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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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From Climbing March -April 1976 this classic tale of a Sierra miniwall. Anyone wander up there or has this one gone the way of Trout Fishing In America Shorty?
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Double D
climber
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Jul 21, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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Man, I miss Alan...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 21, 2008 - 12:33am PT
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Steve Grossman, I really don't know what to say. Trite words would just lessen this post. It was a very special read, great clmbers that could write like their hearts spoke. Was right there with them in spirit .... Thank you
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 21, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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there is he, 32 years ago.
best Steve, ph.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2008 - 01:17am PT
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Wonderful, thanks Steve (again!) ...
Richard Brautigan, some references to in the Taco...
Boo, Forever
and a take off on a thread title... you can find it here
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 21, 2008 - 01:56am PT
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Bardini Lives!
One, of not enough Salmon river trips.
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dolomite_said
Boulder climber
the real
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Jul 21, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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From some pics I took on the way to Waterwheel Falls back a few years . Sorry I don't know the name of this formation , but it is farther up canyon from the falls and the dome / climb described in the article.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Anyone have a scenic shot of Brautigan Dome itself?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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That Tribal Rite thread had me wondering what other walls Bardini had done and this article came to mind. Did he do any other long backcountry wall FA's that people can recall? No sierra guide handy at the moment.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 23, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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90.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/shanachie777/Bard-Memorial383-1.jpg[/img]
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 24, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
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Bardini was like a one man comedy act. He could spit out the jokes so fast that you would laugh until you cried. Last time I saw him was at DR's wedding. We split a condo with a couple of friends and drank a bunch of wine....
I will never forget a good wine bouldering session up in the Palisades, and his endless patience with me when skiing. He would let the whole crowd go and then hang back with me, the Okie. He just couldn't help himself when it came to teaching others. He made it fun, too. He must have had twenty different accents down pat. He was a great guide. Quick to like, and never a dull moment.
Now, less wine bouldering be forgotten in the dustbin, it involved your cup (preferably a big 'un) in one hand, and climbing everything one handed without spilling a drop. Even trees were open game. You then hammered your cup down while everyone tried to follow your route. Needless to say, the route difficulty went downhill pretty fast.
I asked him once where they came up with the name Tribal Rite. He said, "It was our Tribal Rite to get our own El Cap route!"
And his floor was always open to just about anybody passing through.
edit: Yes, thanks Guido. You didn't get to see that introspective side too much except in his writing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Thanks for posting that Guido.
I am glad that he chose to put some thoughts down on paper to let everybody know where he was coming from......and where he was headed.
I always wondered about the Tribal Rite name. Thanks for that tidbit Mark.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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Steve,
I never met Walter, but Carter and Bard together were like George Carlin on steroids. I would give an arm for a tape record of that ascent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Nothing better than having some laughs amid the terror! Fortunately, selective memory tends to lose the nasty bits while the humor persists.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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Speaking of Bircheffs....
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 11, 2008 - 08:11am PT
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Steve
You just keep coming up with these gems!
Bravo!!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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Calling all Bircheffs!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
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Yet another Bardini bump!!!
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Mar 23, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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It took me a while to find out about them, but the Bards are some of my ultimate heroes. Anybody else have any writing of theirs?
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Joe Metz
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 23, 2009 - 01:49am PT
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The Great Bardini, spotted in the wild, on Palisade Glacier below Mt. Gayley, June 11, 1981. He was working for PSOM at the time. Note the 75cm bamboo-shafted piolet. He showed us the game of tossing the piolet down to the glacier from about a pitch up. Points were awarded for landing in a good position for retrieval, and for getting a clean spike-down "stick". I got negative points for watching my axe clatter half way down to the talus...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Bump
It's natural. It's climbing
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Conner
Social climber
on the road
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Mar 29, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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I miss Alan too! I am working in Bishop for a couple of months and drove by his house the other day. Still expect to see him come loping out from around the back of the house. This is the most time I've spent in Bishop since the last time I was hangin' at Alan's house, camping in the backyard for a few weeks soaking up the east side...life is too darn short sometimes!
Connie Self
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 29, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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I've written about this before, but it's worth repeating.
I'm way the hell up in Canada - above the Arctic Circle I think - at a place called Yellow Knife. I go to get on this Twin Otter and who gets off of it but Little Al - we literally pause on that stair thing. We're both bundled up in huge jackets, et al.
I'm like, Wusup, my brother? Where you been? Al says, North Pole. I say, Fino. I'm just on my way up there myself. How was it, Al? Cold, he says.
Never saw Al again.
He was great stuff.
