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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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Hey All,
Its finally here ... the wife and I are off to Switzerland for a month of camping, climbing & sightseeing.
Looking to do some cragging in and around Switzerland including Chamonix & the Lake Como area.
I have Rock climbing Europe which has some good topos for some areas in central switzerland. Other than that I'm planning to buy some guidebooks when we get over there.
Any suggestions for moderate (5.9 and below) multipitch areas? Not really looking for Alpine climbs. Will have a car and trad gear.
Also any general suggestions for travel and lodging in Switzerland would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jul 16, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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We stayed in Interlaken (tourist town between two lakes) last year and checked out the Jungfrau area (where the Eiger is). So amazing. Lots of granite but we didn't have time or our gear to climb. We did a superfun ropes course in Interlaken that was very affordable. Trains/cable cars go all over the mountains but they are pretty expensive, but worth it. A canyoning trip would be really cool.
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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Thanks Fet - I definitely want to spend a couple nights at the base of the Eiger.
Also thats the 2nd reccommendation I've gotten for a canyon trip in Interlaken.
Jeff
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Jul 16, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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Leysin, Switzerland (above Lake Geneva) has some great climbs at the Leysin Tours and surrounding areas. There is a relatively cheap group rooms at the "International School of Mountaineering" (ISM) in Leysin. The ISM guide service (operated by Pat Littlejohn) could be helpful recommending rock routes. I loved this town...the people were friendly and it looked like a scene out of the "Sound of Music".
http://www.alpin-ism.com/
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marde
climber
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Jul 16, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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There are lots of multipitch climbs at about 5.9 or easier next everywhere.
mostly bolted like sportclimbs, sometimes you might need a set of stoppers.
They call it plaisier climbing,
guidebooks:
http://www.filidor.ch/german/frame.htm
I personally like the valle maggia most
(it's included in the plaisier sud guidebook)
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Jul 16, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
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we spent a week in ticino at the campground there. beautiful place. nice river. fun drives to take in the hills. we did a bunch really easy 3-5 pitch slabby stuff that my wife dug. there is harders stuff, but we didnt get on anything harder than 6aish.
heres my lovely wife with ticino behind
if you change your mind on the alpine stuff, eldo canyon near grimsel was AWESOME (climbs are long).
got really intimidated in the wendenstock
also climbed at bettlerkuche, easy access, hard sport climbs. kicked my butt.
got a good guide book of swiss moderates at the climbing store in Bern, as I recall it was just accross the street and kind of behind the train station. if you walk out the train station, go left, left again, down a few blocks then right..thats the best i can do it was years ago.
have fun!!
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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2008 - 05:38pm PT
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Thx all for the feedback ...
Salad: Great picture, looks gorgeous in Tocino. Also, I read about Eldorado - might have to check that out.
Everyone else, thanks for the beta - i'll make some notes and scour the links provided. Glad to hear finding campgrounds should not be a problem.
As my wife said, all we need to do now is learn French, German and Italian!
WooHoo!
Jeff
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 16, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
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Hah!
Chances are english will do.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 16, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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Oh yeah, ride the trains, but don't use the WC.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Jul 16, 2008 - 05:58pm PT
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in Chamonix the best resource for climbing conditions and routes is l office de haute montagne http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/fiche.php?id=00&ling=En the gendarme in the office have a multi lingual database of climbs and can offer recommendations with local condition knowledge.
there are far too many good routes at this level.
When you say "alpine" you have to be careful. we consider alpine routes anything with a volume of snow or ice. everything else is just a long mountain route. make sure your terminology is correct for the area and you intentions otherwise the locals could send you on a mini "adventure" when you want a clip up and you get a mountain route.
For a good day out M on the Aiguille d e'm is a good day (its not really an alpine route but it has a longish approach which could have some snow and a longer decent for which you will need boots, just don't miss the last car down).
there is very good longer sport routes on the le Brevent if this isnt to your taste.
where in Switzerland are you going?
Rob
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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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Rob,
Thx for the clarification - I don't want to get on any 12+ hr mountain routes. Definitely not bringing snow and ice gear.
We're probably going to keep the commitment level low - it is vacation after all!
Right now we don't have much of an agenda for switzerland other than visiting the Eiger, Interlaken and climbing in the Grimsel Valley. (both of which could eat up a week or more) Interested in seeing the matterhorn, but not if it means sitting on a tour bus for a day.
We fly in and out of Zurich but plan to end our trip in the Lake Como Region before heading back to Zurich. Renting a car the whole time so we can haul our camping and climbing gear.
Jeff
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Jul 16, 2008 - 11:10pm PT
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You gotta climb the big slabs at Grimsel Valley! There's super single pitch climbs near the first dam too...with parking :)
A buddy of mine runs the Backpackers Hostel in Gryon, called the Chalet Martin 41-244-983-321, give Matt a buzz and tell him Michael 'il Chinese' sent you. Matt's got some new development areas going too. Cheers, Michael
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dgbryan
Mountain climber
Hong Kong
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Jul 16, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Schweiz Plaisir - came in east & west versions, probably N,S,E & W, or more, by now.
If I remember correctly, on the way up the valley to Eldorado there are some big slabby sport-climbs, easy grades, spectacular location.
