Arapiles The Empire Strikes Back Child Carrigan 81

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
A little something from the land of Dreamtime. The classic survey of the crag from Mountain 78 March/April 1981. Certainly two of the most colorful characters ever in Greg and Kim, pulling down hard at home.






Note the globe trotting Gramicci!








Double D

climber
Jul 27, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
Nice article. Nick, Java and Kim were a blast to hang with and funnier than anything BITD. Interesting that Tobin nailed the 2nd ascent of Denim. He did some amazing stuff.
Barto

climber
Minneapolis, MN
Jul 28, 2008 - 07:42am PT
I loved the writing in the old Arapilles guide: Mike Law advocating for taking the whippers, chronicling the use of seatbelt assemblies as bolt to prevent anyone resting at clips, making it clear that Australia was fascinating and weird.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 28, 2008 - 07:52am PT
Steve, I really love your historical threads. Every time you post one, I'm surprised by how clearly I remember most every one of them. When I had these issues in my possession, I read and re-read them so many times that the stories and pictures must have gotten permanently logged into my brain. Thanks for jogging my memory, and keeping the keeping the roots alive.
Rokrover

Trad climber
SB, CA
Jul 28, 2008 - 08:28am PT
I remember Arapiles from 1968 when it was a sleepy place being developed by Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter the Gledhill twins and others. John Ewbank, a visionary Sydney climber, nabbed the first ascent of a jam crack that had repulsed all Victorians who were not used to this style then. He named it The Rack and graded it 17 on his Ewbank (now Australian) system. That caused some consternation for the locals who were confident on grade 19 face climbs. Ancient history now.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Jul 28, 2008 - 09:48am PT
Hey those first two shots are of my good friend Mark Moorhead. He was quite a cool character too. Tragically killed along with 3 other Australian’s on Makalu. I wish more of you could have known him.

Mike
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2008 - 08:28am PT
Bummer Mike! We definitely lost a lot of good people to the Big Game. In memory and image, they will stay forever young. What encouraged you to visit Australia in the first place beyond the great people.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 29, 2008 - 11:10pm PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 29, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
Mike Law (The Claw) Sydney Sea Cliffs

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 07:34am PT
Postin' up de Law! Nice.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Jul 30, 2008 - 09:15am PT
Steve thanks for posting this up. I’ve actually never seen this article, my Mt mag collection stops at 70.


Hearing about Australia from people like Henry Barber, Kim Carrigan, Tobin Sorenson are who really inspired me. On a previous trip to Britain I met even more folks talking about it. There I met Jeff Lamb of the Lake District (he is in one of those photos above) he eventually immigrated with his elder father to Australia. I ran into him at Arapiles on both of my trips. I’ve written about this before, he died Soloing a few years later at Frog Buttress in Queensland. Super great guy and good climber too.

Here is a shot of Mark Moorhead when we repeated Tobin’s Turinga Wall. oddly it was the first pitch that no one could do. It involved slab like friction moves that the Australians weren’t use to. Just as Tobin told me it went at about 10c. It was a piece of cake for everyone once they saw the beta.


Glenn Tempest

Social climber
Melbourne, Australia
Jul 31, 2008 - 12:09am PT
Thanks heaps Steve. Brought back a bunch of memories. I shot quite a few of those images in the article. Feels like only yesterday - except in B/W. Hey Mike, your Ride Like the Wind (25, 5.12b) on Wind Wall still commands big respect. I think the 20m fall potential off the crux keeps the holds from chalking up....

You may be interested that Simon Mentz and I have just finished the new second edition of the Arapiles Selected Climbs guide. All singing, all dancing, all color 392 pages. The guide will be released in about two weeks. I have a few images of it on my site at Open Spaces (osp.com.au) if you want to check it out. If anyone's interested we are taking discounted pre-orders before it hits the streets.

And just in case you're wondering, Mike. Yep we've included a sequence of images I shot of you making an early repeat of No Exit (25, 5.12a). Headband and all.

As you know Arapiles still sees itself as a bastion of trad, though one of the things I've noticed is how many 'new generation' climbers would like to upgrade (some) of the old classics. They feel the routes are too solid at the grade. Funny how the original grades that were seen as benchmarks at the time (established mainly during the 60s, 70s and 80s) have suddenly become 'too hard'. Hanging around and placing gear on steep routes is meant to be challenging....isn't it?

Glenn
Glenn Tempest

Social climber
Melbourne, Australia
Jul 31, 2008 - 12:14am PT
Oh and by the way. Love the Hummer banner ad on Super Topo. Obviously global warming doesn't effect the United States like it does in our part of the world.....
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Jul 31, 2008 - 07:31am PT
Now way! Glen Tempest!

