headline fodder, but i digress...)
me personally, as stated earlier, i seriously hope this is a dry run for the big stone!
come on dean!
B E T H E B A L L !!!!
(and don't let that alex kid beat you to it!)
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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He was on freebase?
Potter, you the Man!
What kind of lighter did he use?
Must have been a wind proof Calibri?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I know it's historic and all but the Eiger looks like one of the biggest junkers in creation.
JL
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Have you seen Eastwood's face lately?
Perfect match.
The guy said No Surgery, and I respect that.
Heck, if you can bang an 18 year old News Caster without out it, why bother?
Why does everybody pick on the big name climbers around here?
In the Kayak world, we think Class 5 people are crazy, but we don't say anything about it.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Did DP really solo the Nordwand of the Eiger and then BASE jump?
Damn, people that is visionary. I'm not worthy.
Pretty darn inspirational if you ask me.
Is there a link to an article, photos, or video? I'd like to check it out.
Edit: duh . . .
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/08/dean-potter-free-solos-the-eiger
Pretty awesome. I'd like to see the footage of the climb and then the jump. It's the future people.
It is not the classic Eiger Nordwand route, but none-the-less it is hard and overhanging limestone; a solo sans rope.
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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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Holy Moly--The Eiger! What an amazing solo--good job, Dean! That guy never fails to inspire people, does he? And then to fly off the top...pure brilliance!
I bet CMac is eatin' his heart out right now, too heh-heh-heh!
BTW...Nice troll, Bluey! I almost fell for it, too...and then I thought, "No, not even Bluering can be so drug-deranged as to actually believe what he just wrote...he's trolling." Good one!
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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WOW!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I'm gonna hurl if i see Dean going off about how spiritual and personal the solo was to him and then see that it was filmed and photographed to the nth degree.
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WBraun
climber
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Take it easy Mark
For one Dean loves climbing and all the other crazy stuff he does.
That's the real Dean.
Because he's so good at it and high profile people naturally always want to document and film him doing everything. It comes with the territory, you can't really get away from it now-a-days.
Then these guys interview you on camera and what are you gonna say/do? Most of the time you're thinking I'd rather not be here now but your committed to saying something and it not always comes out how you wished.
Bottom line, he'd be doing this stuff if nobody filmed or captured it on camera/media or whatever.
This guy just goes ......
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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The choice to live in the public domain is in fact a choice.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
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if i could get paid to just be my fabulous self i would totally go for it!
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jstan
climber
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We thought Rick Sylvester's skiiing off the nose was interesting. Would have been much better had he ridden a snowmobile off. That would have even been constructive. Would have heard cheering all up and down the Valley.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Todd,
it is a choice for sure but Dean loves to climb, and wants to do it all of the time, and in order to do that you either have to be a trust funder or try to get paid to climb. Nevertheless, you have to have produce to make it work, and there is no arguing Dean has done some cutting edge things. Face it, everone is jealous they don't have the talent, balls, or motivation that Dean has to be able to live that lifestyle.
The Delicate Arch thing is in the past and Dean has apologized, in public, on several occasions. Largo's post concerning that issue hits the nail on the head and should be reviewed thoroughly by all you haters out there.
Whoever is bashing on the Eiger ascent should go give it a try before deeming it not press worthy or "spray". My bet is most of you won't even get out of your chair.
You have got to respect anyone who can make a living soloing gigantic teetering piles of snow and choss.
respectfully,
Deenluvr
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
almost all the way home
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word. people who gossip about stuff after years are total f*ckin pussies
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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I think, incontrovertably, the answer to the OP is
YES!
and with style!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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So he'll just be unforgiven!!!
Climbings Dark Lord. MUUU HHAAAA hHHAAAA
So easy to hate.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I have no idea why I'm posting hear, but, when you think of most things done in the mountains, they recede from attention pretty quickly. Certainly less than 100 people will post in this thread, and less than 1000 people will probably even read this thread, and all the passion will dissolve pretty quickly.
Dean Potter had an idea and he went out and realized it.
That's not totally unusual, but in our climber's "circle" it was bold, given the history of the climb, the real dangers that exist being up on that wall, and then the challenges of flying off of it. I certainly don't pretend to understand why he did it, I am totally amazed that he did.
At any given time there are few that have visions and fewer that make those visions reality. Dean seems to be someone who does, in the realm of this sport he seems to be able to conceive of and execute some pretty bold adventures.
I wouldn't want to encourage him with the worry that someday one of these risks will end unhappily, but given his most recent success, it is certainly worth congratulating him.
Amazing, Mr. Potter! congratulations.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Hey, Ed, the Eiger ia cool an all, but it's time to hit the road, less talk more driving.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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OK, here's more beta:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/potter_base_solos_the_eiger/
He didn't solo the whole wall - far from it - but traversed in to climb the final six-hundred-foot headwall. "Only" six hundred feet you say?