In the same vein if you're near Chamonix and the weather's good try the Dalle d'Amone - it's in Gaston Rebuffat's book but is now (for better or worse) more of a sport-climb as well.
Miroir d'Argentine near Verbier looks good, though look was all we did due to rain.
Have fun.
Damain
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dgbryan
Mountain climber
Hong Kong
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Jul 16, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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Yep, bored-in-the-office.com ...
The slabs near Eldo are at Meiringen, Innertkirchen's the nearest town I think.
Damain
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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks Damain/Micahael ... Grimsel valley looks great - I actually have some topos from Rock Climbing Europe fro that area. We may check out that hostel when we get tired of nights in the tent.
Jeff
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Derek
climber
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Jul 17, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
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Another vote for the Grimsel Pass area. Lots of fine multipitch granite. Most, but not all, is pretty slabby, but really fun.
Motorhead on Eldorado is great, abeit a bit spicy in places. Fair Hands Line (down valley and across the road from the dam, I can't recall the exact formation) is a stellar 8-10 pitch .10a, with a nice mix of slab, face, and crack and corner work. It's also entirely bolted....ahh the Euros. Quartzris was another nice one. Something like 4 pitches, 5.9ish. I also remember a fantastic left facing corner a couple-few pitches long, which was actually pictured in Climbing or Rock and Ice back in the early to mid 90s. It was that picture that led me to Grimsel. In fact, one of the mags did a short feature on climbing there. Maybe I can dig it up at home.
I remember lots of other great routes, too, but not the names. It's been a while.
I have the Schweiz Plaisir edition covering the Grimsel area. If you find it hard to come by, I'm sure we could work something out. PM me if you'd like.
Nice campground and grocery in Meiringen at the bottom of the Pass as well, if I recall correctly.
I loved that place. We bailed out of Cham due to bad weather and spent a couple of weeks in the area. Good times.
-Derek
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Jul 17, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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here's a taste of grimsel, approaching motorhead.
edit: forgot the pic
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jul 17, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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In the Jungfrau region:
I fell in love with Switzerland, if I had to leave the US, it would be the place.
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Pretty Much
climber
San Jose
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
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Dudes, those are some amazing pictures ... Radical, i hope you have that one on your wall for inspiration.
I'm leaving in T-minus 4 days so I won't be getting guidebooks until I get there.
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Omot
Trad climber
The here and now
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Jul 17, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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Gotta speak up for Raetikon. It's in the NE of Switzerland. I went there several times when I lived in Munich. Multipitch limestone, bolt protected (some way runout though), beautiful area with an easy approach from the hutte at the base. Unfortunately, I don't have any up-to-date beta, as that was 12 years ago. There was a guidebook. I remember my Swiss friend had one. If you read German, check out www.raetikon.ch
Switzerland is awesome. Enjoy!
Tomo
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Fishy
climber
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Jul 18, 2008 - 07:40am PT
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Hi There,
I am living in Zurich, have a big pile of guide books, can point you in lots of directions, and give you all the insider tips.
Also have a spare room - feel free to come and crash with us if you like - we are always happy to receive visitors.
Can also help you find all the books you need, or make copies of the relevant pages of mine. There are lots of options in all the different regions of Swtizerland, each with its own character.
Just send a mail to me (see profile) if you are interested. My wife and I are also into easy multipitch, and so can suggest quite a few areas from experience.
Cheers
Pete.
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Jul 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Hi Jeff, as a bonus for staying at the hostel in Gryon, there's bolted routes within minutes down the hill. If you like skiing, the Glacier 3000 might still be run-able above Villar (an easy 8 minute trolley ride from the hostel) Cheers, enjoy!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 18, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Cool place.
Did my first roped climb there (wednesday was the 40th anniversary of that), my first mountain bivouac, and a few other firsts as well. (Lost my cherry there. lol)
One first I haven't repeated; had a date go to the hospital to get stitched up!!! (we went to a hockey game and when she went to use the facilities she wasn't watching and got hit by the puck!)
Hope to make my third trip there sometime.
I like my swiss assault rifle. The swiss have the best armed civilian population in the world.
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BrianRI
Trad climber
Wakefield, RI
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Jul 23, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
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Check out the Engelhorner area. It is just east of Grindelwald and Interlaken. There is a great hut right at the base of the climbs.
Brian
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Ron Raimonde
Big Wall climber
Sedona,Az
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Jul 23, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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PM. Grimsel has tons of Granite multipitch stuff, There is the slab area, then there is a ton of other stuff up and down canyon. Good for a few days anyway. There is lots of multi pitch limestone routes right in Interlaken. "Harderklum" There is not much up near the Eiger in the way of "casual" routes. There is a TON of granite within every direction of Interlaken though. If you go canyoning Do "Chli Schlieren". I worked for Seven years for a guide service in Interlaken and have Many hundreds of trips down most of the canyons in the area. that one is the best one that you can hire a guide for. Then there is Chamonix......... Im not even going to start. I spent a month every year living in caves and climbing endless granite. For Me there is no reason to climb anywhere else. Oh and RADICAL in your picture of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. The Wall on the right side is where Xavier Bongard made his last BASE Jump from. RIP Xavier. Super cool guy Have fun, whatever you do. RR
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