How are you doing man? The new guide sounds good. Believe it or not I’m hoping to get back down under sometime soon. Just rounding up a crew for the trip.

Do you ever see Eddie Ozzls? I would love to get some photos of RLTW my camera was stolen just before I left that trip. Thanks loads for sending me that one of you took of NExit years ago.

Oh yeah, they can’t seem to give away Hummer’s and large SUV’s up here anymore no matter how much they advertise.

Cheers,

Mike
Glenn Tempest

Social climber
Melbourne, Australia
Jul 31, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
Hey Mike,

Let me know when you are down this way. You've always got a place to crash here in Melbourne when you need it. Up at Araps the place has hardly changed. In fact in many ways it's better. The landscape is healthier than it was in the early eighties. More trees, less erosion etc. The Pines campground still has that special vibe (just like Camp 4 used to have back in the late 70s!). Our only concession is that there is now a small camping fee. Still, the rock is just as good, the climbs just as classic and the kangaroos still lie about in the grass and watch the climbers play on the rocks. If you want to stay in Natimuk there are plenty of places you could doss. Half the climbing population of Victoria seems to live there these days...

Take care. Glenn
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2008 - 10:30am PT
I'll take one of those guidebooks mate!

Along with any images of the Big Orange that you would care to post up. The full Gramicci sequence perhaps?!?

Or a tale or two of that other Yank ambassador plennipotentiary in flight and foam -----The Verminator!
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Aug 2, 2008 - 11:56am PT
Glen, Thanks

I’d like one of those books too so I’ll visit your site.

Dang Steve, see what you drummed up. Sherman does have some good stories from down there. Not sure I could get him to post up, yet…
Glenn Tempest

Social climber
Melbourne, Australia
Aug 3, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
Actually Sherman does feature in the new guide. We have a pic of him playing golf on the course behind the Mount (long white socks, bum-hugger shorts and yellow floral shirt...oh so eighties). We've also got a pic of Timmy O'Neill playing Aussie rules football (sorta like gridiron but much tougher and with no body armor...).
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Aug 4, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
Hey Glenn,
How bad are the temps and notorious flys really in Dec, Jan & Feb? We'll be there, staying in Melbourne this year. That is the timeframe we have but some have warned us about the heat.
Arne
Glenn Tempest

Social climber
Melbourne, Australia
Aug 6, 2008 - 04:14am PT
Geez..... Dec can be pretty good. Some days hot, some days warm a few (rare) days cool.....ish. Araps has enough shady spots to make Dec a reasonable place to be. Jan is getting pretty hot though and Feb is like an oven. In fact Feb is the one month everybody escapes to the alps and climbs at Mt Buffalo (or heads south to Tasmania). Feb is our hottest month so yeah, stay away from Araps in Feb. If you can get there in Dec you'll still have a great time. To quote Peter Croft 'Arapiles has the best rock in the Universe'. You won't be disappointed.....unless you do arrive in Feb!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
A little cropped local color from Simon Carter's luscious Rock Climbing in Australia, 1998. Venus Kondos on the ultra-classic Kachoong (21).

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
A classic shot from the Henry Barber tour. From On Edge-the Life and Climbs of Henry Baber by Chip Lee, 1982.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Good year for Australian climbing in the press! From Climbing May/June 1981.


Greg Child old schooling it on the FA of Straw Dogs (22) Arapiles.










Another globe trotting Stonemaster!


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
Handhold down under....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2008 - 09:20am PT
Hidden bump!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 31, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
Bump again, and my compliments to Mr. Grossman for keeping us
up on things.
Steve, you do no wrong!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 31, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
I was there in Oct. two years ago. The flies were HORRENDOUS although they do disappear after sunset.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 31, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
I was thinking, "Man, am I ever old, cuz I had that issue of Mountain Mag about the time I started climbing." And then all you old farts chime in. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!

Ah yes, Procul Harem. I can't for the life of me remember the name of their hit song - someone help me out here, eh?

Thanks for the scans, Steve. Make 'em a bit bigger next time please, on account of my eyes hurt.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
Wasn't that Turn a Wanker Shade of Pale?!?

Any favorites Jim?
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 1, 2008 - 03:46pm PT
Just got my new Araps guide. Its really quite the piece. Suppose to be a “selected” routes guide. But it still has over 1200 climbs listed in it.

And the photos of the rocks are like something you’d see on High Def TV. Never seen a better effort photo wise.

Captions and descriptions are pretty funny too.