Photo by Beat Kammerlander
Well, this last bit just happens to be a 5.12+ free solo - check out how steep the rock is! - and his "safety" was his five-pound BASE jumping 'chute, which he could deploy in theory should he fall!
HOW RAD IS THAT?!
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! NICE SEND, Dean!! They've got it on film, can't wait to see it.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Pretty cool. I didn't like the whole Delicate Arch thing, but he does definitely push limits.
The big question...is this training for a BASE solo attempt on El Cap?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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just a few words while sitting on the can doing the "morning thing"
I'm in process right now!
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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That is insane! So rad! Carrying a base rig "in case you fall" is like climbing near a farm "in case there is a haystack to fall into." Man my hands are shaking... I can't imagine the sack it took to do that. Crazy!
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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anyone know where to find a topo for Deep blue Sea? I looked but struck out... Thanks
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Stainless
Social climber
LA, CA
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Deep Blue Sea is on the Geneva Spur, which is the right side of the Eiger. It comes nowhere near the summit and is accessed, most likely, by the train tunnel (not altogether unadventurous to get to, btw). So, technically, he didn't free solo the north face of the Eiger. But he did solo a big, steep, hard, long route on somewhat chossy rock with a contingency plan that's about as viable as when Bachar said he could jump and land on the rock behind Father Figure should he have fallen while soloing. Pretty bold and impressive outing in my book, whether a crow gave him the idea or not. Give the man some kudos. Jesus.
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captain chaos
climber
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Pretty wild, something one might have a dream about... or nightmare. In the end its real and downright bad ass- pretty dam cool, is all I can say. My guess is we will see more of this...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Looks like what Dean actually did was way harder and more dangerous than the regular Norwand (although a different animal for sure)
as has been written above, If you're not a trust funder, you have to play some climbing-media games to be a professional climber. Folks might not like the compromise they seem to see in that. If so, it's good to remember not to idealize the trust funders just because they have the luxury not to need the money and to remember that they themselves probably punch some clock or otherwise compromise their time to even have the cash to be a weekend warrior.
Peace
karl
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Trippel40
Social climber
CO
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Wise words, Karl.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Does anyone know if Dean previewed the route.
A visionary stunt for sure. Make me wonder what other BASE rig-belayed routes he might be considering. It's fun to see him push some limits.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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It looks like the route has some chalk already on it, and I should HOPE he checked the route out first. Just suicide otherwise... not that FreeBASE isn't suicidal enough : /
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Right on Dean, you're on fire!
..and to the peanut gallery..
-Towers are measured by their shadows, and men of merit by those who are envious of them.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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He's jumped off a bunch of slack lines. That's got to give him a little extra confidence in making a sudden transition from security to "oh Shiiittt...!!!"
Diving off rock would be a whole other level which might be too dicey to practice in advance.
peace
Karl
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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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I kind of think you guys might be giving this BASE rig way more "protective value" than it truly merits.
First off, he's climbing into the rockface. If he falls--a hold breaks, his feet slip, whatever--he falls straight down facing the rock. We've all taken falls--we all know the deal. Now the big thing with BASE (which I know from hang gliding for the similar dynamics, and from friends who BASE jump), is getting as far away from the rock as possible, which means facing away from the rock.
So not only would he have to have his wits together enough after a surprise fall to push away from the rock to clear it, but to make sure his body is turned outward. Overhanging rock gives you the advantage of being somewhat away from the face, but doesn't allow you to push off, which would help you turn. And with the fall rate of the human body, there's just not a lot of time to manuever.
It just seems a little questionable to me that he actually wore his BASE rig for security reasons as much as for his planned jump at the end of the climb.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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Holy Cow he's wearing a Wingsuit also.
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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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OK...now we're talkin' carrying the net with ya!
Where the heck did he find a flesh-colored Wingsuit???
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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WalMart, where else?
Isle 3, Cellophane, Foil and Wax Paper.
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Degaine
climber
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Aug 10, 2008 - 03:50am PT
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"I know it's historic and all but the Eiger looks like one of the biggest junkers in creation.
JL"
Now that the permafrost is disappearing it's even more so.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Aug 10, 2008 - 08:55am PT
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Approximate line/location of Deep Blue Sea (7b+, 300m, Rathmaier-Ruhstaller, 2001) that Dean soloed.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=94901
Yes, did he onsight or pre-practice? The reports have not yet clarified this important distinction.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2008 - 09:15am PT
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Whatever about the man, and the fact that it wasn't on the Nordwand proper, I am still very impressed. You'll NEVER see me doing something like that.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 10, 2008 - 09:47am PT
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I think it was really a cool thing to do, and as Largo said, if he fell, he could have fallen back first, facing into the wall, whatever...all bad.
I hope he had fun. For the life of me, I can't figure out why so many of you people bitch and moan about what someone else does. Really, people have been climbing and jumping stuff for almost 30 years. The only time I did it, I had to hike FOREVER to carry the rigs up. Then do the route. Then jump. Then go back up and carry the rack and stuff down. This way looks far funner.