JL
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 29, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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Alan and Dale were a phenomenon when they began to climb back I guess in 1970-72. They operated almost like twins, although Dale was a bit younger. Kind of a rolly-polly constant laughter thing. But they did not appear as twins; their body types were quite different. Alan was fairly tall and lanky while Dale was a shorter, powerpack type. Tons and tons of energy. And as things developed, they each established really awesome careers of their own.
I haven’t a clue what was going on back at home in Alameda, CA. in the beginning but the kids were coming to Indian Rock quite often, tying on to our insane proposition of climbing pretty quickly. In fact by 1973 these two were really good climbers. It went on from there as we all know, although in a bit more than 20 years, Alan was dead from a horrible fall on the Grand while guiding....
That was about 12 years ago, I think. Of all those who have died whom I knew, he was the closest. And a longtime friend of almost everyone I know in climbing. I am so glad that Lauria holds the flame. For most of us, as others tell us above, Alan is still alive.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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The Bump versus the Springhill Mine Disaster!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Had dinner with Phil, Cochrane and Tom Crowe on Wednesday!
Got some of Allan's photos of the Dome somewhere - will poke around for them.
I remember a story about Dale and Allan nailing their chimney - didn't fly with the senior Bard.
The bit about Tribal Rite is correct.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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You are one plucky traveler, Joe!
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mctwisted
climber
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Sep 11, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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we miss you bardini! billy and i were on the green last month, and you were there with us. thanks for in the old days treating us right even though we were just some dirtbag climber trash. will always love you man.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 11, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
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I never met Alan but I stayed at his house several times once the Bardini Foundation had been founded. I also carried his guides with me on several outings in the Whitney Zone and Palisades. Maybe Don can let us in on their genesis. If nothing else, maybe this can bump the 'water-skiing Tenaya' lore to its rightful place.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
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Fitting to re-read this nicely bumped thread this evening as I am packing up to head down for the gathering of friends and fellow guides in Bishop for the John Fischer memorial tomorrow.
Alan was a great friend and mentor. After knowing him from hanging around Tuolumne as a teen, I knew I was lucky to have him team teach with me in my first week as a guide at YMS in 1981. The positive feedback, encouragement and the example he set still informs every day I endeavor to help my clients enjoy the best possible day in the mountains.
Just this week, I spent 5 days training two navy guys, and following the advice he gave me 29 years ago, "don't hide behind your sunglasses if you really want to connect with your students" I always drop the shades when I am really teaching something.
I also never forget the lesson he never wanted to teach by example, always being mindful of the consequences of the long fall while moving quick and running it out as we all inevitably do while guiding.
RIP my friend, you touched so many with your knowledge and your heart, and I am a much better guide and human being for having known you.
Peter
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Sep 13, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Once when I was climbing with Alan in Yosemite ,we went with Craig Calonica to the Ahwahnee Hotel on Sunday morning for the all-you-can eat and drink brunch. We loaded up on all the Sunday papers and were having a great time until after several hours we were asked to leave !
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 14, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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Again, this is all I have as far as I know. Sometimes I wonder about the value of hoarding thee "frozen moments" then I see this incredible stuff surface and appreciate it even more as it is not an easy task to get to them, sort them and finally post. Hence some rather meager selections from me as I am looking a a mt of those moments - skeptical of material worship. But here ya go...Dave Birdcheff a true original.
TC
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2011 - 05:45pm PT
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Tom- Thanks for cross posting that shot!
I wonder if folks are climbing in this area very much these days?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 17, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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Dave and his brother Phil are both true originals. But the younger one is the better climber. And he rolls a better cigarette. I met them in '68 and they corrupted me and Mathis, that is we started climbing due to their enthusiasm.
Mathis and I visited Bardini in Bishop and had to party with the a-hole from next door, some old broke-dick named Herbert. Was a good opportunity for Bardini to bitch and moan over the end of his marriage, though. Misery loooves company. The he-man woman-haters anonymous.
One thing we all decided was that when a climber marries, he ought never to try to come between him and his climbing. You are asking for it if you do.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Bircheff & Bard Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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The plain bitter brown truth...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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BBST.Sometimes life's a matter of having enough friends to help finish the keg and the watermelon, Sugar.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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Bump with a fine flat hat...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 11, 2017 - 10:28pm PT
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Is this Brautigan Dome? I hiked out to Waterwheel last summer and was eyeballing all the nice granite. This was just upstream from Waterwheel.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:43pm PT
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dudes, you don't even know where this is bump
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| Messages 1 - 44 of total 44 in this topic |
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