Some of you folks who may be traveling there someday soon may wish to check it out here. New Arapiles Guide Book
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 1, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
Procol Harum - A Whiter Shade of Pale (1967). The band was named for the cat of a member's friend. A later hit was Conquistador (1972). The beginning of prog-rock.
http://www.procolharum.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Procol_Harum

I haven't been to Australia, but it's nice to read about it, and hear stories. Thanks!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 1, 2008 - 05:05pm PT
Any favorites? I remember some good climbs- can't remember their names, I'm at an age were I qualify for the 30 minute onsight. I liked the Grampions a lot.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
To all the climbs I sent before......

As sung by Henry Barber. From North American Climber Nov 1975.









Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
Sep 1, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
Sweet....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 09:09am PT
Tobin bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2008 - 09:41am PT
C'mon, give it a go ya lug! Aussie bump.
crøtch

climber
Sep 30, 2008 - 11:13am PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2008 - 07:51am PT
Holiday bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 09:13am PT
Did somebody say Australia?!?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
Anybody out there tangled with this offwidth roof badboy?!? Australia's first grade 24 and looks every bit of it! Nic Taylor climbing Country Road at Mt. Buffalo Gorge. A rappel is necessary to reach the start of this route. Alan Wilson photo.



barbarianism

Trad climber
Blurgemanvilletowne
Feb 21, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
great thread
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Feb 22, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
i went to the land of OZ in the fall of 1986 with Steve Schneider. we spent 3.5 months @ Araplies and got to see a few other places.
arapiles is an amazing area and very polished sand stone- similar to the new river gorge.
i would love to get back there some day...
ks
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Feb 22, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
Hey Steve,
It was great to get together with you and Mimi just before we left. We've now just returned, having visited 16 different climbing areas in Australia/Tasmania. Arapiles was a highlight. We stayed 3 weeks.

What happened to all the posts on this thread? Weren't there a few hundred posts or is that the Gunks I'm thinking of?

Arne
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
This one is a bit shorter than the Gunks thread for sure! I hope that you had a great trip with the crew! Post up some photos when you get the chance.

Cheers
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2009 - 08:02am PT
Content Bump!!!
CAMNOTCLIMB

Trad climber
novato ca
Aug 31, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
Classic
Keeper of Australia Mt

Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
Aug 31, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
Good to see the old articles on Araps - not that the routes have anything to do with my modest capability but the stuff surely sets dreams in motion as does thoughts of the two stints I have done down in the Wimmera. Hope to get back before too long to continue my tussle with old classics and to rescue a few skeletons from my developing Araps closet. Araps - a world classic lump out towards the black stump. Superb crag and just righto in the Aussie winter!

Lockwood's book is a great contextual piece and a worthy buy for anyone heading down under towards that thunder. I also have a complete set of Rock which has a lot of historical beta on the place as well - lots of wildly divergent and good Aussie humor in that portfolio too!

I have the first edition of the guide with annotations that track my insurgency so I will pick up the upgraded edition from the website.

Are you doing an upgrade on the Grampians guide too?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
Anyone ever made a go at subsisting on this stuff?!?



Certainly qualifies as food and drink, all in one! My favorite stout!
Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 28, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
bump
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
Jan 25, 2010 - 11:14am PT
So how long is long enough for a visit to Araps and maybe the Grampians? I've got a month, max. March.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 25, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
Coopers, yeah! Seriously, we're spoiled here in the US with micros. Coopers is a close as I could get, so it became my beer of choice. All beer in OZ is expensive, few selections and not that good.

Arapiles? We spent 3 weeks and blew off the Gramps because we didn't want to miss a single day at Araps. I would have liked another week or two. When you go to the Gramps you're back near civilization and tourists, though I barely saw them and am not qualified to judge but it is hard to beat Arapiles.

Arne
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 25, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
Wow, Anders - it's "Procol Harum". Thanks for the clarification.

And speaking of clarification, any chance Steve you could rescan the top pix as the text is almost impossible [for me] to read.

Cheers and Aussie beers!