Good for him. Hope he had a good time.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 10, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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Exposure, smouser.
Do you really think these guys think about exposure?
The ground follows them up, and they are never more than a foot from safety.
Thats the mindset you have.
So what difference does it make if you are hangin 1000 feet off the parking lot, or 100 feet over a rock pile?
Makes no difference, so you are wasting brain power if you think about it.
It is all right in front of you, no where else.
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Michael
Trad climber
Boulder
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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This Supertopo forum has degraded into shameless criticism of Dean for false worship of the commenter’s ego...
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ric
Trad climber
Annapolis, MD
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Aug 15, 2008 - 07:27am PT
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I thought free solo climbing was done without gear protection.
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Aug 15, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
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For all you Dean Potter haters – Say what you will about his motives from time to time, but this guy is visionary and is in a class of his own. BTW, a lot could go wrong if you didn’t have a clean “exit” if you fell while climbing with a parachute. Bad body position would cause the parachute to not deploy correctly. You could get line twist. You could open up with the square parachute surging into the wall, etc. Basically, if he fell while really going for it, the chances would be much higher for a malfunction of some sort. Conversely, if he just “chickened out”, and jumped off a stance, then his odds would be much better – more like those of a regular BASE jump. An interesting game that gets riskier as you push you own limits. Congratulations Dean. Be careful out there.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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Un-bo-weevel-ble!
Another amazing setting of stratospheric new standards by the Dean.
Nice going!
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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Doesn't everyone BASE-jump now?
X-games meets polesitting, news at five.
Good for you, Dean.
I can't wait to hear your opinion.
"The colors were so brilliant, it was like climbing into a dream. I didn't even notice the cameras rolling."
"I think I'll have another tofu burger washed down with soy milk."
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Aug 15, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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Amazing? F'in A! Will it "change climbing"? Maybe, but certainly not for me, or for any of you other Average Joes sitting at your keyboards.
What is really amazing is all the spewing of strong opinions by those of you who didn't even bother to see what Dean did. "The Eiger was getting soloed X number of years ago, and that Delicate Arch thing really pisses me off, so . . .(INSERT SLANDEROUS COMMENT ABOUT DEAN, HERE)".
Way to go Dean, for such an outrageous climb and for not getting yourself killed!
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Aug 15, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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Very impressive feat! Amazing.
"There is no spoon."
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 15, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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hey there all... say, i must appologize for being so slow to visit and learn something new...
i thought perhaps this was some hard controversial thing going on here, as to an unbelievable event---and---i have had some hard nights of catching up on things from my books, to re-set-up and odd working hours, that i put this off UNTIL LATER....
wow, judging by the title being A QUESTION, i did NOT know that this was for real....
i must appologize.... i am very sorry....i thought it was just a simple---though STILL interesting and creatively-done by you all---normal everyday post/thread, in the "what it" or "what do you think" brand...
i will now go back and read it TONIGHT, after i recover from work----wow, guys, i just learned of this from chris's ol' NEWSLETTER.... !!!....
*hmmmm, say, though, after seeing these ending posts just above... i can see that it is perhaps more complex than the title itself......
well, i will definately take time to enjoy and study it.... thanks for the share (i will go back, too, to see who started it AND learn who dean potter is) (and learn about the parachute ????? idea, that i read of)...
and will check the interesting links, too....
say----thanks for always keeping us up on learning what goes on in the climbing world... (once again, i appolgize for thinking this was wayyyyyyyyyyyyy hard to believe!)
god bless....
*thanks chris, too for the ol' newsletter... :)
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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Aug 16, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
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bluering,
I was surprised as I got to preview a Bachar video with one
of his proteges. Looks as though he is schooled well.
Prior to the protege's free solo without pro I watched his
protege take a free solo fall into what appears to be an air
bag below.
Do you remember the H ratings applied to YDS free climbs used
in the 80's?
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jbar
Mountain climber
Atl,GA
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Aug 18, 2008 - 09:46pm PT
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Good comment K-man! So many people don't even know of Cathlene Destiville's accomplishments. As far as DP goes? Well, love em or hate em I don't care. I don't even know him. My take is this. If he did it for a personal challenge. If he did it because he wanted the route for himself then Good job and nobody can say anything. If he did it for publicity. If he did it for this forum, magazines, film footage, etc. then poo poo on him. I justify people taking the risks they take by saying that it is a personal choice. If they do it for publicity they should be in the Xgames or something. The Eiger has been free soloed so many times it's rediculous. I'd never do it and I don't care how you want to qualify it. Are we gonna turn everything into a Everest?? He fs'd it with a cold, she was the first woman, he was the first italian, he drank coffee before he did it, he did it without using his pinkies, fist fs with green pants, etc. No belay is no belay. Having a parachute is kinda like having a bail option anyway.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Aug 19, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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Nice going DP.
Probably time to trade in your PR team though...
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