One assumes nobody drinks Foster's in Oz, any more than anyone drinks Molson Golden up here in the Great White North, eh?
Greg Child

climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 06:36am PT
I just noticed this link to some ancient history in Australia. Very nostalgic. A few days ago a major figure in Australian climbing passed away. Chris Baxter was among the earliest Arapiles pioneers, did hundreds of new routes through Araps and the Grampians, wrote many guidebooks, and was publisher of Rock and Wild magazines. He passed away after a long fight with conditions most easily explained as cancer, but not exactly that. He is surivied by his wonderful wife Sue, and countless friends who knew him as one of the most enthusiastic climbers, most vocal and funny, and most supportive of the younger climbers who came after him.
This photo shows Chris (, on right in white shirt) and Rick White at Mt Piddington about 15 years ago. Rick White was also a majot developer in Australian climbing. He died a few years ago also. The E painteed at the base of the climb is for a route named Eternity.
Rick White and Chris Baxter, beneath Eternity, at Mt Piddington, Austr...
Rick White and Chris Baxter, beneath Eternity, at Mt Piddington, Australia
Credit: Greg Child
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 11, 2010 - 06:56am PT
Hey Greg,
Welcome to Supertopo! We've not met yet but I've just missed you a couple of times. Kirsten is my sister, of Jim & Kirsten. My wife & I & kids traveled to Australia to climb last year and stayed a short bit with Sally at Blackheath.

Would you mind starting a new thread for Chris Baxter? It's worthy. We had a great time reading about him in all the guides, as well as the exploits of you, Mike Law, Kim Carrigan and all the others.

I think we took Sally to Piddington and climbed Eternity.

Arne
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Mar 11, 2010 - 08:06am PT
Sorry to hear that about Chris. my condolences to his family and friends.

Hadn't heard about Rick either. I knew pretty well from the early Chouinard days.

Mike
tarek

climber
berkeley
Mar 11, 2010 - 09:08am PT
bump
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
May 6, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
Pushing the Antipodes back up front. I smell gumtree oil, mates.

Edit: and content from Greg Child, my vote for best climbing writer in recent times. For example:

"Gasherbrums III, II and I poke up like huge tusks, their snows pearly white, their rocks shining amber. The sky is indigo blue, fading to a deeply pink upper atmosphere. Low on the horizon, a full moon blasts a surreal glow across the thin air, from the monsoon thunderheads over Indian Kashmir to Nanga Parbat in the west. A landscape from another planet. No, our own wild and beautiful earth."

From "The Obscure Object of Desire", as read in the "Mixed Emotions" collection.
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
May 6, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
Credit: Paco

My dad climbing Tannin (19)

Beautiful rock, wildlife, weather, foliage and people...can't wait to be back.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
May 6, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
Went to Araps in '87. Still the best crag I've been to. The Pines was cool! Here's my wife coming up Christian Crack.
Laura jamming in Oz
Laura jamming in Oz
Credit: chill
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
May 6, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
Great thread Steve. Arapiles is definitley near the top of my wish list for out of US climbing.

Thanks for the post and all the great pictures everyone.
gf

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
Hi Greg
Hope all is well with you.
Hey care to recap the procul harem history and maybe post a shot of the immortal inscription at the base of the crag in fond memory of Chris. I imagine it would give him a chuckle!
Greg
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
Credit: prunes
prunes

climber
May 6, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
Credit: prunes
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
Glad to see that Greg has joined in!

I met Rick White the year that he did the first Aussie ascent of the Nose. I have a slide of them around Boot Flake. Can't recall his partners name.

Sorry these guys couldn't stick around longer...
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
Oct 19, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
Antipodal bumping. Want rock? Aus is your place. Arapiles, Tasmania, Blue Mountains, Grampians, All sorts of everything. Then pop across the Tasman to get schooled by the weather and bonked on the head by icy choss.

Edit: NZ has better beer. You bet.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 19, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
Here's a few from when I was there
Arapiles
Arapiles
Credit: can't say
Cosmic County Blue Mtns
Cosmic County Blue Mtns
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
part of Mt Buffalo
part of Mt Buffalo
Credit: can't say
Organ Pipes Tassie
Organ Pipes Tassie
Credit: can't say
Organ Pipes, above Hobart
Organ Pipes, above Hobart
Credit: can't say
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
Nice shots!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Beauty Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
Thanks to MMCC!

Don't miss this Tempest of superb portraiture!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1403361/Glenn-Tempest-portrait-gallery-of-Aussie-climbs-and-climbers
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
Feb 6, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Advance Australia Fair!

But cross the Tasman for the beer...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 11, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
Credit: Wade Icey
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
OY OY OY...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 27, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
Ausie bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Stumpy Bumpy!
stokedsean

Trad climber
Canada eh, now Qld, Aust
Mar 8, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
What a great thread.
Thought Id add some other personal fav climbing spots in OZ to the mix here...

such a good climb!
such a good climb!
Credit: stokedsean
buffalo
buffalo
Credit: stokedsean
mt french
mt french
Credit: stokedsean
really a great crag, mt french
really a great crag, mt french
Credit: stokedsean
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 9, 2012 - 06:04am PT
Edge of the Grampians
Edge of the Grampians
Credit: can't say
Aussie mailbox near the Grampians
Aussie mailbox near the Grampians
Credit: can't say
Tidy Natimuk
Tidy Natimuk
Credit: Karen Roseme
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 09:15am PT
This is a tidy bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Yearly bump...
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Mar 2, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
I visited Arapiles for the first time in March 1984. It's where I learned about "Fires" I was following a guy I was climbing with and he walked across this low angle slab. When I followed him I slipped right away as the rock is somewhat polished but he had NO problem on it with the Fires. I was sold.

There was quite a contingent of local "Punk rock climbers" at the time all climbing quite hard. I was 22 at the time and I remember this rumour going around camp of an "old guy" going through three partners in a day and climbing heaps. Well it was John Fantini at the tender age of around 40. Funny what old is when your in your early 20's. He was still climbing hard up at Skaha just a few years ago where he has put up many 5.11s and 5.12s. He red pointed a 5.12d on his 65th birthday a few years back. Seems to live off bananas alone.




Credit: harryhotdog




Credit: harryhotdog






Some guys from Sydney who took me under their wing, Australian hospitality!
Credit: harryhotdog





At Mt Buffalo, this guy who I climbed with alot went on to become a serial killer who eventually got caught and commited suicide in jail in 1990.Nice guy I thought but was a "kicker and swearer" on the rock when he failed sometimes. Glad I never called him on it.
Credit: harryhotdog






Ozymandias is on that feature
Credit: harryhotdog






The Cathedral, this is long before the forest fire from a few years back that came through. It burned everything in it's path. It's barren here now.
Credit: harryhotdog







Mt Piddington, Blue Mountains I think.I'm wearing Asolo canyons when I should of been wearing Fires!
March 1984, I'm wearing Asolo canyons when I should of been wearing Fi...
March 1984, I'm wearing Asolo canyons when I should of been wearing Fires!
Credit: harryhotdog





Credit: harryhotdog







I think this is at Booroomba rocks, ACT or Mt Buffalo
Credit: harryhotdog






This is some early rendition of what they thought climbing walls should be and I don't even remember the university that it was at.Good thing I'm wearing a harness.
Credit: harryhotdog

Ben Emery

Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
Mar 3, 2013 - 12:24am PT
The Cathedral, this is long before the forest fire from a few years back that came through. It burned everything in it's path. It's barren here now.

Not at all barren now; the snowgums have sent out new shoots from the ground with a vengeance and the undergrowth has come back - which can make for the odd bush-whack. Mind you, there is plenty of dead wood sitting around from trees killed by the last fire, so the next one could be a really big one.

Buffalo's probably my favorite climbing spot in Victoria; move-by-move the quality of the routes has nothing on Araps but it has a more adventurous/big-day-out feel and a couple of multi-pitch routes that would be popular even in Yosemite. And of course it's about the only place in Victoria where I can bust out the portaledge without it looking completely silly... :-/
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 3, 2013 - 05:19am PT
Karen Roseme on the Watchtower/Skink
Karen Roseme on the Watchtower/Skink
Credit: can't say
Sandanista
Sandanista
Credit: can't say
"E"ternity
"E"ternity
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Nice shots Pat!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 10:18am PT
Helping Al build the psyche!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Child bump...
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
I can remember hearing about Arapiles from Aussie climbers in Yosemite in the early 80's. They claimed it was the best crag (or collection of crags) in the world. Everyone who has been there seems to love it.
I will go there someday, maybe in a few years
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Dec 24, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
God, I miss Araps. Especially in December; fantastic place to spend Christmas.
Such good rock. And all the bird songs going off all day long.

Arne
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 24, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
This is a serious question - how many aussie climbers suffer insectivorous
or reptilian grief from sticking their hands into places they can't see?
The way I understand it everything there is poisonous.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Al- how was your trip?

It would be interesting to see what sort of techniques were developed locally to deal with the creepy crawlies. Greg could certainly illuminate.

Poke a test stumpy in there...
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Dec 28, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Reilly,
When we did the mandatory raps down to the sea ledge at Point Perpendicular we were swimming in funnels from the Sydney funnel web spider, probably the most deadly spider on the planet. In Tasmania at Ben Lomond we had a huge black Tiger snake cruise right through our campground and you don't mess with those guys. But you know when you're there climbing I can't explain it but it just didn't occupy my mind. I guess the climbings too good to worry about it.

Yes you are right, it seems all things there are venomous. I've been told that ALL snakes in Tasmania are poisonous. Makes it easy, you just stay away from all of em!

Arne
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